SI IB-24 subwoofer - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 56 Old 10-15-2017, 07:56 PM - Thread Starter
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SI IB-24 subwoofer

GOt a question about subwoofers.
With the Dayton Audio UM-18 being pushed back AGAIN, this time to December, other options are being looked at. One of which is the Stereo Integrity IB-24. I have an iNuke3000, planning to bridge to an UM18. The iNuke was delivered weeks ago waiting for a speaker. Today the IB-24 was modeled in WinISD. Both it and the UM18 are rated 1000 watts. However, the IB-24 modeling with a sealed box calls for over 16000 liters!(T-S params attached for reference) Stereo Integrity says 12-16 cubic foot box is recommended. So in WinISD the box size was changed to 453 liters/16 cubic feet. The attached graph shows the SI IB-24 in red at 453 liters, the dayton UM18 in yellow. With the lower volume, the IB-24 in red has a slight rise 1dB around 50 Hz.

Looking for others more experienced opinions. My intention is to put this in the basement below the living room for movie bass feel. I don't want the bass vibrators, but something to maybe rumble the house like in a theater.

Questions:will the 453 liter box be fine for the stereo integrity IB-24?
Will the iNuke bridged be too much for the IB-24? The consensus here is the Daytom UM18 is OK with this rated at 1000wattsRMS. Will the IB24 be ok too?
What performance increase/difference/perception in felt bass will the IB24 give vs the UM18?
Will it be worth the cost doubling? Or should one be patient and wait for the UM18's?
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post #2 of 56 Old 10-15-2017, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebb View Post
GOt a question about subwoofers.
With the Dayton Audio UM-18 being pushed back AGAIN, this time to December, other options are being looked at. One of which is the Stereo Integrity IB-24. I have an iNuke3000, planning to bridge to an UM18. The iNuke was delivered weeks ago waiting for a speaker. Today the IB-24 was modeled in WinISD. Both it and the UM18 are rated 1000 watts. However, the IB-24 modeling with a sealed box calls for over 16000 liters!(T-S params attached for reference) Stereo Integrity says 12-16 cubic foot box is recommended. So in WinISD the box size was changed to 453 liters/16 cubic feet. The attached graph shows the SI IB-24 in red at 453 liters, the dayton UM18 in yellow. With the lower volume, the IB-24 in red has a slight rise 1dB around 50 Hz.

Looking for others more experienced opinions. My intention is to put this in the basement below the living room for movie bass feel. I don't want the bass vibrators, but something to maybe rumble the house like in a theater.

Questions:will the 453 liter box be fine for the stereo integrity IB-24?
Will the iNuke bridged be too much for the IB-24? The consensus here is the Daytom UM18 is OK with this rated at 1000wattsRMS. Will the IB24 be ok too?
What performance increase/difference/perception in felt bass will the IB24 give vs the UM18?
Will it be worth the cost doubling? Or should one be patient and wait for the UM18's?
I would look at Max SLP, SPL, PE, excursion etc and everything else, not just that one graph you posted. I modeled them and 2 [email protected] each in 8cf will equal the SI24 in [email protected] if WINISD is accurate. In 12cf the 2 UM18 will have around 2-3dB more output down lower but then bump the SI 24 up to 26cf and it pretty much equals the 2 UM18s.

So it depends on what you want and how much space you have. Some will prefer 2 smaller enclosures spread out in the room and some might prefer the 24 and add another one later.

Why not go with 2 of the SI HT18 for $160 each they are pretty close in output to the UM18. So 2 of them should be close to 1 24".

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post #3 of 56 Old 10-15-2017, 10:26 PM
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I agree with bscool on this one. 4 stereo intergrity 18's are cheaper than 1 24 so unless your space limited I would do that.
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post #4 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 04:29 AM
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The 24's are great subs, but having multiple subs does have an advantage (depending on how you set them up) in smoothing out the response...
Those HT18's are great drivers - it would be worth going with multiples of those...
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post #5 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquepattern View Post
The 24's are great subs, but having multiple subs does have an advantage (depending on how you set them up) in smoothing out the response...
Those HT18's are great drivers - it would be worth going with multiples of those...
From what I'm reading, in fact, that is exactly what multiple subs does! Placing 4, one on the middle of each wall is supposed to be ideal with one in each corner second. Unfortunately, the WAF is really low so unless you are a single guy you probably can't shoot for that configuration.

