Volt 10 IB Folding Baffle Atmos In Ceiling Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 41 Old 08-02-2017, 11:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Volt 10 IB Folding Baffle Atmos In Ceiling Build

I really wanted atmos but the wife wouldn't let me put any more speakers in the living room. But she was ok if they were hidden in the ceiling!

So I decided to do 4 IB Volt 10s. Only problem is that my living room where the speakers are is on the 1st floor of a 2 story house...no attic so they had to be installed from the 1st floor.

I also didn't want to put a box in the ceiling and make that large of a hole or have a square grill.

I designed a baffle that could fold in half so it could fit in the hole in the ceiling and then when it is screwed into/opened all the way it seals itself.

Here's how I built it for anyone else looking to do the same:

1) Cut holes in the wall the same diameter as the out lip of the baffle.



2) Cut 8, 3/4" mdf boards at 14"x7". I put them in pairs to make 14"x14" baffles and screwed them onto scrap plywood in the area where I would make the cutout for the hole. Next I used the router to make the lip and hole for the speaker. Since the Sheetrock was already 5/8" I only made the lip 1/16" deep so that the speaker had something to catch on but wouldn't go any further up beyond the sheetrock.



3) I flipped over the baffles and clamped them down and then secured the hinges with CA Glue and then screws. Then I added a foam gasket to the seam under the hinges so when it is fully open it creates a nice seal.



4) Then I clamped those down to make the foam thinner and then added hurricane bolts to the back.

5) Next I added a board onto the top to mount the crossover board to.



6) I put a thin gasket around the perimeter of the hole cutout that would seal in between the baffle and sheetrock.

7) Finally I put the baffle in the ceiling and clamped it to the sheetrock and added 4 screws to hold it tight and to create mounting points for my grill covers.

8) I put a 14"x16" piece of insulation in the ceiling that would be right behind the driver. I added each speaker.



9) Made the grill covers. Done!




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post #2 of 41 Old 08-02-2017, 11:38 PM
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Nicely done and looks good too!
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post #3 of 41 Old 08-02-2017, 11:59 PM - Thread Starter
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post #4 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 06:51 AM
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Any details on the grills? I'm going to eventually do something similar but I can access the top of the speaker so I won't have to make "foldable" mounts.
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post #5 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 08:08 AM
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That's a very clever solution to the baffle. I've thought about doing volts in ceiling so it's very interesting. Did you stuff the cavities with insulation and how did that work out as far as sound bleed? I've tinkered with the idea of using two inch blue foam to partition the cavity, at least on the ends if that makes sense, just to stop sound going all through the cavity sideways. How does it sound?

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post #6 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 08:29 AM
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great idea!!!
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post #7 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 08:50 AM
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Well done. I would have been captain caveman and ended up doing a lot of tearout and drywall repair. My basement theater may be getting an atmos upgrade now. Without the mess. Nice.

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post #8 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 09:19 AM
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Looking good, but i believe it will be noticable better sound if you chamfer the hole in front of the driver.

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post #9 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrune View Post
Looking good, but i believe it will be noticable better sound if you chamfer the hole in front of the driver.
Or use some open cell weatherstripping around the gasket area.

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post #10 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 11:49 AM
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Really sweet clever and clean . .

Hope a lot of WAF inhibited ATMOS wanna-be's find out about your contribution

for the holes . .

did you use that adjustable dust-catching Milwaukee hole cutter thingy from HD, about $30-40 ?

hole cutting challenged folks need to see that too . . tho it only goes up to 7"

this presumes to be a link> https://1520204.r.bat.bing.com/?ld=d...094_pkw__pmt__

I see PE also has one for larger cuts :Adjustable Drywall and Ceiling Tile Hole Cutter 1.2" to 11.8"
Brand:Parts Express|Part # 360-300

nice work

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post #11 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 11:58 AM
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The other trick an electrician showed me is take a butter tub or similar (cant be too tall or trim it down) and poke your drywall saw through it so the cup is pointing up. Most of the dust will then fall in the cup. Works for drills too.

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post #12 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrune View Post
Looking good, but i believe it will be noticable better sound if you chamfer the hole in front of the driver.
Do you mean chamfer the sheetrock? I may just add another 1/4" ring to pull the speaker further down.

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post #13 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince_B View Post
That's a very clever solution to the baffle. I've thought about doing volts in ceiling so it's very interesting. Did you stuff the cavities with insulation and how did that work out as far as sound bleed? I've tinkered with the idea of using two inch blue foam to partition the cavity, at least on the ends if that makes sense, just to stop sound going all through the cavity sideways. How does it sound?

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I haven't noticed any sound bleed and yes I put 14"x16" piece of insulation in there as suggested by matt.

The audio sounds great. I tested them individually to make sure I didn't screw anything up and everything sounds wonderful!

