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post #1 of 46 Old 02-08-2018, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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DIY Subwoofer Advice

Some of the below is copied from the Subwoofer forum...

Hello all, and thanks in advance for the advice!

My current HT is a mixed use space, rather large, and lacking punch. First, the room. Carpet over concrete basement, with painted wood paneling instead of sheetrock. Dimensions are 13' x 31' with the TV and fronts on the 13' wall closest to the entrance, and the surrounds mounted on the side walls about 15' back, just behind the couch and to the sides. Towards the back of the room, which is used for my drums, a craft table for wife and kids, there is a cased opening into my office and computer space space that is about 13' x 10' more. The ceilings are 8' so all in all I have just under 4400 cu. ft. of volume in the space.

I have a Denon X4400 running 5.1 With AV123 Rocket 750 Fronts, the Bigfoot Center, and then I have 2 B&W satellites pulling surround duty. My current sub is a 10" UFW from AV123 as well, which is a 10" Sealed sub. I am planning on keeping the speakers, but I plan on adding some height channels. I am also planning on changing out my older 50" Plasma screen with a 120" - 135" screen, and Projector. My plan is also to flip the room, so when you walk in there is the drums, and craft area, and towards the back of the room would be the HT. This is important because it will now be adjacent to the cased opening of my office. I would be willing to frame out and install a door there, dropping my space to about 3300 cu. ft.

1/3 Movies
1/3 Gaming
1/3 Music

My thoughts are leading me towards DIYing the Subwoofer.

Thoughts on the Dayton UM 18-22 driver, in a 4' cu.ft. sealed box, and iNuke, with the possibility of adding another? Any appropriate ported kits that would go better with the size of my room? What about 1 or 2 15" driver subs?

Thanks!

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post #2 of 46 Old 02-08-2018, 03:00 PM
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I recommend an acoustic transparent screen. You can diy a nice one for fairly cheap. You can also purchase one for a reasonable price from silver ticket products. Acoustic screens have a lot of advantages when it comes to home theater and sound. At 130" having a center channel in the middle of the screen makes a huge difference.

You can also use it as a place to hide subwoofers if you want. You can do much better then a sealed 18. Like a ported marty sub for example.

I understand not everyone wants screen walls, but it really is the way to go with home theaters and projectors.

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post #3 of 46 Old 02-09-2018, 03:32 AM
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Can you put infinite baffle in the wall that adjoins to your 10x13 computer space using the 10x13 computer room as your "box"?

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post #4 of 46 Old 02-09-2018, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Can you put infinite baffle in the wall that adjoins to your 10x13 computer space using the 10x13 computer room as your "box"?
I could...I am not too well versed in IB however. Anyone have a link to a good reference on that?
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post #5 of 46 Old 02-09-2018, 04:48 PM
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IB's tend to lack punch because their tuning is near 1Hz.
You'd ve better off with a B&C 21 ported to whatever, or a pair of PA-460's on the cheap end.

90% of movies and music is above 30hz.
Chasing single digits gets expensive quick.
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post #6 of 46 Old 02-09-2018, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
IB's tend to lack punch because their tuning is near 1Hz.
You'd ve better off with a B&C 21 ported to whatever, or a pair of PA-460's on the cheap end.

90% of movies and music is above 30hz.
Chasing single digits gets expensive quick.
This is mis-information. Infinite baffes don't have "tuning". They will generally run near the speaker's natural resonation range. You'd want a speaker made for infinite baffle such as the FI IB3, and you get plenty of punch. What you don't get from an IB install is that horrible cheap sounding boomy bass. Perhaps you consider that "punch".

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post #7 of 46 Old 02-10-2018, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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My thoughts were leading me to 2x 18" sealed kits from parts Express. I have a sealed 10" now...so I am thinking that would be a huge upgrade for me, and 2 of them powered by an iNuke 3000 should be plenty of power?

An IB layout for my plans may be a bit problematic, but that does not mean off the table.

I want tight, articulate, and impressive bass for music AND movies. The only fear I have with IB or Ported is not knowing enough about it, and getting a resulting bad sound. Vented would surely give me incredible results, but I don't know anything about tuning ports, etc.
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post #8 of 46 Old 02-10-2018, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
IB's tend to lack punch because their tuning is near 1Hz.
You'd ve better off with a B&C 21 ported to whatever, or a pair of PA-460's on the cheap end.

90% of movies and music is above 30hz.
Chasing single digits gets expensive quick.

This is mis-information. Infinite baffes don't have "tuning". They will generally run near the speaker's natural resonation range. You'd want a speaker made for infinite baffle such as the FI IB3, and you get plenty of punch. What you don't get from an IB install is that horrible cheap sounding boomy bass. Perhaps you consider that "punch".
Obviously you haven't seen his system
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post #9 of 46 Old 02-10-2018, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsparky View Post
My thoughts were leading me to 2x 18" sealed kits from parts Express. I have a sealed 10" now...so I am thinking that would be a huge upgrade for me, and 2 of them powered by an iNuke 3000 should be plenty of power?

