Official SpeakerPower amplifier thread - Page 20 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #571 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by NOLAGT View Post
No I stuck with the sp1-4000 becasue I didn't want to HAVE to switch to 240v and the UMs are getting enough power...but I know in the back of my mind I have room to grow if need be. I may be incorporating some of those $29 JBL 12s into the system too but I have other 20 amp power sources in the room. I don't know that I will have the 12s at the sofa anyway...


Id love to know what that sp1-4000 does at 1ohm?
No problem, the sp1-4000 is 120V only, dont feed it 240V or you'll let the magic smoke out.

For the sp1-4000 a 30A 120V circuit should be sufficient, if you find a 20A is tripping.

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post #572 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Pradeep2 View Post
No problem, the sp1-4000 is 120V only, dont feed it 240V or you'll let the magic smoke out.

For the sp1-4000 a 30A 120V circuit should be sufficient, if you find a 20A is tripping.

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Ahh good point I didn't think about the amp being able to take 240v. I cant just switch to a 30amp from a 20 amp tho right? Doesn't the wire have to be change too?
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post #573 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 09:55 AM
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Ahh good point I didn't think about the amp being able to take 240v. I cant just switch to a 30amp from a 20 amp tho right? Doesn't the wire have to be change too?
Unless the electrician paid a lot of extra money on the wiring (for no real reason at the time), you can not just swap out your 20A breaker for a 30A. Think of the breaker as saying "This is how much current the wires and such are prepared to carry before they risk fire/equipment damage, so I'll flip if it exceeds that current"

Romex that's 30A friendly isn't cheap last I checked, either =(
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post #574 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 10:00 AM
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I’ve run an SP2-8000 off of a 20A circuit that had other items plugged into it so you shouldn’t have any problems with the SP1-4000 unless you have a lot plugged into the same circuit.

And the SpeakerPower plate amps were designed to be placed in a sub box where there is some air movement. So if you place it into a box, put a quiet fan in the box along with an inlet and outlet for air to move.

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post #575 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 10:01 AM
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Unless the electrician paid a lot of extra money on the wiring (for no real reason at the time), you can not just swap out your 20A breaker for a 30A. Think of the breaker as saying "This is how much current the wires and such are prepared to carry before they risk fire/equipment damage, so I'll flip if it exceeds that current"

Romex that's 30A friendly isn't cheap last I checked, either =(



Yea I didnt think I could switch it like that either. I am glad they put 20amp throughout the house...I thought I had 15amp there. I had them run some dedicated 20 amps but under the sofa was not one of those spots.
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post #576 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 10:03 AM
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I’ve run an SP2-8000 off of a 20A circuit that had other items plugged into it so you shouldn’t have any problems with the SP1-4000 unless you have a lot plugged into the same circuit.

And the SpeakerPower plate amps were designed to be placed in a sub box where there is some air movement. So if you place it into a box, put a quiet fan in the box along with an inlet and outlet for air to move.

I should have been more specific...I wont put it in a box that is airtight...really just something sturdy to protect it.
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post #577 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 10:04 AM
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Yea I didnt think I could switch it like that either. I am glad they put 20amp throughout the house...I thought I had 15amp there. I had them run some dedicated 20 amps but under the sofa was not one of those spots.
Yeah... It happens. My house is from the 50s. I'm lucky if I have a dedicated circuit for anything but my dryer.
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post #578 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 10:51 AM
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Ahh good point I didn't think about the amp being able to take 240v. I cant just switch to a 30amp from a 20 amp tho right? Doesn't the wire have to be change too?
Will need 10 gauge wire for 30A

