Quad submaximus v3 build thread - Page 7 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #181 of 712 Old 03-23-2017, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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OK the sounds easy enough I found a set with 2 squares and 4 clamps from ebay for 53 than I'll just need to buy 2 more single ones

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post #182 of 712 Old 03-23-2017, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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post #183 of 712 Old 03-23-2017, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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post #184 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 02:41 AM - Thread Starter
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You guys went back and filled the kregg holes with pl3 right. That stuff is so ridiculously messy. Also where did you guys run in the speaker wire.

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post #185 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 05:06 AM
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after checking each kreg by hand,.
sure , why not

but just a good dab for internal ones,

externally, where you will be beautifying the cab, you may have adhesion issues with whatever you are filling/prepping the kreg pockets with . .

Spackle really doesn't like to stick to cured PL3.

wear the disposable gloves
requires several light passes,

there is something better than Spackle no doubt . . .

who knows that?

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post #186 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 05:39 AM
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looks good. yeah just check each screw by hand and then a little dab of PL. You're not trying to fill the hole, just keep the screw from ever backing out.

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post #187 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 07:02 AM
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Awesome build. Those will be solid boxes. Looking forward to seeing how you brace all those large panels. Good work
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post #188 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 08:14 AM
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remember to use scrap to hold the panels straight while installing the bracing and until the PL dries on them.

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post #189 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 08:41 AM
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actually, if your going to use kreg's on the braces you can remove the scrap right after you tighten the braces down.

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post #190 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 09:23 AM
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For bracing,

I think I can safely say that @Fattykidd and I will vote for a double row, as suggested by @LTD02

and pay attention to the way Fattykidd did his throat bracing : it's dakind
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post #191 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
For bracing,

I think I can safely say that @Fattykidd and I will vote for a double row, as suggested by @LTD02

and pay attention to the way Fattykidd did his throat bracing : it's dakind
Oh yeah. double row for sure.

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post #192 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 09:33 AM
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I got a 24" combo square from HF.

it makes setting the bracing spacing lines easy because of the 24" depth ruler

from the top edge i think I set the one set for a CL of 8" and the other 16" -duh!

due to the 3/4 ish panel, my top edge for the upper panel row would be 7 5/8th and 15 5/8ths for the other row.

HTH made it a no brainer to hit / be close to the mark

keep a few sharpies around too
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post #193 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 09:37 AM
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you see a clamp right up front across the top of 2 panels
that clamped in spacer makes me fit the brace so that I keep the same spacing as the bottom of the panel

helps take any bow out , usually,

the usual DIY OCD

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post #194 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 09:39 AM
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time for coffee ;
BUT

remember you're trying to keep an 80" panel straight!

you want the side B to fit, don't you?
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post #195 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 10:23 AM
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I agree. you cant be too anal/careful when dealing with panels this large.

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post #196 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 10:48 AM
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Yes two rows of bracing..... you can hear a distinct lack of resonance in the wood when you knock on it compared to locations under braced
Like as arose said ~8 and 16 inch
Because all the braces are angled on one side I found that cutting the angle first on a board slightly long was best for testing the angle made good contact. Then cut the 90 degree on the other end for final length.
Be carful when pushing in the brace to final location.... if you push it in to hard you WILL bow the panel


I do love the way the throat bracing came out.... well on the one anyway


On fatty's we place the speakon connector above (when MAX is standing) the hatch on center of hatch about 6 inches
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post #197 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 10:59 AM
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iirc, on my chop saw, that angle was like 4 -5 degrees . . . not very much

sacrifice some scrap to get that right

for me my 25 y.o. 8 1/2" chop saw can't go for the really long rip,

that's why my braces run about 10ish" or so.
helps focus on 1 properly placed / fitted brace at a time . .

