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post #151 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 09:44 AM
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With a full size (4' x 8') CNC like he has, I'd imagine he has a full-size (1.5HP or better) dust collector, maybe even with a cyclone/separator. Would be curious to know as well.
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post #152 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 10:01 AM
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I downsized to a portable table saw when we moved and the hepa vac is interesting because it has higher static pressure and is supposed to be better suited for small tools, portable saw, etc. Not sure where the cnc router would come in.

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post #153 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 10:36 AM
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The really clean space you see is @dsl1 gym.

The dust collector for the CNC is a Clearvue CV1800. 5HP motor with a big cyclone and 6inch ducting to the shroud at the cutter.

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Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post
With a full size (4' x 8') CNC like he has, I'd imagine he has a full-size (1.5HP or better) dust collector, maybe even with a cyclone/separator. Would be curious to know as well.
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Last edited by baniels; 01-21-2017 at 05:59 PM.
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post #154 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kutlow77 View Post
would my amp have enough for a 21IPAL?
No I dont think so. The IPAL has a Re of .7. The Crest can do 2ohm but not many amps at all can handle the IPAL's. The Speaker Power amps can though. And that is also why most have the SP amps when they are using IPAL's.
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post #155 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post
The really clean space you see is @dsl1 gym.

The dust collector for the CNC is a . 5HP motor with a big cyclone and 6inch ducting to the shroud at the cutter.

Nice setup. I want a real DC one day (3HP at least). For now, this does the job. I control it with a wireless remote...makes life a lot easier.



1.5HP Harbor Freight DC with a canister filter from Wynn Environmental. https://wynnenv.com/woodworking-filters/ Along with a Super Dust Deputy Cyclone on a 30-gallon drum and a whole lot of 4" hose to reach all over the shop. The DC usually stays in the corner there b/c I have enough hose to reach most of the shop.
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post #156 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 06:20 PM
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The Wynn filters are really nice, though I think mine are due for a cleaning.

Remote control is nice, too, though for a while a neighbor's garage door opener (or something) was turning my DC on. Ha. That was fun.

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I control it with a wireless remote...makes life a lot easier.

...with a canister filter from Wynn Environmental.
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post #157 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post
The really clean space you see is @dsl1 gym.

The dust collector for the CNC is a Clearvue CV1800. 5HP motor with a big cyclone and 6inch ducting to the shroud at the cutter.
^^^^^^^^^ - it's a beast

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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
No I dont think so. The IPAL has a Re of .7. The Crest can do 2ohm but not many amps at all can handle the IPAL's. The Speaker Power amps can though. And that is also why most have the SP amps when they are using IPAL's.
Yes go speakerpower.

Well friends, the end is closing in:

Insides are all painted:

This was a bit of a bitch and took way too long.

Hatches almost done. Need a bit more spray paint:


Front's on and screw holes bondo'ed:


Tomorrow morning will hit them up with the sander / flush trim / round over -> duratex -> handles installed. Then all that's left is getting @Ricci 's specialty hatches done for his @SpeakerPower plate amps and ipalmod.

Probably going sell the first enclosure I built at the start of this thread. Let me know if you want it.

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post #158 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:02 PM
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why are you selling it? Find a better way to do something or just do not like it?
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post #159 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post
^^^^^^^^^ - it's a beast. Probably going sell the first enclosure I built at the start of this thread. Let me know if you want it.
I want it.

I have a pair of Tannoy VQ Net 60 that would *love* to have a pair of these to supplement the low end. Ultimate garage system!!!

Might want to see test results first though...unless the price is right.
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post #160 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
No I dont think so. The IPAL has a Re of .7. The Crest can do 2ohm but not many amps at all can handle the IPAL's. The Speaker Power amps can though. And that is also why most have the SP amps when they are using IPAL's.
Ok so which Speaker Power amp would be best for the IPAL21? Where is the best place and cheapest to buy them?
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post #161 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow77 View Post
why are you selling it? Find a better way to do something or just do not like it?
Probably because there's only so much 'woofage' a guy can endure I'd imagine...
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post #162 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow77 View Post
why are you selling it? Find a better way to do something or just do not like it?
Made it for a friend whose plans changed. On the bright side get to borrow his drivers longer

Only difference between the first SKHorn and the newest set is the handles are not inset and there are less of them (didn't put handles on the top / bottom pieces since for home theater this is just overkill).