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post #579 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 12:25 PM
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I should have been more specific...I wont put it in a box that is airtight...really just something sturdy to protect it.
Understand, but it needs some airflow. When they put a pair of SP1-4000 modules in a rack mount chassis to make the SP2-8000, they also include a thermally operated fan, which turns on when the amps get hot. So you’ll need to come up with a similar setup to ensure your SP1-4000 amp will have a long life. And even if you know or plan this, I wanted it down on “paper” for others to read in the future. Enjoy the system when you’re able to kick the wife out long enough to enjoy. Spa day is popular as it is synonymous with sub day.
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post #580 of 679 Old 12-31-2018, 03:51 PM
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I should have been more specific...I wont put it in a box that is airtight...really just something sturdy to protect it.
Understand, but it needs some airflow. When they put a pair of SP1-4000 modules in a rack mount chassis to make the SP2-8000, they also include a thermally operated fan, which turns on when the amps get hot. So you’ll need to come up with a similar setup to ensure your SP1-4000 amp will have a long life. And even if you know or plan this, I wanted it down on “paper” for others to read in the future. Enjoy the system when you’re able to kick the wife out long enough to enjoy. Spa day is popular as it is synonymous with sub day. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
I got to pump them for a while today. Still not tuned on the settings from the last subs. These things slam...could not stop smiling lol. I know there are some holes in the frequency range but it was quite enjoyable shaking everything.
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post #581 of 679 Old 01-02-2019, 02:59 PM
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how do you hook subs to the plate amps? on bash amps and Dayton audio amps, you have a red and black wire coming from the amp to connect your whatever gauge wire hooked up to your sub..... I don't see any red or black wires coming from the plate amps soooooooooooooooooo?????..........
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post #582 of 679 Old 01-02-2019, 03:16 PM
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how do you hook subs to the plate amps? on bash amps and Dayton audio amps, you have a red and black wire coming from the amp to connect your whatever gauge wire hooked up to your sub..... I don't see any red or black wires coming from the plate amps soooooooooooooooooo?????..........
So there's two options with the 2400, 4000 and 6000 plates, if planning to use it as an external unit there's the NL4 Speakon connector (two pairs of red and black, connected in parallel to the amp). On the inside of the plate amp the output is from a Molex connector, which has wire going from it to spades, and then red and black wire.

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post #583 of 679 Old 01-02-2019, 03:20 PM
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I got to pump them for a while today. Still not tuned on the settings from the last subs. These things slam...could not stop smiling lol. I know there are some holes in the frequency range but it was quite enjoyable shaking everything.
When that Christmas tree light string is dimmed to total darkness......you'll know you are getting close So you haven't boosted with a low shelf yet?

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post #584 of 679 Old 01-02-2019, 03:31 PM
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Understand, but it needs some airflow. When they put a pair of SP1-4000 modules in a rack mount chassis to make the SP2-8000, they also include a thermally operated fan, which turns on when the amps get hot. So you’ll need to come up with a similar setup to ensure your SP1-4000 amp will have a long life. And even if you know or plan this, I wanted it down on “paper” for others to read in the future. Enjoy the system when you’re able to kick the wife out long enough to enjoy. Spa day is popular as it is synonymous with sub day.
Yes there's quite a difference in the heat sinking of the rack versus the plate amps.

The rack mounts have the 12 mosfets on the back side of the circuit boards mounted to a heatsink, and then fan forced ventilation activated across the heatsinks when you go to extended bursts of power and temp sensors trigger them. I think notnyt mentioned he'd heard his fans three times over the years? There's the home theater firmware where the fans only come on when absolutely necessary and the stock firmware which is presumably more agressive with its fan ramps.

The plate amps have the mosfets mounted to the plate, so the plate becomes the heatsink. The plates would generally be operating in some kind of conditioned airspace, whereas the racks may be sandwiched in a big stack at a music festival for 5 straight days in the scorching desert sun. I don't think we need external fan cooling for the circuit board side of the plate, but certainly an open venting design at least as breathable as the plate rear cover would be wise.

Edit to add: I know I've seen Brian mention that the amp will throttle back well before any danger point for the hardware is reached, i.e. fan failure on a rack model. If it does get too hot I believe it will mute its output until conditions are back within acceptable parameters

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post #585 of 679 Old 01-02-2019, 04:11 PM
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Yes there's quite a difference in the heat sinking of the rack versus the plate amps.

The rack mounts have the 12 mosfets on the back side of the circuit boards mounted to a heatsink, and then fan forced ventilation activated across the heatsinks when you go to extended bursts of power and temp sensors trigger them. I think notnyt mentioned he'd heard his fans three times over the years? There's the home theater firmware where the fans only come on when absolutely necessary and the stock firmware which is presumably more agressive with its fan ramps.

