How do you properly level match subs with 2 inuke 6000dsp - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 23 Old 03-17-2018, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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How do you properly level match subs with 2 inuke 6000dsp

Hello, i have 2 iNuke 6000dsps, each is running a pair of 15 Ultimax in sealed boxes in 4 Ohms (1 sub per channel). The way my system is i have all 4 subs in the front, 1 pair on each side of the center speaker. The 2 on each side are pretty much connected, much like a Seaton F2 for example.

When I play content, the bass seems to be louder from the right than the left. Do i just use the knobs on the front of the amp to level match or is there somewhere else i should go? I will probably use REW to do that as i believe there is an SPL meter in it. Right now in the iNukes i have all the power settings the same with no type of DSP set up. Just the power and phase are matched at 180.

Any help is appreciated. I am new to all of this so please be kind. Lol.

Thanks,
Dan

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post #2 of 23 Old 03-17-2018, 02:46 PM
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Make sure the cones are in-phase, this can be tested with a 9V battery or by place the subs cone to cone and playing 25hz sinewave at low spl.
The sound shouldn't cancel if they are in-phase, and with the battery both cones should move in the same direction based on polarity of the battery to the terminals.

If not, then check the wiring or invert it if need be (physically or in the inuke software).

Beyond that, check the inuke input and output levels, make sure they are both reading the same in/out.

and beyond that, you must be sitting in a null for one of the subs, one solution would be to stack them (possibly in the closest corner to your seats).
Subs are highly placement dependent, you can't just plop them anywhere, every room is different so you'll have to find the 1 or 2 best spots for yourself.

One way to find the best spots is to place the sub at ear level at the seat, and walk a umik-1 around running REW measurement sweeps to see which location measures best and put each sub in the 1 or 2 best locations.

Another trick that "might" work is pointing the cones towards the walls and/or corner, 1-4inches away should be enough.
Bass doesn't like to be away from walls and corners, more or less...

Some rooms can be pretty bad, you may need 4 subs to smooth it out, or just go with a single 24 in the best spot. Or you can try to beat the room into submission with 8 18's. It just depends...

The inuke's also have a delay adjustment, you could try playing with that in combination with the phase. (Whatever works...)

Owning a measurement mic is kind of critical for some rooms, otherwise you are just guessing.
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post #3 of 23 Old 03-17-2018, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I will try that and see. I can’t physically move the subs. They are were they are unfortunately. Whether it is the best spot or not they won’t change from there. So I have to make do. Which is why I got the iNukes to hopefully help out.

So there isn’t a spot in the amps software that I can lower or raise the level or something? The out knobs all match and from what I read they should. As well as the power (-3) for them. There isn’t any other gain to raise the volume a bit for that particular amp or anything? Maybe I am using the wrong terms or wording. I am new to the iNukes and have no idea how to work them properly yet.

When you level match 2 regular self powered subs you adjust the gain or volume or whatever. Is there a way to do that with the iNukes?

I will try what you recommended regarding the phase. That could definitely help. I will give anything a shot really.


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post #4 of 23 Old 03-17-2018, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I do have the Omni mic and I am planning on using REW but it probably won’t be for a while. So right now I just want to level them so they work for the time being. I can very well be in a null for one of the pairs. I have the dsp settings off as I am not using them.


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post #5 of 23 Old 03-18-2018, 09:30 AM
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That can be done in the inuke software, it's just before the EQ tabs if I recall.

You'll want to lower the SPL of the louder sub, increasing a quieter sub that is sitting in a null won't work.
No amount of DSP can fix a null, you can only reduce the peaks so that it is flatter-ish.
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post #6 of 23 Old 03-18-2018, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Perfect thank you. I will try that. I appreciate it. I will check out the software again. I assume it will be labelled gain. Maybe I missed it.

