No excuses Stereo Integrity HT-18 build........The Pedestal - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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No excuses Stereo Integrity HT-18 build........The Pedestal

Every sub needs a name, so this one is the Pedestal build, because that's what it closest resembles.....a pedestal.


This is the easiest,cheapest biggest bang for the buck build I could come up with for DIY. If you can do it cheaper then good job !


This has a super small footprint,21x21 inches, and looks furniture like, so it should also have a high WAF if painted to match/blend in. Also the height could be reduced very easily, although performance would suffer a slight bit. This is a sealed box, but could easily be ported with a little more work,not much if you used a round tube port, simply make another round hole.


This sub will beat any commercial retail offering you can get for the same price, you will need a amp to run it so that cost is up to you. The driver is rated at 600 watts rms......but many people run more to it. A capable amp can be picked up easily for 100 bucks used. Making the total cost for this at 300 bucks approx.


159.99 for the driver delivered
29.95 for a sheet of 3/4 MDF
5.00 for 2 tubes of glue


I had lowes do all the cuts on this so it would be as easy as possible with minimal tools needed. After having them cut the sheet down to size it would fit in a Fiat 500,smallest car I can think of, so no truck needed.

Only thing you will have to do is cut the circle for the driver, I paid 20 bucks for a cheap jigsaw, I have seen them for 5 bucks at yard sales and swap meets, maybe you can borrow one for free or worst case, find some one willing to cut the hole out for the driver for you. Running a jigsaw is super easy, anyone can do it. There really is no excuse not to build this, well maybe you can find one, but it does not get any easier than this.


It is a 20x20 box with a cap on the top and bottom, so cuts do not have to be perfect by any means. I had lowes do all the cuts and they did a pretty good job, it is not perfect, but I am going to assemble as is because it is not super critical in this build design. I could have easily had them trim a 1/8th inch of the one cut that was long, but choose to go as is to show how easy and forgiving this build is.



Here is a picture of the MDF after lowes cut it, very small package, easy to transport and deal with.


Little pile on the bottom and left is the scrap......maybe with a more complicate cut list one could make use of them, but they are not needed....




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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #2 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 01:44 PM - Thread Starter
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The cut list is super easy........have them lay the sheet of MDF side ways 4 foot tall, 8 foot wide. Make a cut at 36 inches, make a second cut at 36 inches....the box is now almost half way cut......you now have 2 - 36x49 inch squares and a smaller 29x49 piece , set the smaller piece to the side for now.


Now the first 36x49 piece and have them stand it up with the 36 inch top to bottom and 49 wide. Make 2-20 inch cuts from it, those are the front and back, set the leftover to the side. Set the 2 - 20x36 inch pieces on the cart, those are complete.


Now take the second 36x49 piece and have them orient it the same way,36 top to bottom and 49 wide, and make 2 cuts at 18.5 inches. Set the 2 - 18.5x36 inch pieces on the cart, those are the sides of the box. Set the smaller piece to the side.



Now take the last big piece, the 29x49 piece , that was left over from the first 2 cuts. Have them stand it up 49 inches tall by 29 inches wide and make a cut at 21 inches. Set the small piece to the side.


Now have them lay the 21x49 inch piece down, 21 inches tall by 49 inches wide. Have them make 2 cuts at 21 inches, making 2-21 inch squares for the top and bottom. Set the small cut off to the side and put the 2-21x21 pieces on the cart. Set the smaller piece to the side.


Now for the easiest part, the braces....take all the small left over pieces you set to the side and have them cut all of them into 18.5 inch pieces.


That's it.........everything is cut and ready to assemble.....cuts cost me nothing to have done, now wheel the cart up to the front and pick up 2 tubes of glue on the way out. I used Loctite PL-375 heavy duty construction adhesive.






Load it all up and give yourself a high 5, you had lowes cut you a sub box for free and saved yourself hundreds of dollars and you are going to have a way way better sub than you could ever buy at this price retail........
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post #3 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 02:33 PM
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Just though I'd point out that if you power both of your pedestals with the NU1000 you will be significantly underpowered. Going from bridged out 4 ohms to stereo 4 ohms each channel will probably drop the amp's max output by close to 2dB. Then factor in the 3dB in gain you'd get from doubling the drivers and you're left with an improvement in headroom of 1dB after all of your hard work building the 2nd cab. Might as well get an amplifier that is better matched to the load demand or preferably with some headroom so you don't get into compression and you'd get your 6dB of headroom from your upgrade and all of the glory that comes from dynamic reproduction.

