Mini Marty: Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax (Build Thread) - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 186 Old 01-13-2018, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Mini Marty: Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax (Build Thread)

Hey Guys,

This will be my actual build thread for my Mini Marty: Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax Subwoofer

This thread is following on from the thread linked below:

Mini Marty Subwoofer Build Query

Thank you for everyone who has helped with all the queries I had especially @monty6400 and @LTD02

So today I got my MDF cut and started the project.. It will probably be all finished within the next 2 weeks as I will try to manage work/life balance and the build all together in order to meet the predicted time frame ..

I am taking a slightly different approach in building this but I want to make sure the frame is completely square and not one bit wonky so building it slightly different than usual marty builds..











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post #2 of 186 Old 01-13-2018, 06:07 PM
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Whoa! Are you gluing that up on a bare hardwood floor? It might end up stuck there. I guess it could simplify the build if one side is the actual floor lol.
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post #3 of 186 Old 01-13-2018, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Whoa! Are you gluing that up on a bare hardwood floor? It might end up stuck there. I guess it could simplify the build if one side is the actual floor lol.
Lol.. Thank you for your concern but not to fear lol.. After gluing and clamping, I always move into place then wipe all the glue off the floor and surroundings..

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post #4 of 186 Old 01-14-2018, 05:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Stage 2: Back panel installed before heading off to work.. Will leave it clamped till tomorrow morning so it'll have a good 20hrs clamp session

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post #5 of 186 Old 01-17-2018, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Mini Update:

I have been trying to adjust work / life balance and building the subwoofer and so far I managed to prime, paint the port x 2 coats each.. Stick the port base and back and do the braces.. I did 3 horizontal and 3 vertical braces also attached strips 36mm in from the front in order to attach the double front panel. Also cut small blocks and attached to both sides of each braces for extra security and strength.. Hope the bracing is sufficient and I hope that it wouldn't interfere with the back of the Dayton Ultimax 18-22 18 driver. I left what I believe to be a sufficient amount of gap but would appreciate some suggestions or feedback / advice if necessary.. Thanks in advance.. Also received my inuke 6000dsp today and still waiting on the Dayton Ultimax to arrive which should be a few more days at the most (I hope) please see attached pictures.. Many thanks.. Click image for larger version

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post #6 of 186 Old 01-19-2018, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Current bracing situation..Just cut a few more small blocks as I ran out of them last night and will glue them in shortly to finish off the bracing.. I tug on the bracing this morning and it's Rock solid



Got these in the post yesterday. Now waiting for my cable, acoustic foam and actual driver to arrive



The acoustic foam for lining up the inside of the cabinet should be arriving today along with the cable and other bits.. I am actually still awaiting for the Dayton Ultimax to arrive.. Last notification I had was yesterday evening .. Said it was cleared through customs in UK and that it was out for delivery so I am guessing it will be delivered today probably, however I'm working till later this evening so will probably have to pick it up from the local depot..
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post #7 of 186 Old 01-19-2018, 06:44 AM
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Good god, I feel so many people completely go nuts with the bracing. Honestly, most people can do with just half of the bracing on their build and the sub box would still be a tank compared to commercial units.
I threw around my gigantic plywood box that measures 30x21x40 with no bracing and it already felt like a giant rock.
I'm not discouraging a strong build, but sometimes it's excessive lol.
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post #8 of 186 Old 01-19-2018, 11:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarier View Post
Good god, I feel so many people completely go nuts with the bracing. Honestly, most people can do with just half of the bracing on their build and the sub box would still be a tank compared to commercial units.
I threw around my gigantic plywood box that measures 30x21x40 with no bracing and it already felt like a giant rock.
I'm not discouraging a strong build, but sometimes it's excessive lol.
It's all fun and games mate no issues!
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post #9 of 186 Old 01-21-2018, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Well.. She's finally made it home.. This beast is beautiful but very large and heavy

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post #10 of 186 Old 01-21-2018, 06:18 PM
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Welcome to the UM18-22 club!


EDIT: One piece of advice... before you make the actual hole for the baffle, I would do a test cut on a scrap piece and see how the woofer fits. When I made a 16.75" test hole like Parts Express said, the hole was too. There was a huge gap between the edge of the MDF baffle and the edge of the UM18. I was not comfortable with how much of a gap.
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Last edited by Craig S King; 01-21-2018 at 06:22 PM.
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post #11 of 186 Old 01-21-2018, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
Welcome to the UM18-22 club!