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post #7 of 23 Old 03-18-2018, 10:28 AM
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This may or may not help but it is still a fairly easy walk thru to set your amps up.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...amp-gains.html

This is another method that I use for my sub amps it may not work like you want it depends on your AVR. First I set the Sub trim level on the amp to zero turn the gain knobs on the front panel of the amp fully CCW. Play a test tone from your AVR ( if your mic can read SPL measurements great ) once you have the test tone on slowly turn the gain knobs on your amp until you get the desired level ( its up to you some say 75 or 80 or 85 etc. do this for both amps. As an example if you set both amps at 80db when played together they will sum and the SPL will increase by 5-6db now you can go back to the trim level on your AVR and adjust it to a lower level whether you bring it down to 80 or 75 its your ears. This will give you a base line, if you do not have enough bass you can go to your AVR and adjust the trim to your liking. You will also find some material sound better then others. With my set up some older movies I can turn the volume up past ref. and its till reasonable however for example Hacksaw Ridge I have to turn the trim level down 2db and have the volume at -8 and that is almost too much. Now of course BTH must be deaf considering the levels he play his system!!
Hope its somewhat helpful.

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post #8 of 23 Old 03-18-2018, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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That is helpful thank you. As far as I understand though the front knobs on the Inuke are not gain knobs but attenuation or something??? Regarding the input signal from the receiver. That’s how I understood it.

That being said what you said to level match does make sense. I will take a look at the Inuke software and read that thread you quoted. Thank you.
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post #9 of 23 Old 03-18-2018, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
Hello, i have 2 iNuke 6000dsps, each is running a pair of 15 Ultimax in sealed boxes in 4 Ohms (1 sub per channel). The way my system is i have all 4 subs in the front, 1 pair on each side of the center speaker. The 2 on each side are pretty much connected, much like a Seaton F2 for example.

When I play content, the bass seems to be louder from the right than the left. Do i just use the knobs on the front of the amp to level match or is there somewhere else i should go? I will probably use REW to do that as i believe there is an SPL meter in it. Right now in the iNukes i have all the power settings the same with no type of DSP set up. Just the power and phase are matched at 180.

Any help is appreciated. I am new to all of this so please be kind. Lol.

Thanks,
Dan

Some things to do first:


1. Swap the speaker cables at the amps. If the sound difference switches sides, it's amp related.
2. If it sounds the same, swap the cables at the speaker end. If the sound difference switches sides, it's cable related.
3. If it still sounds the same, swap subwoofer locations. If the sound difference switches sides, it's sub/box related.
4. If it still sounds the same after all of the above, it's room related

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post #10 of 23 Old 03-18-2018, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
That is helpful thank you. As far as I understand though the front knobs on the Inuke are not gain knobs but attenuation or something??? Regarding the input signal from the receiver. That’s how I understood it.

That being said what you said to level match does make sense. I will take a look at the Inuke software and read that thread you quoted. Thank you.
You are correct they are attenuation knobs but some call them gain others call them volume regardless those are the 2 knobs on the front of the amp. Have you downloaded the software for the amps?? If you have and your confused join the club but once you get the hang of it its pretty easy. The way I wrote on how I do the level matching seemed the easiest to me I read this thread quite awhile ago and saved it.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-amp-gain.html

start with post#23 I found this was pretty helpful and the way I adjust is pretty much the way it was suggested in this thread.

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Here's a great tip that I use for my iNukes. I have both my physical knobs set to full clockwise. I then set the amp's volume using the input gain adjustment within the software.

This is great because if anybody (like kids) ever fiddles with the knobs, all you have to do is set them back to full clockwise and you're good to go. That and it is impossible to turn them up too loud using the front panel knobs if you control the amp's volume internally with both knobs pre-set to full clockwise.

If you aren't using the software, definitely use it. It's much easier to see what you're doing with the graphical interface.
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post #12 of 23 Old 03-19-2018, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlw2 View Post
Here's a great tip that I use for my iNukes. I have both my physical knobs set to full clockwise. I then set the amp's volume using the input gain adjustment within the software.

This is great because if anybody (like kids) ever fiddles with the knobs, all you have to do is set them back to full clockwise and you're good to go. That and it is impossible to turn them up too loud using the front panel knobs if you control the amp's volume internally with both knobs pre-set to full clockwise.

If you aren't using the software, definitely use it. It's much easier to see what you're doing with the graphical interface.
I am not an expert but just going by what I have read it seems that maxing out the front panel knobs and then adjust using the AVR seems simple enough and it does prevent someone from messing up the system however if you read this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-amp-gain.html at least to me it seems there is a greater potential for problems if your not careful. Not always but sometimes if you come up with a way to solve a problem sure its easy and quick but is it right?