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post #198 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay thanks for all the tips that's what I was thinking 2 rows. I'll definitely make sure I follow all your guys steps I want side 2 to fit good. I was thinking the connector should go somewhere around the hatch

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post #199 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 12:56 PM
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Something else we did for side two was cut it about 1/4" large and then used a flush cut bit on the router to have it right to the edge.
the 1/4" (1/8" on each side) was based on and variance we had through the middle... as hard as we tried there was still some slight "waviness" to the long back
When we laid out on side two for the screw location to go through to the pieces we had to account for the 1/8" so the screws would land in the center
We choose the top and back as or reference
For the throat I clamped a piece of strait board on the inside and used it as a guide for the router bit


Hope that helps some

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post #200 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Something else we did for side two was cut it about 1/4" large and then used a flush cut bit on the router to have it right to the edge.
the 1/4" (1/8" on each side) was based on and variance we had through the middle... as hard as we tried there was still some slight "waviness" to the long back
When we laid out on side two for the screw location to go through to the pieces we had to account for the 1/8" so the screws would land in the center
We choose the top and back as or reference
For the throat I clamped a piece of strait board on the inside and used it as a guide for the router bit


Hope that helps some
I'll have to do this on box 2 I cut this one almost exactly 36

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post #201 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
after checking each kreg by hand,.
sure , why not

but just a good dab for internal ones,

externally, where you will be beautifying the cab, you may have adhesion issues with whatever you are filling/prepping the kreg pockets with . .

Spackle really doesn't like to stick to cured PL3.

wear the disposable gloves
requires several light passes,

there is something better than Spackle no doubt . . .

who knows that?
I'm probably not going to be making these to flashy except for the mouth section it's literally the only part of the box anyone will ever see even with my screen and fabric panels removed

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post #202 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
I'll have to do this on box 2 I cut this one almost exactly 36

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OK, I'm sure you will be fine


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post #203 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, I'm sure you will be fine


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Lol I'll be getting some time this weekend to hopefully finish this first box and cut and kregg the next box.i did have a question on cutting the driver hole and mounting it. If parts express says 16.75 in for the cutout is this the same even though it's mounted opposite as normal and did you mount the driver and than install the driver panel or install the driver after the panel was in.

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post #204 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 01:51 PM
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If I recall the hole we cut was a little bigger than the specified "typical" mounting hole for @Fattykidd UXL18's
I think it is best to measure your driver plus give yourself added room so that the foam on the cone has room and is not rubbing. Its awkward to get the driver in and ensure clearances... but do able.... Fatty can speak more to this
Build the box out completely (finish and all) then install the driver though the hatch after you have it in your room.... trying to put in the driver panel with driver and secure would be a nightmare.
Also I wouldn't want to risk getting that messy PL on it

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post #205 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 02:24 PM
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I cut the as specified hole
ONCE i knew where . . .

you need to install panel A on, then dry fit the baffle panel to find where that vertical centerline for the specified throat dimension is

or LTD02's ghost image will jump off the screen and just batch slip some sense into you,

remember these guys spent 2 years mulling over this prize for us . .

while your doing that,
take a look at the baffle braces Fattykidd did wrt panel A and the baffle, see the pic, red outline

you want to do that . .

it looks too tight when you think of using kreg screws,

you can easily secure those braces coming thru the outside of panel A and from from the inside chamber face of the baffle piece, 2" deck screws, also PL and a dab over the deck screws, you may need to do a slight countersink for the heads, at least on the outside of A. Under drive with your drillmotor and finish tightening by hand . .

make them long , that panel A is 60". you will deal with the taper and you will have a well secured spacer at the top of the panels for consistency.

duplicate that bracing for the portion of A toward F, iirc.

for V2 i did that
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post #206 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I've seen in both build I think vertical boards running up panel g on the driver side what's the purpose for these. Just want to make sure everything is done right

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post #207 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 02:55 PM
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Stiffeners

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post #208 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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OK thanks. Does that brace sit just under where the driver is mounted hard to tell by the angle on the picture. Sorry for all the questions

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post #209 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 03:19 PM
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yeah for pic in post 207,
looks great . . .

spacing looks to be splitting the 16.75 hole into thirds,

you'll need to think about that , maybe before going for the extra driver mounting blocks positioning

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post #210 of 712 Old 03-24-2017, 03:23 PM
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The brace is pretty close to the 1/3 split similar to the others. I think we were a bit further from center line.... but only an inch or two
More bracing is better than less


ADD... moved a bit to avoid the driver blocking

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