The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 33 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #961 of 1499 Old 06-29-2018, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCRSS View Post
Yes +1 to positive, -1 to negative. Yes it is that simple.
Wow did I over complicate 😂. Am I missing anything? I have speaker wire which is 24awg and rca cables.
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post #962 of 1499 Old 06-29-2018, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrandon View Post
Wow did I over complicate 😂. Am I missing anything? I have speaker wire which is 24awg and rca cables.
Ummm, no. You want 14Ga minimum. 16 might be OK, but no reason to chance that.

Remember, you're sending an amplified signal on that cable.

ETA: Otherwise, the list looks good for 2 boxes.

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post #963 of 1499 Old 06-29-2018, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Ummm, no. You want 14Ga minimum. 16 might be OK, but no reason to chance that.

Remember, you're sending an amplified signal on that cable.
Thank you, I meant it’s 12awg and some how I doubled it because I have to make 2 runs. My lawd its been a long freaking day. Side note, Duratex is freaking expensive.
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post #964 of 1499 Old 06-29-2018, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrandon View Post
Thank you, I meant it’s 12awg and some how I doubled it because I have to make 2 runs. My lawd its been a long freaking day.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrandon
Side note, Duratex is freaking expensive.
Indeed, it is not inexpensive. But it's amazing stuff, covers like a dream (I've only ever rolled it on) and is really durable.

Now that I'm thinking about it, what will the boxes sit on? If hardwood/ceramic you'll want some feet too.
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post #965 of 1499 Old 06-29-2018, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post




Indeed, it is not inexpensive. But it's amazing stuff, covers like a dream (I've only ever rolled it on) and is really durable.

Now that I'm thinking about it, what will the boxes sit on? If hardwood/ceramic you'll want some feet too.
Thick carpet with memory foam pad under it. Below that concrete. I think I’m going to order the n4l female cables. This is adding up. I’m just under $700 and haven’t grabbed screws, primer, or mdf.
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post #966 of 1499 Old 07-01-2018, 04:03 PM
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@mtg90 or anyone please, I have a couple of house cleaning questions. Everything is cut and assembled with the exception of the front with ports. I went with this design mainly because this will be near field facing my seats (with in a foot) and it saves over $50 with all tuning options available. I choose the single baffle so I just need to cut two pieces @ 15 1/4" it seems.

Is silicon caulking ok to seal the joints inside?

For any part of the boxes not completely flush, is it recommended to sand or just use acrylic spackling before finishing with Duratex?

Was there a definitive amount of foam bed topper to use inside (grabbing this https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays...-70/47150473)? I don't want to over or under do it.

Where did everyone add their N4L SpeakerOn Connector or cabling input? I have an ID sub I had to open up due to amp cables bouncing around slapping stuff so just asking in advance.

After cutting and putting these things together, I know its just a box but I have major respect for people with wood cutting skills because it took me and a friend a days work to get this done to this point.
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post #967 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 11:45 AM
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Got one VBSS finished, with a second almost done!

Confusion about wiring though:

Currently running from receiver to inuke 3000dsp an rca to xlr going to input A.
Output A is cable wired 1+2+ to the subwoofer box and is working (sounds awesome omg)
Output B is also wired 1+2+ to the 2nd box, and is not playing.
Current setting is: downloaded VBSS 20hz setting and activated on inuke. Did change mode on inuke from BiAmp1 to Bridged mode (under assumption of more power). Output only running out of A, not B.

Any ideas or suggestions as I am confused here?
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post #968 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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If the limiter is unchanged you won't really get any more power from the amp in bridged mode then when set normally.

Output B is only connected to 1+ and 1- for channel B, if using bridged mode both subs need to be connected to the 1+ 2+ from the output A speakon.
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post #969 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post
If the limiter is unchanged you won't really get any more power from the amp in bridged mode then when set normally.

