The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 37 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1081 of 1468 Old 08-30-2018, 11:20 AM
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Thanks!

Can I run one XLR to the iNuke and bridge both inputs or should I use an XLR Y-cable to both inputs of the iNuke?

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post #1082 of 1468 Old 08-30-2018, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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If you set it to bi-amp 1 mode it will split the single from input A to both channels so you only need the one xlr connected. This should be the default configuration if you are using the VBSS preset file.
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post #1083 of 1468 Old 08-31-2018, 12:15 PM
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Anyone has the PE part # for the plastic ports from the original design? I couldn't seem to find them and also no specs... Thanks!

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post #1084 of 1468 Old 08-31-2018, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Anyone has the PE part # for the plastic ports from the original design? I couldn't seem to find them and also no specs... Thanks!

https://www.parts-express.com/precis...e-kit--268-352
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post #1085 of 1468 Old 09-04-2018, 03:51 PM
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Guy's I feel stupid. Can someone please check me on my understanding?

I'm wanting to make VBSS end tables using modified dimensions from the original design. As long as I keep the internal net volume of the enclosure the same, dimension/shape shouldn't matter right? I am utilizing the two 4" ports still. Of course I would accomodate the port lengths to ensure there is enough behind them.

Per original post the internal net volume is approx 6.25 cu ft; but I can't calculate that for some reason.

Calculating the internal volume based on 3/4" mdf exterior dimensions 31.5x23.5x20.5 (30x22x18.5 internal) = 7.065 cu ft gross
Subtracting the displacement of sub, ports, bracing...
Displacement of the sub is approx. .22 cu ft?
4" port displacement (4"Dia. x17"L) = .12 cu ft ea. x 2 ports = .24 cu ft?
Even factoring in the internal bracing is about .05 cu ft or so of volume

That puts Gross - displacements = Net closer to 6.5 cu ft?

I must be missing something here!
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post #1086 of 1468 Old 09-04-2018, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamwu View Post
Guy's I feel stupid. Can someone please check me on my understanding?

I'm wanting to make VBSS end tables using modified dimensions from the original design. As long as I keep the internal net volume of the enclosure the same, dimension/shape shouldn't matter right? I am utilizing the two 4" ports still. Of course I would accomodate the port lengths to ensure there is enough behind them.

Per original post the internal net volume is approx 6.25 cu ft; but I can't calculate that for some reason.

Calculating the internal volume based on 3/4" mdf exterior dimensions 31.5x23.5x20.5 (30x22x18.5 internal) = 7.065 cu ft gross
Subtracting the displacement of sub, ports, bracing...
Displacement of the sub is approx. .22 cu ft?
4" port displacement (4"Dia. x17"L) = .12 cu ft ea. x 2 ports = .24 cu ft?
Even factoring in the internal bracing is about .05 cu ft or so of volume

That puts Gross - displacements = Net closer to 6.5 cu ft?

I must be missing something here!
I didn't check all your figures but I would think your bracing is going to take more than .05cf. More like .25cf+, I would think.

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post #1087 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 06:24 AM
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So the bracing when i calculate it comes closer to .1 than .05 cu ft.
This is assuming '5' braces are used per OP ; (22x2 , 22x2, 30x2, 18.5x2, 10.25x2 [3/4" MDF]) Mind you the 30x2 piece gets cut down even more so some volume gets shared with adjacent bracing.

Really the thing I want to know though is-- what gross volume should i be shooting for when I mess around with dimensions?
Net volume isn't as important because I know i will be using the same 2x 4" precision ports and woofer as the original design.

Is it supposed to be that approximate gross 7 cubic ft?
I know that the cubic volume of the enclosure doesn't have to hit the pin right on the head, but it would be great to know what to shoot for so when tolerances (or additional bracing) comes into play, I will have at least have gotten myself close within the ballpark. Am i wrong in thinking the volume can just change without major undue affects to the performance?
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post #1088 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamwu View Post
So the bracing when i calculate it comes closer to .1 than .05 cu ft.
This is assuming '5' braces are used per OP ; (22x2 , 22x2, 30x2, 18.5x2, 10.25x2 [3/4" MDF]) Mind you the 30x2 piece gets cut down even more so some volume gets shared with adjacent bracing.

Really the thing I want to know though is-- what gross volume should i be shooting for when I mess around with dimensions?
Net volume isn't as important because I know i will be using the same 2x 4" precision ports and woofer as the original design.

Is it supposed to be that approximate gross 7 cubic ft?
I know that the cubic volume of the enclosure doesn't have to hit the pin right on the head, but it would be great to know what to shoot for so when tolerances (or additional bracing) comes into play, I will have at least have gotten myself close within the ballpark. Am i wrong in thinking the volume can just change without major undue affects to the performance?
Being off .25cf doesn't make that much of a difference. Model it in WINISD and you can see it doesn't change things that much http://www.linearteam.org/ It is fairly simple to learn how to use WINISD so you can see what changes and how little or how much it affects things.

