The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 48 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1411 of 1469 Old 05-04-2019, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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The subwoofer itself shouldn't make that kind of noise, or if it did it would go away at lower volumes.

Do you have another amplifier to test with? Or you could hook the sub up to the left or right channel on your receiver (set mains to full range - disconnect both speakers - run receiver in pure direct stereo mode if available) then play a sine wave and see if it still exhibits the same issue. This would tell you if it's a problem with the NX3000 or not.
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post #1412 of 1469 Old 05-05-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post
The subwoofer itself shouldn't make that kind of noise, or if it did it would go away at lower volumes.

Do you have another amplifier to test with? Or you could hook the sub up to the left or right channel on your receiver (set mains to full range - disconnect both speakers - run receiver in pure direct stereo mode if available) then play a sine wave and see if it still exhibits the same issue. This would tell you if it's a problem with the NX3000 or not.
Thank you very much, I will try this and update. I can run the receiver in stereo and run a sine wave test.
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post #1413 of 1469 Old 05-13-2019, 06:52 PM
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So.... just so it's clear to me. Two will run off of a inuke 1000DSP (bridged) no problems? Should I wait for a 3000DSP instead?
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post #1414 of 1469 Old 05-13-2019, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by seth243 View Post
So.... just so it's clear to me. Two will run off of a inuke 1000DSP (bridged) no problems? Should I wait for a 3000DSP instead?
Sure. Wired in series to present a 4 ohm load, each driver would get a bit over 300 watts.
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post #1415 of 1469 Old 05-13-2019, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by seth243 View Post
So.... just so it's clear to me. Two will run off of a inuke 1000DSP (bridged) no problems? Should I wait for a 3000DSP instead?
Sure. Wired in series to present a 4 ohm load, each driver would get a bit over 300 watts.
Series? Wouldn't that make it 16ohms? Parallel makes it 4 ohms...?

I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing out on anything by having some potential headroom with the 3000DSP vs the 1000DSP.
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post #1416 of 1469 Old 05-13-2019, 08:36 PM
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I run two off a 1000DSP and have plenty of headroom in about 1500 cft. You can run many more off of the 3000 though which would give even more headroom.
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post #1417 of 1469 Old 05-13-2019, 08:45 PM
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I run two off a 1000DSP and have plenty of headroom in about 1500 cft. You can run many more off of the 3000 though which would give even more headroom.
Awesome. So you're just running them in parallel in bridged mode?
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post #1418 of 1469 Old 05-13-2019, 09:14 PM
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Awesome. So you're just running them in parallel in bridged mode?
Correct. A 4 ohm load to the amp in bridged mode.
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post #1419 of 1469 Old 05-14-2019, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by seth243 View Post
Series? Wouldn't that make it 16ohms? Parallel makes it 4 ohms...?

I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing out on anything by having some potential headroom with the 3000DSP vs the 1000DSP.

Yes, sorry, mis-typed. In parallel rather.
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post #1420 of 1469 Old 05-15-2019, 08:51 AM
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I'm also running 2 off a 1000D and it sounds good. They definitely can take more.

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post #1421 of 1469 Old 05-15-2019, 09:53 AM
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IM also running both mine off a 1000DSP bridged, With plenty of headroom.
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post #1422 of 1469 Old 05-18-2019, 04:36 PM
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For the past year or so I've been running my VBSS's 1 sub per channel on the 3000dsp. I'm wanting to use one of the channels to power a BOSS platform I built, so I'm going to put the 2 subs on 1 channel now. For anyone doing this, do you adjust the limiter or settings at all? I'll wire them in parallel to get a 4 ohm load.

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post #1423 of 1469 Old 05-18-2019, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BryceDH View Post
For the past year or so I've been running my VBSS's 1 sub per channel on the 3000dsp. I'm wanting to use one of the channels to power a BOSS platform I built, so I'm going to put the 2 subs on 1 channel now. For anyone doing this, do you adjust the limiter or settings at all? I'll wire them in parallel to get a 4 ohm load.
You wouldn't need a limiter at all. At 4 ohms the 3k puts out ~600 watts/channel, so you'll only be feeding each PA460 ~300 watts, well under their RMS rating.
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post #1424 of 1469 Old 05-23-2019, 12:50 AM
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Hey guys, I'm new to speakon cables and connections and what needs to be done in order to achieve wiring up a 4 ohm load.

-I have the inuke 1000dsp -I have two seperate subwoofers, they are 8 ohms each and have a speakon connection. Model Dayton PA460-8

I want to wire them in bridge mode. To accomplish this they need to be wired in parallel and connect to output A of the amp. This will give me a 4 ohm load and each sub would recieve 500w

From what info I have this is the cable I would need to make ?