I like your pedestal cabs though, they're pretty cool looking for as simple as they are to build.
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post #4 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 02:45 PM
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Also, the PL 375 is easier to work with because it tacks up quickly but when it comes to permanent wood bonds, it can't mess with the:
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post #5 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Now for the easy part, assembly, even if you do just one piece a day, in about the time it takes to receive a sub thru shipping you will be done. Do not worry, assembly is a no tools needed job and easier than a 10 piece jigsaw puzzle, we already know where the pieces fit here.......




Yes, the hole for the driver needs to be cut, take the 20 inch wide 36 inch tall piece, either one..........mark the center, should be approx. 10 inches from each side and 14 inches from the bottom........that's the center of the driver, now mark a 16 11/16ths big circle. One can use a string or any other method that works. If you are stuck go watch a youtube video on how to draw/mark/layout a circle.


https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...le+with+string


There are many vids in the above link, here below is a example of one.





Then cut with the jigsaw..........and you end up with this.....this is the only cut you need to make happen.






Now I am assembling this myself as I guess many would be, if you have a helper all the better, if not, this is how you get it done with special tools....






Nope nothing hiding underneath...it is just sitting there waiting to be glued together.....at this point you could just let the glue dry before carefully moving on to the next piece the next evening. Maybe a piece of tape to hold it as some have used.





I have a hammer and some finish nails...6d`s, it will be tacking it together as I am going to build it all at once. In the truth of full disclosure, I will also be pre drilling and using screws to keep it all together since I stopped on the way back from lowes to pick up a movie to watch tonight and there is no way the glue will be dry by then......


If you can get nails a hammer and screws and a drill I highly recommend it, but it is not mandatory........waiting each day for the glue to dry is time consuming and I am impatient......


PS....Camo boots are mandatory.........no flip flogs or garden clogs/crocks.......
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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html

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post #6 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Now its all down hill and easy as can be......




Glue and assemble taking car to keep it all flush and even......perfection is not needed, but the closer the better. Then apply some tape and walk away or apply some nails to hold it in place while you pre drill and screw it together. You want to be careful when nailing and screwing to prevent any cracking or the material. Always pre dill before screws and with nails you can flatten the point a little to help cut a bigger path thru the material. Just turn the nail upside down on a hard surface and tap the point lightly with a hammer.....you will see it flatten the tip some.



Here in the pics you can see,,,,use lots of glue, too much is better than not enough.....pile it on....





Don't be shy......put some glue on it.....





This what we want....oh yeah, look at it ooze out every where, now we are doing it !




If it is not pouring out of both sides you did not use enough........


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post #7 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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OMG that looks horrible, there is glue EVERYWHERE...... What have I done.....J/K....it will be fine.


A quick scrape along the outside before it dries and it is as good as new......









You run your finger down the inside and smooth it out also, but it is ok if you do not, no one will ever see it.




For some of the advanced readers with tools, notice the bit to predrill for screws and the forstner bit to counter sink the heads.....makes for a quick easy finish later....

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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html

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post #8 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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But, but, but you said no tools required............they are highly recommended and can be used for a lot of different things, so it is not just for this. Tools are never a waste of money !


I let that side sit , while edit these pics in the post above and making that post so it had time to set a little bit before moving things around.



Now it is time to do the other side......yes, I know the first one was a little work to get all lined up and going, especially by yourself, but each piece gets easier and easier as we go and by the end of the project you will think it was not that hard at all....


I am building this in real time as I post.....do a step, take pics,post, go back outside and do the next step.........started well after noon, should be done in no time......it starts going easier and quicker with each piece.


Here is the third piece.....one more piece and we have all 4 sides done.....






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post #9 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Now we are moving right along.........doing double duty.......2 strips of glue, 2 sides at once !


Same as before....pile the glue on, carefully line things up, scrape excess glue off when wet, run finger down inside...










Then lay the face on, there is no wrong side, there is no top or bottom...........badboom we have a almost completed box ..







Its almost over now, super easy street from here on out !!!!!!
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post #10 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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You might be thinking that's way too easy, it is.....


But what about being square, a observant carpenters eye has probably noticed it looks a little out of square...........that's because it is....... But no worries, that's part of the beauty of this design....lots of wiggle room for imperfections, no need to be a master carpenter here.



Here is a pic showing how out of square it is.......

OMG dude you ruined it, you built a junk box..........we will see in the next steps how it all goes away !






OK, I caught you using tools again, all this talk of no tools and you just keep breaking out more and more tools I do not have.....


Remember that stack of extra pieces we were not using, well I used a small piece already as a scraper for the excess glue and if you look at the picture below, they also have another use.......a make shift square ......

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post #11 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 06:46 PM
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Nice job. All you really need is painters tape . One tip. Let the glue dry before you install the sub and seal it up. The gases the glue emits could possibly mess with the glue holding together the sub driver itself causing it to fail prematurely. Ymmv.

