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post #31 of 68 Old 09-01-2017, 06:07 PM
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Those should be on stands. They aren't tall enough to be used as towers with optimal tweeter height.


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post #32 of 68 Old 09-02-2017, 05:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I was planning on stands of some sort but do I need to add rubber feet to the bottom. Seems like the flat bottom might not sit well. Like this:

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post #33 of 68 Old 09-02-2017, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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All 3 speakers are glued. I used 8 clamps for this. Kind of hard to make sure everything stayed perfectly centered but I think I did a good enough job. I also traced all of the speaker parts and cut out the shapes with scissors (not precise) and used a glue stick to hold the paper in place for when I sand. I don't want dust getting inside.





I still have to put some tape over the port holes but it's time to prep for spackle. I'm going to sand the cabinet smooth and then apply spackle where needed. If all goes well I hope to be able to start painting tomorrow.
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post #34 of 68 Old 09-02-2017, 07:32 AM
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Those look great!I'm very jealous!

I've been looking at the 1099's for quite a long time.I'm looking to replace my 20+ year old NHT 2.5's.

Earlier this year I built a Fusion 8 center channel(only size center channel that would fit under TV on top of my
entertainment rack)I want some mains to go with it.I've lusted after the 1099's since I stumbled on to DIY Soundgroup's site.

Sorry to jack the thread!

Great looking build!
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post #35 of 68 Old 09-02-2017, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markg35 View Post
Those look great!I'm very jealous!

I've been looking at the 1099's for quite a long time.I'm looking to replace my 20+ year old NHT 2.5's.

Earlier this year I built a Fusion 8 center channel(only size center channel that would fit under TV on top of my
entertainment rack)I want some mains to go with it.I've lusted after the 1099's since I stumbled on to DIY Soundgroup's site.

Sorry to jack the thread!

Great looking build!
Thanks!! I'm going on faith here as I know nothing about speakers and all the ones I'm building over the last month are my first set in over 10 years. So far so good...

I made some more progress today and I'm not done working yet. I sanded everything smooth on all 3 speakers using 80 grit sandpaper and then spackled all of the seams. Not hard - just messy and time consuming.





I'm in the process now of sanding down the spackle with 220 grit to get paint ready. I'm hoping to at least get the primer on today. My plan is to lie the speakers on one side and paint the back panel and then when that dries I'll turn the speakers so they are on their backs and then paint the other 5 sides. I'm using my kid's blocks to keep them elevated so there are only 4 small areas where the speaker is touching anything... If there is a better way, please let me know!
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post #36 of 68 Old 09-02-2017, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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All 3 speakers are sanded. Getting ready to paint.





I wish I had 2 more TV trays so I could set up all three at once!
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post #37 of 68 Old 09-03-2017, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
I wish I had 2 more TV trays so I could set up all three at once!
One thing to do before you end up mounting the drivers (so probably still a couple days out) is to spray paint the back area where the ports go into the enclosure black. If you have white foam in the back, or the brown mdf still showing, it's possible for light to catch it and see inside there. This is not actually an issue with it being behind the screen, but since you are finishing them like they won't be, I thought I'd toss that out there.
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post #38 of 68 Old 09-03-2017, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
One thing to do before you end up mounting the drivers (so probably still a couple days out) is to spray paint the back area where the ports go into the enclosure black. If you have white foam in the back, or the brown mdf still showing, it's possible for light to catch it and see inside there. This is not actually an issue with it being behind the screen, but since you are finishing them like they won't be, I thought I'd toss that out there.
Thanks - I wouldn't have thought of that. I'm not sure why I'm finishing these like I'll be staring at them every day. Things like this push the finish line farther and farther away and I'm losing steam...
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post #39 of 68 Old 09-05-2017, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Got a lot of work done this weekend. I primed and painted all three speakers with Duratex. It was a pain because I had to paint the back panel on all three first, wait for it to dry and then paint the other 5 sides. For each coat. So there was a lot of waiting.





I used the leftover Kilz I had from painting the walls in the theater room. This went on quick.





The Duratex did not go on so quick. does anyone have any tips for working with this stuff? I was using a 4" foam roller and no matter what I tried I could not eliminate roller lines. They are only visible when the light hits at a certain angle but they are there and making me crazy. The second coat did go on easier and with MUCH better coverage but it still isn't what I'd consider perfect. These pics were taken after the first coat. Should I be using a nap roller? A third coat? Just curious. These are being hidden behind a screen so they are good enough but I have 2 Stonehenge subs I'll be working on next...

