Lets build a ported 21! - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 104 Old 10-28-2017, 10:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Lets build a ported 21!

As some of you know my buddy Chris got a 21" sub at @eng-399 's get together last weekend. He currently has two systems in his house. One is using a SVS PB12-NSD, and the other has two 10" Polk Audio subs. He was planning on building a UM18-22 to replace the SVS but of course he has been waiting for months like everyone else. I had brought it to the G2G to get a taste of crazy home theater bass, and to hear some DIY speakers. Like I said he was already on board with going DIY, but heating Mikes set up and the various DIY speakers really set the hook.

Then of course he won the 21" sub from Matt, and we were off!


Doing his Steve Meade impression


Thing took up like my whole trunk!


Next to that puny SVS


So after talking with @mtg90 he got us all the specs and also suggested some boxes for this beast. Here is the model for what we ended up with.


The box is going to be 30" wide, 36" tall, and 30" deep which puts it at about 16.2 cubic feet. We are going to run three 4" precision port kits, which puts the tune about 17.77 Hz.

So because I am a nerd, I drew up the box real fast


Once we had the box design locked in, Chris ordered up everything else needed. Power is coming from an iNuke 3000DSP, got the ports, and some SVS sound path feet since this sits on a wood floor.


Now its time to start the fun part. First up is getting material.


Barely fit!


Time to start cutting!


Here is the front panel, just a little guy


We did some routering to the edges so that there is a lot of surface area for the glue, and then Chris got them dry fit.






We were pressed for time today, so that was all we were able to get done. It didn't help that I made a couple mistakes I am going to try and get over there tomorrow (well later today at this point) and get some pieces glued together. We are pretty excited to get this thing up and running. It will be the craziest sub that either of us has ever had or built. Should be pretty bad ass!! Also the SVS is going downstairs where the Polks are, and the Polks are going to the garage for when we are working on the cars Stay tuned for more!


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post #2 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 12:27 AM
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Subscribed to this build that sub was a beast! What’s the plan for paint on it? Having the inuke 3k bridged to it should give it a lot of power. Congrats to Chris again for winning that sub.
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post #3 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 01:03 AM
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Nice! Not bad for a free 21”!


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post #4 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 05:23 AM
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Subscribed! Mustang pic cuz Sean's a mustang guy!

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post #5 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 06:21 AM
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Looking forward to this! I’m impressed how fast you got going in the project! Make sure you brace the hell out of that thing it’s gunna need it.
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post #6 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 07:07 AM
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Make sure it will fit through the doorway. A lot of doors are only 30 inches wide.

Nice start anyhow!
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post #7 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!

He is not 100% sure on finish, but I think right now he is leaning toward raptor liner. The finish looks nice, and being a spray it should go on pretty even without too much hassle.

Right! Some guys have all the luck!

NOT a mustang guy

We started talking about a plan on the way home, and I think I messaged Matt that night to get the specs so we could start to model a box. I also asked him for a suggestion on the box given the space we had to work with. We had a bit of back and forth over some things like the ports (Chris wanted round) and we also tried to tweak Matts suggestion a bit to see how it looked. I think we locked in the final design by Tuesday and everything got ordered. The rest of the week we were just talking about how awesome its gonna be, and how we cant wait to get started. If he lived closer, we would have started it Tuesday or Wednesday. Don't worry, copious bracing is part of the plan. Not positive which method we are going to use, but I have some ideas.

We measured, it will clear the front door It might make it though the garage door if we take the door off the hinges, but the front door is wider so we will go around.


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post #8 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 08:07 AM
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Thank you every one. I am pretty pumped to hear how loud and low this Sub will go!


Chris
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post #9 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 08:23 AM
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Love it guys and damn that workspace is big and clean and awesome. good luck
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post #10 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 08:32 AM
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Love it guys and damn that workspace is big and clean and awesome. good luck
Just a 3 car garage. Should say it was clean, Router got MDF Dust Everywhere!