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post #13 of 23 Old 03-19-2018, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cichlid109 View Post
I am not an expert but just going by what I have read it seems that maxing out the front panel knobs and then adjust using the AVR seems simple enough and it does prevent someone from messing up the system however if you read this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-amp-gain.html at least to me it seems there is a greater potential for problems if your not careful. Not always but sometimes if you come up with a way to solve a problem sure its easy and quick but is it right?
I read maybe a third way into that thread, and with a standard amp, I would probably agree. If all I had were knobs on the front, I would be less likely to be able to get the receiver to send an appropriate output level on the Sub output. But since the iNukeDSP has the PEQ functionality complete with software gain knobs, I can safely run the physical knobs full clockwise while being able to control the input level via both the amp's built-in "soft gain knobs" and my AVR's Sub Out adjustment.

I've been doing it this way for about 4 years now, and when the amp is on with no input signal present, my subs are dead quiet. Of course, once an input signal presents itself... walls shake, the kids get scared, my wife gets angry, and I know I've done my job.
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post #14 of 23 Old 03-19-2018, 07:17 AM
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To answer the reason for not going over 0 on your sub out trim in your receiver/pre-amp this is to prevent clipping the sub out with redirected bass from any speakers in the system set to small.
With the main volume above say - 15 it becomes easy to overload the sub out because of the potential for 5-13 speakers all sending everything under their set crossover to the sub out. It is highly advisable to start with your sub trim in your receiver/pre-amp deep into the negative between - 10 and - 8, this leaves some headroom for all the redirected bass as well as huge transients.
There is even a method to trick Audyssey/ARC into setting the sub trim deep into the negative trim by setting the subs gain to read between 80-90db before running the the sweeps instead of the 75db the room correction ask you to, this forces the RC to try and correct for the excess gain level by lowering the sub trim. Since level and distance are set from the first mic position you can just measure the first mic position several times adjusting your sub gain until Audyssey/ARC returns a sub trim of between - 8 or - 11. Just be sure to not go beyond 1db from the max negative trim. So if the max negative trim is - 12 shoot for
- 11, this is so you can remain calibrated to a known level. If the RC maxes out you will not know the true level after calibration.

If you find the bass too weak after the RC is finished then use the subs gain to raise the level and leave the sub trim alone at - 10 or - 11, if you then run out of sub gain and only then should you raise the sub trim level in the receiver/pre-amp above - 10.
If you find the bass too hot after the RC just lower the subs gain a bit.


Though not on or off topic I thought this would be a good read for the OP or anyone new to the Inuke Dsp 3k or 6k. Even though the DUT in this thread is a 6k, the 6k is just 2 3k's in one chassis with a larger power supply so all of the Dsp tests applies to both. The 6k is good for around 1100-1200watts per ch. and a bridged 3k is good for 1800-2000watts mono and this is due to the 6k power supply not being double the size of the 3k.
There are a lot of great DSP tricks as well as how to make the amp flat to 10hz as well as how to correct for entire LFE signal chain roll-off with a negative gain HS filter.
I recommend that anyone who owns an Inuke read this entire thread.

As for the gain in the software it is in the crossover tab and is adjustable from + or - 15db.
This gain knob is for the Dsp gain and must be used smartly depending on the type of filters being used and how the front knobs are set. It is common to run the front knobs at a full 20 clicks though not always necessary.
As has been mentioned already the front knobs are attenuators and anything other than the full 20 clicks or wide open is cutting some of the signal strength from your receiver/pre-amp.
What you don't want to do is run the front knobs low and the dsp gain too high as this can lead to DSP clipping and will affect dynamics and could lead to clipping.
Though not written in stone it is a good rule of thumb not to exceed +6db in the Dsp gain in the software unless you have used a large negative gain HS filter to extend a highpass filter or correct a steep signal chain roll-off that you need to correct the signal level for. In that case you can adjust the Dsp gain in the software to plus the same amount of + db as the HS filter has - db gain.

Here is the Inuke Rundown Thread.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2911854

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post #15 of 23 Old 03-19-2018, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cichlid109 View Post
You are correct they are attenuation knobs but some call them gain others call them volume regardless those are the 2 knobs on the front of the amp. Have you downloaded the software for the amps?? If you have and your confused join the club but once you get the hang of it its pretty easy. The way I wrote on how I do the level matching seemed the easiest to me I read this thread quite awhile ago and saved it.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-amp-gain.html

start with post#23 I found this was pretty helpful and the way I adjust is pretty much the way it was suggested in this thread.
Thank you, I will read that thread. I need all the info I can get. I do have the software but i haven't played with it yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by danlw2 View Post
Here's a great tip that I use for my iNukes. I have both my physical knobs set to full clockwise. I then set the amp's volume using the input gain adjustment within the software.

