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post #91 of 276 Old 09-22-2016, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Are you using any eq on your subs between 60-100hz?

I'd leave the phase flipped because you are getting more output. We just need to address dips. You can do that by adjusting the sub distance in the avr while playing pink noise in the rta until the dip smooths out at your existing crossover.

Or I'm tempted to say to bump your crossover to 120hz so your subs aren't interfered so much with the mains. Then adjust the sub distance in the avr until it's smoothly integrated.
OK, this is an explanation I can follow along with. I still don't think it will help my current issue, but its something that makes enough sense to me to try and work with. That is not a dig at what anyone has said in here AT ALL. This is just an explanation that makes more sense to me, and could also possibly explain why I saw no benefit from adjusting delay the first time around.

I am not positive when I can try and do this. Maybe Sunday, or somewhat on Saturday. I will mess with this first, and see where it gets me and report back.


Sean


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post #92 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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As you would expect at this point, I can't stop thinking about this. This morning I was looking at some of the charts, and I am wondering why I am seeing a bigger hump in the low end than I did when I initially calibrated everything. Is that from break in, which I have seen people say is a thing just as much as I have seen people say its not a thing. Regardless I need to go though the whole calibration process again. I really should get my front speakers so I am calibrating with the speakers that are going to stay down there.


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post #93 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Broke EF View Post
As you would expect at this point, I can't stop thinking about this. This morning I was looking at some of the charts, and I am wondering why I am seeing a bigger hump in the low end than I did when I initially calibrated everything. Is that from break in, which I have seen people say is a thing just as much as I have seen people say its not a thing. Regardless I need to go though the whole calibration process again. I really should get my front speakers so I am calibrating with the speakers that are going to stay down there.


Sean
First things first...you really need to post all graphs with the Freq. Axis set to Logarithmic. It is quite difficult to compare graphs with different frequency axes.

Secondly, please post your MDAT. You can ZIP it and attach it to your post (if the file size isn't too large), or use a file sharing site such as Dropbox.
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post #94 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 09:55 AM
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OK, I do not agree that flipping the phase helped. If you look at the graphs side by side (although they have differing limits on the left side...one is 5dB steps and one is 10dB steps, please try to keep this consistent in the future at 5dB) the overall output looks to be exactly the same, but when you flip the phase you are getting a larger dip from 60-100hz. With the phase at 0 you have two smaller dips at 75hz and 90hz. I would stay with 0.

I overlayed the graphs you made from that song...they look to be very, very similar until you get above 60hz. From 60-150hz you are down about 5-8dB. This is apparently the problem area and it corresponds to where you have some problems in the Mains+Subs graph. Have you tried the sub distance tweak to try to alleviate those dips from 70-100hz??

You also have a rise of of almost +12dB from 25hz to 10hz. This is overemphasizing the ULF and masking the upper frequencies. If you could get that ULF flatter, I believe the entire system will sound much better (not so "bloated" in the ULF).
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post #95 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
OK, I do not agree that flipping the phase helped. If you look at the graphs side by side (although they have differing limits on the left side...one is 5dB steps and one is 10dB steps, please try to keep this consistent in the future at 5dB) the overall output looks to be exactly the same, but when you flip the phase you are getting a larger dip from 60-100hz. With the phase at 0 you have two smaller dips at 75hz and 90hz. I would stay with 0.

I overlayed the graphs you made from that song...they look to be very, very similar until you get above 60hz. From 60-150hz you are down about 5-8dB. This is apparently the problem area and it corresponds to where you have some problems in the Mains+Subs graph. Have you tried the sub distance tweak to try to alleviate those dips from 70-100hz??

You also have a rise of of almost +12dB from 25hz to 10hz. This is overemphasizing the ULF and masking the upper frequencies. If you could get that ULF flatter, I believe the entire system will sound much better (not so "bloated" in the ULF).
Alan,

It's hard sometimes to know exactly what we are hearing with bass frequencies. I have been assuming that the problem was that the OP was not hearing very much mid-bass, particularly once the below 40Hz frequencies were de-emphasized with most music. But, if the sub 25Hz frequencies are over-emphasized with movies, then that would accentuate the relatively weaker mid-bass that he seems to be hearing in music, even more than it would be accented with a flatter frequency response.

