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post #271 of 426 Old 03-05-2018, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
Try the LS12 at +6dB to +8dB at around 35-40Hz. Just a guess but probably a better one. Get a mic dude.
Is that before or after running Audy? House curve?

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post #272 of 426 Old 03-05-2018, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post
I decided to move the sub to a new spot which tamed the peak. I used 5 filters but did not use the LS6 or LS12. I'm thinking if I did Audy would try and tame it. Thanks for the continued help. Should I leave it alone or add another filter?
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post #273 of 426 Old 03-05-2018, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post
Is that before or after running Audy? House curve?
No, I'm not into house curves. This was just a blind guess for getting your sealed sub flat to under 10Hz. I recommended it before you got your mic up and running. Now that you've got your response looking good and Audy has done it's thing I would only apply one more filter to flatten out the response of the amp. A 20Hz high shelf filter at 6dB/octave to -2.5dB will flatten out the rolloff of the nuke's response and help bring 10Hz and under up a little in response. You will have to re-calibrate the trim level of the sub to counter the attenuation of the shelf by 2.5dB.

Any newbs reading this should note that this is advice for sealed subs only.
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post #274 of 426 Old 03-06-2018, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
No, I'm not into house curves. This was just a blind guess for getting your sealed sub flat to under 10Hz. I recommended it before you got your mic up and running. Now that you've got your response looking good and Audy has done it's thing I would only apply one more filter to flatten out the response of the amp. A 20Hz high shelf filter at 6dB/octave to -2.5dB will flatten out the rolloff of the nuke's response and help bring 10Hz and under up a little in response. You will have to re-calibrate the trim level of the sub to counter the attenuation of the shelf by 2.5dB.

Any newbs reading this should note that this is advice for sealed subs only.
Do I apply this before or after running Audy? Thanks again for your help.

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post #275 of 426 Old 03-06-2018, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post
Do I apply this before or after running Audy?
After. Your graph you posted was after Audy and it looks to be fine. So it should just be one more filter and you're done. How are you liking the sound so far?
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post #276 of 426 Old 03-06-2018, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
After. Your graph you posted was after Audy and it looks to be fine. So it should just be one more filter and you're done. How are you liking the sound so far?
That Graph was before Audy. Everything sounds very good but I can't wait for the UM18's to be back so I can have a sub in each corner of the room. 4 18" drivers and 2 15" drivers in a 2300cu room should sound sweet. So should I apply that filter now and re-run Audy?

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post #277 of 426 Old 03-06-2018, 10:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post
So should I apply that filter now and re-run Audy?
It shouldn't really make a difference because we're talking so low of a frequency band which Audy isn't really designed to focus on. You can do it both ways and see which way graphs better. Either way though double check it with your mic and a rew sweep. Post the graph when you get a chance.
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post #278 of 426 Old 03-13-2018, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
Hey guys. I recently ordered one of these amps (I am planning on getting 2) from BestBuy Canada. I heard the fan noise was very loud, as mentioned above, so I wanted to see how loud it was. When I plugged it in, to my surprise the fan noise was actually very quiet. To the point where it is just as quiet as my CV-5000 which I did the fan mod on. I heard that newer models have upgraded fans or something. Are the fans variable speed where it will get faster and louder with more heat or use? All I connected was power, no subs or other wiring just to see how loud it was.


If this is how loud the fans are, then maybe anyone ordering from Parts-Express is getting older models that do not have the upgraded fans or something. The way it is, there is no way I would switch out the fans.


I have only purchased 1, will hopefully purchase the second soon. I won't be able to actually hook it up for a while though.

Just an update on this. I purchased my second one, and it is the same. The fans are silent on it as well. I still have not put any of them through their paces, but when I plug them in, they are silent. One of the amps was running 2 subs in 4 Ohms each at low volume just to check the subs, and the sound of the fans remained the same. Obviously that isn't pushing it hard, but I did have them connected and running.
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post #279 of 426 Old 03-13-2018, 10:47 AM
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My NU3000DSP ramps up the speed when being pushed hard. During quiet passages one can hear it slow back down.
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post #280 of 426 Old 03-15-2018, 07:39 AM
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I am hopefully going to start playing around with the amps this weekend.


