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post #1 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Modified Cyclops Build

Thanks to the help of @LTD02 - I've begun a build of two Cyclops subwoofers. Since I already have two Stonehenges behind my AT screen, I've decided to set these two on top of my existing two subs. As a result, I am using the same depth and width of the Stonehenges. In order to assist with integration, I'm using a tuning point just under 19hz, which is similar to my existing subs.

The specs are:
  • Dimensions - 49" H x 30" W x 16" D
  • Volume - ~8 cubic feet
  • Tuning - ~18hz
  • Driver - SI DS4 (likely later to be swapped for UM18-22)

Mockup (not to scale):


As the internal volume on these subs is a little on the small side for the SI DS4 18, I plan to either move the DS4s to a sealed nearfield setup at a later date or to use them to flank my L/R speakers in larger ported boxes.

My current, temporary setup:



Proposed post-Cyclops build setup (not to scale):



Proposed final setup if I move DS4s to larger cabs and replace in the Cyclops with UM18s (probably unnecessary overkill in my 1800 ft^3 space):

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post #2 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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So I started cutting the MDF yesterday. Thanks to @eng-399 for the recommendation of the Emerson - Straight-Edge Saw Clamp Tool. It's worked great so far. I added some additional support with a clamp and 2x4 for the middle portion of the track, but as I realized later, that was unnecessary.

I also bought Kreg's Rip-Cut Tool, but I didn't end up using it. Not sure if I'll keep it for smaller cuts or just return it.

Some uninteresting pics of cut MDF below:


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Last edited by VicTorious1; 10-26-2016 at 07:45 AM.
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post #3 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 07:45 AM
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(probably unnecessary overkill in my 1800 ft^3 space):
"Overkill", what's this strange word you speak of???

Subbed! This should be fun



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post #4 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 08:08 AM
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Glad the clamp worked out it really helps make perfect straight cuts with the circular saw. Four subs up front is going to be a nice wall of bass!
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post #5 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 08:11 AM
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post #6 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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What are you powering these subs with again? Inuke 6k
Two iNuke 6Ks in my AVR room.
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post #7 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 09:04 AM
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thats going to be a sick set up!!
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post #8 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicTorious1 View Post
So I started cutting the MDF yesterday. Thanks to @eng-399 for the recommendation of the Emerson - Straight-Edge Saw Clamp Tool. It's worked great so far. I added some additional support with a clamp and 2x4 for the middle portion of the track, but as I realized later, that was unnecessary.

I also bought Kreg's Rip-Cut Tool, but I didn't end up using it. Not sure if I'll keep it for smaller cuts or just return it.
I use the Bora edge clamps that are very similar to the Emerson. I get great cuts and it didn't cost me a mortgage like a track saw. I do use my tablesaw whenever possible.
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post #9 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 02:30 PM
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Looks good so far, and sound like it will be a killer set up!

I have to also back the Emerson clamps. I bough the 99" and the 50" after @eng-399 helped me with my boxes, and they are the greatest things ever! I can rip down sheets so fast, and accurate now. I used to dread circular saw cuts, now I almost look forward to them.


Sean
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post #10 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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What's the length most folks use for brad nails? 1 inch? 1.5 inches?
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post #11 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke EF View Post
Looks good so far, and sound like it will be a killer set up!



I have to also back the Emerson clamps. I bough the 99" and the 50" after @eng-399 helped me with my boxes, and they are the greatest things ever! I can rip down sheets so fast, and accurate now. I used to dread circular saw cuts, now I almost look forward to them.





Sean


I hear ya Sean I use to dread using my table saw because at the end of the cut it use to be off by 1/8 because my fence isn't the strongest on my table saw. Now after buying the Emerson clamp cutting wood is no big deal. If you have a nice table saw with a real strong fence you should be good to.
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post #12 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
I hear ya Sean I use to dread using my table saw because at the end of the cut it use to be off by 1/8 because my fence isn't the strongest on my table saw. Now after buying the Emerson clamp cutting wood is no big deal. If you have a nice table saw with a real strong fence you should be good to.
It would be awesome to have a real nice cabinet table saw, and the space to have a real nice cabinet table saw. Until that day comes, this is the next best thing! I bought a table saw specifically to rip sheets and I don't think I have ever done it (EXTREMELY DANGEROUS). Luckily I didn't break the bank on it, and I have used it for other (smaller) projects, but I wish I would have gotten the clamps earlier.


