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post #1 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Jumping into DIY

FINISHED PICS IN POST 74

******************************************

After weeks (months really) of thinking, measuring, browsing, talking with @lukeamdman and @Rowan611 , and thinking some more, I am going to jump into the world of DIY.

Attached is a pic of my space as it currently exists.

I have an open, “L” shaped basement with the HT taking up the small part of the L. With 7.5’ ceilings, the total space is roughly 3600 cu ft. The HT section is pretty small - side to side is just under 12’, and the back of the couch to the front wall is just under 11’.

My long term plan is 4 subs, LCR and surrounds – 2 subs up front to replace the SVS cylinders, and 2 nearfield behind the MLP. Right now I have decided on 4 sealed UM18 flatpacks from PE and am currently leaning towards DIYSG 893’s and Volt 6’s for LCR and surrounds. Finishing options are still up in the air, but right now I am thinking about a cherry veneer to match the rest of the doors/trim in the room.

I will start with the 2 nearfield subs first. I’ll also be building a faux cabinet (open towards the couch) to hide the nearfield subs. I still want to keep these as two separate boxes so I have different placement options in the future.

So for initial big purchases, I will buy a couple of UM18/flatpack combos from PE, an inuke 6000, and a balanced minidsp. (I will get another inuke for the 2nd set of subs when the time comes)

This past weekend I updated my electrical service in my equipment closet with two 20 amp circuits (for the inukes) to go along with the 15 amp circuit that powers the rest of my equipment.

I consider myself somewhat handy and have built a few simple pieces of furniture in the past, so the process of building and finishing some boxes is not an issue for me. I'm sure I'll have a few problems along the way, but finding the time is more concerning than the actual building, to be honest.

So my question to all of you fine folks is to ask if I am forgetting or overlooking something major. Is there anything I’ve said (or not said) the warrants concern before I pull the trigger on this first round of purchases?

Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
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I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build

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post #2 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kuester View Post
After weeks (months really) of thinking, measuring, browsing, talking with @lukeamdman and @Rowan611 , and thinking some more, I am going to jump into the world of DIY.

Attached is a pic of my space as it currently exists.

I have an open, “L” shaped basement with the HT taking up the small part of the L. With 7.5’ ceilings, the total space is roughly 3600 cu ft. The HT section is pretty small - side to side is just under 12’, and the back of the couch to the front wall is just under 11’.

My long term plan is 4 subs, LCR and surrounds – 2 subs up front to replace the SVS cylinders, and 2 nearfield behind the MLP. Right now I have decided on 4 sealed UM18 flatpacks from PE and am currently leaning towards DIYSG 893’s and Volt 6’s for LCR and surrounds. Finishing options are still up in the air, but right now I am thinking about a cherry veneer to match the rest of the doors/trim in the room.

I will start with the 2 nearfield subs first. I’ll also be building a faux cabinet (open towards the couch) to hide the nearfield subs. I still want to keep these as two separate boxes so I have different placement options in the future.

So for initial big purchases, I will buy a couple of UM18/flatpack combos from PE, an inuke 6000, and a balanced minidsp. (I will get another inuke for the 2nd set of subs when the time comes)

This past weekend I updated my electrical service in my equipment closet with two 20 amp circuits (for the inukes) to go along with the 15 amp circuit that powers the rest of my equipment.

I consider myself somewhat handy and have built a few simple pieces of furniture in the past, so the process of building and finishing some boxes is not an issue for me. I'm sure I'll have a few problems along the way, but finding the time is more concerning than the actual building, to be honest.

So my question to all of you fine folks is to ask if I am forgetting or overlooking something major. Is there anything I’ve said (or not said) the warrants concern before I pull the trigger on this first round of purchases?

Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
sounds pretty good. what will you be using for the processor/avr ?

I too have 893's as front mains (made them as ported towers) and the volt 6's (4 of them for ceiling duty) and fusion 4's for surrounds, center and wides and surround back. started off with 2 @ 15" sealed rythmik diy units (actually performed rather well). I added two more sealed 12" just behind and off to the side of my couch (would have made all 15's but already had one of the 12's). My room is 13 x 28 x 8 and mlp is at approx 12'. this room is semi opened to a 12 x 15 area.

typically, I do not play movies all that loud. but, just last night went to the opening of "edge of tomorrow" and it just about shook one of my lamps off the table.

may be that your first 2 18" subs will totally work without adding any more (although I am not what you would call a bass freak)

your setup should make you real happy.

