The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 60 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1771 of 1846 Old 01-05-2020, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by joker927 View Post
but acoustically this feels like end game.

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Yep you have caught the disease. We all have said the same thing and then started to look what we could build next.


I do know the 1099's are awesome. But are they really end game? Might not the 1299's be just a tad better? And then might not a few 24's help with the low end? I bet the 1299's and 24's would be end game, but then again maybe not. See how this all works, it's a disease.


Congrats on your room and builds. It really is a satisfying feeling when you sit back to listen to music or a movie, looking at the speakers you built.


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post #1772 of 1846 Old 01-05-2020, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by joker927 View Post
I have an extremely large room and I just built a pair of 1099s to go with my dual VBSS.
Do you find the dual VBSS sufficient for the (ultra) low end in movies?
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post #1773 of 1846 Old 01-05-2020, 01:56 PM
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Do you find the dual VBSS sufficient for the (ultra) low end in movies?
Depends what you mean by ultra. VBSS isn't sealed, it's a pro woofer and all with a D class amp like inuke id be a fool to expect sub 10hz.

I found one corner loaded VBSS to be sufficient for my main seat. However it was not enough for equal response in all seats. Adding the second fixed that and added some more volume too. They produce a flat response down to 18Hz in all seats and I have them built with the 20Hz ports. I will likely get bored one day and see how 15hz tunes graph but I haven't yet.

I bought an inuke 6000 with the intention of building four VBSS and a um18. I'm not an expert this was recommended by people here on the forum. With two VBSS I feel no need to get the um18. The mirrors in the bathroom next to the theater required sticky tac because they shake on the walls. I find that sufficient.

Btw the inuke 6000 has power on pop issues so I actually regret getting the high power amp after realizing the low power VBSSs is all I need.

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post #1774 of 1846 Old 01-05-2020, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by joker927 View Post
Depends what you mean by ultra. VBSS isn't sealed, it's a pro woofer and all with a D class amp like inuke id be a fool to expect sub 10hz.

I found one corner loaded VBSS to be sufficient for my main seat. However it was not enough for equal response in all seats. Adding the second fixed that and added some more volume too. They produce a flat response down to 18Hz in all seats and I have them built with the 20Hz ports. I will likely get bored one day and see how 15hz tunes graph but I haven't yet.

I bought an inuke 6000 with the intention of building four VBSS and a um18. I'm not an expert this was recommended by people here on the forum. With two VBSS I feel no need to get the um18. The mirrors in the bathroom next to the theater required sticky tac because they shake on the walls. I find that sufficient.

Btw the inuke 6000 has power on pop issues so I actually regret getting the high power amp after realizing the low power VBSSs is all I need.

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Also depends on room- I had 2 and they were easy to get flat to 10hz..also My 3000DSp pops also lol
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post #1775 of 1846 Old 01-06-2020, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joker927 View Post
Depends what you mean by ultra. VBSS isn't sealed, it's a pro woofer and all with a D class amp like inuke id be a fool to expect sub 10hz.

I found one corner loaded VBSS to be sufficient for my main seat. However it was not enough for equal response in all seats. Adding the second fixed that and added some more volume too. They produce a flat response down to 18Hz in all seats and I have them built with the 20Hz ports. I will likely get bored one day and see how 15hz tunes graph but I haven't yet.

I bought an inuke 6000 with the intention of building four VBSS and a um18. I'm not an expert this was recommended by people here on the forum. With two VBSS I feel no need to get the um18. The mirrors in the bathroom next to the theater required sticky tac because they shake on the walls. I find that sufficient.
That's nice to hear, thanks for the feedback! I'm in a similar situation, but started the other way round, with the Marty. I was planning to add 2 VBSS but maybe I can substitute instead, which would save me some space
Also not expecting sub 10Hz, and I'm not getting that with my Marty now either. Flat to 18Hz sounds very good, and I was probably going for the 15Hz tuned cabinets.
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post #1776 of 1846 Old 01-06-2020, 04:06 PM
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I have four VBSS's tuned to 15 hz that put out plenty of ULF for my needs in 1500 cft.
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post #1777 of 1846 Old 01-06-2020, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Zarkoff500 View Post
I have four VBSS's tuned to 15 hz that put out plenty of ULF for my needs in 1500 cft.
That's good to know. I'm building 4 tuned to 15 hz for a 1300 cu ft room. I have all the MDF setting in my garage waiting to be cut, just haven't had the time or weather to do it. If I don't do it soon, I may just order the DIYSG flat packs to speed things up.
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post #1778 of 1846 Old 01-06-2020, 09:18 PM
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Im getting an itch to build a second VBSS. I need to redesign this one a bit to fit behind my sofa. I would love some input. Here is what I had in mind:

