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post #61 of 207 Old 09-17-2017, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by antiprnt View Post
I intend to follow this guide, assuming the vinyl that comes with the kit is similar.
https://www.parts-express.com/resour...l-how-to-guide
The Swans vinyl is not self-adhesive (unless I'm blind, which is very possible), but that is a good guide. I figured an x-acto knife and razor blades were in order for this project. I think, based on the size of the two sheets per speaker that the larger one covers one side, the top and the other side as one piece. The other would be the front, bottom and back. It may be easier for me to paint...still debating.

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post #62 of 207 Old 09-17-2017, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleNixon View Post
The Swans vinyl is not self-adhesive (unless I'm blind, which is very possible), but that is a good guide. I figured an x-acto knife and razor blades were in order for this project. I think, based on the size of the two sheets per speaker that the larger one covers one side, the top and the other side as one piece. The other would be the front, bottom and back. It may be easier for me to paint...still debating.
Ah, good to know about the vinyl. I elected for slow shipping, so I don't get the kit (3.1) until Thursday. I've been searching for other vinyl kits as I a flex 12 box to finish and wanted to experiment with smaller boxes first.
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post #63 of 207 Old 09-18-2017, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Glad to hear that these things sound good! Just got my kit in on Friday, just waiting for my soldering iron and wood glue to come in. Hopefully I can assemble both kits in one night so I can compare them,otherwise it might be a few days (currently working crazy hours at work because of the hurricane, haven't had a day off in 2 weeks). I'll probably ignore the vinyl wrap and either try and veneer them sometime down the line or try something else... Maybe plasti-dip? I'm quite anxious to hear how they sound. My current L/R are a $100 pair of pioneer FS51 towers, which are ok for movies but are not that great for music.
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post #64 of 207 Old 09-19-2017, 11:07 PM
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I finally finished the boxes to the 3 way set. I had to use screws in addition to just clamps. I've never worked with miter joints before and things got messy. My goal is to pull the screws, patch, sand and put a round over on the corners and paint the cabinets. Still a long way to go.
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post #65 of 207 Old 09-19-2017, 11:10 PM
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It looks like I need to order some tools, is this a good soldering iron? Something else I should consider?

I suppose clamps might also be handy?

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post #66 of 207 Old 09-20-2017, 02:20 AM
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That soldering iron should be fine. Except for solder you will not need any of the other tools for this job, it is so simple. The solder in the kit looks like the kind used for smaller components..but it should work fine you will just go through it faster.

The desoldering pump (or better yet some desoldering braid wire) may be useful if you are like us and could not wait to vinyl or paint the cabinets. Desoldering the drivers and removing them makes the final finish much simpler.

Like AverageJoe I had never assembled mitered cabinets before so that was a bigger challenge. Like the instructions suggest I put the center brace in first and let it dry a bit. That helped stabilize the other pieces. Yes clamps really help this stage. I think Dale used weights but he would have to tell us how that works. The instructions show 6 clamps I think. I used 2 bar clamps and 2 band clamps and I think for the small cabinet that is probably just as good as six bar clamps. Work fast so you can adjust the edges as it goes together. (Note, I have never done this before so my advice is suspect). I think if you have access to a pin nailer that would make things a lot simpler.

The good news is that thick MDF and mitered edges means most of the mistakes will be easily remedied by patching, sealing and sanding, and sanding, and sanding.
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post #67 of 207 Old 09-20-2017, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ggroch View Post
I think Dale used weights but he would have to tell us how that works.
I attached one piece at at time starting with one side onto the brace. I used light weights (1/4 lb. plates) for setting the tops and bottoms after the other four pieces were set. I figured I'd never get it straight if I did it all at once using all of the clamps the way the instructions recommended doing.

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post #68 of 207 Old 09-20-2017, 10:07 AM
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Agreed ... Mitred joints do make assembly a challenge if we are only used to butt joints.
I ended using in excess of 10 clamps to make sure that all sides are clamped tight, and making contact. What helped me a great deal was using painters tape to get pieces in place, and then started tightening the clamps.
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post #69 of 207 Old 09-22-2017, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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So I might require some help. Finally got my boxes and crossovers assembled yesterday, then spent half the day trying to figure out why the first speaker wouldn't work (while the 2nd one dried). Turns out I didn't correctly strip the inductor. Didn't even know that was a thing. Spent all day desoldering and resoldering different components to try and solve that one...