So to start off, would I essentially turn the outer knobs fully clockwise, then put the internal limiter at about -3? I will be running a 15" Sealed Ultimax in 4 ohms off each channel. I have a each pair connected together with each pair in different parts of the room. So essentially acting as 2 subs instead of 4 individual.


I would also change the signal to stereo so I can calibrate a pair as 1 correct? By doing this do i still need to connect both inputs or will it merge them together?


Thanks for the help.

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post #281 of 426 Old 03-17-2018, 12:19 PM
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OK so I just upgraded my receiver to a yamaha rx-a2070 the automatic calibration goes to 31hz but you can manually adjust to 15.6hz, this os new to me to heat about the reverse phase on the 6000dsp. Im using it to power 2ultimax 15s. I have a couple questions for running the auto calibration, should I set the front knobs of the amp fully clockwise? And I'm trying to give the sub's a clean 700rms at 4ohms also should I run them in mono or stereo? The receiver gives you bands you can set with different hz. Maybe I should have gone with auddessy xt32? �� I don't have a umik mic trying to get one borrowed. Also is the setting you posted a cheat sheet for the 20hz?
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post #282 of 426 Old 04-04-2018, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
OK, where my sealed guys at?

If you set a 20Hz high shelf filter at 6dB/octave to -2.5dB, you can make the response of the nuke flat to 10Hz:

Green: Amp response with no EQ into 4 ohm load -starts rolling off at 42Hz, 1dB down @15.7Hz, 3dB down @6.6Hz
White: Low end extender curve into same load -starts rolling off at 9.6Hz, 1dB down @6.1Hz, 3dB down @3.2Hz

For those of you sealed guys with a more advanced skill set who have measured the rolloff of their signal chain with loopbacks in REW and need to compensate for the cumulative rolloff of your components or of just your AVR's sub output, I came up with a few options to bring back up the ULF:

Yellow: Flat amp response
Purple: 20Hz, 6dB/octave high shelf at -4dB
Red: 20Hz, 6dB/octave high shelf at -6dB
Teal: 20Hz, 6dB/octave high shelf at -10dB
Grey: 20Hz, 6dB/octave high shelf at -12dB
Green: 20Hz, 12dB/octave high shelf at -10dB

For the above rolloff boosters, I'd recommend testing with worst case scenario content (ULF) and ease up the level while monitoring excursion just to make sure you're not going to put yourself in a dangerous situation with your drivers. As with the HPF cheats, the low shelf attenuation will raise the noise floor and you will have to re-calibrate your sub level. I recommend doing that by using the front knobs on the amp (or worst case the gain in the DSP) as opposed to maxing out your AVR trim as this has shown problems with clipping strong re-directed bass signals in all of the AVR's that I've tested.
Where do I enter this information in?

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post #283 of 426 Old 04-04-2018, 10:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Use the HS12 or HS6 depending on what curve you're after.

HS12 =high shelf 12dB/octave
HS6 =high shelf 6dB/octave
All of them are at 20Hz. Adjust the gain (attenuate) to match desired curve. Re-calibrate sub level when finished.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post

Use the HS12 or HS6 depending on what curve you're after.

HS12 =high shelf 12dB/octave
HS6 =high shelf 6dB/octave
All of them are at 20Hz. Adjust the gain (attenuate) to match desired curve. Re-calibrate sub level when finished.
Thank you


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post #285 of 426 Old 05-02-2018, 12:11 PM
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Nu6000dsp help with hpf cheat--lowering others

Hello I have followed the posts about the NU6000DSP high pass cheat in this thread here

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...p-rundown.html

I have set it to Butterworth 12/db and HS12, as I lower the db level to set it to 15hz high pass its almost as if there is still a huge filter on them at 20hz. I have make up an PEQ of 30,35,40,45,50 so I can lower the other frequencies to match the level of sub 20hz after the HPF is in effect.
Is this normal? Did everyone else have to lower other frequencies as well to get the response flat?