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post #13 of 79 Old 10-26-2016, 05:47 PM
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Vic, looking good so far. I'm looking fwd to seeing an updated pic of the front sound stage, after you get the new subs installed.
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post #14 of 79 Old 11-08-2016, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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So, I was able to do some cutting over the weekend. I also picked up the Stereo Integrity DS4 18s that I'll be using. Finally, I was able to begin assembly of the first Cyclops. I've been assembling these at night when the kids and wife go to bed, @1st Cav . So no need to take a day off of work (yet). I've been using clamps even though I used my brad nailer to connect the MDF bracing where I needed to double up.

Despite having a soundproofed room where I'm building these boxes, the air compressor is so loud that I feel like it will wake the kids up. I've used my trusty sound meter to check and they can't hear it in their rooms, but my brain is having a hard time accepting that. I think I would've already completed at least one box had I been using the brad nailer. My SVS PB12-NSD's weight has been handy for clamping the double front baffle. Less than interesting status update pics below.








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post #15 of 79 Old 11-09-2016, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Is there any real benefit to dampening a sub? I believe I have some leftover denim from my 1099s.
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post #16 of 79 Old 11-11-2016, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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One box down. One to go.




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post #17 of 79 Old 11-11-2016, 07:57 AM
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Thumbs up

When I clicked on this link, I was hoping to see a HT version of this Cyclops.
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post #18 of 79 Old 11-11-2016, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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When I clicked on this link, I was hoping to see a HT version of this Cyclops.
Sorry to disappoint, but that looks wicked. What sub do you have in your avatar pic?
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post #19 of 79 Old 11-11-2016, 06:58 PM
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Kicker 08S15L74 in a T-TQWT (tapered tapped quarter wave tube or negative flare tapped horn).
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post #20 of 79 Old 11-18-2016, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Added vinyl spackling to the outside of the cabs. I used this instead of bondo because I don't have enough ventilation in my HT for using something with noxious fumes. Next, I'll sand down the boxes and add duratex. I'm thinking of either using spray paint (I know, noxious fumes and all) or just black paint for a first coat before adding the duratex. I noticed that I needed multiple coats of duratex when I painted my speakers because I added water to thin it out for a smoother finish.

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post #21 of 79 Old 11-18-2016, 12:30 PM
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Added vinyl spackling to the outside of the cabs. I used this instead of bondo because I don't have enough ventilation in my HT for using something with noxious fumes. Next, I'll sand down the boxes and add duratex. I'm thinking of either using spray paint (I know, noxious fumes and all) or just black paint for a first coat before adding the duratex. I noticed that I needed multiple coats of duratex when I painted my speakers because I added water to thin it out for a smoother finish.

I've been quietly reading through your thread for the past few days and I'm finding myself getting excited like it's MY friggin build! You need to get this thing wrapped up so I can hear your thoughts on the final results.

But seriously, I read where one of the members used spray paint as a base layer for duratex and it didn't adhere too well. If I can find the thread I'll share it, if not, well just food for thought. If I remember correctly he mentioned that the spray paint didn't allow the duratex to bond/cure the way it should have. Could have been a multitude of reasons why, but just thought I'd throw that out there.

I too had to roll on 2 coats of duratex on my 1299's. Thing is, I didn't thin the paint at all, but after one coat they just didn't look...'finished' enough to me. Granted, I'm not the world's greatest painter but I was surprised that I had to go back for a 2nd coat given all of the praise it gets for easy coverage.

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post #22 of 79 Old 11-18-2016, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been quietly reading through your thread for the past few days and I'm finding myself getting excited like it's MY friggin build! You need to get this thing wrapped up so I can hear your thoughts on the final results.

