Is it worth replacing 88 Special with a Fusion 15 Sentinel? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 7Likes
  • 4 Post By Cam Man
  • 2 Post By Linkwitz Riley
  • 1 Post By Cam Man
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 18 Old 02-08-2018, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Linkwitz Riley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Is it worth replacing 88 Special with a Fusion 15 Sentinel?

I currently have an 88 Special doing CC duty with some VMPS L&R Mains. I am planning on replacing the VMPS with a pair of Fusion 15 Sentinels and was wondering if it would be worth getting a third Sentinel to replace my 88 in the center? The cost of a third Sentinel isn't much but there is extra labor involved so just wondering if the extra midbass from a 3rd 15" Deltalite and exact same crossover will make a big enough difference to justify it. The L&R will be on level stands to have the horns at 38-40" height whereas the one in the center would simply have to be on the floor, angled up 6° to aim at the main listening position's ear level. Worth the effort?
Linkwitz Riley is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 Old 02-08-2018, 07:42 AM
Advanced Member
 
markg35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 834
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 344 Post(s)
Liked: 268
I would try it with the Fusion 15's first.Same waveguide, it should work great.
markg35 is online now  
post #3 of 18 Old 02-08-2018, 08:05 AM
Senior Member
 
wasser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 262
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 119 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Practically: I'd say just stick with the 88 Special. Extra midbass in a center channel doesn't seem worth the effort to me. Perhaps if you have another purpose for the 88 Special or another compelling reason, but just for the midbass/crossover doesn't seem worth it to me.
Personally: Go for it and cut me a sweet deal on the 88 Special.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Fusion-15: Asian Night Sentinels
wasser is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 18 Old 02-08-2018, 02:57 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asarose247's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DIY enabled in SoCal / OC
Posts: 4,296
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1199 Post(s)
Liked: 1055
a small amount of DIY effort to create a simple stand , if space permits, may allow you to get the 15's and the 88 horns aligned horizontally . . .

definitely worth the effort and probably made from "scraps"
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	82 in place.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	1.03 MB
ID:	2358012  

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
asarose247 is online now  
post #5 of 18 Old 02-08-2018, 03:18 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 4,771
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1100 Post(s)
Liked: 445
I would keep the 88 as a center. If you need more midbass just add a MBM below. I thought it would have been cool if they made a 88 Special as part of a large modular 3way. Like the 1899. Then when others could afford it or had the space they could add on from the 88 special. I think that idea may have been gone and dusted a while ago. BUT I would keep the 88 as the center for now.
chrapladm is online now  
post #6 of 18 Old 02-08-2018, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Linkwitz Riley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 39
OK thanks to all for your advice. I'm actually trying to downsize which is why I'm getting rid of my MBMs (VMPS Larger Subs) and octo 18s and 5 external amps and impedance matching transformers and EQs and electronic XOs, etc. Just going to use my Flagship Yamaha receiver to power high efficiency Fusion 15s and my 4 Volt 10lx and a pair of JTR S2s. Much simpler. I know it doesn't usually work that way in our hobby. I must be getting really old!
I could get 3 Sentinels at the same height across the front but they would all be on the floor and angled back 6 degrees. I can raise the L&R but not the center as I use an 80" flat panel. Is it better to have them all aligned but on the floor angled up as opposed to L&R at ear height with center angled? Either way my center, whether I use my 88 or a Sentinel, would have to be angled up.
Linkwitz Riley is offline  
post #7 of 18 Old 02-08-2018, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Linkwitz Riley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
a small amount of DIY effort to create a simple stand , if space permits, may allow you to get the 15's and the 88 horns aligned horizontally . . .

definitely worth the effort and probably made from "scraps"
asarose 247: how far do you sit from your screen? I'm at about 13 ft. I noticed yours are sitting flat on the floor and not angled. Do you sit really low? Aren't your horns below ear level? Does it make absolutely no difference? Maybe I'm worrying about something that is really a non issue?
Linkwitz Riley is offline  
post #8 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 09:55 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asarose247's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DIY enabled in SoCal / OC
Posts: 4,296
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1199 Post(s)
Liked: 1055
@Linkwitz Riley

