Yet Another DIYSG Volt 6 Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 17Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Yet Another DIYSG Volt 6 Build

This is the first set of speakers I've ever built. If anyone is following along in my theater room thread I already posted most of this stuff there but I thought a dedicated thread would help people in the future as well as help me finish these things off over the course of this week.

First step is to assemble the boxes.







Crossover assembly next.
OJ Bartley likes this.
javeryh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
The next thing to do was build the crossovers. I opened up one of the boxes and laid out all of the parts for each speaker.



Once I was fairly certain where everything belonged, I assembled everything for a dry fit.



This was easy but took longer than I thought because I had to make sure all of the wires were in the right place so that when I glued down everything I wouldn't be fumbling as the glue dried. Next, I took everything apart and got the glue gun heated up.



Then I glued everything in place on the PCB.



After gluing everything down to the PCB I had to use a zip tie for the big rectangle looking thingy (technical term) to make sure it doesn't come loose. It is heavy for its size.



Now here comes the hard part (for me) - soldering for the first time ever. I watched a ton of YouTube videos but you can't get good at something without actually trying! So I dove right in. I heated up the soldering iron, flipped the PCB upside down (the glue was holding!) and started to solder... Here's the first one:



It was kind of messy but all of the connections seem solid. There is definitely an art to it and by the time I got tot he last one my solder points were much cleaner. Next up was snipping all of the long wires so that just the solder points remained.



Here is a close-up of the mess so people don't get discouraged if your solder points aren't coming out perfect:



Yikes.

The last thing to do before completing the crossovers was to solder on the speaker wire to the IN(+/-), HI(+/-) and LO(+/-) connections. I went red wire to + and black wire to -.



All of the connections seem very tight and for the first time at this I'm pretty happy with how they came out (assuming they actually work!).

Next I'll be mounting the crossover inside of the speaker box and prepping them for paint. Easy peasy!
nlpearman and OJ Bartley like this.
javeryh is offline  
post #3 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
I was VERY careful to not let the red covered section of those wires poke through on the heavy rectangle thing and the red wire wheel thing (more technical terms). The only thing that slightly worries me but I'm 99% sure I'm OK on is for the IN/HI/LO connections the solder heated up the plastic sheathing of the wires to the point where they melted a little. I'm reasonably sure I still have very good connections on those pads but I wasn't expecting the 16 gauge wires to melt so easily.
javeryh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Next, I sealed the inside seams of the speaker boxes with black silicon caulk and then I tried to figure out where to drill the holes for the binding posts before lining the interior with the egg crate foam and mounting the crossovers.

javeryh is offline  
post #5 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
The next thing I did was line the speaker boxes with a mattress pad made out of foam that I bought from Walmart. I used scissors to cut a long strip (I was not that precise with the foam cut) and then stapled it to the inside corners. The hardest part was finding a small enough staple gun.

I also drilled out the holes for the terminal posts on the bottom rear of the speaker. These can go anywhere - just use a 1/4" bit to drill out the holes and space them at least 3/4" apart (I did 1").





Next up was mounting the PCBs inside the boxes but I got stuck trying to find screws that worked. The speakers shipped with the feet but they are for holding the woofer in place. They do not even fit through the mounting holes of the PCB and would be too long for the back panel. I needed to buy 3/4" #4 screws for this part.

Last edited by javeryh; 07-17-2017 at 02:18 PM.
javeryh is offline  
post #6 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Next I got the PCBs mounted and I added a piece of foam to the uncovered rear panel (NOTE: this was a mistake - not enough airflow around the port so this back piece of foam will be removed).





Next up - testing!
OJ Bartley likes this.
javeryh is offline  
post #7 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
I was able to borrow a receiver/amp from a friend to test all 4 of the speakers. The good news is that they all work.

The bad news is that when testing with the receiver/amp on and the music off there was an occasional popping/cracking noise coming out of all 4 of the speakers. When the music is playing they sound GREAT.

Anyway, here are some videos of each "test" and then a couple where I was able to capture the popping noise.

Apologies for the portrait videos - not sure what I was thinking...

