DIY Sound Group HTM-12 Build (UK BUILD) - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 181 Old 11-18-2017, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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DIY Sound Group HTM-12 Build (UK BUILD)

Hello all folks across the pond , I have decided to go down the DIY route myself.

Big thanks to the other HTM-12 owners on this forum who have inspired me and posted very informative and helpful build threads!

This will be a slow progress build and will take time no doubt, however I will definitely be posting pics and updating this thread as and when things are moving along.

I have placed my order in just now for 3 x kits of the HTM-12 and the pre assembled crossovers which has cost me $970 or £750 and will get my MDF for the cabinet build cut tomorrow or in a couple of days when I am off work... I've also just ordered some more clamps from Amazon so will await for all to arrive before I commence.

Will hopefully update with some pics during next week
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post #2 of 181 Old 11-18-2017, 12:53 PM
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Congrats! Im looking forward to following your build.
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post #3 of 181 Old 11-18-2017, 01:01 PM
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congrats from me too . .

which glue will you be using and will you be using a brad nailer?

using mdf you'll want to stabilize the panels for straight and square while the glue sets up

waiting to see the pics . .
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post #4 of 181 Old 11-19-2017, 05:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboAVS View Post
Congrats! Im looking forward to following your build.
Thanks @RoboAVS , absolutely loved your build thread and your views on the speakers
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post #5 of 181 Old 11-19-2017, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
congrats from me too . .

which glue will you be using and will you be using a brad nailer?

using mdf you'll want to stabilize the panels for straight and square while the glue sets up

waiting to see the pics . .
Thank you @asarose247 I don't think I will be using brad nails as I don't have a brad nail gun.. I was looking to get the Ryobi Air Strike for this project but others have advised just to glue and clamp as the glue I am using "Gorilla" is more than sufficient for the task. I did a test with the glue on some scrap mdf and it was super strong. When I tried to seperate the two pieces I couldn't I forced it and it ripped the mdf off but the joint was still intact so I think the glue will be the way to go for me with plenty of clamps and a band clamp too.
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post #6 of 181 Old 11-19-2017, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkohman View Post
Thank you @asarose247 I don't think I will be using brad nails as I don't have a brad nail gun.. I was looking to get the Ryobi Air Strike for this project but others have advised just to glue and clamp as the glue I am using "Gorilla" is more than sufficient for the task. I did a test with the glue on some scrap mdf and it was super strong. When I tried to seperate the two pieces I couldn't I forced it and it ripped the mdf off but the joint was still intact so I think the glue will be the way to go for me with plenty of clamps and a band clamp too.
I used glue and clamps on one build.Works fine doing it that way.

On another,I bought a brad nailer(already had a compressor)
So much easier!
I don't know why I waited so many years, and tried to do so many projects, without one.
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post #7 of 181 Old 11-19-2017, 09:59 AM
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i have a few sets of these: http://www.rockler.com/universal-fen...lamp-it-square

that can keep you on spec while the glue sets up

a few (4) ratchet clamps can be quicker for set up with the just the plastic parts

and Rockler does sell a set like this: http://www.rockler.com/clamp-it-asse...quare-6-pc-kit

but mainly you can get by (i.e. > WANT!) with just the corner clmaps and get cheaper just a good clamps off amazon or whatever your resources are

since the HTM12's aren't so large I suggest 2 of those corner clamps

as the glue can slide you out of spec too, think of using stops blocks, etc. so things stay put . .
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post #8 of 181 Old 11-19-2017, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
i have a few sets of these: http://www.rockler.com/universal-fen...lamp-it-square

that can keep you on spec while the glue sets up

a few (4) ratchet clamps can be quicker for set up with the just the plastic parts

and Rockler does sell a set like this: http://www.rockler.com/clamp-it-asse...quare-6-pc-kit

but mainly you can get by (i.e. > WANT!) with just the corner clmaps and get cheaper just a good clamps off amazon or whatever your resources are

since the HTM12's aren't so large I suggest 2 of those corner clamps

as the glue can slide you out of spec too, think of using stops blocks, etc. so things stay put . .
Cheers for that. I actually bought a band clamp and some 24" quick release clamps along with a couple of 12" quick grip clamps and 4 x corner clamps.. I think that should be enough for the build but will buy more if necessary.