After hanging the new 82" TV, I lost my 1 1/2" clearance for the LCR and had to remove the short feet for the f15's but was still able to use 1/4" felt pads, and put 2 on the front edge of the 15's.
The 88 on the stand also has that "tilt" but I haven't done the geometry for that wrt how it hits my ears
I sit back 11' from all that and the horns on the 15's are usually 66 to 72" C2C depending on toe-in.
my couch feet have added machinery anti-vibration pads (big ones , like 4" x 6" x 1") (Grainger) and wooden blocks that allow for "play" with the Clarkson shakers.
So I think , if sitting up my ears are in the 40" + range that's the math.

so the hrons are about 24-25 ish from the floor, I'm not home so I would need to measure.

I test listen with a huge variety, solo voices, Big Band, select pop tunes, rocknroll, Ambient, youtube musicians, JLC concerts and have about 100 gigs of the select cuts we'd rather listen to than sit through a whole movie for, sometimes . .

I have some first side wall reflection points panels and the room is 14.5 wide.

Unless a piece is specifically ATMOS, sometimes the music and TV, in plain stereo, are actually a better sound stage with just the 15's and subs, not DSU. it depends.

For tunes like Papa was a rolling stone, you get the full psychedelic effect in stereo, : What were those guys smoking?

and for real giggles, there is a you tube remix of Billy Jean by fggkremastered where the various elements that make up the tune each get a very clear and extended play.
the snare drum starts but it's slowed down . you hear the tap and then the rest of it. awesome. . the detail is of what goes into each piece of the tune is ear candy.


you can read the wiki-pedia blurb about how Quincy Jones and Jackson went back and forth about the mix of the original. some mighty fine work there . .

@Samps just built some extended 15's to get the horns up a bit higher wrt ear level. ask him what he thinks.

I wish I had more time to just park there and listen. on the X5200 thru the ATI amp, in stereo, the MV at -15 is plenty loud, -18 is even better.

HTH

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
asarose247 is online now  
post #9 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 10:14 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
MKtheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 18,378
Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked: 2319
I am going to say get all matching LCR, perfect timbre and being on the floor angled up is fine. No what ifs!

Audio Design Associates/Outlaw
Speakerpower SP1-4000
subs-Re audio XXX 18 IB(LT).
DIY speakers-mktheater-S10/S12s
MKtheater is online now  
post #10 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 11:49 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Samps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,729
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1220 Post(s)
Liked: 901
Mine aren't finished yet so I can't comment on the sound. But my previous experience has been that the height of the tweeter/CD doesn't effect you much within reason. The angle left and right is much more important.

If you have a second row of seats the height will be more important.
Samps is offline  
post #11 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Linkwitz Riley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 39
No second row of seats but there is open area behind the sofa that we use to listen to music when imbibing some adult beverages, so maybe the stands are a bit more important. OK, 3 Sentinels, 2 on level stands 15" high and the CC one on the floor angled at 6°. Was someone serious about wanting to buy the 88? Semi gloss black finish (nice) with rectangular magnetic grill over the two 8" drivers. Horn and ports obviously still exposed. Pretty much perfect condition.
Linkwitz Riley is offline  
post #12 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 10:17 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Cam Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Tucson, AZ, Telluride, CO, & Los Angeles,CA, USA
Posts: 3,355
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 509 Post(s)
Liked: 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkwitz Riley View Post
I currently have an 88 Special doing CC duty with some VMPS L&R Mains. I am planning on replacing the VMPS with a pair of Fusion 15 Sentinels and was wondering if it would be worth getting a third Sentinel to replace my 88 in the center? The cost of a third Sentinel isn't much but there is extra labor involved so just wondering if the extra midbass from a 3rd 15" Deltalite and exact same crossover will make a big enough difference to justify it. The L&R will be on level stands to have the horns at 38-40" height whereas the one in the center would simply have to be on the floor, angled up 6° to aim at the main listening position's ear level. Worth the effort?
Having read all here to date, I have a couple of questions before possibly making some suggestions that are not here so far.

You told us the width of your room, but not the length, ceiling height, and your distance.