This is great because if anybody (like kids) ever fiddles with the knobs, all you have to do is set them back to full clockwise and you're good to go. That and it is impossible to turn them up too loud using the front panel knobs if you control the amp's volume internally with both knobs pre-set to full clockwise.

If you aren't using the software, definitely use it. It's much easier to see what you're doing with the graphical interface.

I do have the software, and this is essentially how I thought i should do it. Basically the front knobs all the way clockwise, within my receiver (Anthem MRX720) the sub gain right now is at 0, but maybe i should lower it a bit more (what should it be, maybe -5 to -10), then go within the iNuke's software into each amp and adjust the gain there until both subs match at about 75-80db. Is it the knob within the software on tab 2 (Filter/crossover) where it obviously says gain? lol I ask because i remember seeing gain knobs in other parts of the software.

Quote:
Originally Posted by danlw2 View Post
I read maybe a third way into that thread, and with a standard amp, I would probably agree. If all I had were knobs on the front, I would be less likely to be able to get the receiver to send an appropriate output level on the Sub output. But since the iNukeDSP has the PEQ functionality complete with software gain knobs, I can safely run the physical knobs full clockwise while being able to control the input level via both the amp's built-in "soft gain knobs" and my AVR's Sub Out adjustment.

I've been doing it this way for about 4 years now, and when the amp is on with no input signal present, my subs are dead quiet. Of course, once an input signal presents itself... walls shake, the kids get scared, my wife gets angry, and I know I've done my job.

Lol, that's what i want now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by biga6761 View Post
To answer the reason for not going over 0 on your sub out trim in your receiver/pre-amp this is to prevent clipping the sub out with redirected bass from any speakers in the system set to small.
With the main volume above say - 15 it becomes easy to overload the sub out because of the potential for 5-13 speakers all sending everything under their set crossover to the sub out. It is highly advisable to start with your sub trim in your receiver/pre-amp deep into the negative between - 10 and - 8, this leaves some headroom for all the redirected bass as well as huge transients.
There is even a method to trick Audyssey/ARC into setting the sub trim deep into the negative trim by setting the subs gain to read between 80-90db before running the the sweeps instead of the 75db the room correction ask you to, this forces the RC to try and correct for the excess gain level by lowering the sub trim. Since level and distance are set from the first mic position you can just measure the first mic position several times adjusting your sub gain until Audyssey/ARC returns a sub trim of between - 8 or - 11. Just be sure to not go beyond 1db from the max negative trim. So if the max negative trim is - 12 shoot for
- 11, this is so you can remain calibrated to a known level. If the RC maxes out you will know know the true level after calibration.

If you find the bass too weak after the RC is finished then use the subs gain to raise the level and leave the sub trim alone at - 10 or - 11, if you then run out of sub gain and only then should you raise the sub trim level in the receiver/pre-amp above - 10.
If you find the bass too hot after the RC just lower the subs gain a bit.


Though not on or off topic I thought this would be a good read for the OP or anyone new to the Inuke Dsp 3k or 6k. Even though the DUT in this thread is a 6k, the 6k is just 2 3k's in one chassis with a larger power supply so all of the Dsp tests applies to both. The 6k is good for around 1100-1200watts per ch. and a bridged 3k is good for 1800-2000watts mono and this is due to the 6k power supply not being double the size of the 3k.
There are a lot of great DSP tricks as well as how to make the amp flat to 10hz as well as how to correct for entire LFE signal chain roll-out with a negative gain HS filter.
I recommend that anyone who owns an Inuke read this entire thread.

As for the gain in the software it is in the crossover tab and is adjustable from high or - high 15db.
This gain knob is for the Dsp gain and must be used smartly depending on the type of filters being used and how the front knobs are set. It is common to run the front knobs at a full 20 clicks though not always necessary.
As has been mentioned already the front knobs are attenuators and anything other than the full 20 clicks or wide open is cutting some of the signal strength from you receiver/pre-amp.
What you don't want to do is run the front knobs low and the dsp gain too high as this can lead to DSP clipping and will affect dynamics.
Though not written in stone it is a good rule of thumb not to exceed +6db in the Dsp gain unless you have used a large negative gain HS filter to extend a highpass filter or correct a steep signal chain roll-off that you need to correct the signal level for. In that case you can adjust the Dsp gain in the software to plus the same amount of + db as the HS filter has - db gain.

