Ceiling mount Volts for Atmos - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 35 Old 10-24-2017, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Ceiling mount Volts for Atmos

I am in the process of building my sealed boxes for my Volt 6's (qty 4) and wondering how others have recessed their boxes in the ceiling and finished off their baffle and grills. My finishing framer thinks its best to build the box 3/8" to 1/2" less around the perimeter so the baffle acts as a trim piece between the sheetrock and the box. Hope that makes sense.

I like the idea but just curious to see what others have done.

Thanks......

P.S. Insulation and sheetrock will start very soon.
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post #2 of 35 Old 10-24-2017, 03:45 PM
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I don't know how big of a difference it would make, but I would calculate how much volume making the perimeter smaller would take off of the box, and then make the box a little deeper to offset that change and keep the box the same overall internal volume. I don't know the actual dimensions you are working with here, so lets just use the example of a box with internal dimensions of 8" x 8" x 5" deep. That box has an internal volume of 320 cubic inches. If you made it 7.5" x 7.5" you would need to make it 5.7 inches deep to keep the same internal volume. I'll let the experts chime in, but that is how I would go about it.
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post #3 of 35 Old 10-24-2017, 04:34 PM
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Because my volt 6 ported boxes were going into drop ceiling, I did exactly that. I built my box 1/4? smaller then the baffle all around, and the nice rounded over baffle finished the rough edge by hiding it.
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post #4 of 35 Old 10-24-2017, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
Because my volt 6 ported boxes were going into drop ceiling, I did exactly that. I built my box 1/4? smaller then the baffle all around, and the nice rounded over baffle finished the rough edge by hiding it.

cool.......did you feel the need to reinforce the holes where the speaker mounts to the baffle with more MDF so there's more meat for the screw to grab?
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post #5 of 35 Old 10-24-2017, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
Because my volt 6 ported boxes were going into drop ceiling, I did exactly that. I built my box 1/4? smaller then the baffle all around, and the nice rounded over baffle finished the rough edge by hiding it.

cool.......did you feel the need to reinforce the holes where the speaker mounts to the baffle with more MDF so there's more meat for the screw to grab?
Not at all. They will grab.
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post #6 of 35 Old 10-24-2017, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTFanDan View Post
I don't know how big of a difference it would make, but I would calculate how much volume making the perimeter smaller would take off of the box, and then make the box a little deeper to offset that change and keep the box the same overall internal volume. I don't know the actual dimensions you are working with here, so lets just use the example of a box with internal dimensions of 8" x 8" x 5" deep. That box has an internal volume of 320 cubic inches. If you made it 7.5" x 7.5" you would need to make it 5.7 inches deep to keep the same internal volume. I'll let the experts chime in, but that is how I would go about it.
But how exactly would you mount the speaker to the ceiling? Screw through the baffle edges up into the ceiling?
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post #7 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 03:42 AM
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Are you married to them being in a box?

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post #8 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTFanDan View Post
I don't know how big of a difference it would make, but I would calculate how much volume making the perimeter smaller would take off of the box, and then make the box a little deeper to offset that change and keep the box the same overall internal volume. I don't know the actual dimensions you are working with here, so lets just use the example of a box with internal dimensions of 8" x 8" x 5" deep. That box has an internal volume of 320 cubic inches. If you made it 7.5" x 7.5" you would need to make it 5.7 inches deep to keep the same internal volume. I'll let the experts chime in, but that is how I would go about it.
But how exactly would you mount the speaker to the ceiling? Screw through the baffle edges up into the ceiling?
I screwed through the woofer hole, through the back of the box into a pre installed 2x4 set at the right depth. Then installed the driver.
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post #9 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 03:59 AM
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Are you married to them being in a box?

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In my opinion, I wanted the box to be ported for more output.
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post #10 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 08:49 AM
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I am working on a way to try to mount my Atmos speakers (ported Volt-6) so that I can have a grille flush with the ceiling. This probably means the baffle will be about 1/8" shallow of the drywall. It also probably means I'll need to build an external box to frame out the drywall edges.