The 88 Special was my first DIYSG speaker. Somewhat like your situation, I had positioning restrictions. The 88 was the most bang for the buck I could find, and I'd tried everything in there for a center speaker over the last 20 years. My situation is different from yours in that my LCRs are built-ins (see room link below).

We have come to expect that below the screen is the place for a center speaker because it is easier to get it there, and because ceiling height may limit room above the screen. There are two problems with centers on the floor. The first you know, so I won't discuss. The second is one that is not discussed much; that's screen disassociation. In virtually every installation, we have something of a look up angle to our screens. When a sound associated with something on the picture (spoken word/dialogue being the most important) does not come from where we see it happening, we can be distracted by the disassociation. We tend to adapt to this, but it is worth pointing out that if looking up at the screen, but the voice draws a glance downward, that is distracting. If the center is the same distance above the screen, the sound does not prompt us to move our heads to find it, therefore we are not easily distracted. There is less screen disassociation with center channels above the screen in most rooms (if you can't get it behind it in the case of AT projection screen).

Second thing to consider is the flexibility you gain with HTM-12 L/R mains rather than Fusion-15s. Presuming you could get an 88 Special wall-mounted above your screen, you could wall-mount HTM-12s to be rather close to the height of the 88 like you see in my room (88 Special installed upside down). The HTM-12 is designed to benefit from the close proximity to the wall or in a baffle wall. In fact, designer Matt I think says that the HTM-12 might challenge the Fusion-15 in that scenario.

There is rarely a residential-size room that cannot benefit from bass management to nominalize small room LF acoustics. My "baffle wall" mounted HTM-12s dig deep, but if I cross them below 60Hz, there is an overall reduction in LF acoustic energy. This is a product of placement (left and right mains have to be in rather specific places to work with a movie or TV screen...but subs and/or seating can be positioned to result in nominal LF energy at the listening location). If I cross the HTM-12s at 60Hz, the subs take over below 60Hz and the LF acoustic response is dramatically improved at the listening row. Such speakers aren't designed to be used with subwoofers just because they can't reach down low. It's because designers know that often positions in which we are stuck putting our main speakers (LCRs) are not nominal for LF acoustic response. Dump them off to the subs not based on the specs of the main speakers, but based on their LF acoustic performance measured/verified at your listening area. And do listening tests to help verify.

I find the HTM-12 hits a happy performance design for residential rooms that are pretty moderately large or outright big. I think it is wiser to not fight the extra weight and bulk of the Fusion-15s or Titan615s unless you have a huge room where you need huge output and where LF acoustic response is easier to predict and manage. Using such large speakers at full range in small rooms can result in some maddening problems/frustrations/disappointments below 80Hz.

The 88 Special is a different story. It definitely does not have the lower reach that I'd like an LCR to have (at least strongly down to 80Hz). It's pretty much done at 90Hz, but above that is pretty amazing. At first I worried about this and whether they would work in harmony with the HTM-12s. But after MultEQxt32 calibration and letting its bass management take everything below 90Hz to the subs, it and the HTM-12s sound in perfect harmony with program material.

That said, if I had a choice, I'd always have identical LCRs. But in an imperfect environment (like mine), the 88 Special and the HTM-12 provide solutions that are pretty darned impressive.

Food for thought...FWIW.
IAH, asarose247, EarlK and 1 others like this.
Cam Man is offline  
post #13 of 18 Old 02-10-2018, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Linkwitz Riley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Width of room is about 20'. Distance to MLP is 13', but room is open behind me for another 17' making total depth of 30'. Ceilings are 17' and room is wide open on the right side of the photo. Large open floor plan. That is an 80" flat panel to give you some size perspective.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	LCR Subs Volts View 1.jpg
Views:	390
Size:	236.8 KB
ID:	2358862  
asarose247 and Vital like this.
Linkwitz Riley is offline  
post #14 of 18 Old 02-10-2018, 10:43 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Cam Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Tucson, AZ, Telluride, CO, & Los Angeles,CA, USA
Posts: 3,355
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 509 Post(s)
Liked: 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkwitz Riley View Post
Width of room is about 20'. Distance to MLP is 13', but room is open behind me for another 17' making total depth of 30'. Ceilings are 17' and room is wide open on the right side of the photo. Large open floor plan. That is an 80" flat panel to give you some size perspective.
Well, your photo certainly defines your expectations and priorities.