And wire the red to 1+ and the black to 2+ as per the settings on the back of the amp

Am I missing anything? Am I over complicating things ? Do I need a 4 pole wire ? If so why?

Thanks in advance
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post #1425 of 1469 Old 05-23-2019, 12:51 AM
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https://www.avsforum.com/photopost/data/2376635/e/e4/e40cd979_howtomakeaspeakonysplitter5.png

This is the cable I'm referring to.
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post #1426 of 1469 Old 05-23-2019, 06:19 AM
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I found this video really helpful when I was in the exact same situation:


He goes through bridging so that should have all the info you need.

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post #1427 of 1469 Old 05-23-2019, 06:28 AM
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Also, just a heads up: you're looking at the max power output on the iNuke, the RMS is closer to 375 watts per speaker.

Specifications: • Output power (per channel, stereo): 110 watts RMS, 160 watts peak (8 ohms), 210 watts RMS, 310 watts peak (4 ohms), 380 watts RMS, 530 watts peak (2 ohms) • Output power (bridged mono): 430 watts RMS, 620 watts peak (8 ohms), 750 watts RMS, 1050 watts peak (4 ohms) • Frequency response: 20 - 20,000 Hz, +0/-1 dB • Distortion: < 0.1% • Damping factor: > 155 @ 8 ohms • Signal-to-noise ratio: > 98 dB • Power supply: 120V, 60 Hz • Dimensions: 3.5" H x 19" W x 9.76" D (89 x 483 x 248 mm) • Weight: 6.4 lbs. (2.9 kg).

Source: https://www.parts-express.com/behrin...-dsp--248-6702

Its still plenty of power to drive the PA-460-8s.

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post #1428 of 1469 Old 05-23-2019, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
I found this video really helpful when I was in the exact same situation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka6JiAxOJLM

He goes through bridging so that should have all the info you need.
Ok so Just to get some final questions out of the way and a conformation before I go ahead and buy/make everything I need

1) I need a 4 pole speakon connector that connects to the AMP SIDE ONLY - I can use only a 2 conductor wire ( why do some forums say people need to use a 4 conductor ? )

2) as per the back of the nu1000 ( it says bridge mode is 1+ positive, and 2+ negative ) I connect the red wire, to the 1+ connecting lug on the 4 pole connector. I connect the black wire to the 2+ connecting lug on the connector.

3 I can then wire up the cable as shown in the picture and terminate both sides with a 2 pole speakon connector. I match the red/black on the two pole connector to match where the red/black is connected on the female speakon on each subwoofer ( so if red is +1 and black is -1 in the subwoofer, I would connect the red/black the same way on each end of the 2 pole connectors that go into the subs ).

https://www.avsforum.com/photopost/d...ysplitter5.png

does this cover everything? my confusion is why I needed a 4 pole connector if I only use two wires on the amp side. I 100% dont need a 4 conductor wire? why are they used in some builds if most subs only have 2 connections?
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post #1429 of 1469 Old 05-23-2019, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Corcoran View Post
Ok so Just to get some final questions out of the way and a conformation before I go ahead and buy/make everything I need

1) I need a 4 pole speakon connector that connects to the AMP SIDE ONLY - I can use only a 2 conductor wire ( why do some forums say people need to use a 4 conductor ? )

2) as per the back of the nu1000 ( it says bridge mode is 1+ positive, and 2+ negative ) I connect the red wire, to the 1+ connecting lug on the 4 pole connector. I connect the black wire to the 2+ connecting lug on the connector.

3 I can then wire up the cable as shown in the picture and terminate both sides with a 2 pole speakon connector. I match the red/black on the two pole connector to match where the red/black is connected on the female speakon on each subwoofer ( so if red is +1 and black is -1 in the subwoofer, I would connect the red/black the same way on each end of the 2 pole connectors that go into the subs ).

https://www.avsforum.com/photopost/d...ysplitter5.png

does this cover everything? my confusion is why I needed a 4 pole connector if I only use two wires on the amp side. I 100% dont need a 4 conductor wire? why are they used in some builds if most subs only have 2 connections?
I believe this to be correct. You 100% DO NOT need a 4 conductor wire.

I suppose the primary purpose of the 4 pole connector is for bi-amping. Some amps are capable of running two channels through a single connection for this purpose. I believe the iNuke is not capable of this, but the 4-pole plug is still the most common, standard connector. Keep in mind these connectors are designed to be used in pro audio applications like concerts and DJs where you might want to run a single cable to power a pair of big speakers for speed and simplicity.