Now my issue is my other speaker, which I thought I had learned from my mistake with the first one, So I assembled everything and soldered everything and it worked... for all of 10 seconds. It tripped my receiver after 10 seconds. But by that time I had to go to sleep for work, which is where I'm at now. Any idea why i'd be tripping my receiver? Wires touching where they shouldn't be? Did I possibly solder something incorrectly?

Another question is about the filling provided. Should I stuff it mostly around the port area or around the main area where the crossover is? Thanks guys!
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post #70 of 207 Old 09-22-2017, 07:18 AM
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VE, I think we let you down a bit because we should have mentioned stripping the varnish from the inductor coil connections as an easy to miss part of the process. It is mentioned in the instructions but not emphasized.

As for the short, it is possible you have a defective driver but that is not the most likely cause. Certainly check your soldered crossover connections visually. For old guys like me a magnifier helps. I think the most likely place for a short may be at the speaker connections. If either wire is shorted either to the other, or to the speaker frame it could cause issues. It is tight in there, so look for even a stray thread of wire. Make sure you did not strip so much of the ends that they could contact something metal when you insert the speakers. If everything inspects correctly, you could try testing each driver from the bad cabinet in the good box to see if a driver is bad.

If visually you see nothing, an Ohm meter will help you find the short. They are very cheap if you do not have one and you need nothing fancy. Most of the shorts I run into come from my speaker wire connections, either at the speaker or at my amp.

As for the acoustic filling, I agree with the description in the instructions, that is, place it far back against the rear and side panels. I do not think you need to worry about blocking air movement to the port from the woofer. The entire cabinet will be pressurized as the woofer moves, so the air will get out fine. The padding is designed to block sound waves from bouncing off the hard surfaces, not block air.

Another note, the instructions talk about gluing the rear port to the cabinet, and I agree with Dale that it fits pretty tight. However, on mine the connection between the cardboard tube and the plastic port horn was not that tight, and if it falls off inside the cabinet after the speaker is built you will have to take the woofer out. So, I used some glue between the cardboard and plastic.

Last edited by Ggroch; 09-22-2017 at 07:29 AM.
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post #71 of 207 Old 09-22-2017, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ggroch View Post
VE, I think we let you down a bit because we should have mentioned stripping the varnish from the inductor coil connections as an easy to miss part of the process. It is mentioned in the instructions but not emphasized.

As for the short, it is possible you have a defective driver but that is not the most likely cause. Certainly check your soldered crossover connections visually. For old guys like me a magnifier helps. I think the most likely place for a short may be at the speaker connections. If either wire is shorted either to the other, or to the speaker frame it could cause issues. It is tight in there, so look for even a stray thread of wire. Make sure you did not strip so much of the ends that they could contact something metal when you insert the speakers. If everything inspects correctly, you could try testing each driver from the bad cabinet in the good box to see if a driver is bad.

If visually you see nothing, an Ohm meter will help you find the short. They are very cheap if you do not have one and you need nothing fancy. Most of the shorts I run into come from my speaker wire connections, either at the speaker or at my amp.

As for the acoustic filling, I agree with the description in the instructions, that is, place it far back against the rear and side panels. I do not think you need to worry about blocking air movement to the port from the woofer. The entire cabinet will be pressurized as the woofer moves, so the air will get out fine. The padding is designed to block sound waves from bouncing off the hard surfaces, not block air.

Another note, the instructions talk about gluing the rear port to the cabinet, and I agree with Dale that it fits pretty tight. However, on mine the connection between the cardboard tube and the plastic port horn was not that tight, and if it falls off inside the cabinet after the speaker is built you will have to take the woofer out. So, I used some glue between the cardboard and plastic.

Thanks for the help! You didn't let me down at all. I saw in the instructions they mentioned the coating on the inductors, but I looked at it and saw what seemed to be bare wire and I assumed that it was a mistake.

