Swapped my HT-18's for UM-18's, question on new amp to power them - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 111 Old 12-21-2016, 01:12 PM
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I'll just throw in this hand grenade . I run 4 ht 18s on a single inuke 3000DSP. All four boxes are 12 cubes tuned to 17/18 hz and corner loaded. I can play reference including REW sweeps at reference (115db) without breaking a sweat. Theoretically running the numbers in WinISD at around 200w per sub and all corner loaded I should be able to hit over 120db. That I will never ever know. -3 at around 14hz. Lots of room gain being corner loaded of course. Reference is flat out scary and the room is pressurized like it's breathing.

I do need to get a second inuke as my front pair are in phase with each other but because of my rear entrance my back two or slightly out. I'd like to fix that which of course means I have to be able to adjust phase between that pair.

Sealed I'd definitely want a 6000dsp per pair in my size room.
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post #62 of 111 Old 12-24-2016, 05:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I just snagged a 6k dsp off eBay for real $280 shipped to try out. Hopefully this amazes me. Now I just gotta sell my 3k. Soooo many window shoppers already driving me crazy

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post #63 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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So my 6kDSP came in yesterday and the shipper did not package it well and bent one of the ears and broke the screws out in that area. I turned it on for good measure and sounded pretty good initially, however the power off pop along with the damage and some other concerns caused me to send this back.

So back to the drawing board.
Now a question arises. . . do the newer 6K DSP's all do this power off pop when triggering power from a different source (IE: not using the power button on the amp)? If so, I may need to try something else.

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post #64 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post
So my 6kDSP came in yesterday and the shipper did not package it well and bent one of the ears and broke the screws out in that area. I turned it on for good measure and sounded pretty good initially, however the power off pop along with the damage and some other concerns caused me to send this back.

So back to the drawing board.
Now a question arises. . . do the newer 6K DSP's all do this power off pop when triggering power from a different source (IE: not using the power button on the amp)? If so, I may need to try something else.
Yes, all inuke 6000DSP's have it.

The only workaround for remote triggering:
1) 12v relay mod - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...own-thump.html
2) @ahmedreda discovered this solution with the microbot push - https://prota.info/microbot/push/
3) get the inuke 6000 non-DSP version (no power off thump) and use a miniDSP 2x4 balanced
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post #65 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, all inuke 6000DSP's have it.

The only workaround for remote triggering:
1) 12v relay mod - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...own-thump.html
2) @ahmedreda discovered this solution with the microbot push - https://prota.info/microbot/push/
3) get the inuke 6000 non-DSP version (no power off thump) and use a miniDSP 2x4 balanced
See I thought that as well from what I read on here, but the facebook HT groups I am on and mentioned this, everyone acted like I was crazy and no one that has the 6kDSP's have heard or had this pop.

I wouldnt even know where to begin with hooking up that external DSP. Ill have to google some more. Does it go inline with amp itself? or to the AVR?

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post #66 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post
See I thought that as well from what I read on here, but the facebook HT groups I am on and mentioned this, everyone acted like I was crazy and no one that has the 6kDSP's have heard or had this pop.

I wouldnt even know where to begin with hooking up that external DSP. Ill have to google some more. Does it go inline with amp itself? or to the AVR?
Well, there wouldn't be any pop with the inuke6000dsp if you used the button to turn it off. But if you unplug the power socket from the wall while the inuke6000dsp is on, it'll thump - it's equivalent to using a smart strip, etc.

Google minidsp 2x4, tons of helpful info from the manufacturer. It'll go receiver sub out -> minidsp 2x4 input -> minidsp output -> amp. It takes ~15mins to implement.
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post #67 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks. Ill check it out. Ill see if I can find some videos.

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post #68 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 01:16 PM
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I have 7 I Nuke DSP amps and no pops. Pop goes the weasel and the weasel goes pop.
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post #69 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post
I have 7 I Nuke DSP amps and no pops. Pop goes the weasel and the weasel goes pop.
6ks? I've read a bunch on here complaining of it
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post #70 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 02:49 PM
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Mine pops but they go through 2 monster av2000 centers. I went from clone to 6k and lost nothing, just build the subs correctly to not need so much power. I also have a peavy ipr2 7500.
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post #71 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 02:52 PM
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I have 7 I Nuke DSP amps and no pops. Pop goes the weasel and the weasel goes pop.
Go pull the plugs out of the wall while they are running and they will all pop. That's equivalent to what our smart power strips are doing. I've had six inuke dsp 6000 both old and new revision and they all pop.

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post #72 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Mine pops but they go through 2 monster av2000 centers. I went from clone to 6k and lost nothing, just build the subs correctly to not need so much power. I also have a peavy ipr2 7500.
So if my box is right I don't need more than the 500 w per sub I am currently pushing? Lol

I looked at the peavey and crest also but the dsp seems weak. I'd prefer to not jump up double in price and then on top of it have to screw with spending more on a dsp, figure it out on special wiring and then end up with noise from another unit added to the mix.