Speaker #1:


Speaker #2:


Speaker #3:


Speaker #4:


Popping Noises:



NOTE: The popping noises were confirmed to be interference from my cell phone. When I put the phone in airplane mode I was unable to reproduce the popping noises.
javeryh is offline  
post #8 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 02:16 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
After testing all 4 speakers I was able to glue on the front panels in order to get ready to finish these things. Due to lack of clamps (or, more accurately, a lack of clamps I want sitting in my living room), I have to do these one at a time in a super scientific way. Using math and a bunch of formulas only a few people on Earth understand (not including me), I determined a watermelon would do the trick (along with the 4 woofers) to weigh down the front panel.





Next up was spackling all of the nail holes, seams and minor imperfections. I used some MH Ready Patch I bought at Home Depot for this process - I applied it with a 2" putty knife and just kind of slobbed it on. I also cut out some paper discs to cover the opening (held in place with glue from an elmers glue stick) and some packing tape to cover the port hole. When I sand it gets messy.







And finally, I sanded everything smooth.





They came out really nice. I'm having a lot of fun putting them together. Now I'm ready to paint! I need to order some Duratex (expensive!) and it takes a few days to ship so there will be a little delay here.It is supposed to arrive Wednesday so I'll follow up with the painted speakers a little later this week.
OJ Bartley likes this.

Last edited by javeryh; 07-17-2017 at 02:23 PM.
javeryh is offline  
post #9 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 03:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Liked: 154
Nice job!
ccssid123 is online now  
post #10 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 07:49 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
acras13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Los Angeles , CA
Posts: 1,020
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 304 Post(s)
Liked: 285
Where'd you find a square watermelon? Looking good , way to go on a first effort!

Turn that $*!# UP!! --Beethoven
acras13 is offline  
post #11 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 08:42 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asarose247's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DIY enabled in SoCal / OC
Posts: 4,096
Mentioned: 91 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1137 Post(s)
Liked: 994
At about $70 per gallon, Duratex is pricey,

while waiting, maybe a primer coat of flatblack, just to proof check your final prep before a finish coat.

You'll get a lot more square footage coverage from the duratex and if you're creative AND INTERESTED IN SMOOTHer texture , you may not want to use the "as supplied hedgehog roller"

I used a 1/4"nap weenier roller for A TEXTURE CLOSER TO THAT OF "BASKETBALL PEBBLE" but that's an esthetic call . .

being primed gives you more control wrt ABSORPTION and those characteristics of a good looking paint job . .

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
asarose247 is online now  
post #12 of 54 Old 07-17-2017, 09:40 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 37
Great project and nice work.
MrBoat is offline  
post #13 of 54 Old 07-18-2017, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccssid123 View Post
Nice job!
Thanks! It wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be. I'm looking forward to building the Elusive 1099s next.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acras13 View Post
Where'd you find a square watermelon? Looking good , way to go on a first effort!
Hey! That is a square watermelon! I didn't even notice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
At about $70 per gallon, Duratex is pricey,

while waiting, maybe a primer coat of flatblack, just to proof check your final prep before a finish coat.

You'll get a lot more square footage coverage from the duratex and if you're creative AND INTERESTED IN SMOOTHer texture , you may not want to use the "as supplied hedgehog roller"

I used a 1/4"nap weenier roller for A TEXTURE CLOSER TO THAT OF "BASKETBALL PEBBLE" but that's an esthetic call . .

