Amp for dual FTW-21s - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-07-2016, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Amp for dual FTW-21s

I've recently taken the plunge in DIY and will be going to dual FTW-21's in 2ft cubes. It is my understanding that these drivers love power so I was wondering what an ideal choice would be. Keeping in mind that the amp will be in the listening area noise is a little bit of a concern, though I am willing to spend a little bit more on a good amp to treat it as sort of an investment for my audio hobby. I would prefer a single amp that powers both boxes to duals. The below are some amps i've been considering:

Behringer Inuke 6000dsp:
Delivers 2 x 3,000 watts into 4 ohms, 2 x 1,500 watts into 8 ohms

Very well priced, and tons of power, although the power numbers claimed do not match real world testing. I have concerns about the build quality and the noise, though I could try to do a fan mod for it to lessen the sound issue.

Crown XLS2502:
Delivers 2 x 1,200 watts into 2 ohms, 2 x 775 watts into 4 ohms, 2 x 440 watt into 8 ohms

Appears to be significantly more expensive on a cost per watt basis than the Inuke but is supposed to be bullet proof reliable. Maybe not enough power for dual 21's, and i'm not sure if the rumors about a 12db/octave rolloff after 20hz are true or not, because that would be a deal breaker.

Crown XTi 4002:
Delivers 2 x 1,600 watts into 2 ohms, 2 x 1200 watts into 4 ohms, 2 x 650 watts into 8 ohms

Creeping up in price. Should be reliable and hopefully fairly quiet. Is there a good reason not to get this one?

Cerwin Vega CV5000:
Delivers 2 x 2,500 watts into 2 ohms, 2 x 1800 watts into 4 ohms, 2 x 1100 watts into 8 ohms

Very heavy and of the non-class D variety. Possibly loud and inefficient.

Other notable mentions I know very little about would be Peavey ipr7500 or crest 7.5. Or I could damn the budget and bankrupt myself with a speaker power amp.

Am I overthinking this?
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post #2 of 11 Old 06-07-2016, 01:36 PM
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Hey Magibeg! You are not over-thinking this. I just went through the same question and researched and obsessed for months. I'm now using an iNuke 6000DSP with my UXL 18s.


Let me summarize the conclusions I reached for you!


iNuke 6000DSP - puts out about 1400 watts per channel verified at 4 ohms. Realistically, you cannot get more power out of a single outlet. Has an excellent variety of adjustable filters (PEQ, LP, HP, etc.) built right in. Supposed to be really noisy, but there was a redesign and re-engineering in Q2 2015 that reduced heat and noise. Mine is 5.5 feet away and much less intrusive than my PS4. Fan mods are easily done and several are well-documented on this forum and others. There are claims of a high pass, but I get great excursion down to 2 hz. Inexpensive. Looks like donkey balls.


Crown, any- I considered Crown for a long time. Supposed to be very reliable, fairly quiet, look fine. I discontinued considering them when I read several forums discussing a possible high-pass on Crown amps. In my research, I came across a forum where an actual Crown engineer stated that every one of their pro amps has a built in high pass at 20 hz. Since you, also, are doing sealed subs, STAY AWAY. Ported would be fine, since you want ULF rolloff anyway. It's really too bad; good specs, good tests, good looks and good price.


Cerwin Vega - Wow, a brute of an amp, with pretty dreamy ULF response, and good looks. Oops, wait a minute, Class AB?!? Power drain is absolutely huge for this one. Definitely a dedicated outlet, and probably a dedicated air conditioner sue to all the excess heat at any volume level. My room was too small and too warm year-round to consider this one. Outside the listening area, with a dedicated power outlet, this thing would be a monster. Not too expensive compared to the iNuke, even though you're getting about 50 lbs more amp.


Speaker Power - Probably the only way you're going to get flat to 5 hz if your signal chain allows it. Would have absolutely shattered my (rather tenuous) budget. Most of them are lookers, too.


Another factor you have to consider is that the iNuke has the built-in DSP, otherwise, with any of the other choices you need to add a DSP at additional cost and complexity. Lots of people have noise or ground issues trying to incorporate a miniDSP for example.


Good luck with your research and your project! I'll definitely be following for pics and giggles.
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-07-2016, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm glad i'm not the only one who has been going crazy with these same questions. Another possibility I was considering is a sanway FP14000 clone but i'm a little bit scared it might burn down the house. I still need to read through the clone thread before i approve or rule it out. The iNuke is sounding increasingly promising though. I suppose it's popular for a reason!
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-07-2016, 05:45 PM
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If you want to save money, get the inuke6000DSP.

