The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 39 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1141 of 1499 Old 10-09-2018, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd M View Post
The picture of the bracing on the first page almost looks like it is supposed to support the driver, and the piece between the ports looks long enough to attach to the front face of the box. Is that how it is supposed to work? Or is the upper bracing in the box deeper than the driver goes?
Piece between the ports does attach to the baffle but there is a couple inches between the back of the driver and the bracing down the center.

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Originally Posted by Troy2488 View Post
Quick question, when installing ports for the 31 Hz tune. Do you connect both flared ends together or is using one fine?
Both flared ends attached together.

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Originally Posted by bafflesteppe View Post
I am building a single VBSS slot ported and want to make sure my dimensions seem right:

6.25 sq ft volume (not including port)

External box measurements = 23.5” W x 33.75” H x 18.5” D

Port is 22” wide (full width) x 1” high x 38.11” total length, round overs all around

Tuned to 15 Hz using one PA460-8
Should be good there.
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post #1142 of 1499 Old 10-15-2018, 11:26 AM
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Vbss done!!

I finally was able to complete my VBSS build. All 8 of them are now done, wired, painted...complete. I wish I could fire them up but there is still a significant amount of room construction to get done first. But here they are.

I'll be sure to post about my impressions once I get them going.
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post #1143 of 1499 Old 10-15-2018, 04:38 PM
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I am curious how this is going to sound. I'd expect it there should be some excessive output at a very reasonable price
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post #1144 of 1499 Old 10-16-2018, 11:37 AM
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I finally was able to complete my VBSS build. All 8 of them are now done

Can we get a picture of your face both before and after it melts?
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post #1145 of 1499 Old 10-16-2018, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by breadysmith View Post
I finally was able to complete my VBSS build. All 8 of them are now done, wired, painted...complete. I wish I could fire them up but there is still a significant amount of room construction to get done first. But here they are.

I'll be sure to post about my impressions once I get them going.


That's gonna be BADASS!
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post #1146 of 1499 Old 10-16-2018, 08:49 PM
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OK, I'm still wading through all the posts from way back in this thread, but the next thing I need help with is wiring up two of these to an amp.

I have an NU1000DSP and I want to power two of these. I guess I didn't pay close enough attention and assumed I could go from the amp to the subs with 1/4" TS cable, but that is not the case. I've never worked with speakon cables before, so I'm trying to figure out what I need. Unfortunately I already got 1/4" jacks for the speaker cabinets, but I can change that if I have to.

Does selecting bridged mode on the amplifier actually do anything besides mirror the inputs? Is the bridging actually accomplished by using the CH A +1 and CH B +2 outputs? If so, how is that wired on the amp end and the sub end? I've read it's a bad idea to go from a bridged amp to a 1/4" end that plugs into a speaker. Not that it won't work, but if it's not plugged in and touches something bad things can happen.

I'd love to see a wiring diagram of the same setup I'm using. I may have to switch some connectors around, but I want it right.
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post #1147 of 1499 Old 10-17-2018, 12:48 PM
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I'm getting ready to build four of these, and would like to reduce the number of straight cuts I'd have to make.

I'd like to make something similar to the Marty cube, using precut 24x24 panels. Using the panels, I'd end up with a 25.5 x 24 x 24 cube. Adding a divided 1.5 inch tall port 30 inches long should leave me around 6.3 cu ft and get close to the 15 hz and 20 hz tuning frequency.

Does this look right?
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post #1148 of 1499 Old 10-17-2018, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd M View Post
OK, I'm still wading through all the posts from way back in this thread, but the next thing I need help with is wiring up two of these to an amp.

I have an NU1000DSP and I want to power two of these. I guess I didn't pay close enough attention and assumed I could go from the amp to the subs with 1/4" TS cable, but that is not the case. I've never worked with speakon cables before, so I'm trying to figure out what I need. Unfortunately I already got 1/4" jacks for the speaker cabinets, but I can change that if I have to.

Does selecting bridged mode on the amplifier actually do anything besides mirror the inputs? Is the bridging actually accomplished by using the CH A +1 and CH B +2 outputs? If so, how is that wired on the amp end and the sub end? I've read it's a bad idea to go from a bridged amp to a 1/4" end that plugs into a speaker. Not that it won't work, but if it's not plugged in and touches something bad things can happen.

I'd love to see a wiring diagram of the same setup I'm using. I may have to switch some connectors around, but I want it right.

