The Aggressive 1299s: A Trilogy - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Talking The Aggressive 1299s: A Trilogy

My center channel has always been the weakest link of my front stage. It’s a hand-me-down TM that, while not bad sounding, is inadequate compared to my MTMWWW mains.

However, after adding a pair of sealed HS24-MKII’s, my mains are also lacking the output to keep up. I figured I would go with a matching L/C/R and retire my 4TSE to the bedroom.

I decided on The Aggressive 1299. I’ll be building them to 6 cubic feet with dual slot ports tuned to 47hz.

The build will begin with the center channel. The L and R will follow.

I designed the cabinets in such a way that the center can switch from being horizontal to vertical with the swapping of the center section of the double baffle. This is experimental, but it looks sound on paper, er, in Solidworks. The vertical configuration of the center channel will be identical to the left and right if I ever use them behind an AT screen. This required spacing the woofers slightly wider than I would have otherwise, but not by much.

I’ve been all over the map with respect to box size and port tuning. I decided to go as large as I could using the following restraints:
No deeper than my subs at 21”
Not wider than 15” (75% wider than my current mains)
The height was negotiable, but I wanted to keep it under 47.5” for efficient use of material on the CNC. I can fit all three cabinets on 5 sheet of ply if I keep the height limited, with little scrap. Pushing the height doesn’t work out as well.

The center of the waveguide is 26.5” from the floor for the left and right. I’ll add some stands to bring that up to ear level.

The skillfully packed parts for the CC arrived yesterday. And blank xover boards came from @mtg90 last week.

Both @Eric H and @tuxedocivic were helpful as I pondered cabinet size and tuning.

The ports are 2.75 tall x 13.58 wide and 8.705” long. In the sims the ports are 10.08 inches long, but I’ve reduced them by half the height since they run along a wall. That’s the method I’ve read repeatedly, but my ears are open if there is a better approach.

Some parts for the CC:


These boards looks great and should make the xover assembly a breeze.


Overall dimensions


Some sims:

SPL at 100 watts at 3 meters, compared to the 1299 in a sealed box of the same size, and my current mains. The left and right will have considerably more power on tap, with a Gen 1 XPA-2. The center will be powered by a Denon X3300W.


Port velocity with 300 watts no high pass.


Response compared to sealed in the same size cabinet.


This is the approach for the modular center section of the baffle. I couldn’t make it a square without further pushing the woofers down and limiting the port height, so it will require two sets of the center section.

In vertical configuration:



Horizontal configuration:



Here is how they’ll sit in my room:


And here’s how the tower will look without a side panel, colored braces, before a horizon at dusk (now you don’t have to ask).

Last edited by baniels; 03-02-2017 at 10:45 AM.
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post #2 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I might update this post with finished pictures someday.
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post #3 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 09:57 AM
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Im looking forward to this.

When you say reduce the height of the port by half, did you mean the length?

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post #4 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Port length in WinISD is 10.08" long. I am building them only 8.705" long, or 1.375" shorter than WinISD calculates. 1.375 is half the 2.75" height of the ports.

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Im looking forward to this.

When you say reduce the height of the port by half, did you mean the length?
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post #5 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 11:24 AM
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These are going to be awesome! The slot port looks great, way better than giant round ports in my opinion. That simulated front stage looks so badass. Please don't take 2 years on these :P
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Last edited by dtsdig; 03-02-2017 at 11:29 AM.
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post #6 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha. I will do my best.

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Please don't take 2 years on these :P
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post #7 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
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Haha. I will do my best.
Three years later....

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post #8 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 12:22 PM
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post #9 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 12:43 PM
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Awesome!

Looks like the top and bottom are not braced. Probably wouldn't matter much either way.
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post #10 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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That's a good point. I meant to come back to that once I finalized the port. I might go without.

I could split the ports with a piece down the middle which would brace close to half of the top/bottom. Wouldn't have to make them much longer to keep the same tuning. Just need to decide if I can get into the way it looks, vs a clean slot.





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Awesome!

Looks like the top and bottom are not braced. Probably wouldn't matter much either way.
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post #11 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 04:24 PM
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I like the design!!

We talked about this. I do think I will redesign mine for a similar tune. Both the discussions I've had with dsl1 and you have convinced me to go for a 45hz - 50hz tune. Honestly, I'll like @baniels design. I liked it when dsl1 showed it to me a few weeks ago. I had multiple slotted ports in mine. But, I dig the huge one here; although, I do think it needs a brace. Might be able to push it back into the mouth and paint it all black inside. Would make it much harder to see.

@dsl1 I'll be in contact man. I might get everything cut for the boxes. Everything is packed and in storage, but at least I can get the boxes cut and ready.