21" High, 10" Deep, 72.25" Wide

I know that makes an awkward box... Interior dimensions remain nearly identical. I'd like to still use the pre-made flared ports from Parts Express. Would it be okay to port these on the side of the enclosure with the sub mounted in the middle on the long wide front ?

Would it be better to place the speaker on the far left front of the box and port it out the right side or is middle okay for the location of the actual speaker ?

Also... My sofa is tucked inside a dormer window. I would have around 18" of clearance to the right of the ports that are mounted on the right side of the box. I imagine that is more than enough clearance. I might get some odd resonances tucked in the window but I'm out of space in this room.

Last question... I'm sure it done frequently... Is it okay to place the speaker very close against the couch ? Thats the whole purpose of tucking it back there.

I've attached a pic of my current VBSS that doubles as an Arcade Stand. I currently have an iNuke1000 and I'd like to drive one more sub with it that I can place behind a couch.

A VBSS with slim, wide dimensions is my preference. Max depth is around 10 inches (11 at the bottom, 9 at the top). Max height is around 21". Thats how I came to the dimensions I listed above.

I value your input. Thank you!
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post #1779 of 1846 Old 01-08-2020, 02:28 PM
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Is it necessary/beneficial to put gasket tape between the 4" precision port flares and the box? I've only done slot ports in the past and am curious if the seal between the port and box needs to be tight.
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post #1780 of 1846 Old 01-08-2020, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Bevier View Post
Is it necessary/beneficial to put gasket tape between the 4" precision port flares and the box? I've only done slot ports in the past and am curious if the seal between the port and box needs to be tight.
I did not find the seal to be sufficient, I used silicone to seal it but gasket tape would work as well.
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post #1781 of 1846 Old 01-09-2020, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metacove View Post
Im getting an itch to build a second VBSS. I need to redesign this one a bit to fit behind my sofa. I would love some input. Here is what I had in mind:

21" High, 10" Deep, 72.25" Wide

I know that makes an awkward box... Interior dimensions remain nearly identical. I'd like to still use the pre-made flared ports from Parts Express. Would it be okay to port these on the side of the enclosure with the sub mounted in the middle on the long wide front ?

Would it be better to place the speaker on the far left front of the box and port it out the right side or is middle okay for the location of the actual speaker ?

Also... My sofa is tucked inside a dormer window. I would have around 18" of clearance to the right of the ports that are mounted on the right side of the box. I imagine that is more than enough clearance. I might get some odd resonances tucked in the window but I'm out of space in this room.

Last question... I'm sure it done frequently... Is it okay to place the speaker very close against the couch ? Thats the whole purpose of tucking it back there.

I've attached a pic of my current VBSS that doubles as an Arcade Stand. I currently have an iNuke1000 and I'd like to drive one more sub with it that I can place behind a couch.

A VBSS with slim, wide dimensions is my preference. Max depth is around 10 inches (11 at the bottom, 9 at the top). Max height is around 21". Thats how I came to the dimensions I listed above.