But seriously, I read where one of the members used spray paint as a base layer for duratex and it didn't adhere too well. If I can find the thread I'll share it, if not, well just food for thought. If I remember correctly he mentioned that the spray paint didn't allow the duratex to bond/cure the way it should have. Could have been a multitude of reasons why, but just thought I'd throw that out there.

I too had to roll on 2 coats of duratex on my 1299's. Thing is, I didn't thin the paint at all, but after one coat they just didn't look...'finished' enough to me. Granted, I'm not the world's greatest painter but I was surprised that I had to go back for a 2nd coat given all of the praise it gets for easy coverage.

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Thanks. That's good to know. I don't recall if I did two or three coats on my 1099s but the brown MDF still showed in some places after the first coat.
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post #23 of 79 Old 11-20-2016, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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After checking out @Jk7.2 's setup, I had some motivation. So, I set up an assembly line this weekend and made some progress on the Cyclops subs (in addition to my other build - the primed smaller boxes in the below pic). I made a grave miscalculation with the vinyl spackling. I failed to take into account the amount of dust sanding the spackling would disperse in the air. As a result, I was unable to sand the Cyclops subs to the extent I otherwise would have. Additionally, now everything in my HT is covered with a thin layer of vinyl spackling. Good thing I'm using duratex on these bad boys. Otherwise, some of the spackled areas would perhaps be visible. Thanks, @brian6751 , for the extra duratex. Below are some pics of the progress.



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post #24 of 79 Old 11-20-2016, 10:30 PM
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Looking good, man! Keep up the great work!

I too found out the hard way that any sanding or cutting of material, no matter how it's done, generates absolutely STUPID amounts of dust. When you perform the exact same operations outside or in the garage you don't see all that microscopic crap that hangs in the air. So you say "Well....this isn't bad at ALL! Think I will take this assembly line inside!" And you think you're so smart. :roll: Heheh, been there, man. It's not 30 seconds after you finish cutting that matters. It's roughly 8 hours later, the next day, when you get up, walk into the room and go "Whaaaa...WTF? Did I leave a window open? This dust was NOT here last night!" Actually, the dust WAS THERE last night; it was just suspended mid-air. And in your lungs...

So yeah, don't do woodworking of any kind in the house.
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post #25 of 79 Old 11-21-2016, 09:53 AM
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Nice!
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post #26 of 79 Old 11-21-2016, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicTorious1 View Post
After checking out @Jk7.2 's setup, I had some motivation. So, I set up an assembly line this weekend and made some progress on the Cyclops subs (in addition to my other build - the primed smaller boxes in the below pic). I made a grave miscalculation with the vinyl spackling. I failed to take into account the amount of dust sanding the spackling would disperse in the air. As a result, I was unable to sand the Cyclops subs to the extent I otherwise would have. Additionally, now everything in my HT is covered with a thin layer of vinyl spackling. Good thing I'm using duratex on these bad boys. Otherwise, some of the spackled areas would perhaps be visible. Thanks, @brian6751 , for the extra duratex. Below are some pics of the progress.


Looking sweet. It was nice meeting up with you guys. I'm glad my setup motivated you to keep at it! Glad we were able to get together, I can't wait to experience your setup!
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post #27 of 79 Old 11-26-2016, 02:13 PM
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Hi, can you share the cut list for Cyclops subs and the nearfield MBMs
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post #28 of 79 Old 11-26-2016, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi, can you share the cut list for Cyclops subs and the nearfield MBMs
Sure can. When I'm in front of my computer I'll dig it out.
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post #29 of 79 Old 11-26-2016, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I was able to finish these Cyclops subs before Thanksgiving. Still have to break out the Umik once I hang my acoustic panels and bass traps. I'll be putting the Stonehenges on top one I've got a buddy willing to swing by. The Mrs didn't care to lift them.

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Looking great. You'll have to do a g2g when you get everything dialed in. So how do you like the 1099s I almost got them before I found the deal on the qcs 2150s
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