I saw a post by Josh Ricci who does all of Data-bass subwoofer testing that even the driver's parts at the manufacturing level have a variance of 20-30% or something like that. So you being off .2cf is a small percentage of the enclosure volume on a larger enclosure. For a horn loaded enclosure you have less tolerance for a variance but for a ported and sealed enclosures .25cf is nothing when working with larger enclosures.

As for your question about a gross 7cf. That depends on what tune is used and type of port as a slot port could take up 1cf or more in larger low tuned enclosures. I take it you are asking for this specific build and I would say yes shoot for 7cf gross will get you close to your 6.25cf net.
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post #1089 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
Being off .25cf doesn't make that much of a difference. Model it in WINISD and you can see it doesn't change things that much http://www.linearteam.org/ It is fairly simple to learn how to use WINISD so you can see what changes and how little or how much it affects things.

I saw a post by Josh Ricci who does all of Data-bass subwoofer testing that even the driver's parts at the manufacturing level have a variance of 20-30% or something like that. So you being off .2cf is a small percentage of the enclosure volume on a larger enclosure. For a horn loaded enclosure you have less tolerance for a variance but for a ported and sealed enclosures .25cf is nothing when working with larger enclosures.

As for your question about a gross 7cf. That depends on what tune is used and type of port as a slot port could take up 1cf or more in larger low tuned enclosures. I take it you are asking for this specific build and I would say yes shoot for 7cf gross will get you close to your 6.25cf net.
Thanks a ton for that insight;
Will shoot fo that approx. 7 cf gross and mess around with winISD
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post #1090 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah +-0.5cuft won't matter much so you don't have to be absolutely perfect with the internal volume if changing things up.
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post #1091 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 01:18 PM
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With my claculations I came at gross inner volume

for the original design: 7.257 cu ft
and for the slot port version: 7.066 cu ft

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post #1092 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 02:51 PM
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Guys, need some help with the placement of the port -- Boxes are only about 10" in depth so I am unable to place the 17" long port. Question is if I can substitute one 17" with two 8.5" ports? I want to do 15Hz tuning only.

Or is it even possible to do a slot port here?
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post #1093 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 03:11 PM
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Can't do two 8.5s, doesn't work like that. You could run the ports on the side or top.
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post #1094 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 04:25 PM
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Another option is that the ports can be external if you don't have the room for a suitable cabinet size.
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post #1095 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 04:27 PM
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Can't do two 8.5s, doesn't work like that. You could run the ports on the side or top.
I see, thanks.

What about a port slot with the same volume as the port pipe (0.12 cu ft), would this work?
I need to have the port on the front.

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post #1096 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starcat View Post
With my claculations I came at gross inner volume

for the original design: 7.257 cu ft
and for the slot port version: 7.066 cu ft
I come up with the slot port taking up .8cf(2.25"Hx22"Wx28"L) and 2 4"Dx 17"L round taking up around .25cf.

What size of a slot port are you using to get those figures?

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post #1097 of 1468 Old 09-05-2018, 11:55 PM
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I come up with the slot port taking up .8cf(2.25"Hx22"Wx28"L) and 2 4"Dx 17"L round taking up around .25cf.

What size of a slot port are you using to get those figures?
I don't know how you calculate this, but referring to the dimensions and images of the slot port version, I get 0.337 cf displacement for the slot port to be subtracted from the inner volume of the subwoofer.
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post #1098 of 1468 Old 09-06-2018, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by starcat View Post
I don't know how you calculate this, but referring to the dimensions and images of the slot port version, I get 0.337 cf displacement for the slot port to be subtracted from the inner volume of the subwoofer.
Hmm someone else will have to check it, I was figuring the port volume from the first post slot port size and even figuring the one you listed I still get approx .7cf.

I can't think of a slot port that would take up less space than using round ports in the modeling I have done. But I haven't done a lot of that and compared them.

You have to add the thickness of the wood used(.75) to make the port in addition to the slot port itself(height, width, length). Using a calculator online can help, scroll down the page. https://www.hometheatershack.com/for...me-calculator/

You could be correct but I not following it.

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post #1099 of 1468 Old 09-06-2018, 11:58 AM
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bscool, you are right, I had a bug in my Excel (I've added of course the wood thickness but forgot the hight, yeah).

Slot port displacement (of the original 20Hz version) is 0.759 cf
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post #1100 of 1468 Old 09-11-2018, 02:03 PM
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Looking for a sanity check before pulling the trigger on all of the components to build 2 subs. I'm looking to go with standard build x2 and power them from a Crown XLS 1002 (had some bad experience with Behringer which is why I'm thinking of using the Crown instead).