The plate amps have the mosfets mounted to the plate, so the plate becomes the heatsink. The plates would generally be operating in some kind of conditioned airspace, whereas the racks may be sandwiched in a big stack at a music festival for 5 straight days in the scorching desert sun. I don't think we need external fan cooling for the circuit board side of the plate, but certainly an open venting design at least as breathable as the plate rear cover would be wise.

Edit to add: I know I've seen Brian mention that the amp will throttle back well before any danger point for the hardware is reached, i.e. fan failure on a rack model. If it does get too hot I believe it will mute its output until conditions are back within acceptable parameters
I just think about design criteria, which you mentioned as well.

The rack mount amps may be stuck in a rack so it might need some forced cooling and this was part of the design criteria.

On the flip side, the design criteria probably took into account the fact that the plate amp would be cut into an actively used subwoofer cabinet, with a requisite amount of airflow from air moving within the enclosure. So I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with simple passive venting of the HT plate amp because like you say, the aluminum plate is now part of the heat sink. With the previous Pro plate amp, there used to be an actual heatsink on the outside.

And I'd rather keep my expensive equipment out of any danger, way before device protection steps in to prevent catastrophic failure. Not that you're saying that but you know what I mean, better to be safe than sorry. At the very least if there is an issue, warranty work would mean the system is down for several weeks.
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post #586 of 679 Old 01-02-2019, 10:07 PM
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So you haven't boosted with a low shelf yet?
No I have not done anything like that to them yet...or any sub before. I am looking forward to fooling around with things like that.
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post #587 of 679 Old 01-04-2019, 01:35 PM
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Does anyone know when the guys at SpeakerPower will return to work? I had a plate amp repaired under warranty just before Christmas, paid for return shipping but have not heard back and cannot reach them.
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post #588 of 679 Old 01-04-2019, 01:49 PM
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Does anyone know when the guys at SpeakerPower will return to work? I had a plate amp repaired under warranty just before Christmas, paid for return shipping but have not heard back and cannot reach them.
They're back
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post #589 of 679 Old 01-05-2019, 03:23 PM
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Good evening all. Looking at possibly purchasing a pair of SP1-6000s for two sealed boxes of 2-HS24s in each. One amp per box. For wiring and planning purposes, what would the IDEAL rated circuit and breaker be for each? Double 20s or double 15s (40/30 total)? Wire gauge will be commensurate with the rating obviously.

Thx much.




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post #590 of 679 Old 01-05-2019, 03:48 PM
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Good evening all. Looking at possibly purchasing a pair of SP1-6000s for two sealed boxes of 2-HS24s in each. One amp per box. For wiring and planning purposes, what would the IDEAL rated circuit and breaker be for each? Double 20s or double 15s (40/30 total)? Wire gauge will be commensurate with the rating obviously.

Thx much.




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A double pole 240V 20A breaker would be the way to go, I went traditional AVS overkill and used a 240V 30A breaker and 10 gauge wire just to have no doubt at all about input power, very short run from panel so cost difference was just a few bucks.

My sp1-6000 power cord came with an L6-20P plug.

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post #591 of 679 Old 01-05-2019, 07:08 PM
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Good evening all. Looking at possibly purchasing a pair of SP1-6000s for two sealed boxes of 2-HS24s in each. One amp per box. For wiring and planning purposes, what would the IDEAL rated circuit and breaker be for each? Double 20s or double 15s (40/30 total)? Wire gauge will be commensurate with the rating obviously.

Thx much.
Note that you should not use 6,000 watts on a single HS-24. Really a single SP1-6000 should be used to drive a pair of HS-24 sub drivers. Even a single SP1-4000 is a little too much power for a single HS-24 unless you’re careful.

Regarding circuit, I wouldn’t run a 240V circuit unless it was at least rated for 30A since the additional cost is pretty small over a 20A. And a single 240V 30A circuit could run both SP1-6000 amps though of course I’d suggest considering a rack mount SP2-12000 instead.

As comparison, if you went with the 120V SP2-8000, it can run on a 20A circuit.

