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post #1 of 12 Old 11-26-2017, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Help w/ Amp for Dual JBL CCX1200

New here and recently started building up my home audio,

current set up:

receiver -Denon AVR-S510BT 5.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD AV Receiver
fronts -2X Bic America Dv 84 tower speakers

upcoming additions:

rears - thinking of either getting another pair of Dv 84's orr BIC America DV62si
center - BIC America DV-62CLRS 6-Inch 2-Way

need help replacing BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer

this site brought to my attention of a pretty good sale on some JBL 12" subs, plan is to replace my BIC 12" with two of the JBL's

**can't post links yet, but it's from BestBuy "JBL - CX Series 12" Single-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer - Black" and is on for $30 each

I can manage to hold my own for the most part, just need some direction on what sort of amp I should get to make these work with my receiver. Any and all help is much appreciated!
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-27-2017, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott05 View Post
need help replacing BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer

this site brought to my attention of a pretty good sale on some JBL 12" subs, plan is to replace my BIC 12" with two of the JBL's

**can't post links yet, but it's from BestBuy "JBL - CX Series 12" Single-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer - Black" and is on for $30 each

I can manage to hold my own for the most part, just need some direction on what sort of amp I should get to make these work with my receiver. Any and all help is much appreciated!
Something in the iNuke DSP family would be your best bet. Which model depends entirely on if you plan to go sealed or ported, if you want to be able to add more later on, etc. So if you can tell us your plans there we can suggest if you want the iNuke 1000, 3000, or 6000 DSP, or another amp brand entirely.

I snagged the older model of that sub (JBL CS1214) for 27 bucks a driver myself and am super excited to get them delivered tomorrow. At that price I ordered a fair amount of them and personally am going all sealed....

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post #3 of 12 Old 11-27-2017, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Ported vs. Sealed, I'm thinking sealed but may change my mind later.

Only two as far as subwoofers go, so I only need to worry about setting these two up. I think they would look good box'd together under my tv, but also like the options having them separate gives you, now that we are planning on moving soon.

Not sure what is needed to get them to work. Does it go SUB > iNUKE > RECEIVER ? I would probably like to know best budget amp to power both together and both separate so I can better decide.

My original plan was to just get my sub switched out for a new one, but now I'm on this tangent and wasn't really planning on spending so much money lol. The sub I got now is a little over $200 USD so I'm hoping to keep this entire set-up (1 amp/2 amp + subs) not too far off of that mark if possible...It'll probably go up to $400 with my luck :P
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-27-2017, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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If ported vs. sealed is a big factor in the amp (I didn't think it ever was) then I'd say sealed as I got enough subs going on that I rather more accurate bass then boomy. I have a sealed 12" JL in my trunk that hits hard enough for me that I can't image needing a ported box inside let alone two of them. (but I'm not 100%)
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-28-2017, 05:17 AM
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If ported vs. sealed is a big factor in the amp (I didn't think it ever was) then I'd say sealed as I got enough subs going on that I rather more accurate bass then boomy. I have a sealed 12" JL in my trunk that hits hard enough for me that I can't image needing a ported box inside let alone two of them. (but I'm not 100%)
Depending on room size there may be a large difference. In your car, you get a LOT OF CABIN GAIN. The same is not always true in your house. Additionally ported CAR AUDIO BOXES tend to be built for SPL over ACCURACY. They also tend to be ported to the 30-40hz range, whereas a HT sub is ported to normally somewhere in the low 20's, with the goal of covering the entire audible frequency range and if possible a "bit" below that. The port tune makes a pretty big difference in sound quality aka boominess.

I've owned a lot of car audio stuff and I can tell you that while the concepts & theorys transfer, the experiences dont because of the way your car is setup, you have a lot of factors that differ between car and home audio. So dont discount ported subs as "boomy". Badly configured subs will be boomy, sure (and honeslty your BIC is likely one of them)... but that doesnt mean everything is.

Sealed subs tend to take a lot more wattage than ported can, and its not a good or bad thing, just one of the differences. Either way with the iNuke DSP series, as you can set a high pass for your ported sub (to keep it from going over its max excursion), as well as limit the current (so you dont send it too much wattage) for a ported sub.

Keep in mind, you may need 2 sealed subs with a lot of power to get "close" to the performance offered by a single ported sub. So dollar per dollar, if you can build the "right size" ported box for your driver, you are maximizing both your performance, and your amp cost as you dont need as much amp as a sealed box (or you get the same amp and can run 2x the number of ported boxes).

All that said, that's mainly theory. To determine what would work best for you, we need to know some specific information about your setup and your goals.

These include, but are not limited to: Room size, if its open to other rooms or fully enclosed, where you sit, where you plan to place the subs, what the largest box dimensions you can do are, how many, what amp your looking at buying, how low you want to hear/feel, etc. All of this data determines what would be better for you.

As far as ease of use, sealed is always easier to build and use, but may not be best in your scenario.

Example: I was looking to build 3 3.5 cubic foot ported boxes tuned to 19hz with each box containing a single Infinity 12" sub. I got curious how it would look if I took the same box (dimensions and all) and made it sealed. That single ported box was MUCH better than the sealed version which was actually a bit bigger due to gaining back the space from the port on paper.

So I decided to up the ante. That ported box with a single driver performed better from about 40hz to 17hz than a sealed box with 2 drivers (with box size staying the same). The sealed box also took a TON more power to get close to the performance of the ported box, which was using 1/2 the power (so in theory I could run 2 off the same channel of my amp and get even more performance).