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post #12 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Are we having fun yet, because if we are not, it is time to pack up the stuff and go home.......this is fun and being built for more fun.........even had time to fix a foo foo coffee with baileys mudslide irish cream....


Even this part is about having fun and enjoying yourself.....life is too short to not have fun and be serious all the time.....





This and this.....NO NO NO NO NO !!!!!!




This and this.....yes yes yes and is recommended.....

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post #13 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I was fighting the sunset, so I had to snap pics and keep building before posting. As the sun went down and I could see no more is about the time I was walking in the door with the tools and the completed sub ....


Picking up where we left off.......


Now it is time to insert the braces that were all cut at 18.5 inches....you need to keep them away from the driver cut out and away from the back of the driver a couple inches. You can see in the pictures how the braces go in and in what locations. Each one is a different width and best fit in a certain location to give the best possible bracing with what materials we had from one sheet of MDF.


That and lots and lots of glue..........LOTS of glue......








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post #14 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 07:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Lots and lots of glue........


I even did the inside corners of the cabinet.......at this point I am over a tube of glue, used approx. a tube and three quarters on the entire project. Use the glue its cheap and the more the better........


Would this guy quit going on about the glue and just post more pictures......
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post #15 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Now for the top and bottom lid......I chose the front as what I wanted to look the best as far as hiding the out of square box...........looking straight and even.


It is hard to tell at all, but that is the side that will be seen in my application, so I made it look the best.


You can see in the picture below how far the cut was off I mentioned earlier in the post, could have had him cut it again, could have cut it myself at home. I left it to show that for this application it is not a issue. No need to be a master craftsman to build this one.....

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post #16 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Guess what I am going to suggest when you have a cut mismatch like that......


Go yell at the lowes guy who cut your box for free.........sand on it for a hour to get is close.......


NO, use MOAR glue, pile it on !........



Then plop the lid down on top as straight as possible......put some weight on it and let dry. Being sure to wipe the excess glue away on the outside while it is still wet. Or use nails and screws so you knock the project out and get er done.....


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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html

Last edited by unretarded; 10-11-2017 at 07:52 PM.
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post #17 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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You might be thinking, hey, this guys got a bunch of tools and he is some of master craftsman and is trying to show off or trick me into building a sub......some might think I am scritty mc scrooge the wood butcher builder of unsanctioned evils.......and out of square projects.


I am just trying to show it is easier than you think and it can be done..........so what if you mess something up, the entire wood and glue bill is 35 bucks if you had to buy everything again.


If you take your time, ask questions and try your best, I am sure something very usable will come from your efforts.

In the end it will get painted black, stuffed behind something, shoved in a corner with the lights off, put behind a screen and the minor faults with it long forgotten once you hear it......
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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #18 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 08:25 PM
 
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What driver will you install in the box
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post #19 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 08:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the final result put in the house for the night and following best practices, I am going to let it cure and the glue set up until tomorrow just to be safe.......I already have a duplicate behind my chair right now, so I will not risk it.


Besides that, I have to put the wimpy inuke 1000 out of the rack to make room for the 60 pound BGW professional series amp so I can put some real power to these subs........


In my best imitation of the gunny..............GO BUILD A SUB YOU MAGGOTS !


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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #20 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlthess40 View Post
What driver will you install in the box


Stereo Integrity HT V2 18 incher for 159 bucks........


This box is made for that driver so you can apply the full rated 600 watts with no high pass filter needed, all is needed is the AVR LFE output to the amp of your choice.


Of course one can get a minidsp or a amp with dsp and tune to perfection if desired or simply find the best location in your room and let it rip ........

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #21 of 44 Old 10-11-2017, 09:46 PM - Thread Starter
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For those wondering whats in the background....


I am building a shed, but needed a day off from it, so I decided to build the sub box as my day off/break time.......


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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #22 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 07:25 AM
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Great build! What size are the final dimensions? Internal volume?

Very nice looking shed!
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post #23 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks !


It is approx. 21x21x37.5 and approx. 6.4 ft3 internal volume.......

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #24 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
Just though I'd point out that if you power both of your pedestals with the NU1000 you will be significantly underpowered. Going from bridged out 4 ohms to stereo 4 ohms each channel will probably drop the amp's max output by close to 2dB. Then factor in the 3dB in gain you'd get from doubling the drivers and you're left with an improvement in headroom of 1dB after all of your hard work building the 2nd cab. Might as well get an amplifier that is better matched to the load demand or preferably with some headroom so you don't get into compression and you'd get your 6dB of headroom from your upgrade and all of the glory that comes from dynamic reproduction.