Where I am going with this, is that if he is able to flatten-out the deep bass, his first reaction might not be positive, because he is used to that more bloated deep bass for movies. Taking it away will make his bass sound weaker. But, long-term, as he gets used to flatter bass across the board, it could also help a little bit with music. I wondered earlier about whether some of the good bass sound, from the little system he is also using, might be distortion. With bass, as you know, more isn't always better, and distortion (not so much clipping as overemphasized frequencies) can sometimes masquerade as more.

Sort of rambling there, but it would be interesting to smooth out the deep bass and find out whether he did, or didn't, like the resulting sound.

Regards,
Mike

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post #96 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 11:00 AM
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Mike,

Yeah, thinking about this some more...since the OP said that he can't get satisfying bass with music even with everything maxed out, I'm starting to think there is no way to diagnose his issues from a distance. If it was an issue with the bass above 40hz being weaker than the ULF, he should be able to get it sounding good with music with the "max everything" settings.


Wish I lived closer...my curiosity as to what is going on with his system is driving me nuts!


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post #97 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
First things first...you really need to post all graphs with the Freq. Axis set to Logarithmic. It is quite difficult to compare graphs with different frequency axes.

Secondly, please post your MDAT. You can ZIP it and attach it to your post (if the file size isn't too large), or use a file sharing site such as Dropbox.
OK, which is which?! Call me dumb, but I don't know which is which and I don't see anything that says which one you are looking at.

I can try and post it today if I have time after work, or maybe later tonight.

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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
OK, I do not agree that flipping the phase helped. If you look at the graphs side by side (although they have differing limits on the left side...one is 5dB steps and one is 10dB steps, please try to keep this consistent in the future at 5dB) the overall output looks to be exactly the same, but when you flip the phase you are getting a larger dip from 60-100hz. With the phase at 0 you have two smaller dips at 75hz and 90hz. I would stay with 0.

I overlayed the graphs you made from that song...they look to be very, very similar until you get above 60hz. From 60-150hz you are down about 5-8dB. This is apparently the problem area and it corresponds to where you have some problems in the Mains+Subs graph. Have you tried the sub distance tweak to try to alleviate those dips from 70-100hz??

You also have a rise of of almost +12dB from 25hz to 10hz. This is overemphasizing the ULF and masking the upper frequencies. If you could get that ULF flatter, I believe the entire system will sound much better (not so "bloated" in the ULF).
I understand they are different (though I didn't change any settings, so that's weird) but I did overlay them which puts them on the same scale. Flipping the phase gives me a couple DB in the lower range (for the most part) and moves my dip to the left from what I can see. To me when I did this the first time the very slight bump wasn't worth moving the dip lower in the frequency, so I left them at 0.

You need to keep in mind that the computer system was full range, and the one in the room was subs only. Also, you are comparing a single 5.25" driver in a ported box (I think the tune is around 30-40htz) and a 68 watt amp, compared to four 12" drivers in ported boxes (tuned to ~19htz) wth a 3,000 watt amp. To me there should be no way they are even in the same ball park with each other. I know you guys are concerned with my over 80htz response, and I am too, but that is NOT the range that is lacking when I say there is no bass. You can see most of the songs I am testing (that I know to "bump") focus in the 30-50 range. The example song there has those big peaks at about 45htz and there is a noticeable difference between the two systems as far as how much bass there is.

That raise from ~25 down to Xhtz wasn't there when I set the subs up initially. I would guess at this point I am a bit used to it, but I dialed them in much flatter at first. That is why I asked about it wondering if that was the subs "breaking in". I plan on starting from scratch and going for flat again which was always my goal. I need to decide if I want to do it now, or wait until I replace my LCR speakers though.

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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Alan,

It's hard sometimes to know exactly what we are hearing with bass frequencies. I have been assuming that the problem was that the OP was not hearing very much mid-bass, particularly once the below 40Hz frequencies were de-emphasized with most music. But, if the sub 25Hz frequencies are over-emphasized with movies, then that would accentuate the relatively weaker mid-bass that he seems to be hearing in music, even more than it would be accented with a flatter frequency response.

