My DIYSG 1099 Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 41 Old 03-26-2017, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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My DIYSG 1099 Build

coming along. putting laminate on. wish i would have decided to do laminate on the front baffle. its much easier than trying to spray and sand 7 coats only to find an imperfection here and there. using the Bosch palm router with a Bosch 2 flute flush cut bit is working well. i will do laminate on my subs for sure.

i spent about a week or 2 spraying the baffle and think i should have not done that first as its probably better to do the laminate first then spray if you are going to go that route. also i did a 50/50 mix on the cabinets and I am not sure that is necessary if you laminate because the contact cement must seal them pretty well.

these boxes are also heavy to be moving around...im telling you... working on five is also a lot of work.








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post #2 of 41 Old 03-26-2017, 04:35 PM
 
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A couple of your pictures aren't working. I'd also like more info about the laminate.
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post #3 of 41 Old 03-26-2017, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I posted 3 pics. It is formica vertical laminate. I bought it on ebay from a seller in NC. Very good pricing. It was around 100$ for 2 sheets. I sheet was over sized. 5x10 the other sheet for 4x8. I used some wiss heavy duty 10 inch shears to rough cut it. It worked real well and overall no splintering or cracking.

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post #4 of 41 Old 03-26-2017, 04:53 PM
 
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Ok.. It looked like there was supposed to be 2 more.. And very cool. I've been looking for idea's to finish a couple big sub cabinets.
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post #5 of 41 Old 03-27-2017, 10:36 AM
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The laminate looks great, I think I'd like to try that out on a project soon. Laminate seems like it might be a little more forgiving than veneer? Either way, it makes for a great end result.
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post #6 of 41 Old 03-27-2017, 02:51 PM
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Ive started to use laminate as much as possible. Much more forgiving and much cheaper than veneer in high end finishes. Paint is still cheaper though. And laminate isnt goo around a 3/4" roundover.

Great looking build so far! Keep us updated.

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post #7 of 41 Old 03-27-2017, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I am kinda irritated because I think I will have to respray the front because where the laminate meets my sprayed on rustoleum satin black enamel.... it just does not look all that great up close because of the router and tape I used ( green painters tape). not sure... not a huge deal because the room will be super dark.

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post #8 of 41 Old 03-28-2017, 07:13 AM
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Is it too late to do a laminate front baffle too?

I know it's going to be hidden, you just have to ask yourself if it's going to bother you enough to do the extra work. I'm not happy with the paint I used on my HTM-12s, but they'll be totally hidden. I'm debating just going forward and sucking it up and using it on my (also hidden) subs, or caving in and buying new paint to redo them all. I haven't decided yet.
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post #9 of 41 Old 03-28-2017, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Ive started to use laminate as much as possible. Much more forgiving and much cheaper than veneer in high end finishes. Paint is still cheaper though. And laminate isnt goo around a 3/4" roundover.

Great looking build so far! Keep us updated.

i have some ideas but what is the best way to cut the laminate around the opening for the drivers ? do you cement the sheet on and then use a flush bit or do you do this any other way ? lots of opening on the 1099s. wouldnt mind seeing a video of someone doing this!

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post #10 of 41 Old 03-28-2017, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post
i have some ideas but what is the best way to cut the laminate around the opening for the drivers ? do you cement the sheet on and then use a flush bit or do you do this any other way ? lots of opening on the 1099s. wouldnt mind seeing a video of someone doing this!
Thats tricky cause the baffle is pre-cut. I am always cutting the baffle after applying veneer or laminate. I would apply the laminate and then use a flush trim bit to hog out the holes. But you will probably need a bit with a very low profile bearing. Might be a tricky job. Cutting laminate by hand isnt really an option like veneer.

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post #11 of 41 Old 03-28-2017, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Tux... and that's why I elected to paint the baffle and laminate the rest. Was just making sure I wasn't missing something! This is probably the only one where you could just trim the laminate on a pre cut baffle... https://www.amazon.com/Freud-64-100-...FKN5SDTC7DBN8A

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post #12 of 41 Old 03-28-2017, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you have any pics of speakers that you have done laminate on?

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post #13 of 41 Old 03-28-2017, 04:15 PM
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Not handy, no. Im working on some big speakers and using zebrano by formica. Should be done the laminating soon. The curved sides make is a tricky process. Cant run a trim router on a curved side

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post #14 of 41 Old 03-29-2017, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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that will be interesting... let me know how it works out.

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post #15 of 41 Old 03-29-2017, 07:45 PM
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I am working on a Wilson Art Laminate on my sub build and have looked all over for advice on application and have found two good sources, while they are both a little different than a contact cement application laminate, they seem helpful:
1) http://www.ohio.edu/people/schneidw/..._recesses.html and http://www.ohio.edu/people/schneidw/...veneering.html

2) These youtube videos are not exact but I felt they are helpful
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post #16 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

i spent about a week or 2 spraying the baffle and think i should have not done that first as its probably better to do the laminate first then spray if you are going to go that route.


Could you expand on this please? I am in the middle of my build now, and I have all of my wilsonart laminate sheets rough cut to size. I am going to be painting the baffles black, and am trying to figure out if it makes more sense to spray the baffle before or after the laminate.


I think I arrived at painting the baffle first, but I would like to hear why you think otherwise.

I turn the sharpness on my TV all the way up, because that's how I like my picture... real sharp.