It is almost always mo betta to go with multiple cheaper drivers than one really expensive one -- especially when bas s is concerned. Four HT18s will out perform 1 24" every day of the week. The other advantage is that you could cross the 18 with a 8-10" driver in a satellite whereas a 24 is truly a sub bass driver (IMO). Four ST18s delivered is about $800 bucks or so. Plus they can be placed more strategically in four smaller boxes. Even two 18s have 12% more area than the 24, though the xmax is a bit less. This is why the really big drivers have such a limited market. If you have lots of money and really want and can afford a world-class home theater then the 24" would offer some special appeal.
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post #6 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyandersen View Post
From what I'm reading, in fact, that is exactly what multiple subs does! Placing 4, one on the middle of each wall is supposed to be ideal with one in each corner second. Unfortunately, the WAF is really low so unless you are a single guy you probably can't shoot for that configuration.

It is almost always mo betta to go with multiple cheaper drivers than one really expensive one -- especially when bas s is concerned. Four HT18s will out perform 1 24" every day of the week. The other advantage is that you could cross the 18 with a 8-10" driver in a satellite whereas a 24 is truly a sub bass driver (IMO). Four ST18s delivered is about $800 bucks or so. Plus they can be placed more strategically in four smaller boxes. Even two 18s have 12% more area than the 24, though the xmax is a bit less. This is why the really big drivers have such a limited market. If you have lots of money and really want and can afford a world-class home theater then the 24" would offer some special appeal.
I have a pair of the HS24mk2 drivers... They are incredible subs for sure! They do need some very large enclosures and a couple kW to drive them... But they are totally worth the price if one can afford such equipment... They are supurb at reproducing the lowest of the lows, and they do very well up higher in the frequency response as well!
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post #7 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 07:51 AM
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I used to think multiple cheaper drivers would be the better option, but not anymore. I recently swapped my 12 SI 18s for dual RE XXX ported and I like the way the new setup sounds over the previous. Here are 4 different variations of my room. The new system just has a different sound than the other drivers.


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I say get the 24 and add one later.

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post #8 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquepattern View Post
I have a pair of the HS24mk2 drivers... They are incredible subs for sure! They do need some very large enclosures and a couple kW to drive them... But they are totally worth the price if one can afford such equipment... They are supurb at reproducing the lowest of the lows, and they do very well up higher in the frequency response as well!
No doubt there is a limitation ti the rule of thumb, but for 1/3 the cost you can get 80-85% of the sound. If I had less budget constraints the SI 24 would certainly be on my hit list! Still it won't go very hi so if a person has some satellites it's like you would also need something to fill in the upper bass.
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post #9 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by kennyandersen View Post
No doubt there is a limitation ti the rule of thumb, but for 1/3 the cost you can get 80-85% of the sound. If I had less budget constraints the SI 24 would certainly be on my hit list! Still it won't go very hi so if a person has some satellites it's like you would also need something to fill in the upper bass.
What do you mean they wont go very high? I guess it depends on if you are looking at them as subwoofers or midbass woofers??? I have tried them with a 120Hz XO with only the typical localization issues... I run them crossed in at 80Hz normally...
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post #10 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
I used to think multiple cheaper drivers would be the better option, but not anymore. I recently swapped my 12 SI 18s for dual RE XXX ported and I like the way the new setup sounds over the previous. Here are 4 different variations of my room. The new system just has a different sound than the other drivers.

I say get the 24 and add one later.
I'm always confused on here when people post WinISD graphs and go based off that response. If that were the case, most subs could be EQ'd to match all other subs if the sole sonic factor was flat response. When looking at those graphs there seems to be little difference between a $100 and a $700 driver. It's stupid to say, "if it's expensive then it's better" but I'm sure there is some truth to that adage. I get that right-sized box and right location will trump costs but there has to be some difference in sound with those variables being equal.

Don't get me wrong, I'm very familiar with the diminishing returns all the way to snake-oil in the audiophile world. But in general, there is a difference with cost and there is a sweet-spot. Usually on review sites the best reviewed items are almost always the cheapest... I don't think that's a coincidence most people are value centric. However, this is AVS, I'm not looking for lowest price, I'm looking for price to quality (with a bump on quality for a bit of extra cost)... If I'm going to put 100's of hours of research and 1000's of dollars into an HT system. I don't mind putting out an extra cash for a better sounding driver.

In this case someone went from 12 drivers to 2 and got better experience?!?!?

I'm a bit off topic but kind-of on topic: what driver do I select and how do I select a driver prior to building the box?

