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post #361 of 426 Old 09-30-2018, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonmichaelh View Post
I have two sealed UM18-22’s driven by an inuke 6000dsp. One of the speakon connections on the inuke is flakey (intermittent connection follows the connector on the inuke, not the speaker cable or sub or inputs).

If I lock the speakon in place, I get no signal. I have to back it off like an 1/8th of a turn, and if it moves at all I have to reposition it to get “sub2” back.

Anyone else had this problem with inuke or other speakon connections? My inuke is fan modified, so I can’t send it for warranty. Thanks.

Just a quick question, genuine Neutrik SpeakON connectors, or 'might work'? Never had a problem in the past with a genuine Neutrik SpeakON.
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post #362 of 426 Old 09-30-2018, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Did you swap Sub 1 and Sub 2 cables at the iNuke?
Yes

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post #363 of 426 Old 09-30-2018, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Just a quick question, genuine Neutrik SpeakON connectors, or 'might work'? Never had a problem in the past with a genuine Neutrik SpeakON.
I’m using GLS Audio connectors on my speaker wire. I suppose it’s possible the “failing” sub2 out inuke connector will work with a genuine neutrik. However, the other channel/connector (sub1 out) on the inuke works fine with three different cables made with GLS connectors, all of which fail on sub2 output. That would seem to indicate the GLS connectors are good, and the inuke sub2 connector is bad. I’ll try a neutrik connector and if that doesn’t work I may need to replace the connector in the inuke.

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post #364 of 426 Old 10-01-2018, 06:00 PM
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I might have damaged my iNuke 6000dsp on the weekend or my subs, not sure which yet..
Pushed hard during one point of a song for ~20seconds.
Didn't see the volume knobs turn red and then no more output at the subs (UM18 in 4.7cuft sealed x2).

The iNuke still turns on and performs all the usual relay clicks and the light indicators work (as if sending signal) although no sound. Problem solving starts tonight, any tips are much appreciated.
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post #365 of 426 Old 10-01-2018, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitropro View Post
I might have damaged my iNuke 6000dsp on the weekend or my subs, not sure which yet..
Pushed hard during one point of a song for ~20seconds.
Didn't see the volume knobs turn red and then no more output at the subs (UM18 in 4.7cuft sealed x2).

The iNuke still turns on and performs all the usual relay clicks and the light indicators work (as if sending signal) although no sound. Problem solving starts tonight, any tips are much appreciated.
put a volt meter on the inuke output and see if there's ac voltage when you output a sine wave. If so, start checking your woofers.
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post #366 of 426 Old 10-01-2018, 07:31 PM
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Subs probably popped a coil. Test impedance with a multimeter or a AA battery on each coil if you don't have a MM.

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post #367 of 426 Old 10-01-2018, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitropro View Post
I might have damaged my iNuke 6000dsp on the weekend or my subs, not sure which yet..

Pushed hard during one point of a song for ~20seconds.

Didn't see the volume knobs turn red and then no more output at the subs (UM18 in 4.7cuft sealed x2).



The iNuke still turns on and performs all the usual relay clicks and the light indicators work (as if sending signal) although no sound. Problem solving starts tonight, any tips are much appreciated.


Put 9v battery to the subs terminals to see if it moves.
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post #368 of 426 Old 10-02-2018, 05:02 PM
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Thanks for the tips fellas.
UM18 RIP 2018
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post #369 of 426 Old 10-02-2018, 05:47 PM
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post #370 of 426 Old 10-03-2018, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Just a quick question, genuine Neutrik SpeakON connectors, or 'might work'? Never had a problem in the past with a genuine Neutrik SpeakON.
Thanks for the suggestion!

Replaced my GLS connector with a genuine Neutrik and no more connection problem! The Neutrik connector feels much better in hand and seems to be a much higher quality product, at about 2x the cost of the GLS knock-off.

System I | Sony 75Z9D | Oppo BDP-203 and 103D | ATV5 | Energy Veritas 1.8 (LR) | 2.0 (C) | 2.0R (S+SB) | Mirage OMD-5 (FH, RH)
Yamaha CX-A5100 | MX-A5000 x 2 | Dayton UM18-22 Sealed x2 w/ iNuke 6000DSP | Panamax Power 360 Strip
System II | Sony 75Z9D | ATV5 | Yamaha RX-A1070 | NAD T973 | Mirage OMD-28, OMD C2, OMD-5 | SVS PB12+/2
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post #371 of 426 Old 10-03-2018, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonmichaelh View Post
Thanks for the suggestion!

Replaced my GLS connector with a genuine Neutrik and no more connection problem! The Neutrik connector feels much better in hand and seems to be a much higher quality product, at about 2x the cost of the GLS knock-off.

Good to know! Parts express is about the best source for low priced Neutrik SpeakON connectors.
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post #372 of 426 Old 10-05-2018, 01:24 PM
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How come the drivers cooked? Aren't they supposed to handle the iNUKE power (way less than 2kw per channel)?
Clipped signal?

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post #373 of 426 Old 10-07-2018, 11:09 AM
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Well Clipping will kill it and overheat the coil!


You were using in a 4' sealed enclosure?

