What fasteners are you using for big drivers? - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 83 Old 01-04-2016, 11:08 AM
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While in still firmly in the wood screw camp, I definitely understand using those slab nuts on a commercial product. Little things like that go a long way toward giving an impression of quality in the product, and those slab nuts beat the sauce out of T nuts. Awesome that you're making them available on the forum.
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post #62 of 83 Old 01-08-2016, 07:44 AM
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post #63 of 83 Old 01-08-2016, 09:31 AM
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All those t-nuts looks nice ... I just used what I had laying around for my 8 HT18s ... Simpson StrongTie #10 1.5" hex head structural screw ... think I bought them at a local HD
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post #64 of 83 Old 02-06-2016, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
do you install these on the front or back of the baffle? See attached pic I saw on Amazon? Bob
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post #65 of 83 Old 02-07-2016, 03:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I went the same route as NotNyt did since he runs the same TC sounds LMS drivers I have. They weigh 86lbs each. I just used wood screws and there is no issue in 7 weeks with the insane pounding I get from these subs. I didn't want to risk something stripping out on me.
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post #66 of 83 Old 02-07-2016, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob_m10 View Post
do you install these on the front or back of the baffle?
On the back.

I've used this fasteners, that i managed to get locally after a lot o searching:
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post #67 of 83 Old 02-07-2016, 12:00 PM
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Building a pair of Ultimax 18's for someone. He bought everything from parts xpress, including the fastener kit with Tnuts.
I scuffed up the backside with an awl to really give the epoxy something to bite into. Then covered the area with epoxy, coated the portion of the tnut that inserts into the wood, and installed them. Used the bolts with washers to draw them in tight and square. Then, before the epoxy set, put a wood screw in to secure the tnut. Once all were done, I went back over them all with more epoxy to lock it all in place. Let it sit overnight before removing the bolts.








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post #68 of 83 Old 11-02-2016, 11:33 AM
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I thought I would revist this thread to post a couple pictures of the slab nuts I purchased from @dgage for anyone interested. I used them on a Denovo Audio 4 cubic foot flatpack with a Dayton UM18 driver. I bought 30 of em total, 10 for this kit, 10 for the next kit (same one) leaving enough for another sub at a later date. They got shipped super quick and worked super easy. I'd HIGHLY suggest em, especially for the cheap cost.

I figured I should be able to swap drivers in and out to my hearts content and also really secure them down too.



Slab Nuts mounted to the back of the baffle.




I've also used furniture inserts (as shown in the pictures I posted earlier in the thread, and here again to save time). I used those on my Martycube (pictured below) as well as on the VBSS enclosure I'm working on.





PS I like the slab nuts better.
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post #69 of 83 Old 11-02-2016, 01:17 PM
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I have a bunch of slab nuts and socket head bolts if anyone needs any.

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post #70 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 12:59 AM
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You all are overthinking it. Wood screws are very strong in 1 1/2" MDF. If you want to remove and reinstall the wood screw, you should run the screw in reverse till it drops into the old thread that was originally cut and then reinstall. The clamping force doesn't need to be that much to hold a speaker in either. I have a feeling people are over driving the wood screws which is causing the holes to strip out or the head of the screw to break.

I use 1 3/4 drywall screws. I hold a piece of wood over the driver so that I don't slip and run my bit into the driver. Pre drilling with the proper drill bit helps prevent this. Pan head wood screws are the best but you can't run out to the store and get them generally.

The force of a large sub isn't nearly enough to pull a set of dry wall screws out. The coarse thread work better if you can get a hold of them.
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post #71 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Rodriguez View Post
You all are overthinking it.
Well this is AVS... what do you expect.

Plus an extra 10 bucks and 10 minutes of time to mount the slab nuts when your building the box isn't really that big a deal.

Is it overkill... ABSOLUTELY... Is 99.99% of what we talk about on this forum overkill to 99.99% of the population..... ABSOLUTELY!
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post #72 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Well this is AVS... what do you expect.

Plus an extra 10 bucks and 10 minutes of time to mount the slab nuts when your building the box isn't really that big a deal.