I think the method I will use is build the top, bottom and sides first, glue them all together, then glue that hollow frame to the back panel. then glue in the horizontal and vertical braces. I am going to get my MDF cuts this week.
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post #9 of 181 Old 11-19-2017, 02:36 PM
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some, but not all , would start with sides 1 or 2 at a time being glued to the back

that way you have a better chance of keeping the sides all squared up 'cause the back is "square'

i wouldn't want to have to challenge the glues joints by maybe needing to handle squaring the assembled sides all at once to the back piece

it seems that controlling 4 sides at once wrt to keeping them all in the right alignment / place is more challenge than, for me and IMHO, than I would care to opt for

from my lessons in working with BFM plans, get each board right , 1 at a time and be sure to hit the mark . .

then get the next 1 right . . . .

and so on
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DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
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post #10 of 181 Old 11-21-2017, 07:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick update.. I've just been to my local B&Q and the guy there was very helpful.. He cut all my pieces to exact measurements and now I have got them back home and doing a dry fit test before I glue the top, bottom, left and right panels together.. Here's a few photos.. Fingers crossed should hopefully go all well







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post #11 of 181 Old 11-21-2017, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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It was a bit tricky with the band clamp lol but all ok now.. I have glued in the first one and applied reasonable pressure both on Band clamps and the quick grip clamps.. Any idea how long I should leave it in its clamp status before taking the clamps off? I mean I don't intend sticking the back facia today but I can then move on to the next one if I can remove the clamps.. I'll leave the clamps for a few hours or even till tomorrow no rush but I just didn't know how long is reccomended to leave them on.. Would appreciate some advice please..

Also the corners seem pretty flush and square as I used my square to check afterwards.. I cleaned the excess glue from the outside case to minimise any sanding later on in the build however left the inside with the excess glue as can be seen in the pictures... Hope this is OK to do?







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post #12 of 181 Old 11-21-2017, 10:44 AM
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Welcome to the club!!

You're off to a great start, they look perfect so far. Nice squeezeout inside to ensure a good seal, and square coeners. Don't need much else from an enclosure. I would be remiss if I didn't add my usual "you can never have too many clamps!" comment, but you can often manage with whatever is on hand. Looks like your band clamp is working nicely.

Keep at it, take your time, and enjoy the build! I'll follow along to see your impressions. These really are great speakers. I can't wait to get mine up and running in a proper setup.
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post #13 of 181 Old 11-21-2017, 11:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
Welcome to the club!!

You're off to a great start, they look perfect so far. Nice squeezeout inside to ensure a good seal, and square coeners. Don't need much else from an enclosure. I would be remiss if I didn't add my usual "you can never have too many clamps!" comment, but you can often manage with whatever is on hand. Looks like your band clamp is working nicely.

Keep at it, take your time, and enjoy the build! I'll follow along to see your impressions. These really are great speakers. I can't wait to get mine up and running in a proper setup.
Thank you brother. Much appreciated I will keep the thread alive as I continue to progress. Tomorrow I will do the second speaker box and post an update.. Thanks for all your help guys!!!
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post #14 of 181 Old 11-21-2017, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Right.. Off to bed now guys, however I just couldn't sit still lol.. I figured the clamps had been on for over 11 hours so was safe to take off and glue back panel for the duration of the night so that's what I did .. Tomorrow I'll start fresh on the second box fingers crossed after a few things I have to do in the morning.. Will update with pics as I go along.. Good night all...







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post #15 of 181 Old 11-21-2017, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
some, but not all , would start with sides 1 or 2 at a time being glued to the back

that way you have a better chance of keeping the sides all squared up 'cause the back is "square'

i wouldn't want to have to challenge the glues joints by maybe needing to handle squaring the assembled sides all at once to the back piece

it seems that controlling 4 sides at once wrt to keeping them all in the right alignment / place is more challenge than, for me and IMHO, than I would care to opt for

from my lessons in working with BFM plans, get each board right , 1 at a time and be sure to hit the mark . .

then get the next 1 right . . . .

and so on

It's a shame I just read your post now.. I may have done it that way.. I think I may give that ago on my second box. lets see how it pans out but the first box seems perfectly aligned touch wood
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post #16 of 181 Old 11-21-2017, 05:38 PM
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OTOH, if it ain't broken . . .
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post #17 of 181 Old 11-22-2017, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Current situation... All 3 box frames glued and clamped will do the rear panels tomorrow...



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post #18 of 181 Old 11-22-2017, 08:36 AM
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nice "flow",
hope it inspires others to appreciate well applied basics begun with the end in mind

not every DIY project "needs" a Manhattan Project mentality

but it can be fun at times

especially when you get to fire them up . .
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DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
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post #19 of 181 Old 11-22-2017, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
nice "flow",
hope it inspires others to appreciate well applied basics begun with the end in mind

not every DIY project "needs" a Manhattan Project mentality

but it can be fun at times

especially when you get to fire them up . .
Hey Dude, that looks amazing and complicated lol .. I like the use of kregg jig you had going there .. what are you building? subwoofer?
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post #20 of 181 Old 11-23-2017, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Today I managed to knock up the other two boxes.. Back panels glued and clamped.. Will probably leave the clamps on until tomorrow evening as I don't need them for anything else and once that's done I guess I'll need to wait for the front baffle and parts before I start cutting out and installing the vertical and horizontal braces into each box.. But this is the current situation as can be seen in photos below :



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post #21 of 181 Old 11-23-2017, 03:01 PM
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Thanksgiving not withstanding,

What about stuffing?