One of the three new ones is for my room.

Got your PM, will get back to you tomorrow.

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I want it.

I have a pair of Tannoy VQ Net 60 that would *love* to have a pair of these to supplement the low end. Ultimate garage system!!!

Might want to see test results first though...unless the price is right.
Sounds like it will be a few months until Ricci gets his measurements up on data-bass. I still owe him some measurements with my mic but obviously his will be much better.

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post #163 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow77 View Post
Ok so which Speaker Power amp would be best for the IPAL21? Where is the best place and cheapest to buy them?
You can buy direct from the SP website. Also I would just buy a SP12000 rack amp. This amp will be plenty for the higher tune and way more then you need for lower tune. SP amps are the best value for power in my opinion when buying OEM. And they are nearly silent amps. If you want to save some money the FP14000 clone is the next best thing. I dont really think cheapest when thinking of these amps. So while you may be able to find a deal some where the best place for me to buy the amp is direct from the company's website.

DSL1 do you know if the plate amps from SP have separate gaskets?

I only ask because if they did then I could use the gasket as my template to draw the cutout. I also will only be using two handles on the dies for a four total handles on my build.
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post #164 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
You can buy direct from the SP website. Also I would just buy a SP12000 rack amp. This amp will be plenty for the higher tune and way more then you need for lower tune. SP amps are the best value for power in my opinion when buying OEM. And they are nearly silent amps. If you want to save some money the FP14000 clone is the next best thing. I dont really think cheapest when thinking of these amps. So while you may be able to find a deal some where the best place for me to buy the amp is direct from the company's website.

DSL1 do you know if the plate amps from SP have separate gaskets?

I only ask because if they did then I could use the gasket as my template to draw the cutout. I also will only be using two handles on the dies for a four total handles on my build.
I'd assume the drawings from speakerpower are accurate: http://www.speakerpower.net/uploads/...cut_out_r1.pdf - can confirm for you on Tuesday.

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post #165 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post
I'd assume the drawings from speakerpower are accurate: http://www.speakerpower.net/uploads/...cut_out_r1.pdf - can confirm for you on Tuesday.
Thanks. I guess it will be easier than I thought. If I just build a simple frame and use a top guide bearing on my 12mm bit I should get pretty close to a perfect match. Also not sure on the depth for flush mounting the plate amp as it looks like 1mm over hang in the drawing. 1mm cant be right that seems too thin. But anyways thanks.
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post #166 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Thanks. I guess it will be easier than I thought. If I just build a simple frame and use a top guide bearing on my 12mm bit I should get pretty close to a perfect match. Also not sure on the depth for flush mounting the playe amp as it looks like 1mm over hang in the drawing. 1mm cant be right that seems too thin. But anyways thanks.
@baniels I believe used a 1/4" depth on the rabbet. He can confirm.

Yes, that would work or you could do your cutout and use a 7/16" rabbet bit.

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post #167 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 08:21 PM
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I went back and forth with Brian a bit on the cutout for the SP1-4K since I was cutting without the amp in hand.

Here's a quote from him about the HT line:

Quote:
The plate is 3mm thick and the knobs protrude another 15mm.
So 3mm + gasket tape should make the flange flush. I went with .25" to sink it a little more. I figure the 15mm knobs could be replaced with something shorter, while still leaving 1/2" for screws so I can lay the cabinet on the amp side without bumping anything.

The plate amp has a 1/2 radius on the corners of the flange, so be sure to consider the radius of the bit overall if you want a tight fit. The radius of a rabbet bit that cuts 7/16ths may be larger than 1/2 with a common sized bearing.

When I get my amps Tuesday I'll share some pictures of the fit and the dimensions of my cutouts. I added a little breathing room to the dimensions from the SP drawings.

It would be easy to make a template on the CNC for guided cuts.

Fortunately the screw holes on the SP amp are near the edge, so there's some wiggle room


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Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post
@baniels I believe used a 1/4" depth on the rabbet. He can confirm.

Yes, that would work or you could do your cutout and use a 7/16" rabbet bit.
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post #168 of 773 Old 01-21-2017, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post
I went back and forth with Brian a bit on the cutout for the SP1-4K since I was cutting without the amp in hand.