Is it overkill... ABSOLUTELY... Is 99.99% of what we talk about on this forum overkill to 99.99% of the population..... ABSOLUTELY!
Not to mention the fact that extra 10 min & 10 bucks will give an invaluable piece of mind to the diy'er that may have to/want to change out drivers whenever the latest flavor of the month comes out.

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post #73 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1st Cav View Post
Not to mention the fact that extra 10 min & 10 bucks will give an invaluable piece of mind to the diy'er that may have to/want to change out drivers whenever the latest flavor of the month comes out.

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Yup, that was my thought, especially since I keep waffling on going with a HST driver at some point, and that beast is heavy at 75lbs.

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post #74 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 07:25 AM
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I use these exclusively now. Of course I also quit using MDF completely.


https://www.parts-express.com/m5-x-3...0-pcs--081-312
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post #75 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Yup, that was my thought, especially since I keep waffling on going with a HST driver at some point, and that beast is heavy at 75lbs.
As much as I'm usually for overkill I don't know that the size and hole patterns are the same from driver to driver. YMMV.
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post #76 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 07:54 AM
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As much as I'm usually for overkill I don't know that the size and hole patterns are the same from driver to driver. YMMV.
You are 100% correct but IIRC the PE site has the CAD drawings of the UM18 and I think Nick has emailed similar to folks on his HST in the past....

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post #77 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 12:33 PM
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Not sure why people think it is overkill to use any type of threaded option. Wood screws work perfectly fine, don't think many argue that it isn't. But I think most of us using inserts, tnuts, whatever..... simply like this better. I would much rather install my drivers using an allen wrench rather than a screw driver or drill. You don't have to use pressure to keep the fastener head from stripping. It's pleasurable to simply thread the bolts in and be able to torque them down properly.
A member on this site cnc'd these fasteners for me. 16 of them for the two FTW-21's I bought. By far the best method I've used so far. Used 1.25" wood screw to anchor the blocks in place, then used silicone to cover the screw heads and seal the mounting hole. The bolts I got only go about 3/4 of the way into the block so the silicone will simply prevent any air leaks. Very stout setup.

















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post #78 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 02:15 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
I use these exclusively now. Of course I also quit using MDF completely.
https://www.parts-express.com/m5-x-3...0-pcs--081-312
Those are nice, so are these:
http://www.speakerhardware.com/recex...rew-1-12x8.php
Quote:
As much as I'm usually for overkill I don't know that the size and hole patterns are the same from driver to driver.
+1. With screws if the hole pattern is different just rotate the new driver, drill new pilots and you're good to go.
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post #79 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 02:23 PM
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post #80 of 83 Old 11-03-2016, 03:20 PM
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Yup screws. Well technically these are all screws but pointy screws. The t nuts and slabs are a pain and can fail to line up perfectly and make it annoying to install. Also sometimes if not perfectly aligned they come loose inside while partially threaded and then it really sucks.

Edit - just drill the right size hole, and use some finesse. As mentioned you can reuse the same holes with just a small amount of care.

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post #81 of 83 Old 11-04-2016, 11:05 AM
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I overkilled it on the last build, but the subs are downfiring so wanted the extra insurance. Used the upgraded t-nuts from PE, and extra BB ply blocks for them to bite into. Added #8 screws on each side of the T-nuts and epoxy to prevent slip.

Glued and screwed the blocks into the inside of the cabinets with drywall screws and used bolts and washers to line the blocks up properly and secure until the glue was dry. Then later used 1/4-20 SS socket cap threaded screws for the drivers.

One thing I did to ensure the holes lined up is I used each driver that was going into it's box as a guide, and also marked the orientation of the driver on the box so the hole on the driver used to mark would hit the same hole on the box when mounting the driver later. Had no problems with misalignment.






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post #82 of 83 Old 01-06-2018, 08:09 AM
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Can someone explain to me how you install the slab nuts? All the pictures are gone because photobucket... Do you mount them from the inside just like you would t nuts?

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post #83 of 83 Old 01-06-2018, 09:57 AM
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What fasteners are you using for big drivers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NINaudio View Post
Can someone explain to me how you install the slab nuts? All the pictures are gone because photobucket... Do you mount them from the inside just like you would t nuts?





This pictures is from the inside of the baffle



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)

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