I value your input. Thank you!
The overall volume works out the same as the original VBSS - you obviously did the math. I see no problem having the 4" ports come out the side, with the sub mounted in the middle. The tune will be slightly higher than the original VBSS because of the proximity of the ports to the rear wall, I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing I'd recommend, is to surface mount the sub (no recess) to the front wall since the sub is 7.5" deep. That leaves you with 1-3/4" clearance to the back wall, which I wouldn't want to reduce. I see no problem with the sub close to the couch, as long as it couldn't hit it at max excursion.
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post #1782 of 1846 Old 01-09-2020, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AngryJeremy View Post
The overall volume works out the same as the original VBSS - you obviously did the math. I see no problem having the 4" ports come out the side, with the sub mounted in the middle. The tune will be slightly higher than the original VBSS because of the proximity of the ports to the rear wall, I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing I'd recommend, is to surface mount the sub (no recess) to the front wall since the sub is 7.5" deep. That leaves you with 1-3/4" clearance to the back wall, which I wouldn't want to reduce. I see no problem with the sub close to the couch, as long as it couldn't hit it at max excursion.
Thank you so very much for taking the time to ease some of my concerns. I genuinely appreciate it!
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post #1783 of 1846 Old 01-10-2020, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by metacove View Post
Thank you so very much for taking the time to ease some of my concerns. I genuinely appreciate it!
I built two 10" deep variants tuned at ~20hz to go behind my couch that work great - here's the design if interested. The bracing shown is close that what I used in the end, except I didn't put the blocks in the corners. Just have each brace no more than 8" away from a wall or another brace.

I ended up going with 32" rather than 30" for the height to closer match the original vbss internal gross volume (7ft3).

Port is 3x8.5x20 for 20hz tune
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post #1784 of 1846 Old 01-10-2020, 06:04 PM
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This might be a silly question, but are you able to lay the VBSS (from the original post) on it's side? The height would be about 4 inches too tall, but on it's side, it's perfect!
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post #1785 of 1846 Old 01-10-2020, 06:06 PM
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I built two 10" deep variants tuned at ~20hz to go behind my couch that work great - here's the design if interested. The bracing shown is close that what I used in the end, except I didn't put the blocks in the corners. Just have each brace no more than 8" away from a wall or another brace.

Port is 3x8.5x20 for 20hz tune
Ohhhh nice, I had no idea you could tweak the dimensions like this. I might add a third sub behind the couch.
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post #1786 of 1846 Old 01-10-2020, 06:28 PM
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This might be a silly question, but are you able to lay the VBSS (from the original post) on it's side? The height would be about 4 inches too tall, but on it's side, it's perfect!
Orientation should not be any problem. Many have found that driver facing wall/corner works better in their room. It all depends on the room...

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post #1787 of 1846 Old 01-11-2020, 04:38 PM
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should i cut a 16.5" hole for the subwoofer? i measured the cardboard it came with. i just wanna be sure.
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post #1788 of 1846 Old 01-11-2020, 04:52 PM
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should i cut a 16.5" hole for the subwoofer? i measured the cardboard it came with. i just wanna be sure.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...oofer--295-036 under "Mounting Information"

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Baffle Cutout Diameter 16.73"
16.5" would likely be much too small. I believe I cut mine at 16.75"

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post #1789 of 1846 Old 01-12-2020, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Bevier View Post
I built two 10" deep variants tuned at ~20hz to go behind my couch that work great - here's the design if interested. The bracing shown is close that what I used in the end, except I didn't put the blocks in the corners. Just have each brace no more than 8" away from a wall or another brace.

Port is 3x8.5x20 for 20hz tune
Man, That's great. Kinda wish I had thought of something like this before I set out to make the vbss side tables. I may still make these for behind the couch if the side tables aren't enough. Thanks for the design
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post #1790 of 1846 Old 01-13-2020, 12:02 AM
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so i ****ed up cutting the hole by 1/16th too big. i shined a flashlight under the sub while placing it on the baffle and lights comes out where the screw goes. can i salvage this?

i got window sealing tape. i was thinking of putting it where the screw goes on the sub, mount it to the plywood with wood screw and then put more sealing tape all over it. would this work?

