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post #1 of 42 Old 06-25-2017, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Wall of Power Media Room (Two 24", Six 18")

Time to updated my Media room! I finally broke down and bought a larger LCD. I upgraded my old 55" Toshiba with a 75" Sony Z9D!

My current audio set up is:
3 - 1099's for LCR
2 - Ultimax 18" in MiniMarty cabinets
2 - Volt 10's for surrounds
1 - iNuke 6000DSP
Denon 4520 AVR

My issue is that my rooms sucks for midbass! 12ft ceilings and open concept!

My new set up (so far unless you talk me into something different!) will be adding:
6 - PA460 18" dual opposed as MBM's for LCR (Sealed DO enclosures 26h x 20w x 24d)
2 - SI SHS-24 24" subs custom made with heavier cones for lower response into single digits (Sealed enclosures 26h x 26w x 24d)

I'll be getting rid of the MiniMarty's with the Ultimax 18's

New Amps and electronics:
1 - SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT to power the 24" subs
1 - D-Sonic custom made 6 channel amp (1000x3, 400x3) to power the MBM's (1000w ea) and the LCR (400w ea) - I plan on upgrading the 1099's when I build my new home with dedicated theater.
1 - MiniDSP 10x10

I have no room (nor time) to cut wood, so I'm paying a local car stereo shop to make the boxes for me.

Here is a Sketchup:



I'm planning to set crossover to:
24" - 0-50hz
MBM's - 50-200hz
1099's - 200hz +

"The sickness is real"

Last edited by mlah384; 11-07-2017 at 07:15 PM.
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post #2 of 42 Old 06-25-2017, 11:33 AM
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Hmmmmm,

Needs a touch more midbass--Six 18" PA woofers and 3,000 watts of power should do it.

Since 18's are for midbass, might as well go with 24's for the deep stuff--don't want to confuse anyone.

One question, with all those power amplifiers from the SpeakerPower to the D-Sonics--running new breakers to keep it going?

I'll be in Arkansas in two weeks--swing by Mississippi if you are just going to throw away the Marty boxes.
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post #3 of 42 Old 06-25-2017, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18Hurts View Post
Hmmmmm,

Needs a touch more midbass--Six 18" PA woofers and 3,000 watts of power should do it.

Since 18's are for midbass, might as well go with 24's for the deep stuff--don't want to confuse anyone.

One question, with all those power amplifiers from the SpeakerPower to the D-Sonics--running new breakers to keep it going?

I'll be in Arkansas in two weeks--swing by Mississippi if you are just going to throw away the Marty boxes.
LOL...

I have 2 dedicated 30amp lines. I may convert one to 220v, not sure yet...

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the minimartys... I haven't thought that through!
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post #4 of 42 Old 06-25-2017, 12:32 PM
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Congrats for moving the goal line . . .

can't wait to see this move along . .

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
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post #5 of 42 Old 06-25-2017, 07:56 PM
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Since you'll prolly be here more than there, I'll put this here.

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Originally Posted by mlah384 View Post
If I get a miniDSP 10x10, do i need to get the Phoenix to Male XLR to be able to use it with amps like the SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT?

Do they send 10 Phoenix to Male XLR cables? Or? I'm confused on that...

Thanks!
That SpeakerPower amp you've chosen is XLR only. If you don't like hum or buzz, I caution against using RCA adapters.

As for the Mini's connectors, you can choose which adapter pigtails you buy, the input pigtails or the output pigtails (at 14" long, they are pigtails, not cables).
I'd get a written confirmation on the number of pigtails that come with each order (I'll assume 8 pcs., but check). Oh, and the 10x10 is 8 analog I/O and 2 digital I/O, not 10 I/O of either.

I strongly recommend you get self-adhesive, panel-mount, tie-points and stick them on the top and bottom of the Mini's casing.
Using the the tie-points, zip-tie the pigtails to them. This will take the strain off those tiny conductors in the Phoenix blocks, as they have no other strain relief.
Then make or buy a bunch of mic cables.

Another thing, and IME, if you need to move stuff around, having full-length adapters and having to work with those dinky Phoenix blocks is a real PITA.
It is far easier to work with the bigger XLR connectors on pigtails.
Again, those tiny conductors in the Phoenix blocks don't take kindly to a lot of manipulation.

Have a happy build.
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post #6 of 42 Old 06-25-2017, 09:43 PM
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Your going to run the speakepower amp off 110v? Seems like a lot of wasted juice.i love your idea though drawing looks AWSOME. Will firing one of the pa460's straight into the wall affect anything? "Espically in the higher like 200hz stuff?"
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post #7 of 42 Old 06-26-2017, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliver Deplace View Post
Oh, and the 10x10 is 8 analog I/O
He only needs 5 of the 8, the DO's should receive identical signals.