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post #3 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 11:48 AM
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Hey Steve. Glad to see you taking the DIY plunge. I think starting with the two nearfileds is a good idea. As long as you are aware they will dominate the SVSs in every conceivable fashion. So, you may want to consider taking the SVSs out of the equation. But, you won't really know until you get the UM18s into the mix. Also, why 18 vs the 15s we were talking about at Richs house? Bigger is better, just curious as to why?

Also, the balanced mini is a good idea. You'll need balanced to RCAs for your recevier (don't buy any, I have 7; you're more than welcome to all or a few of them). Do you currently have a mic and REW? If not, I would recommend picking one up and learning REW. Only then will you be able to properly integrate the 18s.

As for the LCR. Is there a reason for the 893 vs the 1099? The efficiency of the 1099 would be worth the little bit extra they cost; especially if your driving them off a receiver.

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post #4 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccssid123 View Post
sounds pretty good. what will you be using for the processor/avr ?

I too have 893's as front mains (made them as ported towers) and the volt 6's (4 of them for ceiling duty) and fusion 4's for surrounds, center and wides and surround back. started off with 2 @ 15" sealed rythmik diy units (actually performed rather well). I added two more sealed 12" just behind and off to the side of my couch (would have made all 15's but already had one of the 12's). My room is 13 x 28 x 8 and mlp is at approx 12'. this room is semi opened to a 12 x 15 area.

typically, I do not play movies all that loud. but, just last night went to the opening of "edge of tomorrow" and it just about shook one of my lamps off the table.

may be that your first 2 18" subs will totally work without adding any more (although I am not what you would call a bass freak)

your setup should make you real happy.


My current AVR is a Denon 3312. I power all 5 of my NHT's with a Rotel RMB-1075 - (120W x 5). I will be sticking with the 3312 for a year or two before I upgrade to Atmos.


I may have questions for you about the 893's when the time comes.


thanks,
steve
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I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build
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post #5 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowan611 View Post
Hey Steve. Glad to see you taking the DIY plunge. I think starting with the two nearfileds is a good idea. As long as you are aware they will dominate the SVSs in every conceivable fashion. So, you may want to consider taking the SVSs out of the equation. But, you won't really know until you get the UM18s into the mix. Also, why 18 vs the 15s we were talking about at Richs house? Bigger is better, just curious as to why?

Also, the balanced mini is a good idea. You'll need balanced to RCAs for your recevier (don't buy any, I have 7; you're more than welcome to all or a few of them). Do you currently have a mic and REW? If not, I would recommend picking one up and learning REW. Only then will you be able to properly integrate the 18s.

As for the LCR. Is there a reason for the 893 vs the 1099? The efficiency of the 1099 would be worth the little bit extra they cost; especially if your driving them off a receiver.

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll be able to figure out a few things subwoofer wise once I get these first two up and running. As far as the 18 vs 15, the box for the 18's isn't that much bigger, and I didn't want to wonder if I should have done more. I'm assuming I should be able to get pretty good response with 4 properly dialed in.


Yes, I have a mic and REW. I do need to learn REW a bit more though. I'm sure I'll have plenty of opportunities in the months ahead.


As for the 893's vs 1099's... I don't have the dimensions handy, but based on the size of my front wall and HT area, I just think the 1099's will be too big. And I guess I'm not terribly concerned with efficiency at this point just because I remember seeing that my current NHT towers measured at 85.5dB in a review I saw a while back. So even the 893's will be a big step up in terms of efficiency from what I have (and enjoy) now. I have a Rotel 120Wx5 amp that I use to drive my NHT's. Unless I should be more concerned with 93 vs 99dB efficiency?

I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build
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post #6 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kuester View Post
Yeah, I'm thinking I'll be able to figure out a few things subwoofer wise once I get these first two up and running. As far as the 18 vs 15, the box for the 18's isn't that much bigger, and I didn't want to wonder if I should have done more. I'm assuming I should be able to get pretty good response with 4 properly dialed in.


Yes, I have a mic and REW. I do need to learn REW a bit more though. I'm sure I'll have plenty of opportunities in the months ahead.


As for the 893's vs 1099's... I don't have the dimensions handy, but based on the size of my front wall and HT area, I just think the 1099's will be too big. And I guess I'm not terribly concerned with efficiency at this point just because I remember seeing that my current NHT towers measured at 85.5dB in a review I saw a while back. So even the 893's will be a big step up in terms of efficiency from what I have (and enjoy) now. I have a Rotel 120Wx5 amp that I use to drive my NHT's. Unless I should be more concerned with 93 vs 99dB efficiency?