Thanks Eric
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post #286 of 426 Old 05-02-2018, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killahertz357 View Post
Hello I have followed the posts about the NU6000DSP high pass cheat in this thread here

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...p-rundown.html

I have set it to Butterworth 12/db and HS12, as I lower the db level to set it to 15hz high pass its almost as if there is still a huge filter on them at 20hz. I have make up an PEQ of 30,35,40,45,50 so I can lower the other frequencies to match the level of sub 20hz after the HPF is in effect.
Is this normal? Did everyone else have to lower other frequencies as well to get the response flat?

Thanks Eric

What kind of subwoofer? Driver? Post pics of your DSP settings please.

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post #287 of 426 Old 05-02-2018, 10:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killahertz357 View Post
I have make up an PEQ of 30,35,40,45,50 so I can lower the other frequencies to match the level of sub 20hz after the HPF is in effect.
I don't understand what you mean by this. It looks like for a 15Hz high pass, you'd be shooting for a -7dB to -8dB high shelf attenuation. Are you saying that when you do this, the knee of the high pass cutoff doesn't change?
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post #288 of 426 Old 05-03-2018, 09:22 AM
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Shreds, would using an LS12 @ 20hz +6db along with the bw12 HP achieve the same thing as using the HS12 with neg gain?
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post #289 of 426 Old 05-03-2018, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Shreds, would using an LS12 @ 20hz +6db along with the bw12 HP achieve the same thing as using the HS12 with neg gain?
No, because HS and LS filters set to the same frequency have different knees.
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post #290 of 426 Old 05-03-2018, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
I don't understand what you mean by this. It looks like for a 15Hz high pass, you'd be shooting for a -7dB to -8dB high shelf attenuation. Are you saying that when you do this, the knee of the high pass cutoff doesn't change?
When I put on the high shelf to -8 with the butterworth turned on at -12db at 20hz it almost sounds like its cutting off right at 20hz and its a lot quieter then 20hz and up. VS the 15hz or 12hz or whatever I would like to set it too. Maybe the shelf is just not steep enough and effects 20hz still?

I have to make up PEQ's to bring down 25-50hz because after I turned the the HS12 to -3 or more (-5 , -7) I had to basically crank the gain to get it to sound as loud at other frequencies then when its off. I also have to bring the other frequencies down because they are loud as F compared to 20hz.
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post #291 of 426 Old 05-03-2018, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
I don't understand what you mean by this. It looks like for a 15Hz high pass, you'd be shooting for a -7dB to -8dB high shelf attenuation. Are you saying that when you do this, the knee of the high pass cutoff doesn't change?
The graph states its supposed to be flat still from 15hz and up, past 20hz.. but in my testing its not at all. No idea whats going on. and the other frequencies are louder and I have to bring them way down. I also peak at 18hz in my room. With the filters right off, it sounds a lot better. I am worried for movies though when I have it cranked up. So I set up a windows program called Equalizer APO and was able to bring down the 1-10hz region with that surprisingly. Works pretty good to be honest.
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post #292 of 426 Old 05-05-2018, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Shreds, would using an LS12 @ 20hz +6db along with the bw12 HP achieve the same thing as using the HS12 with neg gain?
What do you mean bw12?
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post #293 of 426 Old 05-05-2018, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
What do you mean bw12?


Butterworth 2nd order
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post #294 of 426 Old 05-05-2018, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killahertz357 View Post
When I put on the high shelf to -8 with the butterworth turned on at -12db at 20hz
Nothing should be put to -12dB. You might be talking about the gain in which case things would be messed up. Just to make sure your settings should look like this:




Then you will have to use the knobs on the front of the amp to boost up the gain roughly about 8dB when you re-calibrate your sub channel to your mains. Then use the AVR's trim to fine tune the sub level.

If you do this it will lower the pole of the high pass, no doubt about it. If you're still having trouble, remember: a picture is worth a thousand words. Post some measurements and settings screens of what you're talking about and we'll definitely be able to figure out what's going on.
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post #295 of 426 Old 05-05-2018, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Butterworth 2nd order
Here is a 20Hz low shelf boost of 6dB and the bw12 HP at 20Hz:


So it would be these two responses summed together. You might be right that this is another way to approach lowering the high pass filter. It wouldn't be exactly the same but it may achieve the desired result more or less without using attenuation. It'd be an interesting experiment to see what it does to a real system at listening position. If you feel up to the challenge feel free to post the results here.

