First Time Builder - 1299 Center and 2 Marty Cubes - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 27Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 34 Old 09-28-2016, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
First Time Builder - 1299 Center and 2 Marty Cubes... plus 1099s

Thanks to all the community for the joy of being able to lurk (for 2 months) and learn from your knowledge and experience.

I currently have an Onkyo TX-SR875 AV receiver that powers Polk Audio LSi9/LSiC up front, with a couple of Polks mounted in the back wall.
IMHO, I've been lacking mid range depth and woefully short on sub impact for movies.

Budget constraints limit the scope of my ambitions, so I've chosen to build the following:
- One 1299 Center to replace the LSiC
- Two Marty cube subs
- Two 1299 L/R (next year if/when funds are available)

Based on all your collective wisdom, I've already acquired:
- 1299 Center kit from @Erich H (excellent service and packaging) Arrived yesterday - feel the excitement!!!

- MiniDSP UMIK-1
- iNuke NU3000DSP (I've modded the fan with a Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M8-1 Low Noise 1200rpm, 7.8 dBA - SUPER QUIET!!!)
- (2) Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Subwoofers
- Speakon connectors/cables/adapters
- Misc wire (14ga) and quick disconnects
- Grill cloth (Joann Fabrics) - might upgrade to something nicer later depending on final appearance
- Neodymium magnets in a couple of sizes for grill fronts (pairs of N/S with center hole for mounting with a screw)
- Misc screws, glue, tools (i.e., counter sinks and forstner bits), etc.
- UltraTouch Denim Insulation (R19 5.5 in thick x 15in wide)

I'm using 3/4" Red Oak Plywood, with the intention of staining and finishing the subs.
I'll be painting the 1299 center black.

I pulled out my old Sears table saw from the corner of the garage and started cleaning it up and adjusting it for active duty.
I changed the saw blade from a rough cut to a 72-tooth carbide blade for cutting the plywood. It was OK but not perfect.
I've resigned myself to the fact that this first build won't be a work of art, but they ought to sound pretty darn good when finished.

First step was to setup and enhance a set of sawhorse for the large sheet work.
I chose a setup described by David Radtke in a video "Video: Build a Portable Sawhorse Table" at The Family Handyman.

Two software tools were invaluable; SketchUp for studying another posters work to model the Marty Cube, and MaxCut for laying out the panels that would need to be cut across the sheets of plywood in an efficient manner. Highly recommended!

Last night my lovely assistant (of 35 years) and I started about with the cutting.
I was very intimidated at the prospect of cutting a 4' x 8' panel in half on a medium size table saw without any accompanying outfeed rollers.
I decided instead to draw up all the lines on sheet one and cut it in half with a power saw, following a guide (48" level).
While the cut was straight, the blade made mince meat of the (thin) top oak ply. Argh and oh well for now.
Sanded off the rough edges and moved on.

In all we cut down three full sheets before calling it a night (too dark to be safely cutting in the driveway by only 2 spotlights.)
You know the old adage, "Measure twice, cut once." That only works if you brain doesn't get scrambled and you measure the right dimension.
Yeah, I screwed up and cut two panels too short. Learning by experience. Thankfully, I had foreseen this risk and previously bought a 4th sheet for insurance.

We'll get back to cutting tonight.

My attention is now on to the 1299 crossover.

I would like to take a crack at physically making the the 1299 crossover myself, but would be most appreciative of a little guidance from others with more experience, like @mtg90 .
I've seen some really nice pictures of the work he's done on the 1299 crossover on another thread.

I was going to use a simple piece of 1/4 luan plywood as a base.
I'm looking for a template that describes the component placement, both on (1) the top side surface layout as well as (2) the underside point-to-point wiring.
I have the schematic from @Erich H , but not sure I trust myself with the translation.

Another consideration in crossover implementation, not so much for now on the center, but in the future for the L/R, is the physical wiring differences to allow for Bi-Amping the 1299 towers. I currently bi-amp the Polk LSi9's and might benefit from this on the 1299s as well since I'm not running a 7 channel system, nor have any expectation of doing soon in the near future until the whole rig gets upgraded in a couple of years.

Thanks for listening and for any tips.

-Ray
filtor1 likes this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-15-2016 at 12:18 PM. Reason: Add 1099 to title
thillrh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 34 Old 10-02-2016, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
... progress on the 1299 center today

Finally got to cutting last night and did a full dry fit this afternoon.

Several of the pieces did not fit well and required multiple trimming passes to get close enough for assembly.

I wasn't quite sure how to approach the actual assembly. I opted to dry fit and clamp everything while I marked and drilled pilot holes, followed by countersinking for the 1 1/4" wood screws (I wished I would have used longer screws in hind sight, but these appeared sufficient in the end).

For the actual assembly, I had my lovely assistant provide a hand as well as her extra gifting of common sense to make up for my lack of much

We brushed the glue onto all surfaces that were to be mated, then put them in place and set the screws, working on several panels at a time.