@MKtheater : any idea on how to quantify/measure/predict that different sound? It's seems so hard to do in DIY without a GTG to live demo.

I'm all over but your recommendation to the OP got me real curious.

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post #11 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquepattern View Post
What do you mean they wont go very high? I guess it depends on if you are looking at them as subwoofers or midbass woofers??? I have tried them with a 120Hz XO with only the typical localization issues... I run them crossed in at 80Hz normally...
At 80 it pribably the case that it would match well with an 8-10" driver IMO but if the satellites were 6s then it would seem like you might be pushing them to go good and loud down to 80 Hz. They can do it but in a HT system where people are looking for dynamics and spls I was just saying depending on the satellite there could be a potential issue. Personally im not a big fan of 10-12" drivers crossed over to a horn, but thats just me. i have a problem with localizatiin and lobing with larger drivers -- it just dont sound quite right to me. as long as the satellites are at dual 8s, I would think there wouldn't be any problem. a lot of subjectivity with loud speakers!
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post #12 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 11:48 AM
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Don't get me wrong I'm sure Nick's new 24 infinite baffle subs are great drivers and if you are going with infinite baffle by all means grab 2 and I'm positive you will be thrilled.BUT me personally "I'm not space limited" I would rather have 8-18's than the 2-24's. But that's just me. I have 4 of Nick's 18's and 2 of his original 24's. The 24's are AWSOME and I will never unplug them 😀 but like tjcinnamon is saying they "sound" different. And I run my 18's hotter than the 24's because of that. The 24's sound great but if you start turning them up they hurt your bones. I know it sounds weird but ask anybody who owns them. Those 24's move and shake so much stuff it becomes painfully to watch certain movies. Mad Max thunder road for example. I CANNOT watch more than half that movie with the 24's cranked up before I have a headache. For music you can CRANK the 24's and they never break a sweat the 18's seem to take a LOT more power in the higher Hertz stuff like 60-80. And that's just a subtle difference in two different subs that probably won't show up on a graph. When I heard mktheater save he preferred 2 of the xxx to 18 SI drivers I would not have believed it except it's from a guy I have read tons of stuff from a trust. So I can't comment on WHAT makes different subs sound different but they do "graphs be damned 😀"
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post #13 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 01:36 PM
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I showed the graphs to show what many drivers do compared to two uber drivers. I never maxed out any of the systems so how loud each one can play was not the goal. Every system could play over 125 dB at 5-10hz in my small room. My ears were the limiting factor. As for sound quality the xxx drivers just to seem to have more definition of the bass. I know bass is bass but it just feels different. The two XXX are ported and in room tuned to 6-7hz. The IB were the flattest from 5-80hz and that sound really good too. I tried porting the IB but those drivers were true IB drivers and did not like it. It has been mentioned at GTGs that the 24 feels like having 4 Si-18HTs. I always thought maybe 3 max but after having uber 18's, closer to 19, I believe them. Don't get me wrong, 8x18s kick some serious butt, Even my lower x-max Chase subs kicked butt in my room but there are two sub systems that had a different bass texture to it, the Danley DTS-10s, and now this XXX system. They are just more violent and great sounding at the same time. Again, my room has great gain and well treated, this is for my room and the opinion of the people that have experienced all the systems.
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post #14 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 07:47 PM
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I think the solution is simple.

If you can only afford 1 sub, then go for the biggest/beefiest driver you can afford. Such as the RF-19 or SI-24 or the IST-32.
If you can afford 2 subs, then go for the two biggest/beefiest drivers you can afford.
See the pattern yet?

You can see the distortion profiles of a number of various woofers on http://data-bass.com/systems
It becomes clear that a LMS-18 or RF-19 or SI-24 well out-does a B&W 8 or 10 at nearly any frequency or SPL level.
They extend lower while also having less distortion; and this is VERY audible.

If two subwoofers were EQ'ed to within a 1db of each other and kept below 5% distortion at all times, that's where things might get difficult to decide. The cheaper of the two having the better value-ratio of course!


In order to play a wide bandwidth like 120hz to DC, the driver with the highest xmax and overall power-handling has a MAJOR advantage over the other (that's assuming the sensitivity-rating, motor-force, moving-mass, box-size or any combination there-of, isn't throwing a curve ball at you...)

If you are 2-inches below xmech and just coasting along like a RE-18, the driver is gonna sound pretty clean.
But if you are a Dayton HO-12 trying to be the little engine that can't, well it's gonna sound awful when pushed to anywhere close to the same levels. (Or a SI HT-18 that only does 600w and a 1/4 the xmech.)