Here is the Inuke Rundown Thread.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2911854

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I have been in that thread and it is very informative. I continue to read it.


Also in regards to the input output voltage graph to the right of the software, I have to make sure that the input does not clip (get close to 0db on the graph) and that the output is close to clipping but not clipping. And I do this with the combination of the outer knobs, receiver (Anthem) internal sub gain (going to have to lower it when i get home), and the gain knob within the software while playing a bass heavy scene like the beginning of Edge of tomorrow or WOTW pod scene or HTTYD scene (never seen the movie before) correct? Does the wattage setting (Peak limiter) have anything to do with this as well? Right now I have mine at -4 i believe based on previous graphs and info i have gathered from other threads


Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get this right. I have read a lot of threads but there is sometimes conflicting information. Plus as of right now I am not use to some of the technical wording. Lol. But I hope to change that. For someone new to this it is over whelming. And I haven't even done REW yet. Lol


Thanks again for all the help. All of this will definitely help future users as well.

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post #16 of 23 Old 03-19-2018, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
Also in regards to the input output voltage graph to the right of the software, I have to make sure that the input does not clip (get close to 0db on the graph) and that the output is close to clipping but not clipping. And I do this with the combination of the outer knobs, receiver (Anthem) internal sub gain (going to have to lower it when i get home), and the gain knob within the software while playing a bass heavy scene like the beginning of Edge of tomorrow or WOTW pod scene or HTTYD scene (never seen the movie before) correct? Does the wattage setting (Peak limiter) have anything to do with this as well? Right now I have mine at -4 i believe based on previous graphs and info i have gathered from other threads
Input clipping shouldn't be an issue as long as your AVR sub trim is low and you aren't using a lot of EQ.

The output doesn't have to be close to clipping. How close it is to clipping really comes down to how much headroom your subs have. If it is clipping you need more sub or you need to lower the volume. If it isn't clipping even on the most demanding scenes at the volume you want to be at, then you have enough sub. Note that "output clipping" in this case is actually just hitting the limiter, not really clipping in the normal sense.
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post #17 of 23 Old 03-19-2018, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info aron7awol. So i have tried to adjust the input/output.

What i did was disconnect the subs, and speakers. I put the receiver's volume at the max that i think i would ever listen at, and most likely will never listen at but whatever, which is -15. I put the subs gain within the receiver at -10. I then played the WOTW pod scene over and over and over and over looking at the input/output graph and making adjustments. So what i have come up with is if i am 1 notch away from full clockwise on the inuke's outer knobs, the input stage never seems to clip. Looks like it comes close but doesn't clip. Then i adjusted the gain on the software (crossover tab) until it hit the limiter for brief second on the pod scene, which was -0.5. Is this all correct. So essentially it should not be hitting the limiter? How close do i want it to the limiter? I haven't actually level matched them yet, but at least if i know that this is correct then its a start for me. I also selected the Bypass button on the Parametric EQ tab to disable any kind of EQ. My ARC is also off within my receiver.

Thanks again for all the help guys. I know it can get annoying repeated similar solutions, but it is greatly appreciated.

BTW, i mentioned in another inuke thread about the fans on my 2 6000dsps being silent when i turned them on. People mentioned that after some use they ramp up speed and make noise. Well as of right now, after playing the POD scene with the above settings for about 30 minutes over and over again, the fans are still quiet. They have not gotten any louder at all. Maybe i just haven't run them hard enough yet, but as of right now i have zero need for any kind of fan mod.

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post #18 of 23 Old 03-19-2018, 08:43 PM
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Thanks for the info aron7awol. So i have tried to adjust the input/output.