Take this with a grain of salt, since I've found most of this out by searching and not through experience. I recommend you use speakon connections for all ends of your cables. I can't post links since my account is so new, but if you search avsforum for "how to make a y splitter speakon" you'll find a great picture detailing how to wire two speakers in parallel, and I beleive if you're using the PA460 speakers you'll need to go parallel to hit the 4ohm load you want. And if you search for "How do I BRIDGE behringer inuke 1000?" also here on avsforum, you'll find the pinouts needed to connect the subs to the correct bridge pins in the amp. To bridge, it's all done in the cable itself inside the speakon connector. I wish I could link these for you, trying to be as helpful as I can without that ability.
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post #1149 of 1499 Old 10-17-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lightsong View Post
Take this with a grain of salt, since I've found most of this out by searching and not through experience. I recommend you use speakon connections for all ends of your cables. I can't post links since my account is so new, but if you search avsforum for "how to make a y splitter speakon" you'll find a great picture detailing how to wire two speakers in parallel, and I beleive if you're using the PA460 speakers you'll need to go parallel to hit the 4ohm load you want. And if you search for "How do I BRIDGE behringer inuke 1000?" also here on avsforum, you'll find the pinouts needed to connect the subs to the correct bridge pins in the amp. To bridge, it's all done in the cable itself inside the speakon connector. I wish I could link these for you, trying to be as helpful as I can without that ability.

I think I have it figured out. Looks like I need a 4 pole speakon connector that goes into channel A, and +1 and +2 pins get wired to the positive and negative of the speaker. Channel B apparently is not used for bridged? I would have thought I would need to pull something from that side, but I guess that's not the case. Then I just wire the two sub boxes in parallel to get the 4 ohm load. It took me an hour of poking around to figure out how to do it.
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post #1150 of 1499 Old 10-17-2018, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd M View Post
I think I have it figured out. Looks like I need a 4 pole speakon connector that goes into channel A, and +1 and +2 pins get wired to the positive and negative of the speaker. Channel B apparently is not used for bridged? I would have thought I would need to pull something from that side, but I guess that's not the case. Then I just wire the two sub boxes in parallel to get the 4 ohm load. It took me an hour of poking around to figure out how to do it.
Yep that's it! I'm glad you've got it figured out. Hunting is part of the fun but it can be part of the curse as well. Best of luck!
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post #1151 of 1499 Old 10-17-2018, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd M View Post
I think I have it figured out. Looks like I need a 4 pole speakon connector that goes into channel A, and +1 and +2 pins get wired to the positive and negative of the speaker. Channel B apparently is not used for bridged? I would have thought I would need to pull something from that side, but I guess that's not the case. Then I just wire the two sub boxes in parallel to get the 4 ohm load. It took me an hour of poking around to figure out how to do it.
The Positive for Channel B (+1) is also available as +2 on Channel A. That is how you use one speakOn in Channel A with a two wire cable to get the Bridged output.


The Negative for Channel B (-1) is also available as -2 on Channel A. That is how you use one speakOn in Channel A with a four wire cable to get both channel A and B output, such as for an active woofer-tweeter combo in one box, or running one cable to a splitter down the line for two boxes, daisy-chaining boxes, etc.

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post #1152 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breadysmith View Post
I finally was able to complete my VBSS build. All 8 of them are now done, wired, painted...complete. I wish I could fire them up but there is still a significant amount of room construction to get done first. But here they are.

I'll be sure to post about my impressions once I get them going.
I just stumbled upon this thread and saw this...I love your build, I'm currently researching subs and settled on maybe a psav1811 or svs pb4000. I'm quite intrigued by the DIY aspect of subwoofers. I'm an avid movie watcher and just want the best experience without going over the top on the spending. What boxes are those? Schematics? what would I need to do to make them? Bare with me please.
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post #1153 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 07:45 AM
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Check page one of this thread. All of the needed info should be there, if not, we are here to help . I have built two and they are pretty straight forward and the performance is exceptional.
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post #1154 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 10:38 AM
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I just stumbled upon this thread and saw this...I love your build, I'm currently researching subs and settled on maybe a psav1811 or svs pb4000. I'm quite intrigued by the DIY aspect of subwoofers. I'm an avid movie watcher and just want the best experience without going over the top on the spending. What boxes are those? Schematics? what would I need to do to make them? Bare with me please.
Pretty much what Zarkoff said. I just built a variation of what is spelled out in the initial post of the thread. I think I linked in one of my posts the specific version I built, which gets discussed around page 27 if I recall correctly. I wanted massive output with lots of headroom...on a very tight budget. So this design and the efficiency of it really helped my cause. I have the room and a wife that is willing to just let me do my thing, that allows me to have the 8 fairly good size boxes.

My input on DIY vs commercial is absolutely in favor of doing all things DIY...I'm building 11 speakers right now to complete my setup. So if budget is a big factor, which it appears to be for you and you have room for boxes the size of this design then I feel like this is a great subwoofer system.

I think for movies, if you can build several of subs, and tune them low, my slot port version will do either the 15 or 20 hz tune....I plugged up one side for the 15 hz tune...then I feel like they would be great performers for movie content. But given their capability to play at absurd levels higher up in the bass region they are also great for music.