My other great idea is to mount the speaker fully (and independently) above the drywall, with a separate, unattached grille flush to the ceiling. The benefit of this is that I could slightly angle my speakers on 2 planes... "back" toward the MLP and "in" from the sides... the big downside is that it pretty much requires a large backer box that would both frame out the drywall edges and seal the hole.

I've doodled around a bit but haven't come up with anything great yet.
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post #11 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 12:33 PM
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IMO it just depends on how you want it to look and how close you want to adhere to the dolby installation spec. I'd have to get it out an look at it again to confirm, but I think that the speakers are supposed to be angled toward the MLP, rather than flush or recessed.

So, I'm also going to be doing an install later in the year. What I was thinking was to build the boxes and attach it to a couple of 2x6 intercostals running between the ceiling joists with the box protruding through the ceiling at the appropriate angle and the framing the box out with somethng like a 1/2x3/4 round-over between the box and the outer ceiling. In the end the box will be approximately flush on one end and 2 1/2-3" hanging down on the other.

One other option might be to oversize the front baffle if you want to keep it flush. Still I'm not comfortable with just the sheetrock supporting it so I would still run the 2x6 s accross to pick up the ceiling joists.

I'll look up the diagram again.
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post #12 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 12:54 PM
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https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/do...-4-setups.html

I guess I misremembered! There are angles but that is with respect to where they are installed. The diagrams appear to show them flush mounted.

So I will run the intercostals as before with the box flush with the ceiling and then mount a grill that is just oversized enough to cover any gap.

Everything else is all lined up at specific angles so I would have expected the ceiling speakers to be the same. Maybe it's a defuse thing...

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post #13 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deomayama View Post
Are you married to them being in a box?

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Not really.....
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post #14 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 04:34 PM
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Not really.....
You could do what I did...
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2909216

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post #15 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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You could do what I did...
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2909216

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I like what you did.
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post #16 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 04:51 PM
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I like what you did.
Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

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post #17 of 35 Old 10-25-2017, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
I screwed through the woofer hole, through the back of the box into a pre installed 2x4 set at the right depth. Then installed the driver.
Gotcha. Thanks.
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post #18 of 35 Old 10-26-2017, 08:21 PM
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@Augmont I’m having the same dilemma as yours and all the solutions seems to be complicated for me to handle. In your original post, what do you mean by “baffle acts as a trim piece between the sheetrock and the box”? I hope you don’t mind elaborating.

Thanks


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post #19 of 35 Old 10-27-2017, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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@Augmont I’m having the same dilemma as yours and all the solutions seems to be complicated for me to handle. In your original post, what do you mean by “baffle acts as a trim piece between the sheetrock and the box”? I hope you don’t mind elaborating.

Thanks


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Not at all....here is a pic. I am hanging the box 5/8" (thickness of the sheetrock) lower than the ceiling joist so when I install sheetrock the box is flush the ceiling.

Note that I'm doing new construction. deomayama did a retrofit in an existing ceiling that was very cool.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post54574810
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post #20 of 35 Old 10-27-2017, 08:29 AM
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Here's a quick sketchup of what I was thinking. Basically, I would have to build a backer box to just fit inside the joist cavity (12" oc, so I only have about 10 inches of width) to seal off the leaks. I'm not doing clips or channel, and will be doing a DD + GG directly to the bottom of the joists, to I'm only planning against sound leaks, not vibration. The bottom of the box would be flush to the edge of the drywall surface, so I can get clean corners.

Inside that backer box, I would have a little bit of room to angle the speaker slightly on two planes, both "front-back" and "side-side" which would let me point them a little bit toward the MLP.

I would probably only do the front Atmos pair this way, and either flush mount or just a little "side-side" tilt on the rear pair.

The grille would either have to be attached to the box edges, meaning it would protrude into the room (1/4" if I'm using 1/4" MDF) or I could install a lip inside the box to flush mount it. We'll see how things evolve. I hope that all makes sense.
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post #21 of 35 Old 10-27-2017, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
Here's a quick sketchup of what I was thinking. Basically, I would have to build a backer box to just fit inside the joist cavity (12" oc, so I only have about 10 inches of width) to seal off the leaks. I'm not doing clips or channel, and will be doing a DD + GG directly to the bottom of the joists, to I'm only planning against sound leaks, not vibration. The bottom of the box would be flush to the edge of the drywall surface, so I can get clean corners.