No, with the Rotel you should be fine. I forgot you had the Rotel. It's good that you have a mic and REW. That'll be a huge help with 4 subs.

Looking forward to your build man!
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post #7 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 03:35 PM
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Sounds like a great plan. Judging by your current setup and listening habits the speakers you've settled on sound perfect. Why go bigger and spend more if you don't need it?
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post #8 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 04:37 PM
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Your "JUMP" seems to be even more prepared than :

congrats
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post #9 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 05:23 PM
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I'd move the SVS to be the nearfields and use the UMs up front.
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post #10 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd move the SVS to be the nearfields and use the UMs up front.
I was initially considering moving a cylinder behind the couch with a couple 18's in front as you suggest, but I know it would always be in the back of my mind that my subs are not all identical.

So the first two subs I'm building will go behind the couch, and then the next two will go up front and replace the cylinders. I am assuming I will be better at finishing after practicing on the first two, so the 3rd and 4th should look a bit more professional.

Hopefully there will not be much time between finishing the first 2 and starting the 2nd set.

I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build
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post #11 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 07:23 PM
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Love my 893's and volt 6's. Good choice. Check my build links in case you need ideas.
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post #12 of 107 Old 12-05-2016, 08:19 PM
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Looking forward to how this turns out, Steve! You won't regret going DIY.
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post #13 of 107 Old 12-09-2016, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick question about inuke NU6000 vs NU4-6000 driving 2 UM18's...


I've done a bit of reading this morning, and as I understand it either amp will work for this situation? Bridging the NU4-6000 to two channels basically makes it a NU6000, correct?

I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


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post #14 of 107 Old 12-09-2016, 07:42 AM
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Quick question about inuke NU6000 vs NU4-6000 driving 2 UM18's...


I've done a bit of reading this morning, and as I understand it either amp will work for this situation? Bridging the NU4-6000 to two channels basically makes it a NU6000, correct?
Yes.
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Seems like a great jump into the DIY arena. One thing i might do differently is get the Behringer iNuke 6000DSP and drop the miniDSP. I know the value and utility of the miniDSP but for someone just getting into the crazy DIY world an integrated solution can save a lot of aggrivation. With sealed subs the need for a HPF is eliminated with judicious enclosure design. Just my 2 cents.....

Others may have different experience, but in my space the REW eq calculator has never had me set a DSP setting below the 20 Hz capacity of the iNuke's. The software on the iNuke is super easy to use and eliminates potential noise issues that can creep in with the miniDSP.

If you have an experienced member nearby who can lend a hand, then the miniDSP is a great solution. Nothing against the miniDSP as they are fantastic.

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post #16 of 107 Old 12-09-2016, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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@NWCgrad - Thanks for the info. If I was going with just 2 subs and 1 inuke I would most likely do what you suggest and go with DSP on the amp. But with 4 subs and 2 amps upon completion I'm thinking it will be easier in the long run to go with a minidsp.

I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


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post #17 of 107 Old 01-13-2017, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Just a quick update for anyone who may be interested.


I am deviating from my initial plan in the first post, instead of starting with 2 UM18 flatpacks I just went ahead with all 4. I started on the cabs last week, and I finished gluing the first two last night. I will start on the next two either tonight or this weekend.


Also, Fedex says my three 893's and two Volt 6's will be delivered today.


I figured winter in MN is a good time to stay inside, watch the Wild, and assemble cabinets - so I just bought everything all at once. At this point I am thinking I will do the finishing and veneering once it gets warmer as I don't have a heated garage.


I don't have the discipline that many of you guys do when it comes to taking pictures during the process, so I am not going to be chronicling the build or anything like that. But I will try to check back in with updates every now and again. And any questions too, of course.
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post #18 of 107 Old 01-13-2017, 08:37 AM
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Nice! I wish I had your drive and commitment (and bank roll) to make a decision like this. Im still hmming and hahhing on which single sub route to go down. But living in Canada I can share you sentiments on staying inside, watching hockey and assembling cab's. Congrats on your purchase!!
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post #19 of 107 Old 01-13-2017, 07:37 PM
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Whereabouts are you in MN? I'm in ND, myself, so can definitely attest to staying inside this winter!