EDIT: One piece of advice... before you make the actual hole for the baffle, I would do a test cut on a scrap piece and see how the woofer fits. When I made a 16.75" test hole like Parts Express said, the hole was too. There was a huge gap between the edge of the MDF baffle and the edge of the UM18. I was not comfortable with how much of a gap.
Thanks for the tip.. I had an idea... The packaging comes with a cardboard inset.. One of the inset is the exact diameter of the external lip of the driver and the other is the internal diameter so what I have done is gently pried the top layer from it and will trace it onto the MDF front baffle if that makes any sense at all.. I know I can just use a tape measure however this is a good guidance I think... What do you guys think? Here are some pictures to help you understand what I'm talking about



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post #12 of 186 Old 01-21-2018, 06:57 PM
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Just wanted to say nice work so far. Stay with it and it won't be too much longer this baby will be pumping out the "sweet nectar" in your room. Sub'ed
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post #13 of 186 Old 01-21-2018, 10:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biga6761 View Post
Just wanted to say nice work so far. Stay with it and it won't be too much longer this baby will be pumping out the "sweet nectar" in your room. Sub'ed
"sweet nectar" LOL thanks @biga6761
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post #14 of 186 Old 01-22-2018, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick preparation after work for tomorrow morning.. If the weather permits I will cut the front outer baffle (driver and port holes) and the 2 x inner baffles.. Obviously the 2 x inner baffles will be slightly smaller for the driver to be screwed into... Here's a quick pic... Oh and I'll probably cut out the speakon connection at the back too whilst I'm at it when cutting out the port holes I'm thinking of leaving the 2mm shy from perfect cut then I can flush trim with the router to get a perfectly aligned port cut out... Any tips or ideas or is this the way to go? Thanks

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post #15 of 186 Old 01-22-2018, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
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Are you using the top layer, or the bottom layer of the cardboard? The top layer you're holding in your left hand will measure 18" in diameter.... which is too big. You'll want to use the smaller diameter layer. And for reference, I just measured mine. It comes in a 16.625"
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post #16 of 186 Old 01-22-2018, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi there, what I'm using in my left hand is the exact measurement the subwoofer outer diameter.. So if I cut it to that size the subwoofer will fall through the hole.. This is ok as I am doing a flush mount.. So the next 2 x inner baffles will be smaller diameter in order for the subwoofer not to fall through and to screw onto if that makes sense?

Also what's the best way in screwing the driver into the baffle? Normal screws or bolt type screws would appreciate some advice on this as this beast is super heavy.. Thank you..

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post #17 of 186 Old 01-22-2018, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Guys,

Sorry just have another question and would appreciate all the help I can get. I just turned on the inuke 6000dsp for the first time and thought "JESUS" lol how noisy are these blooming fans? lol... I can't live with that.. These fans must go.. Can anyone please point me to a easy to follow guide on how to change the fans for the inuke 6000dsp version and also are the fan size same as this in the link:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KF7MV..._t1_B000KP3V42

Also, would this be a good fan to swap out with or are there better ones that are recomended?? Thank you.

Last question for tonight, I looked at the inuke controller program and baring in mind this will only be used for my ultimax 18" subwoofer in a mini marty, do I not bother tampering with parametric eq and dynamic eq and just let ARC software (Anthem AVM 60 ) take care of all that part?

Thank you.
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post #18 of 186 Old 01-23-2018, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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So... This morning / early afternoon I wanted to get the cut outs done before I came into work.. I have managed to cut out the main baffle, cut out the two inner baffles, cut out the speakon connection (flush mount), rough cut the port holes then round over the outer baffles circular cut out and flush cut and round over the port holes.. All in all took me around 2 hrs but was definitely a lot of fun .. I wanted to do the round overs to give it a more professional look.. I will also do the whole cabinet when I have stuck on the baffles and sanded the cabinet.

I then dry test fit the driver and touch wood it fit like a glove .. So far so good.. However unfortunately I had a bit of a situation I the mic.. Basically when I was flush cutting the port holes in the last one (far right) the flush trim bit wheel came off and it caused me to slight over cut (cut into the actual port).. This can be seen in the picture with the porte attached.. There are two things I can do...

1 - buy some good wood filler the type that goes off and becomes very strong.. I think its Ronseal if I'm not mistaken...

2- re do the whole front baffle again.. This is really not the option I want to take and would be much happier with option 1 as its the least time consuming and cost effective method..

What I would like to know is which option would you recommend.. Can I get it recovered with option 1 then round over and hope for the best or would you suggest option 2? Thanks for all your help and advice

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post #19 of 186 Old 01-23-2018, 07:58 AM
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Just fill it with body filler (Bondo or something like it), let it set, sand the surface flush, and route over it again with your flush trim and roundover bits. The only downside is that all the other edges will suck paint in like a sponge and look rough while the filled area will be glassy smooth. If you are duratexing it then this won't be an issue, but if painting, then you might want to treat all the edges with filler and sanding/re-roundover. Finishing MDF edges is never easy.
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post #20 of 186 Old 01-23-2018, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Just fill it with body filler (Bondo or something like it), let it set, sand the surface flush, and route over it again with your flush trim and roundover bits. The only downside is that all the other edges will suck paint in like a sponge and look rough while the filled area will be glassy smooth. If you are duratexing it then this won't be an issue, but if painting, then you might want to treat all the edges with filler and sanding/re-roundover. Finishing MDF edges is never easy.
Cheers buddy.. That's what I was also thinking of doing.. Hopefully it won't look out of place.. I am really anal about these things.. Little details really matter to me and if it don't look right I end up re doing lol.. A little OCD

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post #21 of 186 Old 01-23-2018, 10:06 AM
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for MDF edges even if painted or duratex, or rattle can spray finish . .