Hopefully it will be a simple fix tonight. I knew I should have tested everything before fully assembling, but I was tired, it was late, I wanted to finish, and I was being arrogant after getting that first one to work. and of course that leaves me with more work to be done!
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post #72 of 207 Old 09-22-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by VegetarianEater View Post
I saw in the instructions they mentioned the coating on the inductors, but I looked at it and saw what seemed to be bare wire and I assumed that it was a mistake.
Me too...and I didn't strip them yet mine work. When I take things apart to finish the cabs I'll redo those just to be safe. And yeah, good point Ggroch about the cardboard tube being a bit loose. I am gluing that piece as well.

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post #73 of 207 Old 09-22-2017, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Me too...and I didn't strip them yet mine work. When I take things apart to finish the cabs I'll redo those just to be safe. And yeah, good point Ggroch about the cardboard tube being a bit loose. I am gluing that piece as well.
Yeah my tweeter was working without me stripping it which is why it took me so long to figure out the issue. I'll probably go back and strip the tweeter as well.


BTW (general comment here) I've only built the 2.2 set so far, I haven't touched the 3.1 kit yet... I hear it sounds even better so I'm looking forward to when I have the time to put those together...
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post #74 of 207 Old 09-22-2017, 07:16 PM
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Grills & set #2

Well I finished the grills, but honestly I don't plan on using them and would rather see the speakers themselves. The backs are kind of a mess, but can't be seen once installed.





And I think I've settled on how one of my sets will be finished..with 1/2" oak plywood, just right over the MDF. and oak band edging. (Yes, it's gonna be very heavy.) I'll leave the baffle and back alone...probably paint it black. I will miter cut the plywood and have it overhang in the front like I think the Klipsch Heresey's adding a pull-tag of some sort to take out the grills if I do put them in. I am thinking of a very light stain for now.

My 2nd set of 2.2A's just arrived. On these I may also do plywood, but may replace the sides, top and bottom with just plywood, leaving out the MDF, making it lighter, but also increasing the volume so I can shorten the overall depth (bringing volume back to stock) since these are a little too deep for the bedroom location I have planned.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg grill front.JPG (427.9 KB, 1617 views)
File Type: jpg grill back.JPG (569.4 KB, 1617 views)
File Type: jpg grill on unfinished mdf.JPG (461.7 KB, 1619 views)
File Type: jpg Swans 2.2A set number 2 resized.JPG (484.6 KB, 1628 views)

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post #75 of 207 Old 09-24-2017, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Update: Got my speakers working friday night, and after tinkering with them a little bit yesterday (adding the foam spacers to the drivers, making sure everything was tight) and playing them for a bit I'm finding the bass a bit lacking. Not sure if it's a placement issue in my room, or maybe a cabinet leak or something. When I turn up the volume and check the port in the back, i'm feeling some airflow, but nothing compared to what i've felt with other speakers, especially my little 8" subwoofer which puts out a lot more bass despite only being 100w and turned up halfway. I know this isn't a receiver issue because I made sure when i was testing bass output my sub was set to off and my speakers were set to large. I was expecting a much greater amount of bass based on Dale's review, comparing them to his RF 82IIs. So far from what i've heard my Pioneer FS51 towers have more bass across the range, and those definitely have much less bass than Klipsch RF 82IIs.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong? Running them through a Pioneer VSX-80 Receiver, took off the eq that was set for the pioneer towers, using direct sound to play ALAC files from a USB... Or maybe I just need to seal up the cabinet better? When I get home tonight I'll try and run just bass tests to see how much output I can get. If I can't get some serious airflow out of the port then i've probably done something wrong...
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post #76 of 207 Old 09-24-2017, 07:02 AM
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VegetarianEater, Glad to see you got them working, did you figure out what was causing your shutdown issues?

It is not possible for cabinet leaks to impact the bass output of your speakers to any significant degree, (unless you forgot to put a side on or something like that). The rear port is a giant cabinet leak so you would have to see major gaping holes like that to have any impact. If you put your ear to the rear port you should hear deep bass, but you will not feel a lot of air like from a sub.

In terms of things you could have done wrong that impact the bass - either wiring one of the woofers internally out of phase (hooking the plus wire to the negative terminal) or wiring one of the rear terminals that way, or simply hooking one of them to your amp out of phase is the most likely culprit.

