Originally Posted by HFGuy
That's what this community is for.
BTW I use big zipties to secure the inductors, not glue.
I'm OCD, so I'm planning to use both. Glue to get it in place, then zip tie to keep it there. That's my plan for everything big/heavy enough that I worry about it moving as the driver thrashes.
Originally Posted by ja00
1. Make sure you peel the insulation off the inductors before you solder them. Exposed wires should be visible from the top side to guarantee you have soldered bare wire on the bottom side of the board. It is ok to bend the wires up on the inductors a little bit to not have the insulated part on the hole.
3. Try to mount the capacitors so that the values are visible. This will come in handy later IF you need to troubleshoot.
1. I knew that the insulation had to be out of the way, but didn't even know I could remove it. I was just planning to pull them back out 'til a non-insulated part was poking thru.
3. Definitely, that's why the stickers are still on some of them! At least 'til after I solder.
One thing I noticed in your picture was that you had the zip ties over the fabric wrapping the inductor. Is that coincidence/looks/preference, or necessary?
Originally Posted by michaelddd
Looking good. It's smart of you to do a dry fit and see what goes where and how things fit together. The dry fit allows you to fine-tune braces and placement of things. That cautious methodology will serve you well in this hobby.
I like the bracing; simple yet effective. I will probably use a variant of it in my sub builds. IMO, people tend to over-think bracing. This isn't engineering of a 2-mile-long cable suspension bridge or some other incredibly complicated and sensitive structure.
Take your time with the crossovers; you've received excellent advice so far. If in doubt, STOP, take a picture or two and ask. IME, the two most important things when soldering crossovers together are ensuring a good solder joint and avoiding solder bridges. Of course, having the correct components in the correct place goes without saying!
Thanks! The dry-fit is more of a necessity, since I had no measurements on the baffle and KNEW there was a 1/1000000 chance that I'd guess right. The bracing isn't really my idea, I just checked out some build threads, the pictures on DIY Soundgroup, and re-created them. Credit there goes really to Erich.
Originally Posted by HFGuy
Best solder advice I can give after teaching hundred of baby engineers of the years - Use the joint to melt the solder, not the soldering iron itself.
Good call, thanks! I watched mtg90's video a bunch of times, but didn't notice he was intentionally doing that 'til you mentioned it.
Originally Posted by VicTorious1
Personally, I didn't let any of the colored/red insulated part of the wires enter into the holes. I had only the exposed portion of the wire enter the holes. It makes for easier soldering and less of a need to troubleshoot later in order to check that you properly removed all of the insulation before soldering. Ja00's pic is a good example.
Another good tip, thanks!
All of this stuff should make the build simpler, and I think I'm going to have to take more pics if I want this thread to serve as a "Idiots Guide to Your First Speaker Build".
Thanks for all the comments and help, please keep 'em coming!!