Where I am going with this, is that if he is able to flatten-out the deep bass, his first reaction might not be positive, because he is used to that more bloated deep bass for movies. Taking it away will make his bass sound weaker. But, long-term, as he gets used to flatter bass across the board, it could also help a little bit with music. I wondered earlier about whether some of the good bass sound, from the little system he is also using, might be distortion. With bass, as you know, more isn't always better, and distortion (not so much clipping as overemphasized frequencies) can sometimes masquerade as more.

Sort of rambling there, but it would be interesting to smooth out the deep bass and find out whether he did, or didn't, like the resulting sound.

Regards,
Mike
As I said I do need to re-flatten my response, and see what it does. What I really cannot understand is lets pick a frequency, say 40htz. You can see in my sweeps yesterday both with and without the mains I am about 104db. If you look at any of my REW measurements though I am only seeing ~95db. So if the system is capable of playing the frequency at that level, why isn't it? Additionally, even if I turn up the settings it will still struggle to get the same SPL that it does with my "standard" settings.

I think I just need more bass in my life.


Sean
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post #98 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Mike,

Yeah, thinking about this some more...since the OP said that he can't get satisfying bass with music even with everything maxed out, I'm starting to think there is no way to diagnose his issues from a distance. If it was an issue with the bass above 40hz being weaker than the ULF, he should be able to get it sounding good with music with the "max everything" settings.


Wish I lived closer...my curiosity as to what is going on with his system is driving me nuts!


THIS IS WHAT I AM SAYING!!!! I cant get to "movie levels" of bass even with my stuff turned WAY up, and that does not compute in my head.

I wish you lived closer too, this is diving ME nuts!!! I wasn't even that concerned with it, but I was like "Eh, Ill throw it up on AVS and see whats going on" Now my wife knows more about bass than anyone working at a best buy


Sean
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post #99 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 11:39 AM
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A pic of the room would be a big help. MBM may also be an option.
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post #100 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 11:50 AM
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OK, which is which?! Call me dumb, but I don't know which is which and I don't see anything that says which one you are looking at.
I totally labeled this wrong...should say "VERTICAL" scale.




Quote:
I understand they are different (though I didn't change any settings, so that's weird) but I did overlay them which puts them on the same scale.
But the two overlays of "Phase 0" and "Phase 180" do not have the same scale.

I have overlayed and scaled them here so that they match. If you flip back and forth between the two, you can see that with the phase at 180 you are losing about 1-2dB from 20-40hz (no big deal) and about 18dB at 65hz or so. Phase at 180 should sound significantly weaker in the lower mid-bass. I think if you leave the phase at 0 and do the distance tweak, you could probably get that area from 50-100hz at least a bit flatter.






The reason your vertical scale is changing on you is because the window has to make room when you add more lines of measurements below the graph...it squeezes the window up, making you change the limits to get back to 5dB steps. Typically, I can get at least 3 to 4 lines of measurements before having to change the limits, but it depends on the resolution of your computer monitor.


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What I really cannot understand is lets pick a frequency, say 40htz. You can see in my sweeps yesterday both with and without the mains I am about 104db. If you look at any of my REW measurements though I am only seeing ~95db. So if the system is capable of playing the frequency at that level, why isn't it?
Yes, 104dB...but at what level is your distortion? If you don't know how to read the distortion graph, send us your MDAT.

You may be compressing like crazy at 104dB, you may not...you need to do some max compression sweeps to know what your limits are.


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I think I just need more bass in my life.
Don't we all.
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post #101 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post
A pic of the room would be a big help. MBM may also be an option.
Link to the build of my room is in my signature. Click HERE to get right to the good bits.


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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
I totally labeled this wrong...should say "VERTICAL" scale.






But the two overlays of "Phase 0" and "Phase 180" do not have the same scale.

I have overlayed and scaled them here so that they match. If you flip back and forth between the two, you can see that with the phase at 180 you are losing about 1-2dB from 20-40hz (no big deal) and about 18dB at 65hz or so. Phase at 180 should sound significantly weaker in the lower mid-bass. I think if you leave the phase at 0 and do the distance tweak, you could probably get that area from 50-100hz at least a bit flatter.