One step at a time....

Are you using any type of RTA to evaluate the LF acoustic response at your seats (spatial averaged)? Other than the imposing great aesthetic appearance, how do you know that the positions of your subs are optimal i.e. smooth/linear down to your desired bottom?

Is the room/space an open floor plan or of reasonably rectangular dimensions?
Cam Man is offline  
post #15 of 18 Old 02-10-2018, 11:10 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Cam Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Tucson, AZ, Telluride, CO, & Los Angeles,CA, USA
Posts: 3,355
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 509 Post(s)
Liked: 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkwitz Riley View Post
Width of room is about 20'. Distance to MLP is 13', but room is open behind me for another 17' making total depth of 30'. Ceilings are 17' and room is wide open on the right side of the photo. Large open floor plan. That is an 80" flat panel to give you some size perspective.
I would seriously consider three HTM-12s for your room. Use a stand to raise the center HTM-12 off the floor.
Move your TV up to accomodate the center HTM-12 height (probably a foot or so). Move the two units on each side of your 88 Special out to the tower subs, and use them for stands for HTM-12s as your L/R mains. Run xt32 again...which will get rid of any floor boundary effect that may occur for the center, room correct all three, and dial in your crossovers and LF response. Xt32 will likely say that the HTM-12 crosses at 40Hz. Don't believe it or accept it. Change it to 60Hz. You have tons of sub capability to utilize bass management for the HTM-12s and not lose an ounce of impact. The benefit of identical LCRs would be a big plus.

You would need to toe in the L/R HTM-12s a little if you are to cover two or more seats smoothly at 13'. The vertical dispersion of the HTM-12 is such that you would not need to tilt/aim in this scenario. At 13', even in that large room, the 15" of the Fusion-15 is not needed, but there's nothing wrong with going with it. It's just bigger and tougher to fit in your area if trying to use identical LCRs...which is a highly worthy goal, and you have a much better shot at it than me.
Cam Man is offline  
post #16 of 18 Old 02-10-2018, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Linkwitz Riley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 39
So from the photo and my original post, what do you think my expectations and priorities are?

It is a Great Room with no flexibility for any additional placements. Fireplace to the left, switchback staircase to the right, kitchen/dining area behind. Just a big open floorplan. My situation is that I have tried ported JTR captivators to fill the space and used SVS but it comes down to the fact that I am one of those people who seem to like the sound of sealed subs better for critical music listening (just my personal preference). In order to fill a large open space I just added more sealed drivers and 10K watts of external amplification and built a Linkwitz transform circuit to achieve some deep bass to try to fill the space with minimal room gain assistance. I have a USB microphone and have done some REW measurements but I am no expert and the graphs appeared to be fairly smooth (also have an anti mode 8033) and I'm pretty happy with the sound.
I just realized that because this room will never be as good as a dedicated theater/music room, I would like to simplify it by going the rest of the way with the high efficiency DIY speakers which would help me eliminate a lot of additional electronics (XOs, EQs, pro amp interfaces), the midbass modules (and Crown amp), the current L & R mains (and Emotiva monoblocks), etc. and also either install Speaker Power amps in the subs or get self powered subs (JTR S2s?) to further eliminate 2 external sub amps which hang from the ceiling in my basement to keep the fan noise out of the room.

Last edited by Linkwitz Riley; 02-10-2018 at 11:44 AM.
Linkwitz Riley is offline  
post #17 of 18 Old 02-10-2018, 04:47 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 224
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 89 Post(s)
Liked: 88
I think the question comes down to how much you enjoy building speakers. If building a third matching Fusion 15 is worth it from a money and time perspective then go for replacing the 88. But if you don't enjoy building and you want to spend the money on something else then there really is no reason to replace the 88. It sounds like you have been happy with the 88 and your existing VMPS LR so having the center and LR mismatched hasn't been a huge issue. The Fusion 15s and 88 Special will sound much closer since they are incredibly similar from a parts and crossover perspective. They both share the DNA-360 with the 15" waveguide and a crossover of 1000 and 950 Hz respectively. Yes the Fusion 15 can dig deeper, but if you are still crossing to subs anywhere from 80 to 120Hz you won't use the extra midbass.
bitmap42 is offline  
post #18 of 18 Old 02-11-2018, 11:51 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Cam Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Tucson, AZ, Telluride, CO, & Los Angeles,CA, USA
Posts: 3,355
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 509 Post(s)
Liked: 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkwitz Riley View Post
So from the photo and my original post, what do you think my expectations and priorities are?