I like your pedestal cabs though, they're pretty cool looking for as simple as they are to build.

Thanks !


My brother hooked me up with a hand me down amp I will be using.


It is a old 60 pound BGW performance series 4 amp, should be just about right to stay within the power ratings of the driver.


Specs:
440W /ch @ 8 ohms
660W /ch @ 4 ohms
1320 W bridged mono @ 8 ohms
1850 W bridged mono @ 4 ohms
Intermodulation Distortion Less than 0.05% at rated output (SMPTE method, 60Hz & 7kHz, 4:1 ratio)
Hum and Noise Level Better than 100dB typical below rated output into 8 ohms (A-wtd., 20Hz to 20kHz)
Damping Factor Greater than 200:1 (ref. 8 ohms)
Built-in, switching limiter
Both 1/4" and XLR balanced inputs
Switchable -6db input pad
Mono/stereo switch
Front-mounted power switch
Power, signal, and clip LEDs
Large, heavy-duty volume pots and knobs



Not sure if I want to run one on each channel or just bridge it and run both on bridged. I do not understand how all the dynamics come into play with amps or what benefit there would be to running in the 2 different configurations.

The subs will be directly behind the seats, inches away and only 2 foot apart, so they could be run in bridged since they will not need different delays or DSP to them.
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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #25 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
Thanks !


My brother hooked me up with a hand me down amp I will be using.


It is a old 60 pound BGW performance series 4 amp, should be just about right to stay within the power ratings of the driver.


Specs:
440W /ch @ 8 ohms
660W /ch @ 4 ohms
1320 W bridged mono @ 8 ohms
1850 W bridged mono @ 4 ohms
Intermodulation Distortion Less than 0.05% at rated output (SMPTE method, 60Hz & 7kHz, 4:1 ratio)
Hum and Noise Level Better than 100dB typical below rated output into 8 ohms (A-wtd., 20Hz to 20kHz)
Damping Factor Greater than 200:1 (ref. 8 ohms)
Built-in, switching limiter
Both 1/4" and XLR balanced inputs
Switchable -6db input pad
Mono/stereo switch
Front-mounted power switch
Power, signal, and clip LEDs
Large, heavy-duty volume pots and knobs



Not sure if I want to run one on each channel or just bridge it and run both on bridged. I do not understand how all the dynamics come into play with amps or what benefit there would be to running in the 2 different configurations.

The subs will be directly behind the seats, inches away and only 2 foot apart, so they could be run in bridged since they will not need different delays or DSP to them.
Blown many JBL's with that Amp , its plenty and has more headroom then the inuke.
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post #26 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
For those wondering whats in the background....


I am building a shed, but needed a day off from it, so I decided to build the sub box as my day off/break time.......








That looks a lot like a....Marty Shed
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post #27 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks !


It is approx. 21x21x37.5 and approx. 6.4 ft3 internal volume.......
Thats a really, really, small shed. Looks bigger in the pics. :-D
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post #28 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok...the verdict is in....2 of these are ........











Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #29 of 44 Old 10-12-2017, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
My brother hooked me up with a hand me down amp I will be using.

It is a old 60 pound BGW performance series 4 amp, should be just about right to stay within the power ratings of the driver.
Yeah man, now you're talking. Probably won't need the amp's input pad with the mini. @johnplayerson will be happy that you'll be using some old iron.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
Not sure if I want to run one on each channel or just bridge it and run both on bridged. I do not understand how all the dynamics come into play with amps or what benefit there would be to running in the 2 different configurations.

The subs will be directly behind the seats, inches away and only 2 foot apart, so they could be run in bridged since they will not need different delays or DSP to them.
I find the best results in sound and impact sending 2 of the same subs the same EQ settings. Because of this I usually stick to bridged output. This takes out of the equation any difference in output of the 2 channels as well due to component tolerances. If your bridged response is terrible sometimes there is an advantage in running stereo and changing the delays to the 2 subs to even out the response.
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post #30 of 44 Old 10-13-2017, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreds View Post
Yeah man, now you're talking. Probably won't need the amp's input pad with the mini. @johnplayerson will be happy that you'll be using some old iron.



I find the best results in sound and impact sending 2 of the same subs the same EQ settings. Because of this I usually stick to bridged output. This takes out of the equation any difference in output of the 2 channels as well due to component tolerances. If your bridged response is terrible sometimes there is an advantage in running stereo and changing the delays to the 2 subs to even out the response.
I agree bridged is best, but running the wires in series to 2 dual voice coil drivers in separate boxes would be a wiring nightmare. I got a taste of the system last night, stereo mode works just fine...
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