Thanks, Chris
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post #11 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 11:28 AM
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Subbed. Congrats on winning that driver I wanted so bad. Glad to see a box getting built so soon. It will kill it in that box.
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post #12 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 01:25 PM
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post #13 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 05:15 PM
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I do not see any wood for glue and screw of the seams. Also what about the other 5 flat surfaces. Aren't you doing any off center glued/screwed side wall stiffening braces? I built an 8 cubic ft (internal volume) enclosure for an 18 inch JBL that does not go all that low (port tuned to 27 cpos) and have 2x2 hardwood (white popular) on all face seams as well as length wise, off center face stiffeners and front to back braces. I always glue and screw the seams in place to allow sitting of the perpendicular panels against those glued/screwed seam braces to screw them into the hardwood also. Also I used 1 1/8 inch thick counter top particle board.

Bill Shenefelt; JBL 4343 monitors on Audire and Crown 1502 amps. 2 SVS 16 SB subs. 8 cu ft ported enclosure with 18 inch jbl driver on a Crown 1002 XTi amp (below 30 cps cut via eq), 4 Klipsch in-ceiling atmos. Anthem MRX 1120 receiver. Accuphase C-200, PS P600, Sony 4k projector and tv, SOTA Saphire turntable and Oppo 205 disk player .
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post #14 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I was able to get over by Chris for a little bit today and help glue up some of the box. Nothing too exciting, but better than no progress at all





With these two glued up and square, Chris should be able to get the other side and the bottom attached this week. Next weekend we will get the holes in the baffles, and start working out the bracing. We are aiming to have it finished and start getting it adjusted on the 11th.


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post #15 of 104 Old 10-29-2017, 11:31 PM
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This is making me want to build a bunch of B&C 21's.
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post #16 of 104 Old 10-30-2017, 06:04 AM
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Good looking driver. What make/model is that?
It was a prototype for DIYsoundgroup that was raffled off. There is no label/writing on the sub anywhere. We have heard a couple different manufactures. We believe it is Pierce audio.

Thanks, Chris
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post #17 of 104 Old 10-30-2017, 07:03 AM
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Make sure it will fit through the doorway. A lot of doors are only 30 inches wide.
Yup, that was gonna be my first suggestion. Second is mind the weight with respect to moving it to its final space. Third; I love the Aeroports in my pair of 4 cube 12" DIYSG enclosures, but I ended up using copious amounts of Dynamat on the outside of each of the four ports. Reason being was they were extremely long and resonated on certain frequencies which was not cool at all.

This one is gonna be fun to watch as it progresses.
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post #18 of 104 Old 10-30-2017, 07:36 AM
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Yup, that was gonna be my first suggestion. Second is mind the weight with respect to moving it to its final space. Third; I love the Aeroports in my pair of 4 cube 12" DIYSG enclosures, but I ended up using copious amounts of Dynamat on the outside of each of the four ports. Reason being was they were extremely long and resonated on certain frequencies which was not cool at all.

This one is gonna be fun to watch as it progresses.
I expect this to be 250-300 lbs assembled. Worst case, i can install the driver after box is in place. Also, once we get in the front door, we can put it on a dolly, as all the floors are hardwood.

We plan to catch the ports with a brace, and glue them in place. Good call on the Dynamat!

Thanks, Chris
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post #19 of 104 Old 10-30-2017, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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JC, we heard you like lifting heavy things so we were building this for you to move

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post #20 of 104 Old 10-30-2017, 08:17 AM
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I'll provide my heavy-lifting services for a nominal charge. Usually micro-brews and some listening time will be all it takes.

Serious note - if this monster is going down steps I'd plan on having a couple 2x6s or 2x8s to put down and slide the enclosure down carefully. Of course you'd have someone on the gravity end making sure it is a controlled descent.

May I also suggest keeping the ports removable if you ever decide to change the tuning; since you are going with Precisionports instead of a slot port you might as well take advantage of the ability to change things around a bit. Plus as you know it will be easy to plug ports at at time.