It is a Great Room with no flexibility for any additional placements. Fireplace to the left, switchback staircase to the right, kitchen/dining area behind. Just a big open floorplan. My situation is that I have tried ported JTR captivators to fill the space and used SVS but it comes down to the fact that I am one of those people who seem to like the sound of sealed subs better for critical music listening (just my personal preference). In order to fill a large open space I just added more sealed drivers and 10K watts of external amplification and built a Linkwitz transform circuit to achieve some deep bass to try to fill the space with minimal room gain assistance. I have a USB microphone and have done some REW measurements but I am no expert and the graphs appeared to be fairly smooth (also have an anti mode 8033) and I'm pretty happy with the sound.
I just realized that because this room will never be as good as a dedicated theater/music room, I would like to simplify it by going the rest of the way with the high efficiency DIY speakers which would help me eliminate a lot of additional electronics (XOs, EQs, pro amp interfaces), the midbass modules (and Crown amp), the current L & R mains (and Emotiva monoblocks), etc. and also either install Speaker Power amps in the subs or get self powered subs (JTR S2s?) to further eliminate 2 external sub amps which hang from the ceiling in my basement to keep the fan noise out of the room.
I'd guess from the look of your wall that your priorities are massive bass and spl...or massive headroom if you don't listen at high spl.

I empathize on your lack of flexibility for additional placements. I also empathize with the fact that the open floor plan makes it impossible to calculate LF acoustic modes in the area. In rooms like yours and mine, finding what works for LF acoustic response requires experimentation. It was quite an odyssey for mine.

Either your sub locations and seating location are acoustically friendly or they are not. Since we cannot use the dimensions of the rooms to calculate locations that are friendly, we have a tougher job...especially since there is nowhere else to put things. Or is there?

If your sub and seating locations coincidentally result in something really bad in the LFE region, then no amount of subwoofer, electronics (EQ), or money will overcome the physics. Here is a real-world example. In my room you see that the L/R speaker compartments have two compartments each. The lower one on each side was designed to accommodate a large subwoofer. I fired it all up...and was never satisfied. I got hold of good RTA (and training at THX and HAA) and verified why I wasn't satisfied. There was a huge node (dip) centered at 43Hz about half an octave wide! Since I couldn't significantly move seating or subs at the time, I tried something else. I added additional subs in the room in hopes of "filling" the node. It didn't work, and it got subs too close to seating (distracting).

This was about ten years ago. Then a breakthrough came. Our old Pioneer RPTV failed, and I converted the large opening to accommodate a flat panel TV. I suddenly realized that I had a lot of unused space in that TV compartment. I moved subs into there on a lark to experiment. Bingo! That simple two foot move toward each other away from their original location put them in in an acoustically friendly location. I now only had smaller variations in uncorrected LF response. That you can correct with EQ/room correction technology. I use the latest version Audyssey for room correction. There are actually four large subs crammed in there with about 2Kw of power. Since they are equidistant from the MLP, Audyssey doesn't even need to run as two separate subs. It sees them as one sub. My response is linear down to whatever I want it to be...but I only use down to 25Hz or so.

My point is that physics rule in the field of small room LF acoustics. Nothing we think or even WAF can change that. If you are lucky that those locations and your seating are good acoustically, then you are in heaven with room correction to have foundation and window busting LF with that gear. If those locations are not, then maybe you can find a way. REW should easily show you that with spatial averaging measurements around your seating. Use the same mic locations you use for room correction and vice versa.

Your happiness is what matters, but peace of mind via verification is really nice gravy to have.
erwinfrombelgium likes this.
Cam Man is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off