For the ~$1000 range, I'd strongly recommend a FP14k. They won't burn your house down, they are built better than the Behringer amps inside, if anything is gonna burn your house down it will be behringer. The FP14k is more efficient than the Class-H QSC/Cerwin/Crest/Crown 5000 equivalents.

Once you get into the $2k range you might as well go SpeakerPower.

I would not recommend the XTI 4k, it's a horrible amp. The XTI 6k and iTech's are at least 4x better, heck even an EP4000 is better than the XTI by at least 20%.
The iTech's are -3db @ 6.5hz FYI... similar to the rolloff of the FP10k.

You probably don't have the budget for Powersoft K/X, or iTech's or Gruppen's, so I guess there is no point talking about them...

I would recommend either the nu6000DSP, or two bridged CC-5500's, or just pony up and go with a SpeakerPower 12k.
The 21's love their power, they need a solid 2kW RMS each to really get them moving, under the right conditions they can soak up bursts of 4kW, each.

You'll need a 20A or 30A breaker if you want to get the most out of them... a 15A breaker won't get the job done (it will do what it can...)
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Last edited by BassThatHz; 06-07-2016 at 05:49 PM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 06-07-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
If you want to save money, get the inuke6000DSP.

For the ~$1000 range, I'd strongly recommend a FP14k. They won't burn your house down, they are built better than the Behringer amps inside, if anything is gonna burn your house down it will be behringer. The FP14k is more efficient than the Class-H QSC/Cerwin/Crest/Crown 5000 equivalents.

Once you get into the $2k range you might as well go SpeakerPower.

I would not recommend the XTI 4k, it's a horrible amp. The XTI 6k and iTech's are at least 4x better, heck even an EP4000 is better than the XTI by at least 20%.
The iTech's are -3db @ 6.5hz FYI... similar to the rolloff of the FP10k.

You probably don't have the budget for Powersoft K/X, or iTech's or Gruppen's, so I guess there is no point talking about them...

I would recommend either the nu6000DSP, or two bridged CC-5500's, or just pony up and go with a SpeakerPower 12k.
The 21's love their power, they need a solid 2kW RMS each to really get them moving, under the right conditions they can soak up bursts of 4kW, each.

You'll need a 20A or 30A breaker if you want to get the most out of them... a 15A breaker won't get the job done (it will do what it can...)
Bth, I agree with the fp14k! @Magibeg is ultimately planning for 4 x ftw21'... Do you feel 2xftw21 per channel at 2 ohms would be enough?
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post #6 of 11 Old 06-07-2016, 10:19 PM
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I'd personally go with the fp14 clone. Though I do have 8 of them, they are pretty much as good as you'll get for the money.

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post #7 of 11 Old 06-07-2016, 11:19 PM
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I'd personally go with the fp14 clone. Though I do have 8 of them, they are pretty much as good as you'll get for the money.
I ran a bridged Inuke 3000dsp into one ftw-21 for a year. It worked fairly decent. I noticed that the fp14000 with a minidisc that replaced the Inuke did dig deeper and can sustain a bit more power for longer. It is on its own 20 amp circuit and I have never had it pop.
For the money the inukes are great. I've read that the 6000 can put out 1800 watts at 20hz for about a 1/2 second before it cuts back. Search for the detailed bench test on another site.
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post #8 of 11 Old 06-08-2016, 05:37 AM
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I'd personally go with the fp14 clone. Though I do have 8 of them, they are pretty much as good as you'll get for the money.
n8**, do you have an fp14k bridged per ftw21?! I'm currently considering 4 x hst18's and 4 x UXL18's per fp14000 running 2ohms/ch for my LLT setup. Would I be short changing myself?

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post #9 of 11 Old 06-08-2016, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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For those of you with the FP14K's, there hasn't been any reliability issues has there? Also some slight concern with fan loudness. Other then that it sounds like the FP14K might be the way to go.
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post #10 of 11 Old 06-08-2016, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by lz7j View Post
n8**, do you have an fp14k bridged per ftw21?! I'm currently considering 4 x hst18's and 4 x UXL18's per fp14000 running 2ohms/ch for my LLT setup. Would I be short changing myself?

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No you'd blow them bridged lol
I use 1 channel per driver. When I get my neo 24s from Mark, the Willie bridged per driver

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post #11 of 11 Old 06-08-2016, 07:29 AM
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Anecdotally, I don't the clones aren't nearly as reliable as Behringers, considering the huge number of iNukes that forum members have bought compared to the relatively small number of clones. And you're stuck with having to troubleshoot it yourself with advice from a guy in China who may or may not ship you replacement parts that you then have to install yourself.

If you don't want that risk, don't buy a clone. If you're okay with that, clones seem to be the cheapest way to get more power than a NU6000.
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