Someday I'll go back and do the loopback of the amp using this method and see what I can get going. Good job thinking outside the box Corr.
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post #296 of 426 Old 05-05-2018, 08:26 PM
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NU6000DSP Amp Rundown...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
Here is a 20Hz low shelf boost of 6dB and the bw12 HP at 20Hz:


So it would be these two responses summed together. You might be right that this is another way to approach lowering the high pass filter. It wouldn't be exactly the same but it may achieve the desired result more or less without using attenuation. It'd be an interesting experiment to see what it does to a real system at listening position. If you feel up to the challenge feel free to post the results here.

Someday I'll go back and do the loopback of the amp using this method and see what I can get going. Good job thinking outside the box Corr.


Thanks but I can take no credit. This idea was convyed by Mark Seaton in his write up regarding the B&C 21DS115-4 subwoofer project he worked on. I'll take some time soon to try the hp both ways and will report back.

Link to the write-up: http://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/po...binets-8429422
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post #297 of 426 Old 05-05-2018, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
Someday I'll go back and do the loopback of the amp using this method and see what I can get going. Good job thinking outside the box Corr.
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Thanks but I can take no credit. This idea was convyed by Mark Seaton in his write up regarding the B&C 21DS115-4 subwoofer project he worked on.
Assuming I understood corradizo's original question correctly, which was using a positive LS12 in lieu of a negative HS12, I can't help but wonder why this is being considered a novel idea. The main reason for using a negative HS instead of a positive LS is because on this DSP the HS filters have their knee lower than on the LS filters. As a result, a HS filter @ 20Hz behaves as the inverse of a LS filter that is set lower than 20Hz, essentially allowing you to accomplish what a LS filter would at a lower frequency than the DSP allows you to set. How low the knee ends up is determined by how much negative gain is used.

The different knee may have been a bug. AFAIK many or most other DSPs define the knees of their LS and HS filters identically. In any case, it works out really well to enhance the iNukes' functionality.
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post #298 of 426 Old 05-05-2018, 09:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't help but wonder why this is being considered a novel idea.
Just being supportive in the name of experimentation.

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The different knee may have been a bug.
Right. So what better way to find other bugs than through testing different things in the system? I agree with you though, you will definitely loose the Butterworth curve. By the way aron, how's the system doing these days, I haven't kept track.
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post #299 of 426 Old 05-06-2018, 02:33 PM
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Nothing should be put to -12dB. You might be talking about the gain in which case things would be messed up. Just to make sure your settings should look like this:



Then you will have to use the knobs on the front of the amp to boost up the gain roughly about 8dB when you re-calibrate your sub channel to your mains. Then use the AVR's trim to fine tune the sub level.

If you do this it will lower the pole of the high pass, no doubt about it. If you're still having trouble, remember: a picture is worth a thousand words. Post some measurements and settings screens of what you're talking about and we'll definitely be able to figure out what's going on.
Shreds did you miss a photo in this comment? "should look like this" ?
I need a high pass filter of about 14hz or so for tapped horn. Correct me if I am wrong, Set Highpass to Butterworth 12db, then a HS12 to -7 or so to achieve a highpass under 20hz?
When I do that, I have to basically crank the gain because it is very quiet compared to before. It also sounds like its cutting off 20hz still when in the graphs it shows it should still be flat. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong here?

If there are others ways to do it please let me know. Thanks and sorry for the confusion
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post #300 of 426 Old 05-06-2018, 03:31 PM
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Just being supportive in the name of experimentation.



Right. So what better way to find other bugs than through testing different things in the system? I agree with you though, you will definitely loose the Butterworth curve. By the way aron, how's the system doing these days, I haven't kept track.

@eng-399 visited today. The filter definitely protected the drivers. We didn't have time to test and measure, I'll do that as promised in follow up.
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