Sealed 1299 Thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 6 Old 01-21-2017, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Sealed 1299 Thread

I'm getting ready to start building a LCR set of 1299's, and am currently in the process of gathering materials. I have never built speakers before, so I apologize if I'm asking fairly uninformed questions...

1) Ported or Sealed? I'm leaning towards sealed due to the size of these speakers, and I'm going to have a couple of subwoofers anyway. (A mini marty is most likely next on the agenda, if I manage to not cut my fingers off or burn the house down building the 1299's). It seems like most people posting are building ported versions of the 1299 though. Does anyone have seriously *strong* opinions on the ported version, or is it just nice-to-have?

2) Double baffle? Do most people recommend a double-baffle with this speaker, or is the one provided in the kit enough?

3) Crossover. Since this is my first set, I want to take some risk out of the equation by getting a fabricated board. Looking around, it seems like the boards built by ja00 are pretty dummy-proof.

@ja00 could you send me a PM? I'm interested in some boards for the 1299.
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post #2 of 6 Old 01-21-2017, 12:58 PM
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-21-2017, 03:10 PM
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Double baffle is a good idea if you can handle the wood working aspect. Not saying that to condesend, you just said some thing that sounded like youre not totally comfortable with everything. If you only do a single baffle thats cool too.

Sealed is just fine. People go ported because itll have a lot more bass. But the enclosures have to be huge. And youll have subs anyways. If you want to listen to music without subs once in a while, might wanna go ported.

My youtube channel: Impulse Audio
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-21-2017, 08:25 PM
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I didn't double baffle mine 1299's. I think I read somewhere on here that Erich said it wasn't necessary. I did however use window bracing inside the cabinet. I made sure there was a brace on the side of each woofer in the cabinets. After the braces, the baffle seemed pretty stiff to me. I think most 1299 builds on the forum here have used window bracing if you need to see some examples.

If you do double baffle, you may need put a notch in the baffle for the speaker terminal on the mids. Those were pretty tight and I needed to tilt them a bit to get the terminals past the baffle when placing them. I don't think they would fit a double baffle without a notch in the baffle.

Since I did not double baffle, I glued some small blocks on the back of the baffle for some extra thickness when mounting the woofers. Unfortunately, I don't think I put pictures of that in my build thread.

Best of Luck!!
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-22-2017, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jehlinge View Post
I didn't double baffle mine 1299's. I think I read somewhere on here that Erich said it wasn't necessary. I did however use window bracing inside the cabinet. I made sure there was a brace on the side of each woofer in the cabinets. After the braces, the baffle seemed pretty stiff to me. I think most 1299 builds on the forum here have used window bracing if you need to see some examples.

If you do double baffle, you may need put a notch in the baffle for the speaker terminal on the mids. Those were pretty tight and I needed to tilt them a bit to get the terminals past the baffle when placing them. I don't think they would fit a double baffle without a notch in the baffle.

Since I did not double baffle, I glued some small blocks on the back of the baffle for some extra thickness when mounting the woofers. Unfortunately, I don't think I put pictures of that in my build thread.

Best of Luck!!
I had an email thread going with Erich the other day and he said double baffling isn't required, so I can confirm your 'think you read it'..
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post #6 of 6 Old 01-22-2017, 09:56 AM
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Just finished mine sealed, did a double baffle and window btaces
double baffle with plywood gives the screws somthing to bite into...Mdf cann rip out especially being so thin agter the driver cut outs are cut to set the drivers flush, maybe 3/8 inch of wood left for a screw to bite. The mids are tight, but will fit w/o a notch.

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