The final mounting of the front baffle followed the same protocol of glue and screws.

The speakers were dry fit in order to mark where their mount holes will be required.
I did have to bend one set of the speaker wiring tabs out of the way in order to get the speaker to fit into the opening for the mid range.

I'm anxious to get working on the crossover this week to get closer to firing this thing up for a listen.
My SO is getting concerned about the overall size now that it can been seen in 3D. I just keep smiling!!!

All the panels for the (2) Marty cubes are now cut. I hope to get a couple of assembly sessions this week if work doesn't wipe me out first.

I've included a few pictures from today's garage session.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_175649.jpg
Views:	358
Size:	92.2 KB
ID:	1697353   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_173034.jpg
Views:	320
Size:	86.5 KB
ID:	1697361   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_172045.jpg
Views:	288
Size:	79.9 KB
ID:	1697369   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_172036.jpg
Views:	300
Size:	85.3 KB
ID:	1697377   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_171950.jpg
Views:	325
Size:	113.4 KB
ID:	1697385  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_171824.jpg
Views:	308
Size:	144.4 KB
ID:	1697393   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_171804.jpg
Views:	294
Size:	116.1 KB
ID:	1697401   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161002_194227.jpg
Views:	415
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	1697409  
thillrh is offline  
post #3 of 34 Old 10-02-2016, 09:05 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Shadowed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,251
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 945 Post(s)
Liked: 911
EXCELLENT WORK!

Congrats on your first build and welcome to the forum!
Shadowed is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 34 Old 10-03-2016, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
... it's all about that ... crossover

Tonight was all about trying to figure out the electrical connections for the 1299 crossover.

Not having a clue on how to translate the wiring diagram schematic to a physical implementation, I decided to pay homage to @mtg90 and try to understand his excellent workmanship. I've attempted to translate onto wood what he has done so marvelously with circuit boards.

It took hours to figure out how to do this. I kicked myself several times for not mailing the parts to Matt in the first place.
Despite the temptation to quit several times, I did what I thought could be made to work.
I haven't quite figured out how to get "terminals" onto the board, but a trip to Fry's might provide inspiration.
The soldering will have to wait for a couple of days due to long days at work this week.

Wrapping up with some photos.

Oh yes, are the binding posts supposed to be seated all the way through the wood to their full base?
I don't think I drove these far enough through the wood and may need to enlarge the opening first.
(Answer: I did remove the binding posts to redrill larger holes in order to seat the shaft all the way into the wood.)

-Ray
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161003_211803.jpg
Views:	287
Size:	96.3 KB
ID:	1698905   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161003_211744.jpg
Views:	312
Size:	124.0 KB
ID:	1698913   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161003_211940.jpg
Views:	253
Size:	39.7 KB
ID:	1698929  

Last edited by thillrh; 11-09-2016 at 08:31 AM. Reason: Clarify binding post question
thillrh is offline  
post #5 of 34 Old 10-04-2016, 05:04 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
... solder time

... couldn't sleep, thinking too much about the project I guess, so I got up out of bed at 4:30 AM and soldered the underside connections I had left undone the night before. Once I find suitable terminals I will drill holes to mount them to the board and solder then into their respective sections.
My preference is to use some sort of disconnect for all the wire terminations.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161004_045838.jpg
Views:	223
Size:	91.2 KB
ID:	1699097  
thillrh is offline  
post #6 of 34 Old 10-04-2016, 11:57 AM
Senior Member
 
rondi's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 378
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by thillrh View Post
My preference is to use some sort of disconnect for all the wire terminations.
Search "phoenix connectors" on Parts Express. They are what mtg90 supplies with the raw xovr pcb. I'm not sure how you would fasten them to your board tho--maybe some hot melt AFTER you have soldered the wires on the bottom contacts.
rondi is offline  
post #7 of 34 Old 10-04-2016, 12:17 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dtsdig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Liked: 1386
Quote:
Originally Posted by thillrh View Post
Tonight was all about trying to figure out the electrical connections for the 1299 crossover.
I could be wrong, but I think you should remove the photo showing the schematic. To my knowledge, that crossover has not been made public. Only the purchaser has access to the schematic officially.

Otherwise, looking good!
tuxedocivic likes this.
dtsdig is offline  
post #8 of 34 Old 10-04-2016, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Not wishing to cross any lines here , I've removed that one photo. Thanks for the heads up.
dtsdig likes this.
thillrh is offline  
post #9 of 34 Old 10-04-2016, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by rondi View Post
Search "phoenix connectors" on Parts Express. They are what mtg90 supplies with the raw xovr pcb. I'm not sure how you would fasten them to your board tho--maybe some hot melt AFTER you have soldered the wires on the bottom contacts.
Thanks for the tip @rondi . I'll check it out.
thillrh is offline  
post #10 of 34 Old 11-03-2016, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Finishing touches on 1299 center

Here are the final assembly photos from the 1299 center.