It's just like a car, they don't like running near the red-line vs having 100's of horse to spare.
Think: Smarty vs Lambo going up a hill. Pedal to the metal vs still in 1st gear.

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post #15 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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I would look at Max SLP, SPL, PE, excursion etc and everything else, not just that one graph you posted. I modeled them and 2 [email protected] each in 8cf will equal the SI24 in [email protected] if WINISD is accurate. In 12cf the 2 UM18 will have around 2-3dB more output down lower but then bump the SI 24 up to 26cf and it pretty much equals the 2 UM18s.

So it depends on what you want and how much space you have. Some will prefer 2 smaller enclosures spread out in the room and some might prefer the 24 and add another one later.

Why not go with 2 of the SI HT18 for $160 each they are pretty close in output to the UM18. So 2 of them should be close to 1 24".

"Why not go with 2 of the SI HT18 for $160 each they are pretty close in output to the UM18. So 2 of them should be close to 1 24". "

Interesting. Had not thought of that. Thanks.

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post #16 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Good responses everyone. I appreciate the input (no pun intended). Exactly what I was looking for, some opinions to help me decide. All good information to take into account.

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post #17 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bebb View Post
"Why not go with 2 of the SI HT18 for $160 each they are pretty close in output to the UM18. So 2 of them should be close to 1 24". "

Interesting. Had not thought of that. Thanks.
Look at the distortion and power plots on data-bass though:

HT-18 @ 118db: ~6% distortion to 28hz, then >30% distortion below 20hz and 200%@10hz. At a coil-melting 118volts! (that's 3500w assuming 4-ohm. It does that power, but only just!)

SI-24 @ 115db: ~2% distortion to 20hz, then >17% distortion below 10hz. At a cold 50volts!
SI-24 @ 118db: ~3% distortion to 20hz, then >30% distortion below 10hz. At a cold 60volts!
SI-24 @ 120db: ~4% distortion to 20hz, then >30% distortion below 15hz. At a cool 80volts!

Box-modelling software doesn't show that...

The HT-18 is holding on for dear life, ready to die at any second from BOTH thermals and bottoming...
Look at the xmech of the 24, it's not even close to bottoming out and the coil is at room-temp.
The 24 can do 80volts all day long... (1600w assuming 4-ohm.)

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post #18 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 08:52 PM
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I keep forgetting there is a 32! Talk about a conversation piece. How much is that thing again? The DB numbers are a great starting point but not all the drivers like that small sealed box. The LMS 5400 was made for it! My XXX 18 subs need much bigger boxes to breath. I bought my XXX from Ricci and was nervous based on DB numbers and Ricci told me not to worry, they had much more to give and using my wall which is an enormous box let?s them come alive. After all, they are the top 18 IB driver. Now I need a clone again to let them shine even more. That 5hz will come up another 3-6 dB!

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post #19 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Look at the distortion and power plots on data-bass though:

HT-18 @ 118db: ~6% distortion to 28hz, then >30% distortion below 20hz and 200%@10hz. At a coil-melting 118volts! (that's 3500w assuming 4-ohm. It does that power, but only just!)

SI-24 @ 115db: ~2% distortion to 20hz, then >17% distortion below 10hz. At a cold 50volts!
SI-24 @ 118db: ~3% distortion to 20hz, then >30% distortion below 10hz. At a cold 60volts!
SI-24 @ 120db: ~4% distortion to 20hz, then >30% distortion below 15hz. At a cool 80volts!

Box-modelling software doesn't show that...

The HT-18 is holding on for dear life, ready to die at any second from BOTH thermals and bottoming...
Look at the xmech of the 24, it's not even close to bottoming out and the coil is at room-temp.
The 24 can do 80volts all day long... (1600w assuming 4-ohm.)

Has Data bass measured the HT18 v2?
Link?
Or is that info from the v1 version?

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post #20 of 56 Old 10-16-2017, 10:07 PM
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Has Data bass measured the HT18 v2?
Link?
Or is that info from the v1 version?
They haven't measured the SI IB24 either so it doesn't seem accurate/fair it is to compare a $160 18" to a $1200+ dollar HS24"(it was $2000 when Databass tested it, the IB 24" @bebb asked about is $700). I would hope the $1000+ more expensive driver walks all over the cheaper driver.