Tonight I'll paint the inside edge around all of the cutouts with ordinary black paint (Behr with primer in one). Then all that's left is to hook everything up so I should be finishing these very soon.
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post #40 of 68 Old 09-05-2017, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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What a nice surprise! My lovely wife painted the inside of each opening on all three speakers for me today while I was at work so I think I'll be able to start installing everything when I get home tonight!



It looks great!
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post #41 of 68 Old 09-05-2017, 02:43 PM
 
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Yet Another DIYSG Elusive 1099 Build

A safe bet is to let them dry at lest 3 hours and don't move them until the 24 hour mark
I have never used a single nail on a speaker or sub box. I have use counter sunken Screws on the back for setting to my drivers or crossovers for repairs


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post #42 of 68 Old 09-05-2017, 02:46 PM
 
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Yet Another DIYSG Elusive 1099 Build

Great The pics are showing me that your doing a nice job, just don't rush it. Parts express tech dep can help you with how much polyfill to use. The more you add, the larger the box seams to be to the drivers


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post #43 of 68 Old 09-05-2017, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Question: The DIYSG kit came with 3 strips of foam. 2 short strips and one long strip - am I supposed to use this around the mids and the horn to seal them in?? I'm not sure what else it could be for. They are too short for the woofers.

Thanks!
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post #44 of 68 Old 09-05-2017, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Question: The DIYSG kit came with 3 strips of foam. 2 short strips and one long strip - am I supposed to use this around the mids and the horn to seal them in?? I'm not sure what else it could be for. They are too short for the woofers.

Thanks!
You are correct. The two shorter seals are for the mids. And the longer is for the waveguide.
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post #45 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Work pics are showing me that your doing a nice job, just don't rush it. Parts express tech dep can help you with how much polyfill to use. The more you add, the larger the box seams to be to the drivers
Thanks - so is that good or bad? I ended up filling each section of the speaker somewhat loosely. All of the volume was taken up but I wasn't stuffing as much in there as I could. Seemed OK but I have nothing to compare it to since these are basically my first set of speakers.

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You are correct. The two shorter seals are for the mids. And the longer is for the waveguide.
Thanks - it went on very easy. Any reason why you don't seal the woofers? Just curious.
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post #46 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Last night I managed to get one speaker completely finished! The first thing I did was crimp on connectors to the ends of each wire coming out of the PCB - 12 total.



Next, I had to wire up the input wires to the binding posts. This was not too difficult but I did have to use a hammer to get the posts in place (I covered the posts with a cloth so I didn't damage anything). Once I had the posts where I wanted I poked them through the mattress foam and added the washers and nuts and the wire back to the PCB. I used a wrench to tighten the nuts.





After the binding posts were installed, I added polyfil to the inside of each area. Not too dense but not too light - somewhere in the middle - and I tried to make sure that the entire volume was at least filled with the stuff and of course keeping the wires outside of the box so that I could connect everything.



Next, I added the foam strips to the outside of the mids and the wave guide openings. The foam had a sticky back so this was real easy.



Finally, I connected the speaker parts to the wires - they were a little loose so I did have to squeeze the ends of the connectors ever so slightly to make sure I got a snug fit that wouldn't loosen over time. Once a woofer/waveguide or mid was in place I used a 3/16" drill bit and drilled out all of the holes for the screws using the holes as a guide. This sounds scary but isn't. The screws went in easily.



Oh yeah - somewhere in there I installed all of the ports - they just push right into place. No glue or connectors required. The front panel is machined perfectly for a snug fit.

Next up - finished shots of the speaker!

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post #47 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 09:01 AM
 
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Sorry the spell check on my iPhone took control lol. Your doing a fine job. You can all was add or remove stuffing and hear what's best


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post #48 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 10:10 AM
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Might want to only use Pollyfill
In the center sealed chamber. It could block airflow to the ports in the woofer chambers


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post #49 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Might want to only use Pollyfill In the center sealed chamber. It could block airflow to the ports in the woofer chambers
OK - is that what most people do? I can take out the polyfill in the woofer chambers. I don't want to mess things up after coming this far!
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post #50 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Depending on whether or not I should remove the polyfill from the woofer chambers, the first speaker is finished! Here are some final shots:









All things considered I'm pretty happy with the way this turned out. It looks great even though the final resting place will be behind a screen. Tonight I'm going to finish up the other 2 speakers and move on to the Stonehenges...
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post #51 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 10:54 AM
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OK - is that what most people do? I can take out the polyfill in the woofer chambers. I don't want to mess things up after coming this far!