Output B is only connected to 1+ and 1- for channel B, if using bridged mode both subs need to be connected to the 1+ 2+ from the output A speakon.
I am still a little bit confused.
To clarify, I should switch back to the 'stock' Biamp1 setting of the VBSS20hz mode, and then rewire the speakons going from sub to amp (from my incorrect +1+2 to +1-1 for channel A and +2-2 for channel B)?

Thanks
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post #970 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 12:55 PM
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Everything should be 1+ and 1- if you use both channels. No need to use 2s.

(Vbss 1 goes 1+ 1- to output A... vbss 2 goes 1+ 1- to output B). Biamp 1 is fine or dual mono if you want to individually eq the subs.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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Equipment: Yamaha 3050, Oppo 103d, DIYSG HT12s (L,C,R), PSA mt 110s (SR,SL), 2 VBSS, Submaximus, 4 driver BOSS build, umik-1, Epson 3700
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post #971 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryceDH View Post
Everything should be 1+ and 1- if you use both channels. No need to use 2s.

(Vbss 1 goes 1+ 1- to output A... vbss 2 goes 1+ 1- to output B). Biamp 1 is fine or dual mono if you want to individually eq the subs.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Thank you! I am going to rewire them right now. Will uploads pics once they are running properly. Cheers
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post #972 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 01:26 PM
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Just rewired and they are both working! Thanks to everybody in the thread for the help, going to place them in the room and take some pics
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post #973 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 01:39 PM
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Pics of the dual VBSS powered by inuke 3000dsp (placement is temporary).
Ahh sorry the pictures are rotating themselves!
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post #974 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 01:42 PM
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Nice build. Congrats


Is this a new laminate you are trying out?


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post #975 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 03:21 PM
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Nice build. Congrats


Is this a new laminate you are trying out?
Ahh nah this is unfinished haha! Just a runner folded up, and vase with a flower on top.

I was thinking of finishes, maybe paint black the front, and use walnut vinyl on the sides... Home depot cuts were so drastically off that I had to use the router freehand to try to straighten things up sloppily, and hastily sand like insane to get one of the sides to line up...sigh...massive unnecessary headaches there. On the lookout now for tools to cut wood myself for future builds. I want to build speakers now to replace the existing system
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post #976 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 03:24 PM
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I was just joking, but think a black front with walnut is a great idea.


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post #977 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 04:49 PM
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@WickedDogs

Either a straight edge and circular saw with clamps a cheap saw bench from your local home depot or a second hand Triton Workcentre is what I normally use. Most people discard them cheaply when they start to rust here in Australia....
The cheap saw bench you can fab up a larger surround for it to cut large sheets and they do angles reasonably well also, well a lot better than the local shop does and my local Bunnings is no different!
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post #978 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 05:51 PM
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I love the V.B.S.S. subs. That is all I have to contribute.
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post #979 of 1499 Old 07-03-2018, 08:06 PM
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Yeah, loving mine as well. Running them close to full tilt for 4 to 6 hours on a boat and they don't even break a sweat. I had to add a fan to the amp though as it's only passively cooled and not really intended for that type duration.
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post #980 of 1499 Old 07-05-2018, 05:16 PM
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Just to add a little tidbit of info. I listened to Axwell’s “Barricade” as suggested by @Samps in the Titan-630 thread.
Now remember, my VBSS is a slightly modified version to fit in my truck, but......
HOLY HELL 😳😳😳😳😳
Certain parts of that song makes all he’ll break loose in the truck. Just AWESOME !! I now have more vibrating panels to track down tho🤨
If you haven’t listened to this track, do yourselves a favor and give it a shot. Thanks Samps for the suggestion. If you have any more like this for us to torture our systems with, please share 👍
TK
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post #981 of 1499 Old 07-06-2018, 02:19 PM
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Did you guys add additional speaker gasket on the PA460-8? For those that used Duratex, how long did you wait to throw in the driver?
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post #982 of 1499 Old 07-06-2018, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
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Did you guys add additional speaker gasket on the PA460-8?
I did not. Used some around the port flare though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrandon
For those that used Duratex, how long did you wait to throw in the driver?
I let the Duratex sit overnight/an entire day, but that's because I worked on my build during the evening and had to work the following day. That stuff dries really quick, but I suspect you need to let it cure awhile before beating on it. What do the instructions say? I don't have them anymore.