Wish there were more options with dsp that was useful
Looks like crown has a nice dsp in the xti, but otherwise heard the amps blow for sub use.
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post #73 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 03:42 PM
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I just have the amps plugged into the wall on 4 different circuit. I'm not going to pull the plug from the wall with the amps on, lol. Maybe I'm lucky not to have that issue.
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post #74 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I just have the amps plugged into the wall on 4 different circuit. I'm not going to pull the plug from the wall with the amps on, lol. Maybe I'm lucky not to have that issue.
So you use the power button to **** them off manually then?
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post #75 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 05:02 PM
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I just have the amps plugged into the wall on 4 different circuit. I'm not going to pull the plug from the wall with the amps on, lol. Maybe I'm lucky not to have that issue.
Well that's what we are talking about here. My amps don't pop either if I push the power button on the front.

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post #76 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 05:13 PM
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So if my box is right I don't need more than the 500 w per sub I am currently pushing? Lol

I looked at the peavey and crest also but the dsp seems weak. I'd prefer to not jump up double in price and then on top of it have to screw with spending more on a dsp, figure it out on special wiring and then end up with noise from another unit added to the mix.

Wish there were more options with dsp that was useful
Looks like crown has a nice dsp in the xti, but otherwise heard the amps blow for sub use.
If you're adamant in having a built in DSP, you can always get 2 x inuke3000dsp's. Those don't thump.
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post #77 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 05:13 PM
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Well that's what we are talking about here. My amps don't pop either if I push the power button on the front.
My 6k popped when manually pressing the power button. I've NEVER pulled the power cable from the wall to cause the pop (who does that anyway??). For some reason when I grounded the amp the pop ceased also.

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post #78 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 05:14 PM - Thread Starter
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That's what I have now. I wanted more power. If I did another 3k I'd add 2 more subs. I'd rather underdrive 4 I guess than 2 lol
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post #79 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 05:50 PM
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My 6k popped when manually pressing the power button. I've NEVER pulled the power cable from the wall to cause the pop (who does that anyway??). For some reason when I grounded the amp the pop ceased also.

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Some how somethings getting lost here. EVERYONE that uses any sort of smart power switch so they don't have to push the power buttons on the front side of their amp to power them down is effectively pulling the plug out of the wall in the way a smart switch works. So whether you have a monster power conditioner or a green smart strip or a diy 12 volt trigger - They all work the same way. You aren't goin to hurt it --- it just makes a popping sound when the live plug is pulled that way. The inuke dsp 6000s do anyway. The inuke 3000 dsp does not. This has been discussed in several different threads already over the last couple years.

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post #80 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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To my defense, I haven't posted here in almost 2 yrs. this amp wasn't even out in the market the last time I posted here.
That being said I don't like popping. Call me silly but I don't like spending money on things and having to settle for quarks like that.
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post #81 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 06:11 PM
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I'll just throw in this hand grenade . I run 4 ht 18s on a single inuke 3000DSP. All four boxes are 12 cubes tuned to 17/18 hz and corner loaded. I can play reference including REW sweeps at reference (115db) without breaking a sweat. Theoretically running the numbers in WinISD at around 200w per sub and all corner loaded I should be able to hit over 120db. That I will never ever know. -3 at around 14hz. Lots of room gain being corner loaded of course. Reference is flat out scary and the room is pressurized like it's breathing.

I do need to get a second inuke as my front pair are in phase with each other but because of my rear entrance my back two or slightly out. I'd like to fix that which of course means I have to be able to adjust phase between that pair.

Sealed I'd definitely want a 6000dsp per pair in my size room.
So, this is almost exactly the setup I'm looking at. I bought 4 of the SI HT18D2s. Originally I was going to use a pair of them with the virtual organ I'm building, but then I changed my mind and will take my current sonotube subs (4 X 30W100 Dynaudio) and use those with the organ and use the 4 SI HT18D2s in the home theater. But then I got confused a little bit because I kind of wanted to drive a 4 ohm load (and 2 per channel would either be 2 or 8 ohm) because that is the lowest impedance that the Pioneer Elite AV receiver I'm looking at will drive. When I was reading through the manual, the subs turn out to be a low-level output anyway, so combining the AV receiver with the sub amp that can drive a lower impedance shouldn't pose too much of a problem [I guess]. What I was trying to figure out was whether the single inuke 3000DSP would be enough to drive the 4 SI HT18D2s, since it is supposed to be stable to 2 ohms (bleeding from my eardrums or pealing paint is not a requirement!).

My current intention (unless there is something really wrong with it) is to put the (4) 18 inch drivers on top of my built-in cabinets in front of the family room (above the Samsung 64" plasma) ala xxxMarty. The built-ins are full-width and about 2 foot short of the roof. I was thinking to plug the space between the cabinet and roof with sub-woofer box(es). I believe putting the subs right up into the corner and spread across the width should give me a bit of room re-enforcement. My room is about 3600 ft^3 (21'L x 17'W x 10'H) and mostly open to the rear another 12-14 ft [which may not be ideal, but it is what it is].