What i did was disconnect the subs, and speakers. I put the receiver's volume at the max that i think i would ever listen at, and most likely will never listen at but whatever, which is -15. I put the subs gain within the receiver at -10. I then played the WOTW pod scene over and over and over and over looking at the input/output graph and making adjustments. So what i have come up with is if i am 1 notch away from full clockwise on the inuke's outer knobs, the input stage never seems to clip. Looks like it comes close but doesn't clip. Then i adjusted the gain on the software (crossover tab) until it hit the limiter for brief second on the pod scene, which was -0.5. Is this all correct. So essentially it should not be hitting the limiter? How close do i want it to the limiter? I haven't actually level matched them yet, but at least if i know that this is correct then its a start for me. I also selected the Bypass button on the Parametric EQ tab to disable any kind of EQ. My ARC is also off within my receiver
What you're missing in this whole thing is actually setting the sub levels to what you want relative to the other speakers, whether that's equal, or some amount hot. What you learned is that with your sub trim set to -10, and DSP gain set to zero, you have headroom to increase the gain knobs almost all the way up. However, it is likely that you don't actually want/need the gain knobs turned that high.

Does your AVR have a calibration function? You can use that to level match and calibrate to reference, then adjust the gain knobs up after if you want your subs hot. Otherwise, just get REW going already

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I know, I need to get REW up and running. I want to have enough time to go through that properly, which I don't have right now. I have maybe 30 minutes here and there a day to possibly do this stuff. I want to give REW the time it deserves. Lol.


I do like to run my subs hot. So now when I watch a movie at my regular listening levels, is it better to increase the gain through the AVR or through the iNuke software to where I like it? I would assume through the AVR.


At least this is almost done. Just have to match their level with REW's SPL meter.


My receiver (Anthem MRX720) does have ARC, which I will do after I get the initial setup done.


Thanks for the help.

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post #20 of 23 Old 03-20-2018, 07:42 AM
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I do like to run my subs hot. So now when I watch a movie at my regular listening levels, is it better to increase the gain through the AVR or through the iNuke software to where I like it? I would assume through the AVR.
Using the gain knobs will be your best bet. Do you realize that when you run ARC it will be doing its own level matching as part of its process? In other words, everything you are doing now is good for learning, but it will all be overridden by Anthem when you run ARC.
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post #21 of 23 Old 03-20-2018, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
Thanks for the info aron7awol. So i have tried to adjust the input/output.

What i did was disconnect the subs, and speakers. I put the receiver's volume at the max that i think i would ever listen at, and most likely will never listen at but whatever, which is -15. I put the subs gain within the receiver at -10. I then played the WOTW pod scene over and over and over and over looking at the input/output graph and making adjustments. So what i have come up with is if i am 1 notch away from full clockwise on the inuke's outer knobs, the input stage never seems to clip. Looks like it comes close but doesn't clip. Then i adjusted the gain on the software (crossover tab) until it hit the limiter for brief second on the pod scene, which was -0.5. Is this all correct. So essentially it should not be hitting the limiter? How close do i want it to the limiter? I haven't actually level matched them yet, but at least if i know that this is correct then its a start for me. I also selected the Bypass button on the Parametric EQ tab to disable any kind of EQ. My ARC is also off within my receiver.

Thanks again for all the help guys. I know it can get annoying repeated similar solutions, but it is greatly appreciated.

BTW, i mentioned in another inuke thread about the fans on my 2 6000dsps being silent when i turned them on. People mentioned that after some use they ramp up speed and make noise. Well as of right now, after playing the POD scene with the above settings for about 30 minutes over and over again, the fans are still quiet. They have not gotten any louder at all. Maybe i just haven't run them hard enough yet, but as of right now i have zero need for any kind of fan mod.
Yes that is correct to a point. It is ok to hit the limiter on large scenes like WOTW but ideally for less than a second or 2 at most. What you don't want is to be riding the limiter all the time or for it to be coming on for long sustained periods of time over 2 seconds.

In all honestly running sealed the first thing you should do is implement Shreads cheat to flatten the amp to 10hz by adding an HS6 filter with a negative gain of -2.5db to all the subs. Just go into the EQ tab and choose filter 8 and apply this filter to both channels A&B in both amps. This will make the amps native response flat to 10hz giving you the best chance at deep extension to the single digits. This must be done before EQ or optimizing gain structures like you did last night because it will use a bit of headroom. Same with EQ, it needs to be done before setting or optimizing the gains also because you will have a completely different amount of headroom to work within once doing so but your process is correct once these steps are complete

As Aron7 said you are now basically set to the maximum level of bass possible within the bounds of the sub displacement and power levels you have the Inuke limiter set to though you may not want this much bass during normal playback.