The rule of thumb I've heard is that a ported box with a single driver compared to a sealed box with a single driver, will provide 6db OR MORE of SPL at the tuning frequency of the ported box and outperform the sealed box until a couple hz below its tuning frequency due to room gain.

So in my situation the sealed subs dig deeper on paper, and have a bit more SPL above 40hz, and more below 17hz, but thats about it. And at 17hz where the sealed driver overtakes the ported one, depending on what SPL you are achieving, and the distance from your listening position (and other factors), that extra SPL may not be enough to actually be felt/heard.

So again, ported can help keep get you good performance for a low cost. All of it depends on your individual situation however.

In my case, I am going sealed solely because I was able to get the drivers so cheap, the boxes will be a bit smaller (and easier to build) than the ported ones, and to get more performance I can just add more amps/more wattage at a later date, which is easier than adding more boxes.

So tell us what your working with and we can help you figure out whats best for you, in your situation

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post #6 of 12 Old 11-28-2017, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Current room is approx 16.5ft x 11.5ft with about a 9ft opening (in the middle of the 16.5ft) that is opened to the dinning room and kitchen beside that... open floor plan. Unfortunately I do plan on moving soon-ish and have no idea what size room all this will end up in but I'm hoping for a bigger one lol. I am a fan of open concept and having the freedom to move around and still listen to my music.

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Keep in mind, you may need 2 sealed subs with a lot of power to get "close" to the performance offered by a single ported sub. So dollar per dollar, if you can build the "right size" ported box for your driver, you are maximizing both your performance, and your amp cost as you dont need as much amp as a sealed box (or you get the same amp and can run 2x the number of ported boxes).
Okay sounds like I want ported then and probably in two separate boxes. Current set-up I'll have both of them under the tv or depending the size or one in each corner of the room beside the tv. Next place I will either do the same or if possible have one in the front middle of the room and one in the back middle (between the rear speakers)

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All that said, that's mainly theory. To determine what would work best for you, we need to know some specific information about your setup and your goals.

These include, but are not limited to: Room size, if its open to other rooms or fully enclosed, where you sit, where you plan to place the subs, what the largest box dimensions you can do are, how many, what amp your looking at buying, how low you want to hear/feel, etc. All of this data determines what would be better for you.
we sit against the back wall but would like to be a few feet off the wall to allow room for rear speakers etc at next place. Box size (17" x 14.75" x 17") is the BIC F12 and I like that size so ideally in that range but am able to go to whatever size for best results as I know ported is usually larger. I'm thinking two boxes and I don't know how low but if I'm going all out building my own I would like to do it right so I'll take and advice you got and do my best. Obviously I would love for the end result to be noticeably different then the BIC F12 and do enjoy shaking the house while the kids are trying to play video games downstairs :P

End game: Have two ported boxes with mounted amps on each so they are easy to relocate, have them shake the house and out perform the BIC F12 all while looking good and being affordable.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I could just stack the two amps above my receiver at just run speaker wire to each of the subs right? Not sure if it's worth it to save space on the sub box size / location.
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-28-2017, 05:03 PM
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if you are building your own boxes you could build a box that would work sealed as well as ported. say 5 cu ft

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post #8 of 12 Old 11-29-2017, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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if you are building your own boxes you could build a box that would work sealed as well as ported. say 5 cu ft
How does that work? Just make a plug for the port? But that would mean I need a more powerful (expensive) amp to make the sealed live up to what the ported could do with a lesser amp right?

Anyways my subs came in today! : ) So what would be the ideal amp to port one of these bad boys?




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post #9 of 12 Old 11-29-2017, 06:57 PM
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you wouldnt need a more powerful amp. the ported will give some more low end but now you need dsp to high pass below the tune= more money.

remote amps are cleaner than plate amps mounted to the sub. with the plate amp you have to run an rca line to the plate amp, AND a power cord to an outlet.

with a remote amp you only have to run the power wires to the speakers.

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post #10 of 12 Old 11-30-2017, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I like the idea of a remote amp. Can I set it up with two remote amps for the boxes and then later on add in (I'm assuming I need two?) two remote dsp's? I don't have the budget to buy 4 more units at this time as I was thinking all I needed was 2 amps and I don't want to cheap out on them now just to be able to also afford the DSP's... which look pretty pricey :/

Can you recommend a good amp for a ported box for one of these subs? Current box I'm replacing is (17" x 14.75" x 17") so about 2.5 cubic feet, I'd like to stay in that area but have room to go up to probably 3 to 3.5 cubic feet if it'll make a huge difference/improvement.
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post #11 of 12 Old 12-01-2017, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Bumping this as I'm really wanting to get this up and running.

If I go plated amp, the Bash 500S Digital Sub-woofer Plate Amplifier 500W RMS would run both subs in the same box and a Bash 300S Digital Subwoofer Plate Amplifier 300W RMS would run one sub in it's own box?

The Sub is 250W RMS, 1000W peak Power Handling and 4 Ohms Nominal Impedance - 35Hz – 200Hz Frequency response. SVC

So correct me if I'm wrong but all I need is an amp that is rated at 250W RMS or higher for a single sub @ a 4 ohm load or 500W RMS for both subs @ 8 ohms? I'm assuming a higher Watt and RMS is better but not needed.

I don't understand the difference in amp types, stereo receivers vs integrated amps vs power amps vs stereo pre-amps vs surround sound pre-amp/processor vs etc

Being a single voice coil and I'm just using the amp for the sub then my best bet money wise is to get a mono amp right? is there other ohm's it can be? not 100% on how the bridging works if it's a SVC or if I'm limited to a mono 4 ohm amp
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-26-2018, 02:10 PM
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Did you figure out what you needed? I'm curious to see how this project ended up.

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