I've been enjoying the sound of the new center channel for a couple of weeks now.
The 1299 center channel accomplished just what I had hoped for in filling out the mid to low frequencies and providing clearer dialogue.
This speaker is so efficient that I had to use my AV receiver to reduce the center channel output by between -9dB and -12dB to blend it well with the remaining Polk Audio LSi9 L/R bookshelves. The LSi9s bookshelf mains have a rated efficiency of 88dB.
I plan to replace the LSi9s with a couple of DIYSG 1099s in the coming weeks (already ordered).

[Paint]
I thought I was doing myself a favor by using spray can of black Rustoleum primer on the MDF of the center channel.
The primer looked great and covered the screws and recessed speaker mounts very nicely.
I applied black Behr Premium Plus Ultra paint (stain blocking pain and primer in one) using a brush on top of the primed MDF.
The spray primer did not provide very good adhesion and also didn't dry as well as the paint applied directly to the plywood products.
I'll try applying paint directly to the MDF in future builds to compare the behavior.

[Update 2016-11-18]
After 3+ weeks of drying in place, the black paint remains too "tacky" for me.
By that I mean that I cannot slide the cabinet across the glass (the paint has too much surface grip).
I'm going to apply a cover coat of Polycrylic over the paint on the 1299 and see if that helps.

[Grill Cover]
The use of neodymium magnets worked out perfectly for easy placement and removal of the grill cover for the center channel.
I countersunk one side of the north/south pair into the face of the front baffle and mounted it with a #6 screw.
I made the frame using pieces of solid oak and braced at each corner with a triangle of luan plywood.
The other side of the north/south magnet pair was then glued in place on the inside of the triangle corner brace.
The magnets are strong enough to attract the entire panel to the face of the front baffle [through the luan] and hold it in place.
The magnets are so strong in fact, that I did not want them to make direct contact for fear of requiring too much force to separate them.
I used Speaker Cloth from a local Joann Fabrics store, applied with 3M adhesive only.
My corner finishing skills kinda suck, but not too bad for a first timer.

[Update 2016-11-18]
I think I'm going to need to use those stronger magnets plus a better fit technique for the grill cover at the corners.
The grill cover was knocked off today during at full volume tst of U-571 - awesome!

The final picture here shows the center with the grill cover removed and placed on the floor.
The two subwoofers can be seen as well, one finished (right) and one not (left).

Ray
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161007_105500.jpg
Views:	334
Size:	117.7 KB
ID:	1751513   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161012_131312.jpg
Views:	350
Size:	117.7 KB
ID:	1751529   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161012_112105.jpg
Views:	319
Size:	134.8 KB
ID:	1751545   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161012_112305.jpg
Views:	312
Size:	176.7 KB
ID:	1751553   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161007_141111.jpg
Views:	387
Size:	98.1 KB
ID:	1751561  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161027_120535.jpg
Views:	297
Size:	95.0 KB
ID:	1751569   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161027_120557.jpg
Views:	287
Size:	91.3 KB
ID:	1751577   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161027_120636.jpg
Views:	291
Size:	61.0 KB
ID:	1751585   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161025_091745.jpg
Views:	435
Size:	66.2 KB
ID:	1751593  
jubei951, ORIF, filtor1 and 2 others like this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-18-2016 at 06:30 PM.
thillrh is offline  
post #11 of 34 Old 11-03-2016, 09:43 AM
Advanced Member
 
1st Cav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 898
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 146
Quote:
Originally Posted by thillrh View Post
I plan to replace the LSi9s with a couple of DIYSG 1099s in the coming weeks (already ordered).
Everything looks really good, great job on the build. Question though, why not go with 2 more 1299's instead of the 1099's? Space restrictions?



Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
1st Cav is offline  
post #12 of 34 Old 11-07-2016, 07:52 PM
Member
 
ZX3ST's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Looks nice. Do you have any pics with the grill installed on the center?

Love the finish on the right sub enclosure BTW.
ZX3ST is offline  
post #13 of 34 Old 11-08-2016, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1st Cav View Post
Everything looks really good, great job on the build. Question though, why not go with 2 more 1299's instead of the 1099's? Space restrictions?



Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I preferred to go with two more 1299s for the L/R mains, but the wife acceptance factor (WAF) was having none of that plan after experiencing the size of the 1299 center for herself.
Over dinner last night there was some lively discussion over the size of the new 1099 speakers arriving later this week. The 1099s are smaller but not by a whole lot IMHO.
I offered what I felt was a reasonable solution to the perceived size of the speakers, just buy a sufficiently larger TV that the speakers appear smaller. 8))
thillrh is offline  
post #14 of 34 Old 11-08-2016, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX3ST View Post
Looks nice. Do you have any pics with the grill installed on the center?