If you have additional questions for me on anything I did with my build don't hesitate to send me a PM. I've been helped by so many on this forum that I definitely want to give back when I can.
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post #1155 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by breadysmith View Post
Pretty much what Zarkoff said. I just built a variation of what is spelled out in the initial post of the thread. I think I linked in one of my posts the specific version I built, which gets discussed around page 27 if I recall correctly. I wanted massive output with lots of headroom...on a very tight budget. So this design and the efficiency of it really helped my cause. I have the room and a wife that is willing to just let me do my thing, that allows me to have the 8 fairly good size boxes.

My input on DIY vs commercial is absolutely in favor of doing all things DIY...I'm building 11 speakers right now to complete my setup. So if budget is a big factor, which it appears to be for you and you have room for boxes the size of this design then I feel like this is a great subwoofer system.

I think for movies, if you can build several of subs, and tune them low, my slot port version will do either the 15 or 20 hz tune....I plugged up one side for the 15 hz tune...then I feel like they would be great performers for movie content. But given their capability to play at absurd levels higher up in the bass region they are also great for music.

If you have additional questions for me on anything I did with my build don't hesitate to send me a PM. I've been helped by so many on this forum that I definitely want to give back when I can.
Springs113...just a follow up. I looked up that PSA sub, and while a good value at $1450 for a commercial sub, for a few hundred dollars more (I'm about $1700 to build my 8...including the amp and some tools I needed to complete them) you get A LOT more output and placement flexibility.
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post #1156 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 01:00 PM
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Would building this 4" shorter and a bit wider cause issues? The only way I could do this is if the height is 28.5" and I put a round table top on it replace the existing end table we have now. 4" taller and it's not usable as an end table and wife attacks.
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post #1157 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 01:10 PM
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Would building this 4" shorter and a bit wider cause issues? The only way I could do this is if the height is 28.5" and I put a round table top on it replace the existing end table we have now. 4" taller and it's not usable as an end table and wife attacks.
You'll have to tweak the port length/width if you go this route. As long as the internal volume is kept the same it should be doable though. Someone more capable than me will be able to help you if you need assistance figuring out the new ports.
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post #1158 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 01:13 PM
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So port length and width would have to change even if the volume doesn't?

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post #1159 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 01:39 PM
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So port length and width would have to change even if the volume doesn't?
Sorry, I should have clarified more, if you mean wider when looking at the face so the baffle is , then no, ports can stay the same (if using precision ports, if using slot ports I'd change them to make it easier to build, but you could build the same size slot). If you're adding 4 inches behind the driver (so 24 inches instead of 20), then yes, ports would need to change as this design accounts for the distance between the port and the rear wall.
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post #1160 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mushroommunk View Post
Sorry, I should have clarified more, if you mean wider when looking at the face so the baffle is , then no, ports can stay the same (if using precision ports, if using slot ports I'd change them to make it easier to build, but you could build the same size slot). If you're adding 4 inches behind the driver (so 24 inches instead of 20), then yes, ports would need to change as this design accounts for the distance between the port and the rear wall.
Or you can add a piece of MDF/whatever to help load the port in lieu of an exterior wall. I did that on the modified build in my sig, held it off ~2-1/2" from the end of the Precision port and my F3 came in right about 16.5Hz. If I had used a larger piece I could have probably hit closer to 15 - 16Hz, but I'm happy with the results.
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post #1161 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 02:47 PM
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It looks like I can do 26.5 x 20.5 x 28. Depth doesn't change and height is where I need it.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D | (LCR) DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | generic surrounds (for now) | ULF: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 | Mid-bass: Four JBL CS1214s sealed @ 1.5cf each
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post #1162 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 03:17 PM
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It looks like I can do 26.5 x 20.5 x 28. Depth doesn't change and height is where I need it.
Yep, lands you almost exactly on original internal volume prior to driver, port, bracing volume.

BTW, in case you missed it in the first post, the 20.5" depth is with a double front baffle (outer baffle is 1/2" material).

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post #1163 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 03:37 PM
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Ahh yes.

I just realized that the PA460 is 8 ohm. Yuck. Even with a single channel of a 3000DSP, it's only getting 400 watts. 2 of these isn't a possibility. Is there any other 4ohm sub that works with the VBSS?

On a different note, if I wanted to could I power one 8 ohm sub on one channel of the 3000 and then a 4ohm sub on the other channel? I guess I don't know if an amp can run both channels at different resistances.