For wiring (I wish I paid more attention in my EE classes in college) am I right in assuming that I'd go AVR -> miniDSP -> Crown in bridged mode -> subs using y-splitter? The Crown shows an 1100W output in bridged mode over 4ohm which would translate to each sub receiving 550W, right? Or am I wrong here and need to buy a more powerful amp and/or run the subs in series rather than parallel?
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post #1101 of 1468 Old 09-14-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeustheIII View Post
AVR -> miniDSP -> Crown in bridged mode -> subs using y-splitter?
You got it. Amp should see a 4 ohm load with the subs wired in parallel (using a Y-splitter or just running two pairs of cables), splitting the bridged power in half @ 4 ohms.


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post #1102 of 1468 Old 09-18-2018, 08:56 AM
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Thanks to everyone in this thread. My end tables are up and running and sound awesome!

Thanks @mtg90 for the design work and supporting the community!

Thanks @DaveyK for the design inspiration!

Build series, which might be helpful to anyone planning on building these for the first time: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...yep7YRpCsk9-18







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post #1103 of 1468 Old 09-18-2018, 12:41 PM
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Hello, I am just now starting into this project and signed up to ask a few questions. They have probably already been asked, but the thread is so big I couldn't find the answers I was looking for.

1. I'm planning on doing the slot instead of the ports. Are the box dimensions the same and I just cut a slot on the bottom and add a piece of wood inside to get the correct slot dimensions, or is the slot essentially "added" to the bottom of a box built to the dimensions in the initial post? Sorry if that sounds confusing, but I don't want to have the box tuned wrong.

2. Has anyone tried the new Behringer amp that appears to be replacing the NU1000DSP? It looks like Parts Express has dropped the iNuke line and has a new series to replace it. The comparable model number is NX1000D. Looking at the specs of both, they appear to be nearly identical, including the DSP specs. Just wondering if the new amp offers any benefits, like lower fan noise? It sure looks nicer. I can get the new one for $225 with a discount, versus $199 for the iNuke. Would prefer to keep my business with Parts Express, as they are fast and have never had a problem with them.

Thanks in advance!
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post #1104 of 1468 Old 09-18-2018, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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The slot port is added inside of the current box, so no changing of external dimensions needed.

The NX1000D should be fully compatible. I tried digging around Behringer's website looking for the new remote connect software but they don't seem to have it listed yet so setting might have to be inputted manually unless the remote connect software for the Inukes work.
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post #1105 of 1468 Old 09-18-2018, 03:10 PM
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Thanks to everyone in this thread. My end tables are up and running and sound awesome!

Thanks @mtg90 for the design work and supporting the community!
So....how do they sound? Also, any concern with sag on the PA460?
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post #1106 of 1468 Old 09-18-2018, 08:19 PM
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Another quick question about amplifiers - If price is equal, for this project is it still better to stick with the Behringer NU3000DSP over the Samson SXD3000? They seem pretty similar, with the Samson maybe having slightly better sound quality, but this project seems designed around the Behringer.
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post #1107 of 1468 Old 09-19-2018, 09:14 AM
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So....how do they sound? Also, any concern with sag on the PA460?
They sound fantastic, extremely pleased so far. Still need to do some tweaking.

The sag is a little bit higher than 5%, which is said to be the cutoff line for sag. I'm hoping it won't be an issue.

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post #1108 of 1468 Old 09-19-2018, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
They sound fantastic, extremely pleased so far. Still need to do some tweaking.

The sag is a little bit higher than 5%, which is said to be the cutoff line for sag. I'm hoping it won't be an issue.
jevchance,

Having built 3 VBSS'
I found your design to be winner. Congratulations - nice workmanship - they look great!
I will keep this in mind for my HT#2


2 of mine are custom sized and hidden (one in plain site as the base for my 2nd row back bar, doing double-duty as near field exciters for my front row seats)

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post #1109 of 1468 Old 09-19-2018, 11:32 AM
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jevchance,

Having built 3 VBSS'
I found your design to be winner. Congratulations - nice workmanship - they look great!
I will keep this in mind for my HT#2


2 of mine are custom sized and hidden (one in plain site as the base for my 2nd row back bar, doing double-duty as near field exciters for my front row seats)
Thank you. Also sounds like you have one heck of a setup!

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post #1110 of 1468 Old 09-19-2018, 03:17 PM
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I'm having trouble understanding one concept. Why wouldn't you want to tune a box to the lowest possible hz the driver is capable of? Just as an example, what are the negatives of tuning the slot of the vbss to 20hz instead 30hz?

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