Inside that backer box, I would have a little bit of room to angle the speaker slightly on two planes, both "front-back" and "side-side" which would let me point them a little bit toward the MLP.

I would probably only do the front Atmos pair this way, and either flush mount or just a little "side-side" tilt on the rear pair.

The grille would either have to be attached to the box edges, meaning it would protrude into the room (1/4" if I'm using 1/4" MDF) or I could install a lip inside the box to flush mount it. We'll see how things evolve. I hope that all makes sense.
I've thought about doing something similar. I've also considered making the speaker cabinet with the baffle angled so I don't have to worry about fitting a tilted cabinet into a small space in the ceiling.

Have about doing what you're thinking or my suggestion and then shove the entire cabinet up into the ceiling so the side that would have protruded is now flush with the ceiling. The other side is above the ceiling. Make the opening a little larger so as to not interfere with sound waves and cover the entire thing with a grill. Angled and flush but with a slightly larger grill. I think this is my path and I'll find out soon if it works.
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post #22 of 35 Old 10-27-2017, 08:58 AM
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On second thought, it looks like that's what you're showing in your pics. It's hard to tell because the angles are wonky.
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post #23 of 35 Old 10-27-2017, 09:03 AM
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Yeah, sorry. I tried to make it easy to see with the multiple views, but the angles are tough to visualize. That's basically it, a speaker box within a box, angled in and back, with a grille to hide the whole thing.

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post #24 of 35 Old 10-27-2017, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augmont View Post
Not at all....here is a pic. I am hanging the box 5/8" (thickness of the sheetrock) lower than the ceiling joist so when I install sheetrock the box is flush the ceiling.

Note that I'm doing new construction. deomayama did a retrofit in an existing ceiling that was very cool.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post54574810


Thank you @Augmont for your response.
@frankpc3 posted an interesting concept in this post:

Flush mount Volt-6 in ceiling for Atmos (post #33 )

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...2&share_type=t


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post #25 of 35 Old 10-30-2017, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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XLR Cables....future proof

I want to future proof my HT setup before sheet rock goes up and I want to run XLR cables for future Marty subs and MBM's. I'm thinking four (4) runs.

Wondering if this cable from monoprice is good.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5980
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post #26 of 35 Old 10-30-2017, 10:18 AM
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I want to future proof my HT setup before sheet rock goes up and I want to run XLR cables for future Marty subs and MBM's. I'm thinking four (4) runs.

Wondering if this cable from monoprice is good.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5980

Why not just run Speaker wire instead and keep all of the amps in 1 location.
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post #27 of 35 Old 10-30-2017, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Why not just run Speaker wire instead and keep all of the amps in 1 location.

Yes - I am keeping all my gear in a single location.

Perhaps the better question is what type of wire do most use with using an Inuke Behringer amp to power Martysubs? In the past I've only purchased subs with plate amps but I think the bag for the buck in the future will be some comb of DIY subs and MBM's.

Last edited by Augmont; 10-30-2017 at 10:43 AM.
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post #28 of 35 Old 02-11-2019, 11:26 AM
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I am trying to figure out how to mount my Volt 10s to the sheetrock ceiling but I want to SURFACE MOUNT them. Has anybody done this?
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post #29 of 35 Old 02-11-2019, 12:30 PM
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I am trying to figure out how to mount my Volt 10s to the sheetrock ceiling but I want to SURFACE MOUNT them. Has anybody done this?
Surface mount the Volt enclosures or the drivers themselves?

If mounting the enclosure I would try to find a stud behind the sheetrock and run a screw or two through the back of the enclosure into the stud. Then install the driver into the enclosure. You might need and extra pair of hands for that part.
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post #30 of 35 Old 02-11-2019, 12:53 PM
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Surface mount the Volt enclosures or the drivers themselves?

If mounting the enclosure I would try to find a stud behind the sheetrock and run a screw or two through the back of the enclosure into the stud. Then install the driver into the enclosure. You might need and extra pair of hands for that part.
Yes I am wanting to mount the enclosures onto the sheetrock ceiling. I think your recommendation is the way I'll go.
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