Yes. People usually use insulation or open cell foam/bed topper for ported and Pollyfill for sealed. Make sure not to pack it into the sealed chamber either. It should be filled but not compressed.


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post #52 of 68 Old 09-06-2017, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes. People usually use insulation or open cell foam/bed topper for ported and Pollyfill for sealed. Make sure not to pack it into the sealed chamber either. It should be filled but not compressed.
Thank you! I will take out the polyfill tonight and see how it sounds. When I tested it (briefly, because the kids were asleep) it did sound a little muted so hopefully this change will make it sound fuller. I am using a crappy receiver and my iPhone though so that may factor into it as well - I was just happy to get sound!
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post #53 of 68 Old 09-07-2017, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Last night I completed speaker #2 and fired it up. It sounded much fuller than speaker #1 - probably because I left out the polyfill from the top and bottom chambers as suggested. Tonight I will finish speaker #3 and remove the polyfill from speaker #1 (the post-it note is my reminder!).



I'm running out of room on the first floor of the house for all of these speakers!
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post #54 of 68 Old 09-07-2017, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Last night I completed speaker #2 and fired it up. It sounded much fuller than speaker #1 - probably because I left out the polyfill from the top and bottom chambers as suggested. Tonight I will finish speaker #3 and remove the polyfill from speaker #1 (the post-it note is my reminder!).



I'm running out of room on the first floor of the house for all of these speakers!
Great thread, I can't wait to get my 1099s, and you aren't helping! Did you have to source the crossover pcbs elsewhere or do they come with the kit?

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post #55 of 68 Old 09-08-2017, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Great thread, I can't wait to get my 1099s, and you aren't helping! Did you have to source the crossover pcbs elsewhere or do they come with the kit?
Thanks! They were fun to build and not too hard. The crossover PCBs do NOT come with the kit. I got them from @ja00 and they were a huge help. @mtg90 will assemble the crossovers for you and from what I can tell he does a great job. I was thinking about asking him to do mine but after successfully building 4 Volt 6s I was confident I could do the 1099s.

Anyway, here is a video of the speakers actually playing something.


They sound great, HOWEVER, I'm not sure if you can hear but in the very beginning of the video (before I press play) you can hear a buzzing/humming noise. This happens when I turn on the (crappy) receiver but before I play anything. This happened with all 3 1099s and all 4 Volt 6s so I'm hoping it is just some interference due to the bad receiver or the iPod/iPhone nearby. Anyone know what could be causing this? I don't think it will be an issue when I'm watching a movie but if I pause it and 7 speakers are humming it will be quite annoying.
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post #56 of 68 Old 09-10-2017, 08:53 AM
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That's interference.

Nice job on the speakers!


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post #57 of 68 Old 09-11-2017, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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That's interference.

Nice job on the speakers!
Thanks!!

Is interference something that can be dealt with or just something I have to live with? I can't hear the humming when the speakers are on so probably not a huge deal but I want to make sure I'm doing what I can to minimize it. All of the speaker wire in my theater room was run in a soffit away from electrical wires so I'm hoping when I get these in their final resting place I'll be OK...
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post #58 of 68 Old 09-11-2017, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Last night I completed speaker #2 and fired it up. It sounded much fuller than speaker #1 - probably because I left out the polyfill from the top and bottom chambers as suggested. Tonight I will finish speaker #3 and remove the polyfill from speaker #1 (the post-it note is my reminder!).



I'm running out of room on the first floor of the house for all of these speakers!
Awesome speakers! I have 1099's and Volt 8's for surrounds. Very nice sound.

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post #59 of 68 Old 09-16-2017, 04:42 AM
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Have you installed these in there 'final resting place' yet? Lol. What do you think of the sound now that some time has passed.
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post #60 of 68 Old 09-16-2017, 04:49 AM
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Personally I find this style of wire stripper easier, and more flexible, to use - pretty sure you'll be able to get something similar in the States. It can remove the outer sheathing and then strip all three cores of wires at once - brilliant bit of kit, and cheap enough too!
I've had a set of these for about a year, they are the wire strippers I've always dreamed of. Accuracy of strip point is a little tricky, sometimes it helps to cut a little slice exactly where you want the strip to start.

You can now buy this type at Walmart for under $15.

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Awesome speakers OP!
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