being primed gives you more control wrt ABSORPTION and those characteristics of a good looking paint job . .
At some point this week I am going to prime with Kilz primer (it will seal everything as well as prime). We have baseball every night this week so it's tough to find an hour or two but I'm definitely priming these first. I also like the idea of the basketball texture - I bought some foam rollers to apply the Duratex. Worst case scenario is that I can increase the nap on a second coat if I don't like the way they come out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBoat View Post
Great project and nice work.
Thanks - I couldn't have even attempted this if it wasn't for these forums and YouTube.
nlpearman likes this.
javeryh is offline  
post #14 of 54 Old 07-18-2017, 09:05 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Thanks - I couldn't have even attempted this if it wasn't for these forums and YouTube.
And to think, we used to have to find stuff like this out of books and magazines. To get the real parts, you almost had to know someone on the inside. Now we get to rub elbows with the rock stars of tech and their sources, right at our fingertips.
MrBoat is offline  
post #15 of 54 Old 07-18-2017, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBoat View Post
And to think, we used to have to find stuff like this out of books and magazines. To get the real parts, you almost had to know someone on the inside. Now we get to rub elbows with the rock stars of tech and their sources, right at our fingertips.
It really is amazing. Last year I framed, drywalled and wired all of the electrical in my laundry room after learning how to do it on YouTube. I had a certified electrician come in and inspect everything and it was all good. 10 years ago I would have had to hire a bunch of people and spend 5x more.
javeryh is offline  
post #16 of 54 Old 07-18-2017, 11:11 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 1,978
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 950 Post(s)
Liked: 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
It really is amazing. Last year I framed, drywalled and wired all of the electrical in my laundry room after learning how to do it on YouTube. I had a certified electrician come in and inspect everything and it was all good. 10 years ago I would have had to hire a bunch of people and spend 5x more.
Nice build. I am popping my DIY cherry with a trio of 893's after the first of the year, got a credit card I want to pay off first. I have a buddy who will wire and solder the XO's for me and I'm going to do the rest myself. Considering the Volt 6's for surround duty though. Not sure yet.
liffie420 is offline  
post #17 of 54 Old 07-18-2017, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Quote:
Originally Posted by liffie420 View Post
Nice build. I am popping my DIY cherry with a trio of 893's after the first of the year, got a credit card I want to pay off first. I have a buddy who will wire and solder the XO's for me and I'm going to do the rest myself. Considering the Volt 6's for surround duty though. Not sure yet.
Thanks. The soldering wasn't too bad. I never did it before but I managed to not screw it up and going forward I'm not going to hesitate trying to learn new things. There are a bunch of raspberry pi projects I have been putting off due to lack of soldering skills but when my theater is finished I'm going to dive in.
javeryh is offline  
post #18 of 54 Old 07-18-2017, 01:39 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 1,978
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 950 Post(s)
Liked: 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Thanks. The soldering wasn't too bad. I never did it before but I managed to not screw it up and going forward I'm not going to hesitate trying to learn new things. There are a bunch of raspberry pi projects I have been putting off due to lack of soldering skills but when my theater is finished I'm going to dive in.
nice. Yeah I don't even have the tools to solder so its easier to let my buddy do it. He has plenty of experience doing stuff like that, he modded an old NES game console for stereo 1/4" out plugs for a project.
liffie420 is offline  
post #19 of 54 Old 07-18-2017, 01:46 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
acras13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Los Angeles , CA
Posts: 1,020
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 304 Post(s)
Liked: 285
I dont know if its been covered before in another thread , but have you seen that Restore deck paint that HD carries? I was looking at it for ...A DECK , but it might work in place of the duratex , and it was around $40 if memory serves . The HD by me had black as one of the choices on the chip board so I assume they tint on site . Its thick and you can get more or less texture depending on how you apply , but I haven't played with it yet .

Turn that $*!# UP!! --Beethoven
acras13 is offline  
post #20 of 54 Old 07-19-2017, 04:53 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bommai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 5,370
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 585 Post(s)
Liked: 193
Yet Another DIYSG Volt 6 Build

Has anyone used a spray can paint for this? I don't really like the textured finish. I just want it black in my home theater.

Also the angled flat pack I ordered uses MDF. My friend says in need to put some kind of sealant to seal the mdf before priming if. Is that necessary?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
bommai is online now  
post #21 of 54 Old 07-19-2017, 06:28 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 1,978
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 950 Post(s)
Liked: 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by bommai View Post
Has anyone used a spray can paint for this? I don't really like the textured finish. I just want it black in my home theater.

Also the angled flat pack I ordered uses MDF. My friend says in need to put some kind of sealant to seal the mdf before priming if. Is that necessary?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Never painted MDF myself but from most of the build threads MDF tends to soak up paint pretty well especially on cut edges. I think most seal or prime at least once so they don't have to put as many coats of paint.
liffie420 is offline  
post #22 of 54 Old 07-19-2017, 06:38 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Liked: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by bommai View Post
Has anyone used a spray can paint for this? I don't really like the textured finish. I just want it black in my home theater.