Here's a quote from him about the HT line:



So 3mm + gasket tape should make the flange flush. I went with .25" to sink it a little more. I figure the 15mm knobs could be replaced with something shorter, while still leaving 1/2" for screws so I can lay the cabinet on the amp side without bumping anything.

The plate amp has a 1/2 radius on the corners of the flange, so be sure to consider the radius of the bit overall if you want a tight fit. The radius of a rabbet bit that cuts 7/16ths may be larger than 1/2 with a common sized bearing.

When I get my amps Tuesday I'll share some pictures of the fit and the dimensions of my cutouts. I added a little breathing room to the dimensions from the SP drawings.

It would be easy to make a template on the CNC for guided cuts.

Fortunately the screw holes on the SP amp are near the edge, so there's some wiggle room
I look forward to hearing more. I am looking at getting a SP4000 plate amp also for my Skhorn. I would add another ply layer on the back if I was worried about the protruding knobs. BUT I am more worried about the connection knobs. SO for my setup I dont think I will ever have the sub up against a wall. Probably always leave enough room for plugs. So probably about 4" of room.

Cutout and rabbit bit would be easier. So I will have to think more about it when the time comes. I will be slowly getting all my parts together. Probably going to build a template also out of 12mm MDF for the build. Then I can quickly make the guides for the panels. Although being a 24" internal width cabinet odes making the panels 25" cause a lot more waste?
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post #169 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Finishing them up:

Sanding off all my extra bondo:


Flush trimmed and added a 1/8" round-over on all external edges:


Lined up and ready to paint:


One down:


Three down with two coats:


Handle inset came out great:


Waiting for it to dry then need to duratex the bottom side and get the last seven thousand handles on....

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post #170 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 01:34 PM
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Totally awesome!!!
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post #171 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 01:54 PM
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Beautiful work. You get an appreciation for the size of these things when you see how small the paint tray looks. Really like the inset handles. So pro-looking.
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post #172 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 04:03 PM
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So how much Duratex do you think you need for one cabinet?
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post #173 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post
Beautiful work. You get an appreciation for the size of these things when you see how small the paint tray looks. Really like the inset handles. So pro-looking.
All in the details

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So how much Duratex do you think you need for one cabinet?
One gallon.

Boom:



Still some handles to attach. So many damn handles. 50% of the time to build, 50% of the time to attach handles......

Need shorter screws for the hatch handles so @Ricci doesn't poke himself.
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post #174 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 05:50 PM
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post #175 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 05:58 PM
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Sorry about those handles dsl1. I knew that would be a lot of the work! If I remember it was 320 screws for the 32 handles on my pair of cabs.
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post #176 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry about those handles dsl1. I knew that would be a lot of the work! If I remember it was 320 screws for the 32 handles on my pair of cabs.
Haha no worries, just slow going. Ordered some 1/2" of the truss-head screws but basically done. Gotta finalize shipping your way.

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post #177 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 06:47 PM
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Haha no worries, just slow going. Ordered some 1/2" of the truss-head screws but basically done. Gotta finalize shipping your way.
Or @Ricci could make the KC GTG
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post #178 of 773 Old 01-22-2017, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Or @Ricci could make the KC GTG
Carry-on luggage two SKHorns? :P

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post #179 of 773 Old 01-23-2017, 08:23 AM
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Carry-on luggage two SKHorns? :P
LOL. Right?! Kinda hard to get them on an airplane.

Kutlow...There are a variety of drivers that should work in this cab. The IPAL 21 would only be used if you want absolute max output density. Wire both in series for a 2ohm load. Run off a single SP 6000 or even a 4000. Drivers should be well within excursion limits which is good. You don't need a whole 12000 amp for one cab. That last 3db of amp is diminishing returns by far. If using 21sw152s or other drivers with a bit less excursion and power handling and a more normal 4 or 8 ohm resistance you can use a whole bunch of other amps.something between 1000 to 5000w rated depending on the drivers will be fine.These should make a lot of bass with even a modest amp.
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post #180 of 773 Old 01-23-2017, 08:30 AM
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Carry-on luggage two SKHorns? :P
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LOL. Right?! Kinda hard to get them on an airplane.
ha, for some reason I thought Louisville was only 4-5 hours from KC, but it's about double that. Oops.
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