I would recommend upgrading to 240V for one of those lines for the 12k... no kill like overkill!

The other 120v 30a is plenty for the rest of the gear.
All of those amps are Class-D, the ones for the mains will spend most of their time only drawing a few watts from the wall.

The exception is when you crank it up to THX (or beyond... )
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post #8 of 42 Old 07-12-2017, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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The Big 24" Custom SHS24 D1's being built!

Parameters:

Re: 2.14 Ohms
Fs: 19.2 Hz
Qes: 0.40
Qms: 5.22
Qts: 0.37
Le: 2.4 mH
Sd: 330.0 in^2
Vas: 242 L
BL: 34
Mms: 1824.9 g
SPL: 87.9 dB 1W/1M
SPL: 93.7 dB 2.83V/1M














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post #9 of 42 Old 07-12-2017, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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post #10 of 42 Old 07-12-2017, 03:50 PM
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Things are about to get mid-bassy!
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post #11 of 42 Old 07-12-2017, 07:59 PM
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And there's this video from today's testing prior to dust caps:

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post #12 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 07:37 AM
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Well, this is one way to melt your face with bass.

Why DO for your MBMs?

The only thing I'd suggest is changing the MBM range; 80 is a little high....maybe take it down to 45 or 50. You'll be missing on some great midbass is you crossover at 80. Just my 2 pennies.

Either way, very interested to see how this progresses.

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Last edited by Rowan611; 07-13-2017 at 07:41 AM.
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post #13 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 09:22 AM
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Very cool build. Hats off to you sir.
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post #14 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 10:08 AM
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Cool system thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowan611 View Post
Well, this is one way to melt your face with bass.



The only thing I'd suggest is changing the MBM range; 80 is a little high....maybe take it down to 45 or 50. You'll be missing on some great midbass is you crossover at 80. Just my 2 pennies.

Either way, very interested to see how this progresses.
Agreed. I would do the same.
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post #15 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 10:51 AM
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just a thought on the dual opposed mid-bass cabs. it may make some sense to separate the drivers inside the cabs so the rear set and the forward firing set can receive different delay.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #16 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
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just a thought on the dual opposed mid-bass cabs. it may make some sense to separate the drivers inside the cabs so the rear set and the forward firing set can receive different delay.
Good point. The wall facing having no delay and the forward facing having 1-3ms. But that will require having 8 amplication and dsp channels.

Alternatively he could rotate the boxes sideways so that they'ed all be at the same distance.
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post #17 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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post #18 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlah384 View Post
I could do a bossobass style driver up and driver down enclosure?
Is there a particular reason why you can't have these directly firing forward?
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post #19 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Is there a particular reason why you can't have these directly firing forward?
Space limitation on that wall. And if i stack them then the 1099's will be too high.
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post #20 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 05:39 PM
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I also wonder why the high cross for the MBMs. Wouldn't the chest thump be at 50-100 Hz?
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post #21 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlah384 View Post
Space limitation on that wall. And if i stack them then the 1099's will be too high.
Would it be possible to do what I did and build a shelf above the mains to hold the additional midbass?

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post #22 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post
Would it be possible to do what I did and build a shelf above the mains to hold the additional midbass?

Hey Scott, why so few drivers???




Nice wall

Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any typos

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post #23 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
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Hey Scott, why so few drivers???




Nice wall

Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any typos
It's all I could fit without going to smaller, puny drivers.

Thanks!
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post #24 of 42 Old 07-13-2017, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post
It's all I could fit without going to smaller, puny drivers.

Thanks!
Lol....

Your welcome. I'm sure it sounds awesome.

Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any typos

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post #25 of 42 Old 09-18-2017, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Updates!

I've been so busy that I havent had time to post updates! I got the custom SI 24" a while back. Pictures do not do justice on how big these are!:



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post #26 of 42 Old 09-18-2017, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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My garage is full and I have no room to build, so I paid a local car stereo shop to build my boxes for me! I gave them the specs, sketch up drawings, etc. Here are a few pics of the MBM DO 18" boxes. They are double walled! No bracing needed.







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post #27 of 42 Old 09-18-2017, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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post #28 of 42 Old 09-18-2017, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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post #29 of 42 Old 09-18-2017, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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The 1/2" lexan top looks blue because of the plastic that I haven't peeled off yet. It will be clear when that happens... But I may redo the lexan top and have the corners match the box dimensions.
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post #30 of 42 Old 09-18-2017, 05:58 PM
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Careful, you might just break the glass in that fireplace. Hell... you might just break the TV, the lights, and the drywall too!

You'll be surrounded by flying shards of glass in the cold darkness, with only bass to comfort you...
(Excellent Smithers!)
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