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post #14 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
Any details on the grills? I'm going to eventually do something similar but I can access the top of the speaker so I won't have to make "foldable" mounts.
Grills were made with 5mm plywood from Home Depot.

The inner diameter of the grill is about 1/4" larger than the hole in the ceiling to ensure it didn't block any sound. Then its 1.5" wide.



On the inner edge I recessed 1/2 in by 1/8" deep so there was a ledge to put the cloth on so the grill wouldn't extrude from the ceiling.



I recessed the spots where the magnets go that then connect to the screws in the ceiling.




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post #15 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
Really sweet clever and clean . .

Hope a lot of WAF inhibited ATMOS wanna-be's find out about your contribution

for the holes . .

did you use that adjustable dust-catching Milwaukee hole cutter thingy from HD, about $30-40 ?

hole cutting challenged folks need to see that too . . tho it only goes up to 7"

this presumes to be a link> https://1520204.r.bat.bing.com/?ld=d...094_pkw__pmt__

I see PE also has one for larger cuts :Adjustable Drywall and Ceiling Tile Hole Cutter 1.2" to 11.8"
Brand:Parts Express|Part # 360-300

nice work
I pinned plastic up to the ceiling and used my router and jasper jig to cut the holes...it was an absolute mess!

The wife was not happy with all the white dust everywhere so I sealed the second plastic drop up with tape and then had to clean 75% of the house from the 1st pair.

You could easily get away with just using a hand sheetrock saw but I wanted it to be perfect and needed it as one of the joists was 13.5" wide. I subsequently had to trim .5" off of the left side baffles.

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post #16 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 02:25 PM
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If you score the cut before using the hand saw it's surprisingly clean

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post #17 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vince_B View Post
Or use some open cell weatherstripping around the gasket area.

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Is that to lower the speakers further past the sheetrock?

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post #18 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 09:49 PM
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Great job, I personally doubt the little bit the driver is recessed behind the face of the ceiling will be audibly noticeable compared with it sitting flush.
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post #19 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 10:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome. I was worried for a moment there.

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post #20 of 41 Old 08-03-2017, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by deomayama View Post
Is that to lower the speakers further past the sheetrock?

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No, for reflection/diffraction from the drywall edge. Not sure it's really a big deal for this application but it would be easy to try and see if you can hear a difference.

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post #21 of 41 Old 08-04-2017, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deomayama View Post
Do you mean chamfer the sheetrock? I may just add another 1/4" ring to pull the speaker further down.

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Yes, as others have stated, to avoid difraction and reflecions and also cansellations.

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post #22 of 41 Old 08-05-2017, 10:22 PM
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post #23 of 41 Old 08-06-2017, 10:23 AM
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Well thought out design and it looks very clean. Good job man.
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post #24 of 41 Old 10-08-2017, 06:57 PM
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What a great job you have done! I think this will be my Atmos upgrade.
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post #25 of 41 Old 10-12-2017, 06:16 PM
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So how do these sound without an enclosure? Do they have a good dispersion pattern being that they are firing straight down? I have been thinking about doing the same. I installed 4 of the RSL C34E's in my Theater build, and would be replacing them and adding 4 more for Atmos. I had thought about trying to find some in-ceiling mounting frames that would work with the Volt8's.
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post #26 of 41 Old 10-14-2017, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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They sound great and the dispersion is fine. I can't tell much of a difference standing right under then vs lp. They sound great for their purpose and make multi channel music really fun too.

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post #27 of 41 Old 10-16-2017, 10:27 AM
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I am thinking of doing about the same as you. I will probably use the baffle that comes with the Volt 10's and cut it in half. Can you tell me the O.D. of the 10's? I would like to find a grill that will fit them. Thanks!
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post #28 of 41 Old 10-16-2017, 11:51 AM
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Very well done. I'm saving this thread so I can do this once I start my basement theater build!

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post #29 of 41 Old 11-06-2017, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxs450 View Post
I am thinking of doing about the same as you. I will probably use the baffle that comes with the Volt 10's and cut it in half. Can you tell me the O.D. of the 10's? I would like to find a grill that will fit them. Thanks!
I'll take a look later. Just make sure to use a thin blade to cut them and allow for the 1/8" gap it will create. Also use a good gasket there. Otherwise the driver won't fit.

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post #30 of 41 Old 11-06-2017, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deomayama View Post
I'll take a look later. Just make sure to use a thin blade to cut them and allow for the 1/8" gap it will create. Also use a good gasket there. Otherwise the driver won't fit.

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I don't need the measurement now. I did some research and found that JBL makes a in-ceiling speaker with coaxial drivers like the Volts. They have the HF compression driver firing through the middle, you can get them in enclosures, and they have a 120 degree dispersion pattern. They are pricey, but I found a pair of B-stocks for $225.00. They normally sell for $588.00 a pair. I have already installed them and they do sound good.
Thanks
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