My earlier comments about their great bass had more to do with how deep they get (re: concern over the 60HZ spec on the back label). I think it likely that they have less total bass output amount than your Pioneer Towers, but probably get deeper. The frequency cure for the DIY 2.2A shown on the Hivi Site shows a flat accurate response. . In my room they sound slightly bright with no EQ or tone controls. When I used a better quality amp the high frequencies sounded more balanced, but I still like them with a 2DB treble cut on some music.


Changing their location in the room, putting them closer to a rear wall will increase the bass a lot.

You could also go through the Room EQ process using the Mic that came with your VSX-80 to see how that impacts things. If they sound hugely different when you do that, their could be something wrong in your wiring, or you could just have placed them in a spot in the room that does not emphasize bass. The built in EQ circuits are one of the best things that has happened to receivers cause you can get accurate sound without changing your room.

If they still sound bass-lite to you after the EQ it would indicate they are accurate but you prefer a more bass enhanced sound. Although using EQ or Tone controls is frowned on by some audiophile types, unless your room has been treated to be perfectly accurate then bumping or cutting bass/treble makes great sense. Every recording studio is heavily EQed because no 2 rooms are the same. You should be able with slight adjustments in placement and EQ get plenty of bass.

Last edited by Ggroch; 09-24-2017 at 07:19 AM.
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post #77 of 207 Old 09-24-2017, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Spoiler!
The cause of my issue was the input wires touching from being too close together and me stripping too much insulation off of them.

Don't get me wrong guys, the sound coming from the woofer is pretty good, I just wish it were a few db hotter, particularly under 100hz. I could try messing with the EQ, though my receiver's lowest EQ point is 63hz I think. I might just need to tone the treble or mids down a bit. It could definitely be speaker placement for me. The reason I mentioned airflow was because the little monoprice energy take knockoffs can move some air out of their tiny port. Again I was basing my expectations on Dale's review, he mentions the bass is nearly as strong as the Klipsch towers, which would have more bass than my pioneer towers. But currently my 2.2s are getting beat by the pioneers in bass output. I am using a sub so it's not a huge deal, I just always prefer more bass haha.
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post #78 of 207 Old 09-24-2017, 03:29 PM
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Something has to be wrong. While they are not equal bass-wise to the rf-82's they are more than I expected. Yes, check for out of phase wiring and double check the soldering. When I first hooked one up there was no bass at all because the woofer was not even working. What looked like a good solder was not, it had not spread/melted onto the pcb like the rest.
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post #79 of 207 Old 09-24-2017, 10:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Something has to be wrong. While they are not equal bass-wise to the rf-82's they are more than I expected. Yes, check for out of phase wiring and double check the soldering. When I first hooked one up there was no bass at all because the woofer was not even working. What looked like a good solder was not, it had not spread/melted onto the pcb like the rest.
So two things I noticed from my testing today:

1. The right woofer seems to be about 1-2db hotter than the left, using my hand touching it confirm what I was hearing (less movement).

2. Apparently my listening position is just in the right spot to get no bass from my mains... my subwoofer placement is great, bass is fine with the sub, but for some reason the bass from my L/R is terrible at my listening position. Confirmed this by walking to the right of the right speaker and I was hearing a ton more bass, and then I stood about 3 ft to the right of my listening position and about 1.5 ft back, and suddenly I found the bass I was looking for... unfortunately the only other way I can set my TV up is against the sliding glass door or awkwardly along the neighbors wall, which i don't want to do...

So yeah, I was wrong about the bass from these, it's apparently just at my seating position. Not sure how i'll move them to get more bass out of them, but i'll try.
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post #80 of 207 Old 09-25-2017, 12:27 AM
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VE- Setting location and your amp up is always more complex on surround receivers, especially if you are using a subwoofer but not using the Auto-EQ which fixes many ills.

If the subwoofer, because of its location relative to the DIY's is out of phase with them some of their deep bass will be canceled and it will sound like you describe when you walk around. This is pretty common. It would certainly be worth adjusting the phase of your sub (either with a control on the sub, or from the receiver).

Just as common, if the Pioneer is not feeding a full range signal to the DIY's but instead routing deep bass (below 80 Hz) to the sub you will get of course less bass from the DIYs. I believe selecting "Large" during the initial speaker setup avoids this on your receiver but it varies depending on brand and model (and choosing "Direct" processing usually does not alter this setting, the bass still goes to the sub).