Also the angled flat pack I ordered uses MDF. My friend says in need to put some kind of sealant to seal the mdf before priming if. Is that necessary?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Spray can will work without any issues so long as you put 2-3 good coats of primer on first. You can use the spray can primer as well.
ccssid123 is online now  
post #23 of 54 Old 07-19-2017, 06:43 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bommai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 5,370
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 585 Post(s)
Liked: 193
Great. Thanks. I will be getting a pair of Volt 6 by FedEx today. My friend has a work bench soldering, etc. we are going to do that on Friday. In the mean time, I will dry fit the components and make sure everything is ok. I have 1" thick jagged foam. Would that work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
bommai is online now  
post #24 of 54 Old 07-19-2017, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Quote:
Originally Posted by acras13 View Post
I dont know if its been covered before in another thread , but have you seen that Restore deck paint that HD carries? I was looking at it for ...A DECK , but it might work in place of the duratex , and it was around $40 if memory serves . The HD by me had black as one of the choices on the chip board so I assume they tint on site . Its thick and you can get more or less texture depending on how you apply , but I haven't played with it yet .
I saw people using that stuff but for the extra $25 or so I just figured I'd go with the tried and true method.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bommai View Post
Has anyone used a spray can paint for this? I don't really like the textured finish. I just want it black in my home theater.

Also the angled flat pack I ordered uses MDF. My friend says in need to put some kind of sealant to seal the mdf before priming if. Is that necessary?
Yes, sealing MDF is recommended otherwise a latex based paint will get soaked into the rough edges of MDF. You can buy primer that is also a sealant (like Kilz - cheap!) and seal and prime in one step.

Any paint finish will work just fine after you seal and prime - it just depends on the texture/look you want. I know the Duratex is supposed to help with sound too but I'm not sure how much that matters. Spray paint will work.

I'm being super anal for some reason - all of these speakers will be hidden away in columns in my theater room so the finish doesn't even matter - but I'm enjoying the process and want to make it nice.
javeryh is offline  
post #25 of 54 Old 07-22-2017, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Paint time! I used Kilz primer for the first coat to seal the edges and everything (even though the Duratex says it does the same thing). The Kilz comes white but I tinted it black to make coverage easier.









Next up is 2 coats of the Duratex and then assembling the finished speaker once dry.
OJ Bartley likes this.
javeryh is offline  
post #26 of 54 Old 07-22-2017, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Got the Duratex on this evening. It looks really good. I highly recommend this paint for speakers - it dries with a nice textured finish. I applied 2 coats using a 4" foam roller. The only tricky part is making sure you smooth everything out so there aren't any lines when the paint dries.







Tomorrow I'll finish painting the inside where the woofer goes with flat black paint, hook up the tweeter and woofer, install the binding terminals and install the port. I can't wait to test them out!
OJ Bartley likes this.
javeryh is offline  
post #27 of 54 Old 07-23-2017, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
OK - quick question... the inside lip where the woofer goes is painted black and I'm ready to assemble everything. Should I solder the 6 wires to the connection points inside of the speaker (2 to the tweeter, 2 to the woofer and 2 to the terminal posts)? Is that what most people do?
javeryh is offline  
post #28 of 54 Old 07-23-2017, 02:48 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
brian6751's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 6,867
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1648 Post(s)
Liked: 1588
No don't solder them. Use crimp connectors. I think they are 3/16 but not 100% sure atm

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk

--------------------------------------------------
FOR SALE:
Lots of stuff. Check the Audio Gear Classifieds
brian6751 is online now  
post #29 of 54 Old 07-23-2017, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
javeryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 999
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 314 Post(s)
Liked: 230
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
No don't solder them. Use crimp connectors. I think they are 3/16 but not 100% sure atm
Oh well - I ended up soldering 4 out of the 6 connections. I used the quick disconnects that came with the tweeter to hook that up. Seems like a solid connection. I tried some quick disconnects I had on hand but they were a little big and I needed to get these done today - columns are getting set tomorrow with the speakers inside!

All speakers are working - now I'm getting a low level hum from them but I'm thinking it is because of my equipment or some sort of electrical interference. I don't know... I just hope the issue goes away once they are set up in the theater room.

Final pics to come.

Last edited by javeryh; 07-23-2017 at 03:30 PM.
javeryh is offline  
post #30 of 54 Old 07-23-2017, 04:35 PM
Advanced Member
 
nlpearman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 519
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Yet Another DIYSG Volt 6 Build

Too late for the OP but for anyone else with the same question about connecting the woofers, I second the crimp connectors. I used them and they worked great - no issues.

It also makes it easier if you need to do some troubleshooting... you can easily switch woofers to isolate a woofer or crossover issue, for example.

Upgraditis Anonymous
nlpearman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off