Spoiler!
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post #374 of 426 Old 10-08-2018, 04:49 PM
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4.7' sealed.
I incorrectly wired the subs in a moment of stupidity. Only connecting one set of terminals
Popped the lead in wire going over the spider.
Don't think there is any coil damage, still investigating.
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post #375 of 426 Old 10-13-2018, 06:23 PM
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I was curious on size cause I have one in a sealed enclosure and the other in a ported one and the sealed I can hear it struggling and I now keep the gain lower on that one untill I build my matching ported enclosure.

Spoiler!
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post #376 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 10:38 AM
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I guess i can put the pics up here too. The NU replacement: NX seems to have the same parts inside, so they should perform the same as the outgoing ones.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
Swapped the fans for Noctua’s on my new NX6K and took some pics vs NU6K. Looks the same inside, the right circuit board even has the same number.














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post #377 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 11:33 AM
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Looks as they down rated the output on 4Ohm.
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post #378 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 02:18 PM
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NU6000DSP Amp Rundown...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
I guess i can put the pics up here too. The NU replacement: NX seems to have the same parts inside, so they should perform the same as the outgoing ones.

@Nalleh - did the noctua fans lower the overall sound level? BTW where did you get the nx6000d? All the sites I see say 11/9 date. Oh and what size fans did you use?


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post #379 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by chiptouz View Post
@Nalleh - did the noctua fans lower the overall sound level? BTW where did you get the nx6000d? All the sites I see say 11/9 date. Oh and what size fans did you use?


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Yes, they did, that why i swapped them I have used various Noctuas earlier, but now got these:

https://noctua.at/en/nf-a8-flx

These are dead silent, and comes with several low noise filter you can use, depending on your need. And cheap .

This is not the D model, it is a regular NX6000 (no DSP) version. I got a open box from :

https://www.gear4music.com/us/en/PA-...Amplifier/2G7Z

(Only from the Norwegian division)
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post #380 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fackamato View Post
How come the drivers cooked? Aren't they supposed to handle the iNUKE power (way less than 2kw per channel)?
Clipped signal?

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Actually, at 4 ohms, the inuke 6k does not put out way less than 2kW per channel. It is actually slightly over based on the testing done by BigDWiz on youtube.

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post #381 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebb View Post
Actually, at 4 ohms, the inuke 6k does not put out way less than 2kW per channel. It is actually slightly over based on the testing done by BigDWiz on youtube.
Here's a more accurate test: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post51012305

4 ohm, 1211 watts per channel (1529 burst) at 40Hz.
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post #382 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fackamato View Post
Here's a more accurate test: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post51012305



4 ohm, 1211 watts per channel (1529 burst) at 40Hz.


Not sure what to believe. When @Ricci tested the x21 sub loaded with the 21DS115-4 on an iNuke 3kdsp bridged he indicated it went into protection at 77v at 3ohm which is close to 2000w output. So I think it can do more than 1200w in my application ( I have built 2 similar subs (but with a much bigger port).

https://data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=144&mset=168
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post #383 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Not sure what to believe. When @Ricci tested the x21 sub loaded with the 21DS115-4 on an iNuke 3kdsp bridged he indicated it went into protection at 77v at 3ohm which is close to 2000w output. So I think it can do more than 1200w in my application ( I have built 2 similar subs (but with a much bigger port).

https://data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=144&mset=168
Right. But that wasn't an iNuke 6000 running in stereo, it's not an apples to apples comparison.
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post #384 of 426 Old 10-14-2018, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fackamato View Post
Here's a more accurate test: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post51012305

4 ohm, 1211 watts per channel (1529 burst) at 40Hz.
Thanks. That does look more comprehensive. It is at 4.4 ohms though. I expect 4 ohms would be slightly more.

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post #385 of 426 Old 10-21-2018, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
I guess i can put the pics up here too. The NU replacement: NX seems to have the same parts inside, so they should perform the same as the outgoing ones.

Hey Nal, nice to see you again and great work, I appreciate it. I'm going to link this post on the front page of this thread.
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post #386 of 426 Old 01-04-2019, 11:24 AM
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...Anyone know how to (Delete Amp Presets) in Setup ??
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post #387 of 426 Old 01-04-2019, 11:27 AM
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...Anyone know how to (Delete Amp Presets) in Setup ??
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post57376796
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post #388 of 426 Old 01-23-2019, 10:44 AM
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Just to double check, if my inuke is wired out of phase just changing around the inputs on the sub will “fix” the issue or is there more too it?

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post #389 of 426 Old 01-23-2019, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
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Just to double check, if my inuke is wired out of phase just changing around the inputs on the sub will “fix” the issue or is there more too it?
that's it.
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post #390 of 426 Old 02-22-2019, 03:43 PM
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Hey guys, quick question/observation.

I've been setting up my NU6000D for 180 phase from info in this thread. I've been matching my subs to the mains by tweaking distance and looking at REW sweeps to decide when it's right. I recently added a second sub and decided to look at REW phase and impulse graphs to see where the subs were at. The numbers for distance were out of whack.

This prompted me to check my RCA<->XLR cable from monoprice and ohm it out. The "hot" signal (center pin of the RCA) lines up with the "hot" pin indicated in the 6000 manual:



Furthermore, I downloaded the Polarity Test wav file in this thread (thank you!) and sure enough, the drivers were being "sucked in" on the pulses.

So at least for me (and my cable), I don't need to set the NU6000D to 180 phase. I've been running with 180 phase for a while so it's kind of a mind-blow. I'm off to change phase and go through the whole deal again....
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