Love the finish on the right sub enclosure BTW.
Thanks @ZX3ST , we are both anxious to get the other sub finished in the same way once my fractured foot heals up and I can get around better.

I'll have to get a fresh picture with the grill on tonight.
From our viewing position, the grill does a perfect job of completely hiding the underlying speakers in our lighting situation (can't see the speakers at all).
thillrh is offline  
post #15 of 34 Old 11-08-2016, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadowed View Post
EXCELLENT WORK!

Congrats on your first build and welcome to the forum!
Thanks @Shadowed . The build was a great combination of both challenge and reward - very gratifying.

I highly recommend others give it a try - take you time, seek help from others, and don't let the fear (or the repeatedly reality in my case) of making mistakes stop you from attempting to move forward.
thillrh is offline  
post #16 of 34 Old 11-08-2016, 06:36 PM
Member
 
ZX3ST's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by thillrh View Post
Thanks @ZX3ST , we are both anxious to get the other sub finished in the same way once my fractured foot heals up and I can get around better.

I'll have to get a fresh picture with the grill on tonight.
From our viewing position, the grill does a perfect job of completely hiding the underlying speakers in our lighting situation (can't see the speakers at all).
Yikes, hopefully you didn't get hurt too bad. I smashed my ankle and leg in a collision with the boards in a pickup hockey game once. I wouldn't wish that upon my worst enemy. Totally sucked. It was about 8wks before I could really walk well and another 9mos before it finally quit hurting.

Is that actual red oak ply or veneer? What stain?

Sorry for the 20 questions, I'm soaking up ideas for my next build!
ZX3ST is offline  
post #17 of 34 Old 11-08-2016, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Marty Cube Sub

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX3ST View Post
Yikes, hopefully you didn't get hurt too bad. I smashed my ankle and leg in a collision with the boards in a pickup hockey game once. I wouldn't wish that upon my worst enemy. Totally sucked. It was about 8wks before I could really walk well and another 9mos before it finally quit hurting.

Is that actual red oak ply or veneer? What stain?

Sorry for the 20 questions, I'm soaking up ideas for my next build!
Here is a picture of the center with the grill in place.

[Marty Cube Sub]
I used (so called) 3/4" Red Oak plywood from my local Home Depot.
I had to recalculate the panel dimensions of the original design to account for the narrower ply thickness of 23/32" vs. the original plans which expected 3/4" thickness.
Once all the panels were cut, I was very careful in my panel selection to hide imperfections, designating panels with imperfections towards the inside, back or bottom.
The front face and top panels were cherry picked to present the best look possible from the seated position.

The forward facing ply edges were covered with trim, also of Oak to maintain a consistent look.
I didn't bother covering the ply edges on the top, since once stained and covered with poly, they were good enough for me.
All screw holes were plugged with oak plugs and sanded prior to finishing.
The forward facing ply edges of the port separators were trimmed with a custom cut piece of oak as well.

I applied two coats of Minwax Penetrating Stain [Golden Oak 210B] on the Oak plywood, including the oak trim placed on the front edges to hide the ply.
I followed that with three coats of Minwax Polycrylic [water based - clear satin] protective finish, sanding between coats 2 and 3.

I've added a PDF of the cut layout I used for cutting all the panels for the 2 Marty Cubes and the 1299 center cabinet. This may prove helpful to someone else's project. It also demonstrates the value of the MaxCut software as I tried various layouts. I even used MaxCut to determine how many yards of speaker fabric I would need using different widths of products on the market.

Ray
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161108_164454.jpg
Views:	248
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	1761305   Click image for larger version

Name:	20160912_180254.jpg
Views:	239
Size:	75.1 KB
ID:	1761313   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161027_120943.jpg
Views:	227
Size:	66.0 KB
ID:	1761321   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161027_120926.jpg
Views:	216
Size:	82.6 KB
ID:	1761329   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161014_182040.jpg
Views:	264
Size:	59.9 KB
ID:	1761337  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161021_193312.jpg
Views:	209
Size:	88.9 KB
ID:	1761345   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161012_181636.jpg
Views:	200
Size:	73.6 KB
ID:	1761353   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161013_150845.jpg
Views:	202
Size:	127.1 KB
ID:	1761369  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Marty Cube Cut Layout.pdf (95.8 KB, 78 views)
eng-399 likes this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-09-2016 at 08:13 AM. Reason: Clarify a comment, add a picture, add cut list
thillrh is offline  
post #18 of 34 Old 11-10-2016, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
... onto the 1099s

The boxes arrived today for a new pair of 1099s.
I can't wait until I can get on with the build.
thillrh is offline  
post #19 of 34 Old 11-10-2016, 09:29 PM
Senior Member
 
K9woofer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: MB
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 184 Post(s)
Liked: 119
So the moral of the story is to order 3x 1299's at once?
K9woofer is offline  
post #20 of 34 Old 11-11-2016, 07:45 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
VicTorious1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,222
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 580 Post(s)
Liked: 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by K9woofer View Post
So the moral of the story is to order 3x 1299's at once?
Exactly what I was thinking. It would've been too late for her to say no by then.
VicTorious1 is offline  
post #21 of 34 Old 11-11-2016, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by K9woofer View Post
So the moral of the story is to order 3x 1299's at once?
Too funny @K9woofer -

Yeah, I hear what you're saying and side with that course of action personally.
However, I have a responsibility to keep the peace or live with the fallout on a day-to-day basis.