Last edited by stylesxd; 01-13-2020 at 02:08 AM.
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post #1791 of 1846 Old 01-13-2020, 05:49 AM
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I would try adding a 1 inch veneer on the sides of the hole to reduce the hole diameter or add a small block of wood behind the baffle where the screw goes in

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so i ****ed up cutting the hole by 1/16th too big. i shined a flashlight under the sub while placing it on the baffle and lights comes out where the screw goes. can i salvage this?

i got window sealing tape. i was thinking of putting it where the screw goes on the sub, mount it to the plywood with wood screw and then put more sealing tape all over it. would this work?
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post #1792 of 1846 Old 01-14-2020, 10:05 AM
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If your AVR has Audyssey room correction, is there still a need to separately EQ the sub using the iNuke amp ?
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post #1793 of 1846 Old 01-14-2020, 10:09 AM
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If your AVR has Audyssey room correction, is there still a need to separately EQ the sub using the iNuke amp ?
What I did was: Turn off Audyssey, put in the eq parameters from the first post in the iNuke. Then gain matched the sub. Measured the room. Put REW eq parameters in the iNuke then run Audyssey.

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post #1794 of 1846 Old 01-14-2020, 10:29 AM
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let me re-phrase the question, will Audysseey be able to eq the subwoofer correctly that would no longer require an Eq from the Inuke amp?

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Originally Posted by cobr View Post
What I did was: Turn off Audyssey, put in the eq parameters from the first post in the iNuke. Then gain matched the sub. Measured the room. Put REW eq parameters in the iNuke then run Audyssey.

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post #1795 of 1846 Old 01-14-2020, 01:18 PM
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Audyssey will phase and level match the sub/subs, and (I believe) will try to flatten sub response some. What it won't do that the iNuke or another DSP will, is set a highpass filter for a ported sub, or boost the low end like the iNukes settings do.
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post #1796 of 1846 Old 01-15-2020, 06:22 AM
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let me re-phrase the question, will Audysseey be able to eq the subwoofer correctly that would no longer require an Eq from the Inuke amp?
Simple answer, yes. You'll need to upload the iNuke settings from the original post, but Audyssey should be able to take over from there to correct room modes. You don't have to get a mic and manually EQ

I have a Yamaha amp, and found that YPAO does not smooth the sub response as much as I would like. So I manually adjust PEQ in the iNuke amp based on room measurements.
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post #1797 of 1846 Old 01-15-2020, 01:28 PM
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Question about vbss subwoofer & dayton PA speakers

Hi i was wondering if you could answer a couple questions i had it would really be appreciated. I was wondering if you have heard the other model number dayton PA speakers like the PA 380 15" and the PA 310 12" I am looking for a budget driver that dose good on mid bass 50hz to 250hz i was also wondering how those models mid bass compared to the PA 460 you use in your vbss subwoofer. Thank you
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post #1798 of 1846 Old 01-15-2020, 02:30 PM
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Hi i was wondering if you could answer a couple questions i had it would really be appreciated. I was wondering if you have heard the other model number dayton PA speakers like the PA 380 15" and the PA 310 12" I am looking for a budget driver that dose good on mid bass 50hz to 250hz i was also wondering how those models mid bass compared to the PA 460 you use in your vbss subwoofer. Thank you
I used the PA 15 in a modified VBSS and thought it sounded dam good for a budget driver.

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post #1799 of 1846 Old 01-15-2020, 03:53 PM
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If your AVR has Audyssey room correction, is there still a need to separately EQ the sub using the iNuke amp ?

Yes. Amp DSP turns it from a speaker in a box to a sub. Audyssey matches it to your room and other speakers.
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post #1800 of 1846 Old 01-15-2020, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
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let me re-phrase the question, will Audysseey be able to eq the subwoofer correctly that would no longer require an Eq from the Inuke amp?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryJeremy View Post
Simple answer, yes. You'll need to upload the iNuke settings from the original post, but Audyssey should be able to take over from there to correct room modes. You don't have to get a mic and manually EQ

I have a Yamaha amp, and found that YPAO does not smooth the sub response as much as I would like. So I manually adjust PEQ in the iNuke amp based on room measurements.
I disagree, my answer would be no, absolutely not. First off, Audyssey cannot apply high pass filters.

BlueGhost's response is closer to the correct answer. You need the ability to EQ the subs with whatever EQ you have available (miniDSP, iNuke/NX DSP, etc.) and then allow Audyssey to work from there.

NOTE: Audyssey's "magic" may not produce what you are after.

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