I also find it hilarious how it makes 4" ports look tiny next to that monster driver!
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post #21 of 104 Old 10-30-2017, 08:34 AM
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I'll provide my heavy-lifting services for a nominal charge. Usually micro-brews and some listening time will be all it takes.

Serious note - if this monster is going down steps I'd plan on having a couple 2x6s or 2x8s to put down and slide the enclosure down carefully. Of course you'd have someone on the gravity end making sure it is a controlled descent.

May I also suggest keeping the ports removable if you ever decide to change the tuning; since you are going with Precisionports instead of a slot port you might as well take advantage of the ability to change things around a bit. Plus as you know it will be easy to plug ports at at time.

I also find it hilarious how it makes 4" ports look tiny next to that monster driver!
Sub just has to go up a couple concrete stairs to get in front door. Then it is staying on the main level. I will discuss with Sean about making ports easily removable. Holes in brace then just need to be big enough for the back piece to slide through. Possibly some weather stripping so its a tight fit? or dynamat as you said. Sean had mentioned some people just duct tape the ports together. I was planning on pvc glue, but maybe we will duct tape until we hear it all. and do a final assembly after its all setup and we are sure we are happy with it.

Its crazy how small everything looks next to a 21" driver.


Thanks,
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post #22 of 104 Old 10-30-2017, 07:37 PM
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Just got home after a long day of work then teaching. Got one more panel glued in place! Also the ass end of my CTSV, trying to make this thread great again after that mustang picture.

Thanks, Chris
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post #23 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 05:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Just because I cant get Chris's attachments to open on two different computers, here are the pics I have.





Chris should get the bottom glued up this week sometime, and then this weekend we can tackle all the bracing and the front baffles. Still not sure how we are going to do the bracing, but I have some ideas floating around. Also need to decided how to cut the hole for the sub since its bigger than my circle jig can handle The current plan is to be setting everything up on the 11th since he will have an empty house.


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post #24 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 06:02 AM
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I see how that’s a problem with the hole being bigger than your jasper jig. You guys can make some type of mdf sliding jig to go on your router or take duck tape fold it in half stick a pin on one side measure the size of the hole divide it in half and stick a pencil through that side to trace out the hole? That’s if your not going to recess the driver with another baffle.
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post #25 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I see how that’s a problem with the hole being bigger than your jasper jig. You guys can make some type of mdf sliding jig to go on your router or take duck tape fold it in half stick a pin on one side measure the size of the hole divide it in half and stick a pencil through that side to trace out the hole? That’s if your not going to recess the driver with another baffle.
Homemade jig is the likely winner currently, unless I buy the monster jasper jig We are planning on recessing the driver and the ports in the front baffle. I have some ideas to get the holes done, and for recessing, possibly without buying or making a jig. You will have to wait till this weekend to see how it all goes!


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post #26 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 06:18 AM
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For no more holes than you have to cut, this would work perfect...If you have a Harbor Freight locally you can get their brand of Dremel cheaper...

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Circle.../dp/B01G9NF3ZS

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post #27 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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For no more holes than you have to cut, this would work perfect...If you have a Harbor Freight locally you can get their brand of Dremel cheaper...

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Circle.../dp/B01G9NF3ZS
That goes to 12", we need 21.5" The circle jig I have will do 18-15/16 which is ALMOST enough for the mounting hole of the driver. Like I said, I have some ideas in mind.


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post #28 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 07:14 AM
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that was for the ports...for the driver a base plate jig on the router is the way to go...smooth as butter

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post #29 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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that was for the ports...for the driver a base plate jig on the router is the way to go...smooth as butter
Ah, that makes a bit more sense! I already have the Jasper jig that will handle the ports, and any normal sized driver. This is just outside its range though, so either buy the next size up which is massive, or make something for this.

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post #30 of 104 Old 10-31-2017, 03:45 PM
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Ah, that makes a bit more sense! I already have the Jasper jig that will handle the ports, and any normal sized driver. This is just outside its range though, so either buy the next size up which is massive, or make something for this.

Sean
It is easy to make one, here are some pics similar to how made mine. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post54965400

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