Converting Monoprice Passive 15" 2-Way PA Speakers to Active - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 74 Old 10-29-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
But it could be a good option for some people.
Me!
So, if it's not too much trouble,...

Michael
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post #62 of 74 Old 10-29-2017, 06:38 PM
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What a total waste of time...but I guess someone had to find something to do, I prefer to build my own or purchase a pair of higher quality.
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post #63 of 74 Old 10-29-2017, 07:52 PM
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I've built my own. Didn't enjoy it one bit, and don't use them.
"Higher quality" is relative. I think one would have to spend substantially more than the cost of these for a noticeable improvement.
As a hobby, I guess it qualifies as "something to do." I enjoy using REW and HCFR, and have done a pretty good job with the open floorplan, vaulted ceiling with skylights, minimal investment that I've had with which to work.
I'm not asking you to waste your time. I was just looking for something else interesting to do with mine.
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post #64 of 74 Old 10-30-2017, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William Colon View Post
What a total waste of time
Sorry, but did you mean Mark's experiment with active crossovers (which he clearly discusses as an experiment and does not suggest that everyone do this) or my desire to modify the existing passive crossovers (which might, indeed, be of interest to those of us who own these speakers)?
Michael

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post #65 of 74 Old 10-30-2017, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Mtg90 did that for the berry thingys.
Found it:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-spe...l#post36330378
In the case of the Monos, we're looking to drop it from 3300 to 1000; might be too much of a change to be "simple."
Michael

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post #66 of 74 Old 10-30-2017, 12:50 PM
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I'm getting veklempt. Talk amongst yourselves. Here's a topic: "These 'Active' monoprice PA Speakers are neither active nor speakers". Discuss.
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post #67 of 74 Old 10-30-2017, 01:22 PM
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Mark's setup is active. The speakers are great bang-for-the-buck (passive) home theater speakers.
Not much to discuss.
Unt vy are you so emotional?
Michael

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post #68 of 74 Old 11-04-2017, 12:57 PM
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Sub Crossover

@imagic Is there a reason you used the Denon AVR to cross the low end at 80hz as opposed to using the DDRC-88A?

@tuxedocivic Is there any benefit to the XO adjustability of the DDRC-88A (w/ Dirac Live) compared to passive XOs? I'd assume digital tuning of the XOs would be easier than buying and soldering up passive components until you find the right combo, albeit more expensive.
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post #69 of 74 Old 11-04-2017, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rdh24 View Post
buying and soldering up passive components until you find the right combo.
There is actually a science behind it. A complicated science and art.
Which is why I was hoping modifying/changing the existing xo would be cost-effective. Apparently, it isn't.
Michael

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post #70 of 74 Old 11-04-2017, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdh24 View Post

@tuxedocivic Is there any benefit to the XO adjustability of the DDRC-88A (w/ Dirac Live) compared to passive XOs? I'd assume digital tuning of the XOs would be easier than buying and soldering up passive components until you find the right combo, albeit more expensive.
There is a very small benefit that if you're more techy and prefer to change the XO on the computer then it's a benefit. To be honest, using alligator clips I can make a change to my passive XO much faster than hooking up my minidsp, launching the software, syncing, and changing the settings.

I hear this logic all the time. Active is easier cause you can make many changes quickly. Well first of all, you shouldn't make XO changes every few seconds. You should make them every few days during the design process. Second, this logic should never be a reason to choose active over passive. The choice should be made based on design goals. If the design goal is to get razor sharp frequency response with steeps slopes (a perfectly good goal) then active is probably a better choice provided a different goal is portability or simplicity. When people choose to go active because they can click buttons I automatically know they've missed the point. Thankfully, most of the time they have more reasons than the ease of button clicking.

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post #71 of 74 Old 11-06-2017, 10:06 AM
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This is a post in the original thread from 18Hurts (post 9):
"The 3.3 KHz crossover is rather funky--but you have a quick and dirty way to drop it down to approx. 1.6 to 1.7 KHz. Remove both XO boards, take the coils and caps off the second one and put the caps in parallel and the coils in series to drop it around an octave."
I wouldn't sacrifice one xo for another, but I could certainly spring for parts.
But, again, I don't know what I'm talking about.
Thoughts?
Michael

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post #72 of 74 Old 11-06-2017, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
This is a post in the original thread from 18Hurts (post 9):
"The 3.3 KHz crossover is rather funky--but you have a quick and dirty way to drop it down to approx. 1.6 to 1.7 KHz. Remove both XO boards, take the coils and caps off the second one and put the caps in parallel and the coils in series to drop it around an octave."
I wouldn't sacrifice one xo for another, but I could certainly spring for parts.
But, again, I don't know what I'm talking about.
Thoughts?
Michael
Sounds like using a simple rule of bigger parts equals lower XO but could also cause a giant null or an erratic response. If you wanna try it sure just don't expect good results and I suggest trying to measure it.

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post #73 of 74 Old 11-06-2017, 05:08 PM
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I'm happy with the way it measures now. I will leave well enough alone.
Many thanks.
Michael

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post #74 of 74 Old 12-11-2017, 07:09 AM
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