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post #1430 of 1469 Old 05-23-2019, 03:10 PM
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Ok so Just to get some final questions out of the way and a conformation before I go ahead and buy/make everything I need
Why the same questions in multiple threads?
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post #1431 of 1469 Old 05-25-2019, 04:07 PM
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I used 14awg when making up my speaker cable since it's all my local store had.

Will this be an issue ?

It's short runs 10 feet more or less. I am using bridge mode on the 1000dsp.

I understand bigger is better but realistically am I in the clear? No need to rewire ?
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post #1432 of 1469 Old 05-25-2019, 04:09 PM
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14 should be fine on a short run. 12 is preferred but I doubt you’ll lose much with 14.


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post #1433 of 1469 Old 05-25-2019, 05:25 PM
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Ok guys I got mine up and running but have some issues

1000dsp
Bridge mode so I'm using a 4 pole speakon, split to two vbss using 2 pole connectors
The lfe out from my onkyo rz830 is going to input A via rca to ts

I downloaded the firmware from the initial post and verified and changed anything that didnt match up. After all its firmware for the 3000. I used the .txt to ensure all settings are correct for the 1000dsp amp.

Everything is working, but barely. I have the gain knob on the inuke maxed, I have the lfe channel set to +10 on my onkyo rz830.

I am barely getting bass, nothing impressive at all.

I saw a light flicker once on the side of the knob on the inuke, I assume they should light up like a Christmas tree to show a bouncing gain response.

Help !

Thanks

Last edited by Chris Corcoran; 05-25-2019 at 06:11 PM.
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post #1434 of 1469 Old 05-25-2019, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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You did store the DSP settings to one of the open presets on the inuke correct?

If you only loaded the file and adjusted the values in thr DSP settings then power cycled at any point after the inuke will revert to the stock DSP settings which I believe has a highpass set which might be why you get hardly any output.
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post #1435 of 1469 Old 05-25-2019, 06:48 PM
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Yes, I believe I did.

It's stored in the second one. First one is the default. It looks like its loaded ip based on the display as well.
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post #1436 of 1469 Old 05-25-2019, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Load up the inuke software and connect to the amp while playing music and have at look at the input and output meters on the right side. Output should be much higher then the input, if it is lower then the settings are incorrect.
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post #1437 of 1469 Old 05-26-2019, 09:32 AM
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Ok everything seems to be working the best it can be

All settings are put in properly, when watching the amp live via software and PC the input is slight lower than the output - which is a good thing.

But in order for me to really feel it and get them moving the LFE is maxed from the onkyo reciever. And bass is set to +10 on a quick bass/treble setting on a front knob.


Is this an issue ? Is there a way to compensate this via the 1000dsp? So the gain is almost overpowering and I need to lower via the onkyo? It does not seem right to have avr maxed, 1000dsp maxed and me feeling there should be more punch. There should be more gusto from these absolutely massive boxes and woofers, especially 2 of them.
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post #1438 of 1469 Old 05-26-2019, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Corcoran View Post
Is this an issue ? Is there a way to compensate this via the 1000dsp? So the gain is almost overpowering and I need to lower via the onkyo? It does not seem right to have avr maxed, 1000dsp maxed and me feeling there should be more punch. There should be more gusto from these absolutely massive boxes and woofers, especially 2 of them.
The knob on the front of the iNuke isn't gain, it's an input attenuator. What is the gain set to in the software, under Filter/Crossover? Sounds like you need to boost that (and lower the subwoofer level on the Onkyo).
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post #1439 of 1469 Old 05-26-2019, 10:58 AM
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Thanks I'll check it out


How do I know if I have the gain adjusted too low or high? Can I damage it if I max out the internal gain setting in the dsp? Any tips for setting this is appreciated.

I'm 90% in getting this all wrapped up.
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post #1440 of 1469 Old 05-26-2019, 11:01 AM
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looks like gain is set to 0.

I have been playing with it and this is all relatively new to me. In terms of EB levels and gain etc so I'll ask some stupid questions.

I obviously dont want the output level to rise and clip/light the red LED correct?

If it does happen, does it damage the amp? Sub? Or is it just a unclean signal which just will sound like crap?

How robust are the 460 subs? It says 500 rms, so I assume I can essentially never damage or overdrive them with my bridged 1000dsp which should be doing about 375 rms to each.

Any crap sound is simply from overdriving the amp via the gain setting. The subs can not damaged, or even utilized to their full max potential because the amp cant output the max of 500rms that they can handle.

If I'm completely lost I apologize in advance.

Last edited by Chris Corcoran; 05-26-2019 at 03:17 PM.
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