I got to tell ya, I truly tried to be as up front as possible about the sizes of both the 1299 and the Marty Cube subwoofers.
We had very open discussions, sessions with the measuring tape, everything short of building a cardboard model to visualize the end result. In the end, seeing in real life trumps what the mind can visualize.

I have no regrets whatsoever about the 1299 center, and would be quite content to add another pair for L/R.
I believe the 1099s will be a great compliment and compromise (?) to the overall system.
Given the positive feedback, I'm not considering the 1099s a compromise at all, since they should hold their own very nicely.

As I said in an earlier thread, buy a big enough TV panel and the speakers won't appear too large at all - LOL.

Ray

Last edited by thillrh; 11-28-2016 at 12:52 PM.
thillrh is offline  
post #22 of 34 Old 11-14-2016, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Finishing 2nd Marty Cube

Made some progress this weekend on starting the final trim and finishing of the 2nd Marty Cube subwoofer.

Lessons learned between the 1st and 2nd subwoofer build...
- Mount the trim prior to final sanding. This allows for a more seamless fit appearance between the front facing trim and the box itself. I missed this on the first one
- Sand everything *before* staining (I didn't do this in the proper sequence the first time around)
- Pay very close attention to trim fitment, especially at the corners, every 1/32nd matters if you want a clean result
- Sand away imperfections (if possible)
- Sand away all glue residue prior to stain/finishing (I missed this is few locations and the final finish reflects imperfections as a result)

Tonight I will start to apply multiple coats of Poly finish, sanding with 220 between coats (at least 3 coats).

Ray
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161112_151434.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	87.9 KB
ID:	1769593   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161112_152034.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	82.2 KB
ID:	1769601   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161112_152113.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	96.7 KB
ID:	1769609   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161112_165039.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	114.3 KB
ID:	1769617   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_132259.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	129.5 KB
ID:	1769625  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_133704.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	124.1 KB
ID:	1769633   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161114_073841.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	95.2 KB
ID:	1769641  
thillrh is offline  
post #23 of 34 Old 11-14-2016, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Starting the 1099 builds

Made some progress with building the new 1099s for L/R duty.

I decided to go with the flat pack option to reduce the amount of time spent acquiring and cutting materials.
This was my first experience with building using MDF material.
I learned a couple of things (some the hard way) so I thought I would comment for the benefit of others that come after me.

First off, kudos to @Erich H of DIYSG - you provide a great service, solid products, and exceptional packaging for home delivery! Thank you

Ya gotta love flat packs! Things just fit right out of the box.
I set out to glue one (of two) and discovered there may be slight and interesting anomalies in cut angles.
After building one 1099 cabinet, I noticed that I had not paid enough attention to the positioning of every single joint. One of the end panels was just a bit off (too far inside the cabinet by ~1/32nd). In the end, easily sanded into a smooth appearing joint, but I would have preferred perfection.
Now, to be fair, I appear to have a personal challenge with managing assembly with only two hands, 6 clamps and seemingly more intersections than I can manage simultaneously. I wish I had more clamps and less panic when everything is glued up and setting in place faster than I can correct.
Clamp placement appears to be an art in itself because if you are askew in any way, the pieces gladly comply with the [skewed] force applied and move out of position.

On the second build, I tried to use a clamp to bring together the farthest panels, but I hadn't gotten a good alignment for full surface contact before applying clamping pressure. This resulted in a piece of the MDF breaking off rather easily. Hmm, no other option made sense other than to than press on and glue the chipped piece back into place as best I could later. (See photos)

FYi, I still need to find a good filler if I am to achieve a seamless joint for finishing. I don't like even the small cracks where I didn't have sufficient clamps to keep all joints tight.

I'm still torn about the finishing options, not sure I want to use the same black paint as I had earlier on the 1299, since I was disappointed with the tacky feel of the paint finish. I might prefer a paint that can itself by covered by another more durable layer for day-to-day durability (not sure what that is though).
The poly coting on the subs is awesome. Is there an equivalent product for application over a painted surface?

At first, when cleaning up the 1099 edges, I was too aggressive with my belt sander and 50 grit material and made a gouge. I tried to clean it up as best I could, but shadows remain (let's call those character marks ). I changed the belt sander to 120 grit material and went more softly before switching to 120 grit on an orbital sander for the final touches.