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post #983 of 1499 Old 07-07-2018, 05:01 PM
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What is the best practice with inuke in terms of powering? Does everyone just leave it on all the time?
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post #984 of 1499 Old 07-07-2018, 05:54 PM
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I just turn mine on when I use it and turn it off after. My plan is to split the trigger that comes from my AVR (and currently goes to the amp for my mains) and add a trigger input to the nuke. From there I'll have it electrically "push" the front button (ie. close the contacts with a FET or relay).


Forgot to mention that there's a couple of threads here about using the AVR trigger to switch the power coming into the nuke. In that case, you'd just leave the power button on all the time and let the trigger cycle power for you.
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post #985 of 1499 Old 07-08-2018, 07:57 AM
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Did a quick 3 position XT32 calibration since I have family in town after getting mine built and set up. Haven’t gotten to REW yet but good freaking gosh. I expected to want another pair but I don’t see any way I could handle more. -6.5db had my ears feeling like cotton was getting stuffed in after hitting some bass tracks for the ultimate collection. These are amazing. Can’t wait to dial them in. Thanks everyone.
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post #986 of 1499 Old 07-08-2018, 09:00 AM
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What is the best practice with inuke in terms of powering? Does everyone just leave it on all the time?
I wouldn't leave it on all the time.

I have a 6000 DSP that turns on when I power up the AVR.It's plugged in to a master/slave power strip.I also use a relay connected to the iNuke so I don't get the dreaded iNuke thump.
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post #987 of 1499 Old 07-08-2018, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by markg35 View Post
I wouldn't leave it on all the time.

I have a 6000 DSP that turns on when I power up the AVR.It's plugged in to a master/slave power strip.I also use a relay connected to the iNuke so I don't get the dreaded iNuke thump.
This is exactly what I am going to do. I have a Tripp Lite Eco with Master slave. What did you go with? Thanks!!
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post #988 of 1499 Old 07-08-2018, 09:07 AM
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This is exactly what I am going to do. I have a Tripp Lite Eco with Master slave. What did you go with? Thanks!!
I'm using a Smart Strip LCG-3MVR.The relay I'm using was made by a guy in So Cal that I found through this forum.
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post #989 of 1499 Old 07-12-2018, 04:52 PM
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The sheer simplicity and beauty of the engineering - and accessibility to @mtg90

that's why this thread keeps making many happy sub builders

and why many with placement and other issues have had success with a wide range of "variants"

from the original external dimensions : 20 (no double baffle) x 23.5 x 31.5 > 14,805 in^3.

potentially for my space, to fit 4 @15 hz tune . . . the 16" depth is the determinant factor

16 x 26.1 x 35.5 = 14,824 or a big whopping 19 cu. in. or a .0012% size differential.

i would put the full length ports out the face of the 16" side, because lacement.

This should work . .

and if not, why not and what would you change . . .

TIA

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
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post #990 of 1499 Old 07-13-2018, 04:36 AM
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(posted this in MartySub thread, meant to post here!)


I plan on building 2 of these to start, using 3/4" plywood. Two questions:

1) which glue would you recommend specifically for plywood? I don't plan on nailing or screwing so I want the strongest glue possible for plywood to plywood bonds. Gorilla glue?

2) The local Home Depot only offers "Birch", not "Baltic Birch". A General Woodcraft down the road offers "Baltic Birch" but its a 5' x 5' sheet. Will the Home Depot 4' x 8' "Birch" suffice? Or should I pick up 3 sheets of the Baltic?

Thanks!
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