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
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post #22 of 181 Old 11-24-2017, 01:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
Thanksgiving not withstanding,

What about stuffing?
Not sure about the stuffing.. I was thinking if I could use 75mm Rockwool Insulation ? Will this be possible? Also if so , is it actually reccomended? I don't want to use something which is not suitable.
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post #23 of 181 Old 11-24-2017, 08:52 AM
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once you have location of the xo laid out,
IMO and experience reading around the farm , the roxul should be acousticallyadequate and as Erich might add a a generous handfull of polyfill gently but firmly around the horn

but


in my sound panel build, I always uses a sheer curtain material over either 703 and rosul for fiber control

in my various speaker builds needing stuffing I've always used the blue denim stuff, if only about 37+ mm, along with the poly , if needed

the denim doesn't have the "friability" , like asbestos, issues of the tiny fibers that make up roxul that might migrate into driver clearances, coils, etc. impacting, perhaps, performance and durability .

the denim can be stapled in, BAM!,


I used spray glue ONCE in my F15's . don't even think about it . . ..

I used 2" waffle foam in my 88 Special CC build.

HTH
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post #24 of 181 Old 11-24-2017, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
once you have location of the xo laid out,
IMO and experience reading around the farm , the roxul should be acousticallyadequate and as Erich might add a a generous handfull of polyfill gently but firmly around the horn

but


in my sound panel build, I always uses a sheer curtain material over either 703 and rosul for fiber control

in my various speaker builds needing stuffing I've always used the blue denim stuff, if only about 37+ mm, along with the poly , if needed

the denim doesn't have the "friability" , like asbestos, issues of the tiny fibers that make up roxul that might migrate into driver clearances, coils, etc. impacting, perhaps, performance and durability .

the denim can be stapled in, BAM!,
I used spray glue ONCE in my F15's . don't even think about it . . ..

I used 2" waffle foam in my 88 Special CC build.

HTH
Thank you so much for your help .. Really appreciate it. Rockwool is out the question then lol
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post #25 of 181 Old 11-24-2017, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Evening all, I know it's not much to get excited about lol but thought I'd add a couple more photos of the current situation.

I've just returned home from work and removed all clamps from box 2 and 3 which have been in clamps since yesterday morning so probably about 30 hrs in clamps.. I think this is all I can really do now untill I receive the front baffle and drivers so that I know exactly where to glue in the braces... Anyhow that will be it for a while.. Catch you guys hopefully in a few weeks once I get my delivery and thanks for all the support so far





One thing I did notice is when I used my band clamp on the second cabinet I placed it in the centre so it has thrown out the panel by 1 cm.. as can be seen in the pictures below.. This has really upset me as I wanted them to be exactly 18 inches to couple up with the front baffle. Do you guys think I can resolve this issue by sanding the front baffle or is that not reccomended and shall I use filler or shall I just re do the cabinet for this speaker again.. It's heart breaking as I spent so much time and effort into doing them..

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post #26 of 181 Old 11-24-2017, 01:32 PM
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well it's hard to see it, but 1 cm divided around the baffle is about too small (4mm to the left and right?) to put your knickers in a bunch
at this time

you'll have plenty to do so if that cab needs extra work , you can "just" plan to work around those extra steps while tending to the other 2

( maybe after checking for baffle fit, some tapered belt sander work just might do the trick . YMMV cause you have to look / live with it . .
you could start on the bracing configuration, at least thinking about, which I'm sure you already have . .

however, as a ported cab, thermonuclear resistant cab inertness should be kinda easy

the corners are some of the strongest points in the build !

it's the panels interior areas that you want to "hold fast"

the cab is not going to pressurize - it's ported , so

reducing the tendency to flex, of which there will almost none, is not rocket surgery

after looking at the dimensions of your build at DIYSG,

in the 2nd pic I used some 3" scraps of 3/4" ply and about 3 kreg screws and PL3 and pretty much ran down the center of each panel.

they ain't flexing. . or bulging apart from internal pressure
looks like i came just a bit over 3" from the corner junctions

be sure to include clearance for the ports wrt to stuffing

HTH
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L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
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post #27 of 181 Old 11-24-2017, 01:48 PM
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Can't see the last pic, not sure if it's just me

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post #28 of 181 Old 11-25-2017, 02:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Can't see the last pic, not sure if it's just me

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Sorry not sure why that happened but here it is.. As can be seen it's 1cm out unfortunately
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post #29 of 181 Old 11-25-2017, 09:37 AM
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Sorry not sure why that happened but here it is.. As can be seen it's 1cm out unfortunately
Still not working, maybe just attach to the forum?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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post #30 of 181 Old 11-25-2017, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vince_B View Post
Still not working, maybe just attach to the forum?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Hope it's ok now!

Oh and actually I just noticed it's not 1cm.. it's 1/16 of an inch! so I hope this won't be an issue.
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