The reason your vertical scale is changing on you is because the window has to make room when you add more lines of measurements below the graph...it squeezes the window up, making you change the limits to get back to 5dB steps. Typically, I can get at least 3 to 4 lines of measurements before having to change the limits, but it depends on the resolution of your computer monitor.




Yes, 104dB...but at what level is your distortion? If you don't know how to read the distortion graph, send us your MDAT.

You may be compressing like crazy at 104dB, you may not...you need to do some max compression sweeps to know what your limits are.




Don't we all.

To save time I am just going to post after instead of splitting your response up.

What I was asking about was the Logarithmic scale vs the Linear scale. Is the Logarithmic the one that will compress the space between some frequencies?

Next up the chats you are talking about all have the same scale, unless I am REALLY dumb....

Subs and Mains at 0 degrees


Subs and Mains at 180 degrees


Both overlaid


To me the only difference is the bottom of the chart is cut off some on the overlay. But since both are on there, both have the same scale.

I am positive that the voxel is distorted at those levels, there is no question there. I sure hope that my main subs are not though! I know I have looked at the waterfall, but I don't remember what it looked like right now. I will try and get the file up today.


Sean
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post #102 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke EF View Post
To save time I am just going to post after instead of splitting your response up.

What I was asking about was the Logarithmic scale vs the Linear scale. Is the Logarithmic the one that will compress the space between some frequencies?
Yes, and that is the correct setting. When the frequencies are spaced evenly, your FR is distorted and hard to read.


Quote:
Next up the chats you are talking about all have the same scale, unless I am REALLY dumb....
Actually, the ones I was talking about were the ones I re-posted above.

The charts you posted here still have the Freq. Axis set to Linear...and 10dB steps on the vertical axis.

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I am positive that the voxel is distorted at those levels, there is no question there. I sure hope that my main subs are not though! I know I have looked at the waterfall, but I don't remember what it looked like right now. I will try and get the file up today.
The WF won't show you distortion, that is for ringing.

Open up the Distortion graph, turn off all of the boxes at the bottom except for THD. Scrub your marker across the graph and watch the numbers for THD. What is the highest number and at what frequency does that occur?

You could post up that distortion graph too, just make sure the limits are set so that we can see the THD line as well as the FR.
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post #103 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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OK guys, here is the file.


Sean
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post #104 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Well AVS member @gangrew came though with some pulls from Straight Outta Compton for me to test. So this is the same scene from the movie in 7.1 and 2.0, and both played from start to finish. Both were played in VLC player on the HTPC with the volume at -5 on the AVR. Both were with all of the speakers and subs on. I did them back to back, no changes to anything at all.






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I used the Mains+Subs, phase at 0 measurement to produce these graphs.

Your distortion is pretty high at those levels...almost 25% at 90hz! I'd be careful of speaker damage at those levels.

Also; 10% at 78hz, 5% at 25hz, 17% at 10hz. Those numbers are not unheard of or particularly horrible, but the goal is to try to keep THD under 3% IIRC from 20hz on up.

You seem to have a bit less distortion overall with the subs at 180...but, I would experiment with the sub distance instead of phase to try and smooth out the crossover transition if I was you.





Your spectrogram is very telling...see all the red below 20hz? This tells me that the vast majority of bass energy going into your room is under 20hz (also shown in your FR graphs) and this is masking the higher frequencies. I would try for a much flatter response if at all possible...I realize that that hump could be due to room gain and there is nothing you can do about it, but if you can it would almost definitely sound better.

The good news is that your ringing seems to be very well controlled!

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post #106 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Broke EF View Post
Well AVS member @gangrew came though with some pulls from Straight Outta Compton for me to test. So this is the same scene from the movie in 7.1 and 2.0, and both played from start to finish. Both were played in VLC player on the HTPC with the volume at -5 on the AVR. Both were with all of the speakers and subs on. I did them back to back, no changes to anything at all.
How different did they sound?

At what bitrate is that MP3?

Did you mean 7.1 and 2.1??
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post #107 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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How different did they sound?

At what bitrate is that MP3?

Did you mean 7.1 and 2.1??
The mp3 is at 128k, and he has it labeled 2.0, so I went with that They sounded pretty different. Its not like it was hard hitting (like explosions) in 7.1, but it had a lot more umph to it.