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post #20 of 107 Old 01-13-2017, 08:26 PM
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I am deviating from my initial plan in the first post, instead of starting with 2 UM18 flatpacks I just went ahead with all 4.
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post #21 of 107 Old 01-14-2017, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kuester View Post
Just a quick update for anyone who may be interested.


I am deviating from my initial plan in the first post, instead of starting with 2 UM18 flatpacks I just went ahead with all 4. I started on the cabs last week, and I finished gluing the first two last night. I will start on the next two either tonight or this weekend.


Also, Fedex says my three 893's and two Volt 6's will be delivered today.


I figured winter in MN is a good time to stay inside, watch the Wild, and assemble cabinets - so I just bought everything all at once. At this point I am thinking I will do the finishing and veneering once it gets warmer as I don't have a heated garage.


I don't have the discipline that many of you guys do when it comes to taking pictures during the process, so I am not going to be chronicling the build or anything like that. But I will try to check back in with updates every now and again. And any questions too, of course.
Nice deviation. I'll have to make a trip up when you're all done man. Sounds like it's going to be killer. Really interested in hearing the 893s.

Typed on a little keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.

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post #22 of 107 Old 01-30-2017, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Another update...


All 4 subwoofer cabs are assembled, and I have started on the 893s. This week I will be ordering the minidsp, along with the additional speaker wire needed for the addition of the two nearfield subs. That should be the last of the major purchases. And I still need to decide how I am going to finish them.


I also started on the crossovers for the volt 6's and the 893's. I bought the PCBs for the 893's from @ja00 and I am glad I went this way instead of using perf-board.


I had some help populating the boards, though. Each kid got to do one 893 board and one volt 6 board. They did a good job, and I am glad they wanted to help.


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I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build
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post #23 of 107 Old 02-01-2017, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm assuming I am just a nervous first timer with this question, but I am going to ask it anyway. On the compression drivers for the 893s, 2 of the 3 have dried glue on the screen that does not seem to scrape off with a fingernail. (I did not scrape very hard) It looks like glue for the gasket ended up on the screen.


Is this something that would actually affect the sound from the driver just couple inches below?









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I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


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post #24 of 107 Old 02-01-2017, 11:17 AM
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That's not a problem. Almost all of those screens will have something like that due to how they're made, including B&C, Celestion, etc. But it's extremely small. Your picture makes it look bigger, but when you compare it with the size of the small screws, it puts it into perspective a bit better. The larger looking white areas are the reflection of the diaphragm inside.

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post #26 of 107 Old 02-01-2017, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply Erich. I know it is small, I almost didn't bother asking the question because of how small those glue spots were. The fact that they are so close to the driver (therefore potentially blocking a larger area in front of the driver) is what made me ask. If that bit of glue was a foot in front of the driver it obviously wouldn't even be worth asking. But the proximity to the driver made me wonder.


But if you say it is good I will go with that. Thanks again.

I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build
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post #27 of 107 Old 02-23-2017, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm wondering if this is something I should be concerned with. The gasket on one of my UM18's looks to be really poorly applied. I tried to get a pic last night, but I don't think it really shows the issue all that well. From the picture it looks like it might seal on the edge closest to the driver, but there is a definite gap where the ends of the gasket meet.





Even if I run another gasket (which I was planning on doing anyway) that channel will still be there under my new gasket allowing air to leak. At least that is what I think.


So what, if anything, should I do about this? Cut out that section of gasket and replace? Fill the gap with something?


Just curious what you all think about this.
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I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build
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post #28 of 107 Old 02-23-2017, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kuester View Post
I'm wondering if this is something I should be concerned with. The gasket on one of my UM18's looks to be really poorly applied. I tried to get a pic last night, but I don't think it really shows the issue all that well. From the picture it looks like it might seal on the edge closest to the driver, but there is a definite gap where the ends of the gasket meet.





Even if I run another gasket (which I was planning on doing anyway) that channel will still be there under my new gasket allowing air to leak. At least that is what I think.


So what, if anything, should I do about this? Cut out that section of gasket and replace? Fill the gap with something?


Just curious what you all think about this.
I'd pull that stock gasket off and apply my own.
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post #29 of 107 Old 02-23-2017, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Yep, that's probably the safest bet. I'll have to take a closer look at the gaskets on the other 3 drivers and see how well they were applied.

I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


Jumping into DIY - My 893, Volt 6, and UM18(x4) build
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post #30 of 107 Old 02-23-2017, 05:56 PM
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How's the progress?

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