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post #31 of 54 Old 04-03-2016, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriscoDTM View Post
Here is my technique to align the veneer - five dowels go down like this.



Then the veneer is placed and aligned - in this case I have roughly 0.5" or so extra. Once aligned the dowel at the end comes out and the last 5mm or so of veneer is pressed into the MDF.





Then the sheet is peeled back so the other dowels can come out, and then I work the veneer down roughly 1" at a time with the scraper.





And finished:



Even after flush trimming with the router, you need to clean up the edges with a sharp razor.

I used wax paper instead of dowels, worked great for me.
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post #32 of 54 Old 04-03-2016, 04:34 PM
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Looking great thus far! Plans for finishing them?

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post #33 of 54 Old 04-03-2016, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post
I used wax paper instead of dowels, worked great for me.
thanks that sounds like it must work well. The dowels were suggested by a local colleague, and they work but they do stick to the cement a tiny bit. Another colleague said he used old window blinds as spacers.

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post #34 of 54 Old 04-03-2016, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking great thus far! Plans for finishing them?

thanks they will be finished to match the 1099s - 5 coats of tung oil on the veneer possibly followed by beeswax. The baffles and other hidden surfaces will get painted.
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post #35 of 54 Old 04-03-2016, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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That is it for the veneer for now. I will line them with mattress topper tonight. I realize that I forgot to paint the port, and it might be easier to relocate it. Not sure.

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post #36 of 54 Old 04-17-2016, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Things have slowed down a bit, but I cut, trimmed and rounded some baffles today. Hopefully I can finish the final prep for paint within the next week.

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post #37 of 54 Old 04-22-2016, 11:12 AM
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What are the dimensions of the towers?
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post #38 of 54 Old 04-22-2016, 10:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadci View Post
What are the dimensions of the towers?
13.25"x12.5"x41", made from 3/4" HD handy panels

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post #39 of 54 Old 04-23-2016, 05:43 AM
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Thanks.
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post #40 of 54 Old 05-01-2016, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I could use some woodworking help - I have a gap roughly 1/32"-1/16" between the baffle (will be painted) and top panel (veneered) that I hadn't noticed before on one of the tower surrounds, and I need to decide how best to handle it. I couldn't get a good photo to capture it. With my 1099s I recall that the top and bottom pieces sat proud and I have sanded them with a block before I put the veneer on but it took a bit of of time and was difficult because I was sanding the edge. Now the side panels are proud, so I would need to sand them and it seems very impractical because I don't want to accidentally damage the edge of the veneer, so I'm wondering if it would be better to try to mix some sawdust and glue to sand flat, which seems bit easier in some ways but brings a different set of risks. Or should try to just go heavy on the glue to fill it and then paint over it? Alternatively I have some fill-stick from my kitchen cabinets and hardwood floors that I could use to try to fill it, but that seems pretty tough because the gap is so small. Suggestions?

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post #41 of 54 Old 05-01-2016, 03:27 PM
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Use the fill stick, sounds like the gap is small enough you'll be the only one who notices. I wouldn't take a chance or all the effort you put in to this point for that. I think the stick will cover better than sawdust and glue. If your not sure on the color easy enough to buy multi color kits. They look awesome, great job
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post #42 of 54 Old 05-02-2016, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks For the input. A WAF attack has occurred, and the standard rear surround Volt 8 might need to be replaced with Volt 6s due to the size and placement. Thankfully I have enough veneer left to complete them. This time I opted for a flatpack to cut the assembly time.

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post #43 of 54 Old 05-30-2016, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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After a little break I am back at it

Cleaning the veneer with mineral spirits:



And removing the small edge and glue residue with mineral spirits and a razor blade:




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post #44 of 54 Old 05-30-2016, 09:42 AM
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Nice work & I love the idea of 10XL towers you got me thinking now..Subbed.

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post #45 of 54 Old 05-30-2016, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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And first coat of oil is on:


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post #46 of 54 Old 05-30-2016, 01:42 PM
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After hearing my Volt10-LXs in the small, sealed angled box that DIYSG sells (and been satisfied, but not blown away by sub-100Hz response), I've always wondered what they could do in a larger, ported box. Not that I could use larger, ported boxes for my surrounds, but the curiosity is still there.

When I was bench-testing them, I was using the built-in crossover on a Crown 1500XLS amp. Had it set at around 85Hz or whatever the closest setting was and noticed the driver cone not moving much at all, even with considerable db output. So I thought "there's a lot more low-end left in this thing" so I lowered the crossover point to 63Hz, but there was really no noticeable increase in low-end output.

The driver simply can't do more low-end in a .5cf sealed box. Looking forward to your results and you do great veneer work, BTW!
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post #47 of 54 Old 05-30-2016, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post
After hearing my Volt10-LXs in the small, sealed angled box that DIYSG sells (and been satisfied, but not blown away by sub-100Hz response), I've always wondered what they could do in a larger, ported box. Not that I could use larger, ported boxes for my surrounds, but the curiosity is still there.

When I was bench-testing them, I was using the built-in crossover on a Crown 1500XLS amp. Had it set at around 85Hz or whatever the closest setting was and noticed the driver cone not moving much at all, even with considerable db output. So I thought "there's a lot more low-end left in this thing" so I lowered the crossover point to 63Hz, but there was really no noticeable increase in low-end output.

The driver simply can't do more low-end in a .5cf sealed box. Looking forward to your results and you do great veneer work, BTW!
So what frequency would you cross them over at in the 0.5cf box?

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post #48 of 54 Old 05-31-2016, 03:07 AM
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I am planning on going with 80Hz @ 12/db. I'm pretty sure my Denon X4000 AVR has a 12db/oct crossover slope (not sure if it's selectable or fixed). Not sure how much output I'll actually get @80Hz, but it sure didn't hurt/strain the 10" drivers at all with them crossed over lower than that, playing at volumes I would call "loud."


BTW, my HT is about 80% complete, currently. I've not actually used the Volt10 LXs as surrounds yet, only bench-tested them. Full disclosure there.
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post #49 of 54 Old 05-31-2016, 05:23 AM
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I heard this same 10" woofer paired with two 10" passive radiators, without sub, from a cheap low power CD-receiver. Plenty of bass for music!!

It's the room, stupid!
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post #50 of 54 Old 05-31-2016, 05:29 AM
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I heard this same 10" woofer paired with two 10" passive radiators, without sub, from a cheap low power CD-receiver. Plenty of bass for music!!
What kinda cab they was in ?

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post #51 of 54 Old 06-12-2016, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Second coat of paint on the 8s and 10s - the 6s I bought later are glued and ready to veneer. The four overheads are still sitting in storage. I need to run new wires, which will be a project by itself. The 10s still need bases which I will at some point, but hopefully I will get these turned on later today.



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post #52 of 54 Old 06-12-2016, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
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post #53 of 54 Old 06-13-2016, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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And the side 10s are ready to test - The bases are still missing

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post #54 of 54 Old 06-14-2016, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pletwals View Post
I heard this same 10" woofer paired with two 10" passive radiators, without sub, from a cheap low power CD-receiver. Plenty of bass for music!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
What kinda cab they was in ?
Sorry for the late reply.

It is about 90 x 35 x 28 cm (PR-coaxial-PR) external using 30 mm MDF. About 53 liters internal (1.9 cuft). I believe the 10" PR are Dayton.

It's the room, stupid!
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