That said, you may well be right and your listening location could be in a null and that could be the whole issue. I do not think the speakers have a bass emphasized balance anyway, they are neutral if your room is neutral. However, they are very bass capable meaning that bumping the bass with tone controls or manual EQ should allow them to reach the levels appropriate to your room or your preferences. Do you own Beats headphones by any chance? (just kidding).

Sorry if I sound like a lecturer....but training Home audio salespeople and techs is what I did for many years. So, I lecture.
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post #81 of 207 Old 09-25-2017, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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VE- Setting location and your amp up is always more complex on surround receivers, especially if you are using a subwoofer but not using the Auto-EQ which fixes many ills.

If the subwoofer, because of its location relative to the DIY's is out of phase with them some of their deep bass will be canceled and it will sound like you describe when you walk around. This is pretty common. It would certainly be worth adjusting the phase of your sub (either with a control on the sub, or from the receiver).

Just as common, if the Pioneer is not feeding a full range signal to the DIY's but instead routing deep bass (below 80 Hz) to the sub you will get of course less bass from the DIYs. I believe selecting "Large" during the initial speaker setup avoids this on your receiver but it varies depending on brand and model (and choosing "Direct" processing usually does not alter this setting, the bass still goes to the sub).

That said, you may well be right and your listening location could be in a null and that could be the whole issue. I do not think the speakers have a bass emphasized balance anyway, they are neutral if your room is neutral. However, they are very bass capable meaning that bumping the bass with tone controls or manual EQ should allow them to reach the levels appropriate to your room or your preferences. Do you own Beats headphones by any chance? (just kidding).

Sorry if I sound like a lecturer....but training Home audio salespeople and techs is what I did for many years. So, I lecture.
No worries, I can handle a good lecture haha. I was actually doing all my testing with the subwoofer off and set to "no" on my receiver, and when I set SW to off it automatically sets my mains to large. When I use the sub I set the crossover to 80hz, and the bass is definitely not lacking. However I would prefer to set the crossover even lower, to 50hz on my receiver, but the problem is with midbass disappears with my current setup.

So it's definitely a problem with speaker placement relative to my listening position, the bass is just not getting to me from where the mains are, though my subwoofer is almost too hot in it's current spot ( 2 feet to the left of my left speaker).

I actually had Sennheiser HD598 headphones for about 8 years, which are very bass light. Currently using Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX, which are amazing and have much more bass than the 598s, but are nowhere near beats haha.
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post #82 of 207 Old 09-25-2017, 11:11 PM
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I finally got time to hook up the 2 way kit. It definitely exceeded my expectations. The bass is not as deep as a floor stander and I think 60hz is about as low as it gets in my room. The imaging and sound staging are decent with the highs being a touch forward. Maybe the drivers need breaking in. I don’t think there is anything that comes close to it in the $200-$250 territory.
I have a pair of bamberg MT, carmody’s carrera, ascend 170se and NHT super zero. I’ll compare them over the weekend and update my post. But, folks who are on the edge, don’t fret. This is the real deal. $125 or $199 now is a bargain/steal for what you are getting.

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post #83 of 207 Old 09-26-2017, 08:53 AM
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cacophonix, you certainly have a nice inventory to compare them with. I am hoping that the DIY 2.2a's surpass the Ascends and Super Zero and are not embarrassed too badly by the Carmody.

I have always been a fan of 2 way monitor speakers, the set I owned I liked by far the best were ACI Sapphire XLs that used a similar Revelator woofer to the one in the Carmody, a Scan-speak dome tweeter and well designed cabinet and crossover. After a brief listening to my DIY 2.2s (they have been taken apart so I can complete the finish) I sold my JBL Studio 530s. I had heard enough from the 2.2a's to know I would be happy with them.

I think I heard similarities between the 2.2a and ACI in terms of speed, midrange detail and smoothness, and overall musicality. They do sound a bit bright in my hard surfaced listening room, lacking the Scan-speak's liquidy and sweetness, but a slight treble cut makes things quite acceptable. As more experienced DIYers build them, perhaps there will be tweeks to the crossover or tweeter replacements that move them up a category.