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post #592 of 679 Old 01-05-2019, 07:12 PM
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One SP1-6000 will power a pair of HS24s. Another SP1-6000 will power an additional pair of HS-24s.




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post #593 of 679 Old 01-05-2019, 08:33 PM
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One SP1-6000 will power a pair of HS24s. Another SP1-6000 will power an additional pair of HS-24s.
You did indeed state that in your original post but I didn't comprehend properly when reading on my phone. Sounds like you might have the makings of a slightly decent bass system. As someone who has more than a little experience moving even a single HS-24 in a single cabinet, have fun moving each dual-HS-24 cabinet. You're probably talking 500+ pounds. Hope you have a forklift handy.
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post #594 of 679 Old 01-05-2019, 10:56 PM
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You did indeed state that in your original post but I didn't comprehend properly when reading on my phone. Sounds like you might have the makings of a slightly decent bass system. As someone who has more than a little experience moving even a single HS-24 in a single cabinet, have fun moving each dual-HS-24 cabinet. You're probably talking 500+ pounds. Hope you have a forklift handy.
Four HS24s and 12kW of SP amp....a good start

I'd build something that size directly on two furniture dollies each to have ease of movement.

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post #595 of 679 Old 01-07-2019, 12:27 PM
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Official SpeakerPower amplifier thread

Updated: SP has been sold, Brian has retired. New ownership in place.


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Last edited by FOHTech; 01-07-2019 at 12:42 PM.
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Updated: SP has been sold, Brian has retired. New ownership in place.


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Some more details on one of their webpages:

http://www.speakerpower.net/about-us.html

"CEO's Message

Welcome,

I am Justin Ryan, CEO of SpeakerPower.  In 2018, I acquired SpeakerPower from its founder, Brian Oppegaard, upon his retirement.  I am very excited to continue the growth and development of SpeakerPower.  As an experienced executive in a variety of industries, and an MIT trained engineer, I know what it takes to develop exciting new products that satisfy the most demanding requirements of customers for their cutting edge products.  With further investment in new products, I plan to build on SpeakerPower's 16 year track record of delivering high quality, powerful, efficient, and intelligent amplifiers.

For OEM manufacturers in Professional and Home Theater markets, SpeakerPower provides the opportunity to have next-generation intelligent amplifiers in your self-powered loudspeaker line. Our complete turn-key approach means that it is as easy for you to install a SpeakerPower amplifier in your cabinet as a woofer, horn or compression driver. With our proven designs, you will be up and running quickly with minimal up-front investment. And our state-of-the-art digital signal processing and power technology will reinforce your image as a technological leader.  With designs from 200 to 12,000 watts, we can meet your most critical needs.

Users of SpeakerPower amplifiers enjoy high power and high efficiency, with intelligence designed to ensure continuous output in the most demanding applications.  Our products are manufactured and supported right here in California.  Our commitment to quality, technological acuity, and steadfast product support means your loudspeakers are powered with confidence. See what we can do for you today.

Justin Ryan
​CEO"

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post #597 of 679 Old 01-07-2019, 01:28 PM
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Updated: SP has been sold, Brian has retired. New ownership in place.

That explains the price increase......not off to a good start.
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post #598 of 679 Old 01-07-2019, 01:37 PM
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Which of the SP plate amps pairs well with the SI HS-24 MKIII 24″ sub? Specs state that this sub can handle 2000w RMS. Does the SP1-2400-HT (2400w/4ohm) provide enough power or would i be better off just getting the SP1-4000-HT (4000w/2ohm). Also, the SI 24" sub comes with either a 1ohm or 2ohm voice coil - I assume the 2ohm coil makes the most sense if driving 1 sub off of 1 plate amp?

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post #599 of 679 Old 01-07-2019, 01:46 PM
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I wish the owner was a fellow technician and just took over. Hmm mixed feelings on this one. I feel this will be still a good amp but is more than likely going to be along the lines of more expensive amps soon.
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post #600 of 679 Old 01-07-2019, 03:25 PM
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Well then, he must feel like they weren't sustainable at last years prices. Over 20% markup, a bit much

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