The internal wiring for the 10" woofers is in place between the center compartment and the outer woofer compartments. I intend to place the crossover within the middle compartment. The holes to allow the wires to pass through the compartments between the crossover and the speakers were drilled small/tight enough to the wire dimension that additional caulking shoudn't be necessary.

Anyway, it's coming along.

Teaser... I'm going to try out a new option for a DIY crossover build using a new PCB.
I'm awaiting parts and will provide an update once available.

Ray
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_152834.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	95.3 KB
ID:	1769953   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_142312.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	114.7 KB
ID:	1769961   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_160358.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	112.6 KB
ID:	1769969   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_142637.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	67.5 KB
ID:	1769977   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_162022.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	82.8 KB
ID:	1769985  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_142649.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	59.6 KB
ID:	1769993   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_163742.jpg
Views:	128
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	1770001   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_142731.jpg
Views:	119
Size:	68.7 KB
ID:	1770009   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_180334.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	64.8 KB
ID:	1770017   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_142747.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	52.9 KB
ID:	1770025  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161114_073919.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	84.7 KB
ID:	1770033   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_144036.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	97.9 KB
ID:	1770041   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161114_073941.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	80.8 KB
ID:	1770049   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_145845.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	84.4 KB
ID:	1770057   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161114_074024.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	62.8 KB
ID:	1770065  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_150029.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	87.4 KB
ID:	1770073   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161114_080729.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	95.8 KB
ID:	1770081   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_152513.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	100.4 KB
ID:	1770089   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161114_084004.jpg
Views:	159
Size:	88.0 KB
ID:	1770097   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161113_152719.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	89.1 KB
ID:	1770105  

cessna1466u likes this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-14-2016 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Correct poor wording
thillrh is offline  
post #24 of 34 Old 11-18-2016, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
...progress update

Finished 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic on the 2nd Marty Cube subwoofer.
I was up at 5AM in the garage getting coats applied before going to work several days this week.

I'm not sure what I did differently, but the darkness of the stain on the second one (left in the picture) came out darker overall.
The picture doesn't do justice to the difference, but the depth is deeper on the second one for sure (the wife likes it - that's a real plus!)
Go figure, all the same materials and techniques... wait, I did sand the 2nd one a bit more before the stain, that's probably it.

On a lighter note, I was demonstrating the new setup to a neighbor today using U-571.
I had the volume cranked and literally knocked the front speaker cover off the 1299 center - awesome!
Time for stronger magnets and to redo the fabric for a better fit at the corners.

I've started the priming process for the 1099s.
After marking the speaker mounting holes, I predrilled them and laid out everything in the house to finish drying.
I haven't mounted the front baffles yet. I want to wait until I get the crossover and denim material installed first.
I will likely have to come back around and resand and reprime to get a good finish once the front baffle is glued into place.

For the crossover, I'm working with @ja00 on a prototype PCB.
More to come on that part of the build later in the week.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161118_105503.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	105.6 KB
ID:	1777369   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161118_105445.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	112.4 KB
ID:	1777385   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161118_140311.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	81.8 KB
ID:	1777393   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161118_155236.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	119.0 KB
ID:	1777401   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161114_211400.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	115.4 KB
ID:	1777409  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161118_083044.jpg
Views:	128
Size:	70.0 KB
ID:	1777417  
ja00 likes this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-28-2016 at 12:54 PM.
thillrh is offline  
post #25 of 34 Old 11-23-2016, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
First 1099 Crossover on custom PCB

Big shout out to @ja00 !
Thanks for working with me on supplying the crossover PCBs.
I am happy to lend support to the community as a BETA tester.

The printed layout on the PCB made the assembly a snap!
I was being very cautious and methodical.
It took me all night after work to carefully assemble, solder, wire up and test the first crossover. Success!!!

The next night I was able to complete the second crossover board from start to finish in about 1.5 hours (much faster).

My personal observations about different approaches to the assembly process...
- On the first board I mounted, soldered and trimmed the wires for each component, one at a time, starting with the lowest profile components and working my way up to the larger ones.
- On the second board I wire tied all the large components first, the hot glued all other components into place before doing any soldering.
- I preferred the second method. Mounting everything first and then soldering all at once was far more time efficient
- Wiring the two "air" coils (one red and one gold) had me scratching my head about how/where to route the leads. I spoke with an electrical engineer at work the next day and he said that a coil with that many windings wasn't going to display any measurable difference in performance from routing the leads either over, through the center, or across the coil.
- On a couple of the coils the leads are very long, so long that the insulated ends extend through to the underside of the PCB. I was told it was important to remove the insulation from the wires before soldering. I did so with sandpaper. The EE told me another method is to heat the lead with a lighter and then immediately wipe off with a cloth/rag to remove the melted insulation material before soldering.
- I tested every solder joint for continuity between the component on the top side of the board and the solder point at the underside of the board. All OK!
- This was my first time wiring/soldering the speaker wire directly to the board. I used 16ga wire and it fit perfectly and soldered up very securely. It did take some care and planning to position the wires and keep them in their proper place. I used a small block of packing foam to help lay the board onto when upside down, in a manner that kept the wires where I wanted them to be while soldering.
- The PCB was very solid - easily strong enough to tolerate all my back and forth handling during assembly
- After clipping the excess length of component wires/leads that were soldered on the underside of the board, the exposed ends that remain are extremely sharp! Use extreme caution or pay the price - ouch!