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post #17 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Not handy, no. Im working on some big speakers and using zebrano by formica. Should be done the laminating soon. The curved sides make is a tricky process. Cant run a trim router on a curved side

Could an angled base like you can get for the Bosch Colt router help you? I put that to use several times on my curved build. It looks like Makita makes one for their handheld router now too.

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post #18 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kuester View Post
Could you expand on this please? I am in the middle of my build now, and I have all of my wilsonart laminate sheets rough cut to size. I am going to be painting the baffles black, and am trying to figure out if it makes more sense to spray the baffle before or after the laminate.


I think I arrived at painting the baffle first, but I would like to hear why you think otherwise.
I believe the answer depends on if the baffle attached first.

In my Fusion 15 build I sprayed the backs black and then laminated the sides and top. The baffles had a round over and were already painted black, but left separate to be glued up after the box was finished. When I trimmed the laminate edges against the black back I allowed the trim bit to rub right against the paint. Of course, this roughed it up pretty good. I then did as it sounds fschris did and used the green painters tape to help protect the paint, but it really didn't work. The back isn't pretty, but, thankfully, it's just the back. If I had a redo I'd probably just hit the back with laminate too, probably black.

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post #19 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Concur with Wasser... You will want to use enough Contact cement to make a good bond. Not a lot but enough and when you trim the laminate that is going to gunk up your routter bit and deface your nice paint job, I also tried the painters tape and that is a mess as well because it will get the cut contanct cement mixed into it and then when you peel off its a PITA. So i will be doing 2 more coats on the baffle when I get the laminate done. plus the cut edge may leave so white edges from the lamite trimming process. I will try to post some close up shots.

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post #20 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 02:02 PM
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Got it, thanks. Unfortunately my baffles are already glued on. They also have a 3/4" roundover, so the laminate won't be going flush to the front edge of the baffle. My thought is to trim one edge of the laminate before it is applied to the board - and that clean edge will be butted up against the back side of the baffle. (The baffle sits proud of the rest of the cabinet by 1/32" or so on all sides) And yes, I am wondering about the edge as the baffle is not big enough to completely cover the thickness of the laminate.


I was leaning towards painting first because I figured sanding the roundovers between coats would be easier without worrying about the laminate, and I could not come up with a real big benefit of laminating first.


Now you've got me wondering. But I don't want to derail your thread, so I will probably continue my wondering in private.

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post #21 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Also make sure you use a high quality laminate trim bit... and if you have not done it before have some mineral spirits to clean the bit as you work through it...
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post #22 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pics post trimming...you can see in the one pic that i started to clean up the crud and it looks a lot better. most of these is right after the trimming.















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Last edited by fschris; 03-30-2017 at 05:49 PM.
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post #23 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 05:52 PM
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I found that a flat rasp worked great for cleaning up those edges on the veneer I used on my 1099's.
Looking good!
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post #24 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 06:02 PM
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Except in this case the ugly edges are where the trim bit ate the paint on the baffle. That looks about how mine turned out IIRC, after my first pass with a laminate bit I did the others with a trim bit with a bearing and the result was a little better, but still ate it.

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post #25 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasser View Post
Except in this case the ugly edges are where the trim bit ate the paint on the baffle. That looks about how mine turned out IIRC, after my first pass with a laminate bit I did the others with a trim bit with a bearing and the result was a little better, but still ate it.
Looks like the paper backing on the veneer to me.
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post #26 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 06:45 PM
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He didn't veneer. It was laminate on the side and paint on the baffle. The trim bit ate the baffle paint when he trimmed the laminate.

However, using laminate file on the trimmed edge is recommended, but it won't clean up the paint on the baffle.

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post #27 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 09:00 PM
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Hi fschris

Did you use a primer/undercoat before painting the black ?

I would prime/undercoat first then laminate . The main reason laminate would be harder to damage than the paint whule moving and prepping the cab's .


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post #28 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 09:44 PM
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FWIW, I initially used an Irwin flush trim bit and got the same edges you have in the pics. Switched to Diablo and the results are much better.

I also repainted my front baffle after trim after installing the laminate. There ended up being some very minor seeping through the tape I used, but I think it's better than the laminate edges visible on the baffle. The top and bottom of my baffle has roundovers. In hindsight, I should have added some mud in that area to make the transition seamless.
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post #29 of 41 Old 03-30-2017, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kuester View Post
Got it, thanks. Unfortunately my baffles are already glued on. They also have a 3/4" roundover, so the laminate won't be going flush to the front edge of the baffle. My thought is to trim one edge of the laminate before it is applied to the board - and that clean edge will be butted up against the back side of the baffle. (The baffle sits proud of the rest of the cabinet by 1/32" or so on all sides) And yes, I am wondering about the edge as the baffle is not big enough to completely cover the thickness of the laminate.


I was leaning towards painting first because I figured sanding the roundovers between coats would be easier without worrying about the laminate, and I could not come up with a real big benefit of laminating first.


Now you've got me wondering. But I don't want to derail your thread, so I will probably continue my wondering in private.
Did the same thing on my Volt 6's that has round overs and slanted, so no way to trim after installing the laminate. It turned out great!
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post #30 of 41 Old 03-31-2017, 07:42 AM
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I've only rough cut laminate with shears, glued it down, and then used the router to trim the edge smooth. @ja00 , how did you get a clean, smooth edge prior to gluing?

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