I'm also looking for some DIY speakers for the rest of it (still struggling with whether to use 7.2.4 or 9.2.4)

So, I'm open to any suggestions on room size versed number of subs, amp adequacy, sub placement etc. Unfortunately sometimes, for those of limited means and wives, there WILL be compromises! Cheers, and thanks!
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post #82 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 06:13 PM
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Yes, I just use the power button to turn them on and off. When I only had two amps hooked up to my Rocketfish power console, the amps would power on with the system and I did not use the power button. The console powered things on in a certain order and there was no popping. I had the Harmony tech support help with this since the avr power amp made a slight popping noise upon turning the system on.
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post #83 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post
To my defense, I haven't posted here in almost 2 yrs. this amp wasn't even out in the market the last time I posted here.
That being said I don't like popping. Call me silly but I don't like spending money on things and having to settle for quarks like that.
Yeah, quarks make me super angry as well -- quirks I can live with, but once they cross the line into quarkdom... you don't want to see me when I'm angry!
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post #84 of 111 Old 12-30-2016, 06:36 PM
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If you don't like quirks you'll be paying 3x the money to eliminate them and the performance delta will be largely moot.

For that reason I decided I can handle a pop if I'm too lazy to get up and push the power down button.

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post #85 of 111 Old 12-31-2016, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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If you don't like quirks you'll be paying 3x the money to eliminate them and the performance delta will be largely moot.

For that reason I decided I can handle a pop if I'm too lazy to get up and push the power down button.

So back to the age old question...... what amp has power and good for subs that dig low and has a dsp worth a damn built in
3x the money for a better package with more power and better warranty may be worth it to me at this point.

I don't feel I need to deal with popping. My stuff is rack mounted. I don't want to have to walk across the room to open my rack and power down when all my other stuff is done by activity
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post #86 of 111 Old 12-31-2016, 08:34 AM
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it's already been said.

Buy a Crown amp with dsp.

This ought to be comparable

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/deta...FQqUaQod484BPA

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Last edited by Archaea; 12-31-2016 at 08:41 AM.
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post #87 of 111 Old 12-31-2016, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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I looked at those and was set on getting one but reviews showed these blow for sub use. I forget his name but the guy with like **** tons of 18's all over his room on here ran them and basically the jhist I got was they sucked.

Anyone with experience with these before I blow a grand on one to try it out?
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post #88 of 111 Old 12-31-2016, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post
I looked at those and was set on getting one but reviews showed these blow for sub use. I forget his name but the guy with like **** tons of 18's all over his room on here ran them and basically the jhist I got was they sucked.

Anyone with experience with these before I blow a grand on one to try it out?
Hmmm. I must have missed that --- Link?

Edit found your link page two. That's for a different series xti (first gen) this is second gen and the larger opinion in that thread appeared to be that the particular amp tested was faulty. Generally crown is accepted as a good amp in the pro audio community from what I've ever heard. Our church uses a rack full of them and they are all about 20 years old and all work perfectly with out a single issue out of any of them.

Even if the ULF performance isn't strong (that's if) on the XTI x2 (<20hz) you have a ported box tuned to about ~20 hz. So it won't matter to your box alignment.

You've had other options recommended too: speakerpower being a solid (even pricier) recommendation.

I have a certain vega cv-5000 that is a battle tank of an amp (90lbs) and could easily drive four um18-22. Pick your own dsp.

My friend @carp uses a single cv-5000 to drive 8 si 18ht subs with a mini dsp for EQ. He has one of the most impressive bass systems I've ever heard.

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Last edited by Archaea; 12-31-2016 at 09:01 AM.
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post #89 of 111 Old 12-31-2016, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes there were other options that did not have dsp. I was looking for a nuke replacement with a solid dsp like the nuke but less quarks and better quality.
I think bassthathz maybe had a few of them? Is he the dude with tons of 18's scattered all over his room and amps all over?

I really didn't want to do an external dsp as I do not want to make cables and potentially introduce noise. I am rather novice in my skill level also, and a lot of these threads get over my head fairly quickly. Simple and effective may be better for me.
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post #90 of 111 Old 12-31-2016, 04:21 PM
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Swapped my HT-18's for UM-18's, question on new amp to power them

Quote:
Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post
So my 6kDSP came in yesterday and the shipper did not package it well and bent one of the ears and broke the screws out in that area. I turned it on for good measure and sounded pretty good initially, however the power off pop along with the damage and some other concerns caused me to send this back.



So back to the drawing board.

Now a question arises. . . do the newer 6K DSP's all do this power off pop when triggering power from a different source (IE: not using the power button on the amp)? If so, I may need to try something else.


Mine does a loud power on thud when using the front panel power button.

Last edited by MattSPL; 12-31-2016 at 04:26 PM.
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