BTW, there is a terminal labeled J_OPT. This is for the optional padding resistor in case you find the 1099 too bright. To engage the padding, short the + and - terminals of J_OPT by connecting a wire between them. I've opted to leave it alone (open) until I get to hear the speaker as is and make up my mind regarding its "brightness" after a while of listening.

Now I have to figure out how to drill mounting holes into the MDF of the cabinets. The space is too tight to fit my electric drill.
I still need to route wires through the inner panels, but have to solve my problem of drilling in small spaces first.
Once they are mounted into the center space of the 1099 cabinets, I will add acoustic material and then glue the front baffle into place.

Ray

P.S. See later post. On 2016-11-27 I installed nylon spacers as standoffs to secure the boards, very solid!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161121_1099Crossover_RayThill.jpg
Views:	145
Size:	199.7 KB
ID:	1785969   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161121_163456.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	113.1 KB
ID:	1789329   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161121_163513.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	120.3 KB
ID:	1789337   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161121_182825.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	119.3 KB
ID:	1789345   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4635.JPG
Views:	110
Size:	82.8 KB
ID:	1789353  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4636.JPG
Views:	104
Size:	56.9 KB
ID:	1789361   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161121_214237.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	122.2 KB
ID:	1789369  
ja00 likes this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-28-2016 at 08:12 AM. Reason: Add photos, clarify
thillrh is offline  
post #26 of 34 Old 11-25-2016, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
... progress on 1099 builds

Today I tried to wrap up the assembly steps that effect the inside of the 1099s.
- Finish the binding post placement
- Mount the crossover
- Drill holes for the wiring between outer compartments and center where crossover resides
- Glue and secure sound material on the back panels
- Caulk the wiring holes on the inside panels
- Sand all the edges that will be affected by gluing on the baffles (to be started later tonight)

I opted to place the board itself on top of some sound material.
My reasoning was mostly about reducing opportunities for any rattling/buzzing/etc.

The Dewalt 90 degree adapter worked out great for drilling the holes with standard bits, spade bit (3/8" for wiring) and for tightening down the screws.
The one drawback was that the tool itself only accepted 1/4" hex shafts, which was somewhat limiting depending on the tools you have available.
Also, the shafts on my hex fitted drill bits are not magnetic, so it kept falling out (small nuisance).

For my placement of the crossover, I decided to place it in a position that would make it horizontal to the floor once in place.
I kept it forward of the back wall just enough to get the Dewalt adapter into position for drilling/screwing.
Getting those back screws in place was a small challenge due to small dark space and fat fingers.
I used a mirror and an LED flashlight to assist, which was a great help.

The shredded denim insulation was also cut into squares for gluing to the back walls with spray on 3M adhesive.
I also stapled into place a layer of very fine mesh over the denim insulation in order to keep small fibers from working their way loose and traveling around inside the cabinets under heavy use, especially for the ported woofer compartments.

I had planned to glue on the front baffles before taking a break for the night, but it was getting too cold to start that in the garage.
Everything is warming up inside the house now on a sheet of plastic and will get glued when properly warmed up.

Ray

P.S. I'm not sure what's up with the order of picture placement. They appear way out of any type of sequence, but the filenames are time stamped if anyone
cares.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_135148.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	95.7 KB
ID:	1789377   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_142412.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	126.8 KB
ID:	1789385   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_135624.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	108.3 KB
ID:	1789393   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_142428.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	69.3 KB
ID:	1789401   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_142442.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	76.0 KB
ID:	1789409  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_140121.jpg
Views:	102
Size:	112.6 KB
ID:	1789417   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_144338.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	105.6 KB
ID:	1789425   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_140243.jpg
Views:	107
Size:	60.4 KB
ID:	1789433   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_145932.jpg
Views:	95
Size:	131.5 KB
ID:	1789441   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_140945.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	82.5 KB
ID:	1789449  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_162425.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	106.5 KB
ID:	1789457   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_141038.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	100.4 KB
ID:	1789465   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_171121.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	115.4 KB
ID:	1789473   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_141142.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	78.6 KB
ID:	1789481   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_141825.jpg
Views:	89
Size:	90.2 KB
ID:	1789489  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_172706.jpg
Views:	94
Size:	47.2 KB
ID:	1789497   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_141955.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	48.3 KB
ID:	1789505   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_132820.jpg
Views:	88
Size:	87.3 KB
ID:	1789513   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_142053.jpg
Views:	94
Size:	75.0 KB
ID:	1789521   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161125_133750.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	58.9 KB
ID:	1789529  

ja00 likes this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-25-2016 at 06:11 PM.
thillrh is offline  
post #27 of 34 Old 11-26-2016, 09:08 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 7,988
Mentioned: 227 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2301 Post(s)
Liked: 2229
Nice detail on these builds. Thanks for taking the time to share. Hope you enjoy the sound.