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post #12 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 05:19 PM
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I think it looks better without the port split and I really don't think a brace there is necessary anyway. After all, even though these will make some bass, it's not like you'll be dealing with inches of peak to peak excursion. You could always put a dowel right into the center near the back edge of the port panel inside the cab so it wouldn't be visible.
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post #13 of 42 Old 03-02-2017, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I think it looks better without the port split and I really don't think a brace there is necessary anyway. After all, even though these will make some bass, it's not like you'll be dealing with inches of peak to peak excursion. You could always put a dowel right into the center near the back edge of the port panel inside the cab so it wouldn't be visible.
Yes agreed, the bracing the port doesn't matter. Honestly our boxes in general are way overkill.
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post #14 of 42 Old 03-03-2017, 06:47 AM
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Yeeaaaa I'm gonna need you to go ahead and do a comparison of the 4TSE and the 1299s when you finish them... I am looking at having my dad build a set of mains for me to replace my Polks, and the 4TSE and 1099s are both on the short list. I don't listen super loud so a traditional tower (i.e. not high-efficiency) seems fine, but if the DIYSG stuff is very on-par with the high end 4TSE at normal listening levels, then I might need to reconsider. My biggest concern is that I've never heard a compression driver before so I'm not sure how they sound. Anyway, enough about that, finish your speakers and post comparative review ASAP
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post #15 of 42 Old 03-03-2017, 08:06 AM
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Love the colored braces and the detail on the crossover!
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post #16 of 42 Old 03-03-2017, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post
Yes agreed, the bracing the port doesn't matter. Honestly our boxes in general are way overkill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I think it looks better without the port split and I really don't think a brace there is necessary anyway. After all, even though these will make some bass, it's not like you'll be dealing with inches of peak to peak excursion. You could always put a dowel right into the center near the back edge of the port panel inside the cab so it wouldn't be visible.
I'm going to keep the port free of visible obstruction designed, and not brace the top and bottom. But it's easy enough to add a little brace to the backside of the port, unseen. Shown in yellow.



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Yeeaaaa I'm gonna need you to go ahead and do a comparison of the 4TSE and the 1299s when you finish them... I am looking at having my dad build a set of mains for me to replace my Polks, and the 4TSE and 1099s are both on the short list. I don't listen super loud so a traditional tower (i.e. not high-efficiency) seems fine, but if the DIYSG stuff is very on-par with the high end 4TSE at normal listening levels, then I might need to reconsider. My biggest concern is that I've never heard a compression driver before so I'm not sure how they sound. Anyway, enough about that, finish your speakers and post comparative review ASAP
I will certainly do that when they're done. The 4TSE are great speakers. They've served me well for almost 6 years.

Last edited by baniels; 03-03-2017 at 02:47 PM.
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post #17 of 42 Old 03-05-2017, 10:18 AM
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Personally, I love the thread name. If it weren't for the thread name, I may not have clicked on this. Good luck finishing it. It seems you are putting a lot of effort and time designing in this.
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post #18 of 42 Old 03-05-2017, 04:41 PM - Thread Starter
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The boards from @mtg90 make this too easy (not a complaint). Got a stack of baltic birch coming tomorrow. Should be making some dust this week.

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post #19 of 42 Old 03-05-2017, 09:50 PM
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Subbed looking forward to your build......You won't be disappointed in 1299.

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post #20 of 42 Old 03-06-2017, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post
The boards from @mtg90 make this too easy (not a complaint). Got a stack of baltic birch coming tomorrow. Should be making some dust this week.

Could you show a picture of the back side of the board with all the soldering?

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post #21 of 42 Old 03-06-2017, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Sure.



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Could you show a picture of the back side of the board with all the soldering?
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post #22 of 42 Old 03-06-2017, 12:04 PM
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Love all the thought you put into how to do this and also the potential for a changeable center speaker mid-baffle!
1299 now that's a man speaker! How big is your room that will have these and the beast subs?
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post #23 of 42 Old 03-08-2017, 06:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Question - when it comes to lining the walls of the cabinet. I see I can get Ultratouch in 3.5" thickness (somewhat) locally. But can order the 2" stuff online. 3.5" seems awfully thick. Am I better off using the thinner (r8) stuff?

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How big is your room that will have these and the beast subs?
The room is sort of open plan to the kitchen behind the living room. 21' wide along the front wall, and 27 or so from the front to the back of the kitchen. But the back of the main couch is in the middle, about 13.5' from the front wall, putting the main LP about 12' from the L/R and just under 11' from the center channel.

Roughly like this, walls not shown
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post #24 of 42 Old 03-08-2017, 07:36 AM
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Can the 3" be slip apart? Thats what I do with regular pink fluffy insulation and it pulls apart right down the middle if you start the rip right.

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post #25 of 42 Old 03-08-2017, 12:30 PM
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I used the 2" UltraTouch from HD and it worked great when finishing my 1099s.
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post #26 of 42 Old 03-08-2017, 09:29 PM
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The Ultratouch insulation is pretty difficult to rip or cut into half thickness, probably easier getting the thinner stuff online.
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post #27 of 42 Old 03-09-2017, 05:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I used the 2" UltraTouch from HD and it worked great when finishing my 1099s.
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The Ultratouch insulation is pretty difficult to rip or cut into half thickness, probably easier getting the thinner stuff online.

Thanks for the input. I've never worked with the stuff in the past. I'll order the 2" stuff.
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post #28 of 42 Old 03-09-2017, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks for the input. I've never worked with the stuff in the past. I'll order the 2" stuff.

Beware that the denim insulation produces a heck of a lot of dust when cutting and tearing. I used it on my 1099s and it worked great and was easy to use. I started tearing it in my living room and made a mess before i moved the tearing outside. Just my $.02
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post #29 of 42 Old 03-09-2017, 10:36 AM
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I'd stick with the 2" stuff. I just used an old pair of scissors to cut mine for my HTM-12's and there was virtually no mess at all.
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post #30 of 42 Old 03-16-2017, 06:53 AM
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Any progress??

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