or anyone please, I have a couple of house cleaning questions. Everything is cut and assembled with the exception of the front with ports. I went with this design mainly because this will be near field facing my seats (with in a foot) and it saves over $50 with all tuning options available. I choose the single baffle so I just need to cut two pieces @ 15 1/4" it seems.
Is silicon caulking ok to seal the joints inside?
For any part of the boxes not completely flush, is it recommended to sand or just use acrylic spackling before finishing with Duratex?
Where did everyone add their N4L SpeakerOn Connector or cabling input? I have an ID sub I had to open up due to amp cables bouncing around slapping stuff so just asking in advance.
After cutting and putting these things together, I know its just a box but I have major respect for people with wood cutting skills because it took me and a friend a days work to get this done to this point.
Currently running from receiver to inuke 3000dsp an rca to xlr going to input A.
Output A is cable wired 1+2+ to the subwoofer box and is working (sounds awesome omg)
Output B is also wired 1+2+ to the 2nd box, and is not playing.
Current setting is: downloaded VBSS 20hz setting and activated on inuke. Did change mode on inuke from BiAmp1 to Bridged mode (under assumption of more power). Output only running out of A, not B.
If the limiter is unchanged you won't really get any more power from the amp in bridged mode then when set normally.
Output B is only connected to 1+ and 1- for channel B, if using bridged mode both subs need to be connected to the 1+ 2+ from the output A speakon.
I am still a little bit confused.
To clarify, I should switch back to the 'stock' Biamp1 setting of the VBSS20hz mode, and then rewire the speakons going from sub to amp (from my incorrect +1+2 to +1-1 for channel A and +2-2 for channel B)?
Ahh nah this is unfinished haha! Just a runner folded up, and vase with a flower on top.
I was thinking of finishes, maybe paint black the front, and use walnut vinyl on the sides... Home depot cuts were so drastically off that I had to use the router freehand to try to straighten things up sloppily, and hastily sand like insane to get one of the sides to line up...sigh...massive unnecessary headaches there. On the lookout now for tools to cut wood myself for future builds. I want to build speakers now to replace the existing system
Either a straight edge and circular saw with clamps a cheap saw bench from your local home depot or a second hand Triton Workcentre is what I normally use. Most people discard them cheaply when they start to rust here in Australia....
The cheap saw bench you can fab up a larger surround for it to cut large sheets and they do angles reasonably well also, well a lot better than the local shop does and my local Bunnings is no different!
Yeah, loving mine as well. Running them close to full tilt for 4 to 6 hours on a boat and they don't even break a sweat. I had to add a fan to the amp though as it's only passively cooled and not really intended for that type duration.
Just to add a little tidbit of info. I listened to Axwell’s “Barricade” as suggested by
in the Titan-630 thread.
Now remember, my VBSS is a slightly modified version to fit in my truck, but......
HOLY HELL 😳😳😳😳😳
Certain parts of that song makes all he’ll break loose in the truck. Just AWESOME !! I now have more vibrating panels to track down tho🤨
If you haven’t listened to this track, do yourselves a favor and give it a shot. Thanks Samps for the suggestion. If you have any more like this for us to torture our systems with, please share 👍
Did you guys add additional speaker gasket on the PA460-8?
I did not. Used some around the port flare though.
Originally Posted by TheBrandon
For those that used Duratex, how long did you wait to throw in the driver?
I let the Duratex sit overnight/an entire day, but that's because I worked on my build during the evening and had to work the following day. That stuff dries really quick, but I suspect you need to let it cure awhile before beating on it. What do the instructions say? I don't have them anymore.
I just turn mine on when I use it and turn it off after. My plan is to split the trigger that comes from my AVR (and currently goes to the amp for my mains) and add a trigger input to the nuke. From there I'll have it electrically "push" the front button (ie. close the contacts with a FET or relay).
Forgot to mention that there's a couple of threads here about using the AVR trigger to switch the power coming into the nuke. In that case, you'd just leave the power button on all the time and let the trigger cycle power for you.
Did a quick 3 position XT32 calibration since I have family in town after getting mine built and set up. Haven’t gotten to REW yet but good freaking gosh. I expected to want another pair but I don’t see any way I could handle more. -6.5db had my ears feeling like cotton was getting stuffed in after hitting some bass tracks for the ultimate collection. These are amazing. Can’t wait to dial them in. Thanks everyone.
(posted this in MartySub thread, meant to post here!)
I plan on building 2 of these to start, using 3/4" plywood. Two questions:
1) which glue would you recommend specifically for plywood? I don't plan on nailing or screwing so I want the strongest glue possible for plywood to plywood bonds. Gorilla glue?
2) The local Home Depot only offers "Birch", not "Baltic Birch". A General Woodcraft down the road offers "Baltic Birch" but its a 5' x 5' sheet. Will the Home Depot 4' x 8' "Birch" suffice? Or should I pick up 3 sheets of the Baltic?