An IB layout for my plans may be a bit problematic, but that does not mean off the table.

I want tight, articulate, and impressive bass for music AND movies. The only fear I have with IB or Ported is not knowing enough about it, and getting a resulting bad sound. Vented would surely give me incredible results, but I don't know anything about tuning ports, etc.
You might consider an Inuke 6000 DSP if you're going to run two sealed. A 3000 will be underpowered.

IMHO
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post #10 of 46 Old 03-14-2018, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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OK so a small update!

I have started a small construction project on running power and cabling to my theater wall, and have purchased a Epson 5040ub and a Silver Ticket 120" AT screen.

I have also just clicked to purchase 2xUM18-22 with flatpack kits, and an iNuke6000DSP.

Let the fun begin!!!

Question, I decided to run 2 20 Amp circuits to my equipment rack. This will run everything from Receiver, Projector, XB1X, and some sources, as well as the iNuke. I am assuming I have plenty of headroom here. Any concerns?

Thanks!
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post #11 of 46 Old 03-14-2018, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsparky View Post
OK so a small update!



I have started a small construction project on running power and cabling to my theater wall, and have purchased a Epson 5040ub and a Silver Ticket 120" AT screen.



I have also just clicked to purchase 2xUM18-22 with flatpack kits, and an iNuke6000DSP.



Let the fun begin!!!



Question, I decided to run 2 20 Amp circuits to my equipment rack. This will run everything from Receiver, Projector, XB1X, and some sources, as well as the iNuke. I am assuming I have plenty of headroom here. Any concerns?



Thanks!


If it was me, and hopefully it will be soon, I would run 2x 30amp circuits and one 20amp for future upgrades/updates. Also on the 20amp line, if you live in an area that has a lot of thunderstorms, you should strongly consider an UPS to cover everything but your amplifiers (the amps draw too much current to use the UPS). Run the 6KDSP on the 30amp line. It’s not much more money to run twin 30 amp lines and an additional 20 amp line compared to 2x 20amp lines. Better to future proof now than later. You won’t regret it!


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post #12 of 46 Old 03-14-2018, 10:14 AM
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If it was me, and hopefully it will be soon, I would run 2x 30amp circuits and one 20amp for future upgrades/updates.
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You beat me to it. I went with 3 30a and 1 20a lines

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post #13 of 46 Old 03-15-2018, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Hmm. So I have already run #12 wire...2 separate runs. I don't even know if I have room left in my Breaker box for a 30A.

I was thinking the iNuke would be fine on one 20A circuit, and everything else on the other. If I have room I will get some #10 wire and run a third 30A circuit. I guess overkill never hurt anyone...

Thanks!!!
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post #14 of 46 Old 03-15-2018, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by cjsparky View Post
I was thinking the iNuke would be fine on one 20A circuit, and everything else on the other.
Thanks!!!
That's because you haven't fallen down the rabbit hole yet
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DIY Subwoofer Advice

I ended up with two 30A and one 20A for inukes, and one 20A for everything else. I had to upgrade my main panel to fit extra circuits, but I’m so happy I did. While I was popping breakers with 8 inukes, it was explained to me that even if you don’t trip a breaker, your line still can suffer from voltage sag and you’ll get early clipping in the inukes. I hear/feel a nice difference now. Just another 2cents. At my gtg last weekend we played bass scenes at +6 and couldn’t cause any issues other then my home crumbling apart. Lol
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post #16 of 46 Old 03-15-2018, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsparky View Post
Hmm. So I have already run #12 wire...2 separate runs. I don't even know if I have room left in my Breaker box for a 30A.

I was thinking the iNuke would be fine on one 20A circuit, and everything else on the other. If I have room I will get some #10 wire and run a third 30A circuit. I guess overkill never hurt anyone...

Thanks!!!

Run the wire now, while it's easy / cheap. You can worry about upgrading outlets/ breaker box later. Cheap insurance.

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Run the wire now, while it's easy / cheap. You can worry about upgrading outlets/ breaker box later. Cheap insurance.


+1 ^^^^^^^^^


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post #18 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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So as luck would have it, I noticed that the Dayton Drivers are delayed even more. This time the estimated delivery is in May.

I called and discussed options. Was thinking of going with the 460 Reference drivers, as they are expected in 2 weeks instead of 2 months, OR just cancelling my order, sending the iNuke back, and increasing my budget for a Rythmik ported 18" sub.