The reason I ask if that I can easily do a much smaller sealed sub for the other side of room. But no way I can do two VBSS.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D | (LCR) DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | generic surrounds (for now) | ULF: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 | Mid-bass: Four JBL CS1214s sealed @ 1.5cf each
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post #1164 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 06:42 PM
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The PA460 is a high efficiency driver and doesn't need many watts to get very loud. I run my two off an inuke 1000DSP in bridged mode for a 4 ohm load. Each driver only gets about 320ish watts but takes it to infinity and beyond, louder than I can tolerate in 1500 cft. One channel of the 3000DSP at 8 ohms is also about 320 watts so there shouldn't be any problem (other than not having two of course . You can run a second sub at 2, 4 or 8 ohms on the other channel.
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post #1165 of 1499 Old 10-22-2018, 07:13 PM
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The PA460 is a high efficiency driver and doesn't need many watts to get very loud. I run my two off an inuke 1000DSP in bridged mode for a 4 ohm load. Each driver only gets about 320ish watts but takes it to infinity and beyond, louder than I can tolerate in 1500 cft. One channel of the 3000DSP at 8 ohms is also about 320 watts so there shouldn't be any problem (other than not having two of course . You can run a second sub at 2, 4 or 8 ohms on the other channel.

Great news. Thank you. I wasn't sure if I could run diff ohm loads on each channel.
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post #1166 of 1499 Old 10-26-2018, 04:17 PM
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for those using the Neutrik Speakon Chassis (I have the round ones) how are you putting two wires on to one of the 3/16" tab crimps...I cant seem to find a 3/16" tab crimp with a piggy back or a 3/16" to (2) 1/4" adapter...I might just order the more expensive Speakon that uses 1/4"...


Oh and the speakers and amp arrived today...just ordered a new track saw to cut all my mdf...needed a new saw anyhow so went big :P...

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post #1167 of 1499 Old 10-26-2018, 08:07 PM
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for those using the Neutrik Speakon Chassis (I have the round ones) how are you putting two wires on to one of the 3/16" tab crimps...I cant seem to find a 3/16" tab crimp with a piggy back or a 3/16" to (2) 1/4" adapter...I might just order the more expensive Speakon that uses 1/4"...


Oh and the speakers and amp arrived today...just ordered a new track saw to cut all my mdf...needed a new saw anyhow so went big :P...

I searched for these, only found a source in the UK for 3/16ths piggyback connectors. I'd use the 1/4" ones and crimp them a bit tighter with a pair of pliers. A drop of hot melt glue on the connector when plugged together will ensure they will not come apart without your express consent.
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Ask your doctor if DIY is right for you. Side effects of DIY may include anxiety, elevated blood pressure, lightheadedness, rapid heartbeat, skeletal muscle flaccidity, euphoria, psychological dependence, insomnia, confusion, blurred vision, implusivity, uncontrolled or repeated movements.
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post #1168 of 1499 Old 10-26-2018, 08:10 PM
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michael hurd is offline  
post #1169 of 1499 Old 10-30-2018, 12:09 PM
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My Denon AVR has RCA outs for the subs...has anyone used the Neutrik XLR to RCA adapter? I need this to go from amp to AVR...Was thinking of doing this and using a longer RCA cable to go back to the AVR...the amp will not be near the AVR (approx 10' away) so I can use 14 gauge speaker wire for my speakon connections...will only have about 8' of speaker wire doing it this way...


I also don't plan to run it all the time...I will only turn it on when watching movies (not tv)...so having the amp where it is will allow me easy access to turn it on/off as needed...fan should be here today as the NX3000D fan is OMG loud...should start the build this weekend and will start a new thread...

Denon x4300H
Ascend Acoustics CMT 340 L/C/R with HTM 200 Surrounds
Rythmik LVX12
Oppo 203
(2) V.B.S.S w/ NX3000D
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post #1170 of 1499 Old 10-30-2018, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggere View Post
My Denon AVR has RCA outs for the subs...has anyone used the Neutrik XLR to RCA adapter? I need this to go from amp to AVR...Was thinking of doing this and using a longer RCA cable to go back to the AVR...the amp will not be near the AVR (approx 10' away) so I can use 14 gauge speaker wire for my speakon connections...will only have about 8' of speaker wire doing it this way...


I also don't plan to run it all the time...I will only turn it on when watching movies (not tv)...so having the amp where it is will allow me easy access to turn it on/off as needed...fan should be here today as the NX3000D fan is OMG loud...should start the build this weekend and will start a new thread...
FYI the XLR connection is not specific to Neutrik. XLR is an industry-standard connection.

I used this one to go from my receiver to amp, works great: https://********/2QcBHxW

If you prefer to run RCA you could use something like this: https://********/2Dd0AX7

Edit: apparently avs doesn't like Amazon links. Search amazon for "XLR to RCA". I used the Hosa 5 foot cable.

--
Epson 2030 - Denon X1300W - Eosone RSF 1000 - Eosone RSC 300 - Eosone RSF 600 - Micca M-8C for ATMOS - 2 @ VBSS End Tables
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