My youtube channel: Impulse Audio
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #28 of 34 Old 11-27-2016, 06:14 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
... 1099 finishing progress

Thanks @tuxedocivic

Now that the front baffles are glued into place, today was all about getting started on the finishing touches.
Got up early and moved the cabinets into the garage for a final sanding around the baffle edges and one more primer primer on those sanded areas.
Vacuumed and wiped everything down and brought it back in the house for painting (too cold outside in the garage for paint).

On one of the cabinets, I applied a coat of black paint to the back and then placed the wet back side onto wooden blocks with standoffs (screws), then applied the final primer coat to the sanded areas. I was anxious to see how well a single coat of black would cover over the white.

After several hours of drying, I painted both cabinets black (except one of them did not get the back painted due to limited number of standoffs for drying.)
Single coat coverage was pretty amazing, but a second coat is definitely required .

On the front baffle, I decided to use a different technique for paint application, using more of a sponge blotting approach.
The wife kind of liked it too - gave the face a little more character than brush strokes, more like what a roller would have done I suppose.

Another coat of black tomorrow and we might be ready to installed the drivers by Tuesday... except for one fly in the ointment.

When I installed the crossover boards, I did not use any type of standoffs or mounting blocks underneath the board, opting at the time for only some insulation. I knew this wasn't the best way to transfer the stresses to the mounting surface, but I had taken a calculated shortcut.
Shout out to @ja00 for offering a suggestion to use standoffs for a more solid mount, even though it may not be an absolute requirement in this case. After a while of searching online for standoffs, bushings, spacers, etc. I ended up ordering a dozen nylon spacers from my local Home Depot. The shopping was tricky because most advertisement call out three dimensions without specifying what each dimension applies to. You've got to dig into the specifications of each part to insure you are looking at the correct length x inner diameter x outer diameter. In many cases, the picture shown on the web was the same one regardless of dimensions, so you couldn't just look at a picture to tell if you were in the ballpark or not.

I ended up picking something with a little more tolerance on the inner diameter since I'm sure the holes I've drilled are not perfectly aligned with the board. The outer diameter is bigger than I need, but it should work out if it doesn't interfere with any of the soldering point on the underside of the baord. I'm going to try the Everbilt Model # 814978 Internet #204225909 Store SKU #595383 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...4978/204225909
The dimensions are 1/2 in. Length/Height x 1/2 in. O.D. x 0.194 in. I.D.

Tomorrow I plan to try unmounting the boards and attempting to place the spacers under the boards with the mount screws inside, at least at the 4 corners if not at all 6 mount points. This should prove a challenge now that the front baffle is glued into place. [I ended up getting the install done that night, anxious to keep moving forward.]

Ray
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161127_100326.jpg
Views:	80
Size:	121.8 KB
ID:	1793713   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161127_100343.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	109.3 KB
ID:	1793721   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161127_161526.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	118.5 KB
ID:	1793729  
ja00 likes this.

Last edited by thillrh; 11-28-2016 at 08:11 AM.
thillrh is offline  
post #29 of 34 Old 11-27-2016, 08:03 PM
Senior Member
 
ja00's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 474
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Those 1099 boards are 2mm thick so they will withstand some unevenness in mounting without flexing too much. But yeah standoffs would prevent the board from flexing/bouncing/vibrating. Most of the heavy components are at the perimeter so you should be fine with standoffs on the corners.
ja00 is offline  
post #30 of 34 Old 11-27-2016, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
thillrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Antelope, CA
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 22
... inserting nylon spacers as standoffs

Quote:
Originally Posted by ja00 View Post
Most of the heavy components are at the perimeter so you should be fine with standoffs on the corners.
... and doing just the corners is what I decided to go with, particularly since Home Depot only had enough pieces on hand to get 8 total.

I hadn't considered the risk that my sound insulation could get wrapped up around the mount screw during extraction.
That took a while to sort out in order to get on with the actual placement.

Unfortunately, I had to remove the fine mesh and sound insulating material in order to get at the back mounting screws.
Once that was sorted out, piece of cake to slip these little buggers in there and tighten everything down.

That board feels rock solid like a tank right now!

Ray
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161127_190320_Before.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	56.9 KB
ID:	1793985   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161127_190613_Hairball.jpg
Views:	88
Size:	75.1 KB
ID:	1793993   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161127_190807_Placement.jpg
Views:	92
Size:	76.4 KB
ID:	1794001   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161127_190919_After.jpg
Views:	80
Size:	94.4 KB
ID:	1794009  
thillrh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off