Any advice?
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The FV18 is $1700 Are you open to used subwoofers. There's a great deal in the classifieds for a used HST18 @bear123 . You could build a 11cuft ported cab and it should best that FV18 and save you some coin
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The FV18 is $1700 Are you open to used subwoofers. There's a great deal in the classifieds for a used HST18 @bear123 . You could build a 11cuft ported cab and it should best that FV18 and save you some coin
Real estate in my room is at a premium. I need to keep the size down to either 2 sealed 18" or something about the size of the FV 18, and lay it on it's side.
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Real estate in my room is at a premium. I need to keep the size down to either 2 sealed 18" or something about the size of the FV 18, and lay it on it's side.
Can you post a picture and dimensions of your room and the location you have set aside for the subwoofer?

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Can you post a picture and dimensions of your room and the location you have set aside for the subwoofer?
This is the best I have from work. The room is 13 feet wide by roughly 40 feet long, but the HT is dedicated to a 13 x 16 space shown in this picture attached.



The space I have for the sub(s) are on either side of my media shelfs located directly below my screen. The screen is about 25" from the floor, and I have about 2.5 feet of side to side before I hit my L or R channel.

I could easily fit the planned 2 x 18" Sealed DIY subs, OR 1 ported 18" sub on its side. The Rhythmic is Class D so there is no issue with turning on its side for cooling.

I know predetermining the Sub locations is not ideal, but it is what it is...unless I am sitting in a giant void, and then I will figure something else out.
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Originally Posted by cjsparky View Post
So as luck would have it, I noticed that the Dayton Drivers are delayed even more. This time the estimated delivery is in May.

I called and discussed options. Was thinking of going with the 460 Reference drivers, as they are expected in 2 weeks instead of 2 months, OR just cancelling my order, sending the iNuke back, and increasing my budget for a Rythmik ported 18" sub.

Any advice?
The wait will be worth it. There is a reason they keep selling out. I say wire everything for sound, get the rest done while waiting. They'll be at your doorstep before you know it.

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post #24 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cjsparky View Post
This is the best I have from work. The room is 13 feet wide by roughly 40 feet long, but the HT is dedicated to a 13 x 16 space shown in this picture attached.



The space I have for the sub(s) are on either side of my media shelfs located directly below my screen. The screen is about 25" from the floor, and I have about 2.5 feet of side to side before I hit my L or R channel.

I could easily fit the planned 2 x 18" Sealed DIY subs, OR 1 ported 18" sub on its side. The Rhythmic is Class D so there is no issue with turning on its side for cooling.

I know predetermining the Sub locations is not ideal, but it is what it is...unless I am sitting in a giant void, and then I will figure something else out.
That's tough man. How wide with the screen be? If you have the 2.5 feet floor to ceiling then you're good; you can always build upward.

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post #25 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 09:11 AM
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Check out this thread, there are some good suggestions for an UM 18 replacement, like PSI and FI Car Audio.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...ternative.html
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post #26 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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That's tough man. How wide with the screen be? If you have the 2.5 feet floor to ceiling then you're good; you can always build upward.
Screen is 111" wide. a 16x9 120" diagonal AT screen from Silver Ticket. It is up, and I have 3.1 running now with my old 10" Rocket UFW sub. I have room for 2 18" sealed OR 1 18" Ported...so there are worse problems to have...lol
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post #27 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 11:20 AM
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Is there any room behind your screen? If all else fails, you could build the ported cab horizontally with the sub facing in the room instead of vertical.
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Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
Video Image: JVC RS500- Sony UBP-800X- Chromecast- 125" wide 16x9 white over black spandex screen
Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 MOFO 15s in 2 dual ported cabs 17Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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post #28 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 12:19 PM
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Ummm... the subs don't have to be up front. The 27 feet behind you is used by the sub(s) anyway, so why not reduce room modes, and place one sub at 1/4, 1/3, or 1/2 room depth?

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post #29 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 01:06 PM
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I hope you get some good curtains!

So are you doing an inwall center? You can hide the Left and Right behind the screen too if thats the idea.

Is there a wall behind that picture that the couch will go against (behind the projector?)?. You could build something that goes behind the couch and get the nearfield experience at the same time. Would probably only need 2 15's near field to really rock out lol. Honestly Alpine type s and type r make good home theater subs in the right box. Plenty of xmax and power handling. Some pictures or a drawing of the floor layout would help more.

- 6 BA CR6 array center channel, QSC AD-S82 L/R, 4 jbl 8330a surr , 8 jbl 12" subs w/Inuke 6000. JVC rs420, Denon x4000, Sony x800 -
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post #30 of 46 Old 03-27-2018, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trilkb View Post
I hope you get some good curtains!

So are you doing an inwall center? You can hide the Left and Right behind the screen too if thats the idea.

Is there a wall behind that picture that the couch will go against (behind the projector?)?. You could build something that goes behind the couch and get the nearfield experience at the same time. Would probably only need 2 15's near field to really rock out lol. Honestly Alpine type s and type r make good home theater subs in the right box. Plenty of xmax and power handling. Some pictures or a drawing of the floor layout would help more.
No in wall speakers yet, but the only ones will be side surrounds. The Center channel is mounted on a shelf behind the screen.
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