Is the SI IB24 a newer driver or has it been out a while? I don't remember seeing any builds using it. I thought it was something they built in the past and had stopped making.

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post #21 of 56 Old 10-17-2017, 04:53 AM
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Don't get me wrong I'm sure Nick's new 24 infinite baffle subs are great drivers and if you are going with infinite baffle by all means grab 2 and I'm positive you will be thrilled.BUT me personally "I'm not space limited" I would rather have 8-18's than the 2-24's. But that's just me. I have 4 of Nick's 18's and 2 of his original 24's. The 24's are AWSOME and I will never unplug them 😀 but like tjcinnamon is saying they "sound" different. And I run my 18's hotter than the 24's because of that. The 24's sound great but if you start turning them up they hurt your bones. I know it sounds weird but ask anybody who owns them. Those 24's move and shake so much stuff it becomes painfully to watch certain movies. Mad Max thunder road for example. I CANNOT watch more than half that movie with the 24's cranked up before I have a headache. For music you can CRANK the 24's and they never break a sweat the 18's seem to take a LOT more power in the higher Hertz stuff like 60-80. And that's just a subtle difference in two different subs that probably won't show up on a graph. When I heard mktheater save he preferred 2 of the xxx to 18 SI drivers I would not have believed it except it's from a guy I have read tons of stuff from a trust. So I can't comment on WHAT makes different subs sound different but they do "graphs be damned 😀"
I know what you mean about the 24's shaking the crap outta everything... I have my pair in a 12x14 room on a suspended floor and at full tilt (reference level) my vision gets blurry as all hell! Funny thing is, they still are not even close to their max output... Having headroom to spare is a good thing! I never worry about accidentally bottoming them...
My favorite stuff is the sub 20Hz ULF... So low you cant actually hear it but wow can I ever feel it in my bones!

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post #22 of 56 Old 10-17-2017, 10:03 AM
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The 24's sound great but if you start turning them up they hurt your bones.
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post #23 of 56 Old 10-17-2017, 11:19 AM
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You guys with the 24's nailed the experience dead on. Good posts from everyone.
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post #24 of 56 Old 10-17-2017, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
They haven't measured the SI IB24 either so it doesn't seem accurate/fair it is to compare a $160 18" to a $1200+ dollar HS24"(it was $2000 when Databass tested it, the IB 24" @bebb asked about is $700). I would hope the $1000+ more expensive driver walks all over the cheaper driver.

Is the SI IB24 a newer driver or has it been out a while? I don't remember seeing any builds using it. I thought it was something they built in the past and had stopped making.
I think one version of the IB-24 was released around 2013.

Either way, those you don't want or are limited to stacking subs high and only have an area or two to place a single sub, this looks to do well.
If a single $800 24 and a pair of $600 UM-18s compare well, then it seems like there might be some value to this large driver.

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Front Stage : L/R - Statements by Jim Holtz
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Subwooferage : 6 UM18/4 HT18 Subwoofer Log
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post #25 of 56 Old 10-17-2017, 01:01 PM
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I think one version of the IB-24 was released around 2013.

Either way, those you don't want or are limited to stacking subs high and only have an area or two to place a single sub, this looks to do well.
If a single $800 24 and a pair of $600 UM-18s compare well, then it seems like there might be some value to this large driver.
It will be interesting to see if it ever gets tested or someone builds one to see how it actually compares to the more expensive SI 24". I have been eyeing the SI HS24 as my next subwoofer but if the cheaper one was even close I would consider it.

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post #26 of 56 Old 10-17-2017, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
It will be interesting to see if it ever gets tested or someone builds one to see how it actually compares to the more expensive SI 24". I have been eyeing the SI HS24 as my next subwoofer but if the cheaper one was even close I would consider it.
I know it took 3 UM-18s to surpass a single HS24, but that was the MK1. New MK2 is much beefier, with more motor, but also with some added cost.
I try not to look at the 24s too much, I don't have the space for them. At least that's what I keep telling myself lol
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post #27 of 56 Old 10-17-2017, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Look at the distortion and power plots on data-bass though:

HT-18 @ 118db: ~6% distortion to 28hz, then >30% distortion below 20hz and 200%@10hz. At a coil-melting 118volts! (that's 3500w assuming 4-ohm. It does that power, but only just!)

SI-24 @ 115db: ~2% distortion to 20hz, then >17% distortion below 10hz. At a cold 50volts!
SI-24 @ 118db: ~3% distortion to 20hz, then >30% distortion below 10hz. At a cold 60volts!
SI-24 @ 120db: ~4% distortion to 20hz, then >30% distortion below 15hz. At a cool 80volts!