Getting back to my distortion, that's good to know. I would guess the 90htz is more my mains not keeping up than the subs. I could be wrong there, but they are not really happy at those levels Also, I NEVER actually listen that loud, usually I am at -15 or -20 in the AVR.

I know that most of that low end IS actually room gain. I will have to look to find it, but I have actually seen almost 130db in that low end. Most of my DSP settings (from what I remember) are trying to kill that low end hump.


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post #108 of 276 Old 09-23-2016, 07:42 PM
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It looks like you have an answer, the mains are to small and leaveing an audio hole for your music. Alan is correct in to much low bass just drowning out the mids. I've recently backed down my subs. This was causing the mains to work harder even set to small do to the bass.
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post #109 of 276 Old 09-24-2016, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, its question time! I was by my buddies place earlier and we did some quick sweeps of his system. He is running EMPTek towers up front with a single SVS PB12-NSD in a family room that is completely open to the house on one "wall". He is not running any DSP, and I am not sure what (if any) set up has been done since he changed to a Denon receiver a while back. Anyway he is very happy with it all, and its been a great system. I think it sounds really good with music especially, and is the one I use as a measuring stick for my setup in that regard.

Unfortunately my laptop was acting up, so we ended up installing REW on his HTPC which means I don't have the graphs to show you guys. The gist of it is that his was flat from around 40-140htz. Now this was FAR from an idea measurement, we had the mic in the middle of the room (about) and there was all kinds of people sitting around talking, but we took a handful of measurements and made changes and it was pretty consistent. It also wasn't table flat, there were two dips at about 70 and 95htz. We saw a peak of about 110db give or take a few db for the most part. It stepped down after 40htz about 5db until about 20htz where it rolled off pretty quick. We did have the front speakers on, but we set them to small and crossed them over at 250 to pretty much take them out of the picture.

Doing some RTA while playing music there was a lot more action in that 50-60htz range than you saw on my system. However, I am still not convinced that is the main crux of my issue. The music I was comparing peaks around 40htz, which I don't have an issue with on my main system, but yet my computer system (which peaks at 40htz) has more bass. I understand that I could be missing say 60htz, but if the big bass hits are 40, then why does it still sound so anemic? His system was also doing about 110db on sweeps, and about 105db or so peaks with music. Mine will do 110db sweeps, and about 90db peaks with music.

Now to get to the questions. If I am missing mid bass, which I know I am, then what can I do? Looking back at my old measurements, I was much flatter across a much wider range.



What the hell happened?! More less I am looking to see where to start to get everything back in line. I am planning on changing my main LCR speakers, should I wait to dial it all in until after I get them changed out?


Sean
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post #110 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 05:35 AM
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Hi Sean,

I can't tell you what happened to change things from the way they were at one time. but I have been convinced since fairly early in your thread that the problem was in the mid-bass range, which is typically thought to start at about 50Hz. Low acoustic instrument sounds, like the fundamental notes of a kick drum, only go down to ~ 50Hz. Some electronic music, and harp, piano, and organ music, can obviously go lower than that. But, the majority of the bass that we notice most in music is from about 50Hz and up.

Depending on a number of factors, including placement, subs may not deliver as much mid-bass as we like. If our main speakers don't do their part, we may have to explore ways to better integrate our main speakers (via experimenting with different crossovers, since we can rarely change their placement), changing to more capable speakers, or adding a mid-bass module to augment the mid-bass.

At this point, you may not ever know exactly why you are not getting the mid-bass you want in your main system. But, I always thought you should focus on experimenting more with the fronts to find solutions--some method of operation that seemed to improve the sound. If you are replacing your front three speakers with more powerful ones, that should help, and you can certainly wait until they are installed to do any further problem solving.

If, however, you want to experiment now, I can't think of anything else to try except adjusting your crossovers (up to about 120Hz and down to about 60Hz). I can tell you emphatically that where main speakers are capable enough, they can contribute significantly to the mid-bass. Audio experts (and sub makers) such as Mark Seaton and Jeff Permanian (JTR), among others, strongly believe in the importance of capable speakers to support the mid-bass from 50 or 60Hz up, even with some of the best subwoofers in the world, and as a result, they design speakers with that capability. Many other makers do, as well.