Kilz - either rattle can or 1/4" short napped roller in light multiple coats with not quite OCD sanding

your touch will let you know

or course you've sanded well before even starting that process

from last spring, my 88 Special with standard issue MDF baffle and some of its surface texture still evident but SHINY RED : because

that's a Chrysler touch up color, some sort of satin ruby metallic and the metal is a satin oil rubbed bronze.

so shoot me . . .
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post #22 of 186 Old 01-23-2018, 02:31 PM
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I'm in the middle of doing my mini Marty box for a Um18 also. I'm "only" doing two baffles though, lol. Yours is looking quite nice. Is that a 1/2 roundover you used?

I also opted to do the "revised" design with the longer port tuned to 17 Hz (back port extends to 5 inches from the end of the box) . I am also using an iNuke 6000. Too bad we don't have measuring gear to directly compare the two variations in the box designs.
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post #23 of 186 Old 01-23-2018, 06:10 PM
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There are two things I can do...

1 - buy some good wood filler the type that goes off and becomes very strong.. I think its Ronseal if I'm not mistaken...
This, definitely. We have stuff called "bog" which is body filler. I used it to fill a deep router accident when building my box.


Don't know if you really need the heavy duty version, but it says "no shrink", which sounded like a good feature to me.
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post #24 of 186 Old 01-24-2018, 04:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Afternoon guys.. As I'm not working today I am going to try and do some more work on the mini marty.. I tried to dry fit test the Dayton before lining up the inside of the cabinet and gluing the front baffles.. The driver was pretruding by half an inch.. I knew what the problem was.. It was the horizontal bracing on the first row so I had to make minor modifications and all fits perfectly now

I then glued and screwed the 2 x inner front baffles together and just waiting on them to dry. I also applied some filler to the outer baffle and once that is completely dry and hardened, I will give it a sand and see how it looks. Should be OK fingers crossed .Click image for larger version

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post #25 of 186 Old 01-24-2018, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by dTorC4 View Post
I'm in the middle of doing my mini Marty box for a Um18 also. I'm "only" doing two baffles though, lol. Yours is looking quite nice. Is that a 1/2 roundover you used?

I also opted to do the "revised" design with the longer port tuned to 17 Hz (back port extends to 5 inches from the end of the box) . I am also using an iNuke 6000. Too bad we don't have measuring gear to directly compare the two variations in the box designs.
This is like you say a variation of the mini and is in fact tuned to 17Hz! The OP has also ordered a UMIK1 to use!
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post #26 of 186 Old 01-24-2018, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dTorC4 View Post
I'm in the middle of doing my mini Marty box for a Um18 also. I'm "only" doing two baffles though, lol. Yours is looking quite nice. Is that a 1/2 roundover you used?

I also opted to do the "revised" design with the longer port tuned to 17 Hz (back port extends to 5 inches from the end of the box) . I am also using an iNuke 6000. Too bad we don't have measuring gear to directly compare the two variations in the box designs.
Good luck with your build brother..thanks for your kind words. Yes it's a round over bit, I think it's 1/2 can't remember .. Make sure you start a thread if you haven't already..


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post #27 of 186 Old 01-24-2018, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys.. I think I have finished the lining up of the cabinet... 13 acoustic tiles and 2 x spray glue cans later here's what I have.. I would appreciate if you guys could let me know if this is sufficient enough.. I will add a bit onto the back of the internal panel too before gluing on.. Cheers

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Last edited by mkohman; 01-30-2018 at 04:51 PM.
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post #28 of 186 Old 01-24-2018, 12:05 PM
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Good luck with your build brother.. Make sure you start a thread if you haven't already..
Thanks man. I will create a thread, but I'm going to do it Netflix-style. Rather than an ongoing saga of pics and posts over the course of a few weeks, I'm going to dump it all at once so interested parties can binge watch the whole project at one time.
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post #29 of 186 Old 01-24-2018, 12:09 PM
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Hey guys.. I think I have finished the lining up of the cabinet... 13 acoustic tiles and 2 x spray glue cans later here's what I have.. I would appreciate if you guys could let me know if this is sufficient enough.. I will add a bit onto the back of the internal panel too before gluing on.. Cheers [iurl="https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2350612&stc=1&d=151682 4280"][/iurl][iurl="https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2350614&stc=1&d=151682 4283"][/iurl][iurl="https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2350616&stc=1&d=151682 4287"][/iurl]

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Damn, that looks sexy.
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post #30 of 186 Old 01-24-2018, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks man. I will create a thread, but I'm going to do it Netflix-style. Rather than an ongoing saga of pics and posts over the course of a few weeks, I'm going to dump it all at once so interested parties can binge watch the whole project at one time.
That's actually a good way to do it too, however I like doing it this way because I can show all you guys my daily progress and gather tips and help along the way in order to prevent making a mistake or going the wrong way

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