Box-modelling software doesn't show that...

The HT-18 is holding on for dear life, ready to die at any second from BOTH thermals and bottoming...
Look at the xmech of the 24, it's not even close to bottoming out and the coil is at room-temp.
The 24 can do 80volts all day long... (1600w assuming 4-ohm.)
This is not even close to a fair comparison. The 24 was tested in a 16.5 cu ft box and the 18 was tested in a 4.2 cu ft box.

A fair comparison would be the 24 measured in a 16.5 cu ft box vs two 18s each in 8.2 cu ft boxes. OR the 24 in a 8.4 cu ft box vs two 18s each in 4.2 cu ft boxes.

For some reason the 24 sealed test box bucked the data-bass tradition of testing ALL drivers in small sealed boxes. The 24 has a MASSIVE advantage in this test due to the much larger than average test box that was used in this test.

If you tested fairly with normalized box sizes as I suggested the results would not be skewed so heavily in favor of the 24, in fact the differences would be pretty small. The 24 would still win but not by nearly as much. Data-bass testing has shown that two TC 5400s are roughly equivalent to the 24 as tested, even with the 24's huge and unfair box size.

The larger drivers do not break physics - if you test fairly with equivalent Sd and equivalent box size the smaller drivers can keep up just fine.
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post #28 of 56 Old 10-18-2017, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
This is not even close to a fair comparison. The 24 was tested in a 16.5 cu ft box and the 18 was tested in a 4.2 cu ft box.

A fair comparison would be the 24 measured in a 16.5 cu ft box vs two 18s each in 8.2 cu ft boxes. OR the 24 in a 8.4 cu ft box vs two 18s each in 4.2 cu ft boxes.

For some reason the 24 sealed test box bucked the data-bass tradition of testing ALL drivers in small sealed boxes. The 24 has a MASSIVE advantage in this test due to the much larger than average test box that was used in this test.

If you tested fairly with normalized box sizes as I suggested the results would not be skewed so heavily in favor of the 24, in fact the differences would be pretty small. The 24 would still win but not by nearly as much. Data-bass testing has shown that two TC 5400s are roughly equivalent to the 24 as tested, even with the 24's huge and unfair box size.

The larger drivers do not break physics - if you test fairly with equivalents Sd and equivalent box size the smaller drivers can keep up just fine.
I’m as big of a database honk as there is but this is one case where you have to step away from meters. I’ve had a few heated debates even with Nick about how many HT18’s equal a HS24. Even though I was intrigued by the 24. Two years back I had all the same arguments you present now. I fought this to the death. But I read owners thread and there was a commonality to all of them. Then you have DSS subs crushing it at various shows. I was resistive to downsizing wrt the number of subs used. I was the 12 subs and 16kw for me or die guy. My last system prior to what I have now was 8x18’s in 4x9.2cuft cabs powered by a 12K pushing 42 liters of displacement in a 1400cuft room. [email protected] and [email protected] After two years of pounding away not a peep from neighbors. Then I drop a single 24 with 10cuft of cab, 16+ liters of displacement and 4kw which I’ve not come close to using and there goes the neighborhood. Everyone that has experienced both is just shakes their head at the 24 and says it’s insane. You can’t explain it you must experience it. Again I was a huge skeptic but after hearing dozens and dozens of comments I had to know. I’m glad I did. This thing is a different beast.
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post #29 of 56 Old 10-18-2017, 06:53 AM
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Everyone that has experienced both is just shakes their head at the 24 and says it’s insane. You can’t explain it you must experience it.
I have had the same experience, most people just shake their heads with looks of bewilderment on their faces...
I sit about 6' away from my drivers, its like they reach out across the room and grab a hold of you and try to violently shake you to little pieces... Its a truly epic feeling!
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post #30 of 56 Old 10-18-2017, 09:56 AM
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I have had the same experience, most people just shake their heads with looks of bewilderment on their faces...
I sit about 6' away from my drivers, its like they reach out across the room and grab a hold of you and try to violently shake you to little pieces... Its a truly epic feeling!
I have a pretty small room like you do, and my 24's are still in their shipping crates with only 1100 watts each going to them, and it's still shocking what they are capable of. Not only do they get stupid loud, but it's amazing how much energy they transfer into you. And they do music really well too! Before these I had a pair of JBL W15GTi's that did a great job, but there is simply no comparison.
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