So, I think that the long-term solution is going to be more capable speakers, and/or a mid-bass module. Typically, a MBM, such as the one described and tested in the following thread, has a HPF of about 60Hz in order to give good mid-bass support and increased tactile response. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...-response.html

Short-term, you can certainly experiment with ways to improve your mid-bass performance via crossover changes (it takes about 10 seconds) but I doubt that you will get all that you are hoping for until you change to more powerful speakers, or perhaps add bass traps, or rearrange speaker locations, etc. Hopefully, better fronts will solve the problem.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #111 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 07:04 AM
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Since you're using an HTPC, you may as well try equalizer apo:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/

It works very well with the info from REW, or, just for fun, you can plug in a boost and see what happens:
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 70.0 Hz Gain 6.0 dB Q 2.0
Michael

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
Welcome to AVS - Get out while you still can!
Don't guess, measure: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-au...l#post22789786
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post #112 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I took some sweeps this morning that may help us figure this out.

Here is the mains only, set to large, AVR was at -10


Here is the subs only, main speakers set to small and crossed over at 200htz, AVR was at -10


I am going to try to crossover the mains at 120htz and do a sweep to see where that gets me real quick. I should be outside doing yard work, but the bass be callin!!!



Sean
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post #113 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is the result of Subs+Mains with the mains being set to small and crossed over at 120htz. AVR at -10, subs at 0 in the AVR, and 6 clicks down from full on the inuke (same as the previous charts BTW).


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post #114 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke EF View Post
Here is the result of Subs+Mains with the mains being set to small and crossed over at 120htz. AVR at -10, subs at 0 in the AVR, and 6 clicks down from full on the inuke (same as the previous charts BTW).


Sean
I would say that your mid-bass looks better now. How does it sound? There is a null at 100Hz, which you may or may not actually be able to hear, since you are measuring just a single point in space and our hearing is binaural. But, from the way your bass drops off above 100Hz, it seems clear to me that your current speakers are not keeping up. How much are you boosting your subs? If you are boosting your subs by 10db, then the main speakers aren't doing too badly (-10 MV would be 95db), although the frequency response is a little ragged.

I assume that part of the reason you are getting a new front soundstage, may be to have more low-end extension and superior output. Just out of curiosity, what are the trim levels on your front speakers? Where did YPAO set them, and have you manually adjusted them at all since the calibration?

(Edited for additional clarity.)

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 09-25-2016 at 09:17 AM.
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post #115 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 09:08 AM
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Looking better Sean. At this point could you do another L+R but do a recording with the rta per the link I posted before and post it? That will tell you if the dip at at 100hz is real ie. something to fix and will better represent what you are actually hearing.
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post #116 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Looking better Sean. At this point could you do another L+R but do a recording with the rta per the link I posted before and post it? That will tell you if the dip at at 100hz is real ie. something to fix and will better represent what you are actually hearing.
I looked back the last two pages, and didn't notice a link?

I think I need to start from scratch again. I am not sure the mic is adjusted correctly (again) and I need to start over with phase and delay to see if I can get the subs better.


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post #117 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 09:47 AM
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https://mehlau.net/audio/room-correction-peq/

This approach is new to me, was shared on the cs1214 thread. I've had great success with it so far.

It's also really easy and fast. Best of all you hold the mic in your hand and just slowly wave it around your head and seating area.

Last edited by corradizo; 09-25-2016 at 10:03 AM.
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post #118 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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So I am first following along with the famous AustinJerry step by step guide for REW, and I hit a snag. I am configuring the drivers, and I can set all of the output stuff correctly, but when I go to set the input device I only have HD Audio Line input 1 and HD Audio Line input 2. If I change back to Java I get the UMIK-1 as an option. Also when I select ASIO for the device it asks about using the UMIK-1 calibration file. HELP!


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post #119 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 12:18 PM
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Unplug and replug the mic in.

I have the same problem with the mic and widows 10 and the latest REW release
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post #120 of 276 Old 09-25-2016, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Unplug and replug the mic in.

I have the same problem with the mic and widows 10 and the latest REW release
No dice, I did that before I asked and I just did it again with the program open (so I have done it with it open and closed). I am on Windows 7 Pro 64bit

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