I guess my point is that my initial impression is the DIY 2.2a compares well with small monitors in the $500-$800 range, which is what I would hope based on their component quality.
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post #84 of 207 Old 09-26-2017, 10:23 AM
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I'm running mine with crown xls1502 and emotiva DC-1 fed by chromecast audio. The sound is definitely good. I only compared it with the Bamberg MT which retailed for about $800, if i recollect right. The highs of Bamberg are a bit more subdued comparitively, but seem to be more three dimensional, with the voices placed further back. There seemed to be more layers to the sound. But then again, this is from -really- listening to the sound with all the lights off at 11pm. I doubt that during the day, with me multi tasking, i'd be able to tell one from the other. Phil Bamberg is a crossover guru who pretty much extracted everything out of these peerless drivers ... so its no surprise that his design comes ahead. But the hivi was by no means humbled.

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post #85 of 207 Old 09-26-2017, 02:04 PM
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Interesting because I sold my upstairs set of rf-82's because mainly the Swans take up less space than the towers. Also they are probably better for music. Yes, I agree the highs are a little accentuated, but they are smoother than those Klipsch's.
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post #86 of 207 Old 09-26-2017, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleNixon View Post
Interesting because I sold my upstairs set of rf-82's because mainly the Swans take up less space than the towers. Also they are probably better for music. Yes, I agree the highs are a little accentuated, but they are smoother than those Klipsch's.
I've never been a fan of klipsch highs ... too piercing, and fatiguing. I hear good things about the newer RP series tweeter though.
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post #87 of 207 Old 09-27-2017, 10:34 PM
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I've finished my building of the 3.1 and now I'm on to prepping for paint. But I had a questions on what your thoughts were on the included foam stuffing. It's basically 4 chunks, 2 long 2 short, but it seems like pretty dense material. Any concerns with it?
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post #88 of 207 Old 09-28-2017, 06:07 AM
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I've finished my building of the 3.1 and now I'm on to prepping for paint. But I had a questions on what your thoughts were on the included foam stuffing. It's basically 4 chunks, 2 long 2 short, but it seems like pretty dense material. Any concerns with it?
RE: Foam Stuffing - If someone knows of a measurement-based reference as to the impact of acoustic damping in ported cabinets I would love to see the link. Most of the references I find indicate that placing the materials up against the inside walls, especially the back, reduces unwanted reflections without negatively impacting efficiency or bass quantity. But a lot of the advice (including mine) seems to be based on how builders think it works rather than measurement.

I think the optimum placement would be pressed against the walls, and I see no downside. These cabinets are thick enough that the primary concern is probably reducing internal reflections back to the woofer rather than sound leaking through the cabinet. On my initial build of the 2.2 I placed the damping more randomly. As I now know the 2.2s are not overly bass heavy, when I re-assemble them after finishing I will position the damping right against the walls. But, its impact is just a guess. The instructions for the 2.2 do suggest placing the damping against the inside walls, do the 3.1 instructions provide guidance?

I see the Amazon price on both the 3.1 and 2.2 have dropped $10 to $239/$189 this morning.

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post #89 of 207 Old 10-04-2017, 08:41 AM
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Finally completed the initial finish of my DIY2.2a pair. I say initial because I chose a satin white lacquer finish and am already having issues keeping it clean. The good news is that I think they look fine, much better than the vinyl would look. I used 3 coats of Killz aerosol primer followed by 2 coats of Valspar White Gloss aerosol lacquer. Sanding between all coats with a final wet sand 800 grit to give it a satin finish. Finally get to listen again. Photos attached.

I'm thinking dark green or gray if I can't keep them clean.
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post #90 of 207 Old 10-04-2017, 09:18 AM
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.....but for some reason the bass from my L/R is terrible .....
Has anyone taken measurements of their 2.2A Kit? Based on my measurements, your findings do not surprise me.

I took the attachment measurements the other day. The measurement were taken on axis with the tweeter with a distance of about 22".

No smoothing but 5.25ms gating was employed, making reponse below say 200hz useless. Nonetheless, you can see how the response climbs nearly 10db between 300hz and 15KHz.

I'd love to see other people post their findings. Also, given the T/S parameters I measured, the box/tuning is not at all suitable for the bass driver.
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