Where you have your system now is essentially exactly how I have my sub system calibrated except that I have the Inuke limiter set to -0.1db so that the limiter engages instead of the output clipping while also allowing the maximum amount of power. If you have made it that far in the Inuke Rundown thread, Shreads found the Inukes to clip before the clip lights on the front of the amp or in the software came on without the limiter engaged but engaging the limiter even just to its lowest setting like I have it keeps the output from clipping by engaging the limiter before output clipping can take place. I say this because you having the limiter set to -4db is basically holding each sub to 800watts each which is a very safe setting but in as small as the sealed enclosures are and with the low main volume of -15 I feel very comfortable saying that you could all but disengage the limiter and still be perfectly safe if you wish. I have run an Ultimax 18 in a full Marty ported enclosure for over 2 years with the limiter at 0.1db and watched many movies at full reference MV with no problems at all and your sealed enclosures will definitely appreciate more power down low especially once you start eq'ing with REW and adding filters.
Going above the rated power on the drivers with the limiter is a personal choice and one that must be made considering many factors such as usual listening MV, eq filters applied, enclosure type, driver, driver impedance curve and type of content played back on the system. If your usual content is movie soundtracks the dynamic nature of the content rarely sends extended length signals in the most thermally dangerous areas of the frequency band like say EDM music does and considering your sealed enclosures and low MV listening level and the known durability of the Ultimax ( I have never read of a single thermal failure from an Inuke though I'm sure some fringe case's may exist) I feel safe recommending a limiter setting of around -0.6 to -1.0db allowing in the neighborhood of 1000-1100watts at 4ohms to reach the drivers(but keep in mind because of the impedance curve of the Ultimax that only a small area below 6hz is actually 4ohms and most all of the freq band the sub plays is 6ohms or above which lowers the amount of power quite a bit possibly as much as half of 4ohms RMS in parts of that band). As I say this is totally a personal choice whether you choose to follow my advice, but if you do like the bass level as it is now once you eq with rew you are going to find it easy to hit the limiter on the same scenes you ran to set the gain after the filters are implemented and could give a bit more power to the system by lowering the limiter to the range I outlined above safely I feel as long as you use common sense and don't abuse the system for long periods of time at reference MV with super demanding source material or blast constant beat EDM music at very high volume in the excursion minima frequency zones where the driver is not moving far enough to create the airflow required to cool the voice coil.

All of the above may be a moot point if as you have the system set now you feel there is too much bass and you lower the overall sub level because that would allow some headroom for the filters you will need to flatten the system with REW. But if you are like me and want the maximum the system has to offer at any given moment after eq you may consider lowering the limiter for max headroom.

To expand a bit on what Aron7 was saying about calibrating the subs relative to the other speakers in the system, this is solely a personal preference. As you have the system, adjusted to the max sub level without hitting the limiter(as it is now set to -4db) I would guess you are likely calibrated hot at the moment, which is just fine if that is how you like it.

Knowing how many db hot over reference your subs are calibrated is purely a way for you to be able to say to others here on the forums how hot you run your bass because it honestly matters not to your personal satisfaction once you are happy with the sound.
I prefer to run my subs in the 6-9db hot range with a 6db house curve from 90hz down to 10hz and I know that based on measuring the system many times eq'ing flat as possible then ultimately applying many variations of the house curve and listening in each instance. Some folks like no house curve for completely flat bass but run much hotter in the 10-15db hot range, some folks don't like to run hot or a house curve and no one is wrong per say. There really is no wrong way to set the sub level as long as the system is within its limits and setup properly not to clip anywhere in the signal chain.
But once you start measuring and find the level you like the eq'ed bass you will know how hot or not you like your bass and whether or not you prefer a house curve and this will allow you to tell others how you like your system set.

All of the gain setting you are doing is a good learning experience but will basically have to be completely redone once you have eq'ed the system. Eq'ed bass sounds totally different also and will also affect the level at which you will prefer to set the subs so Aron7's advice to get going with REW is really the next step for you if you plan to do it at all.
Any filters you apply will affect the headroom or lack thereof within the Inuke and will require a complete redo of the gain stages again but you are on the right track and may use the same process you used this time once the system is eq'ed to find the maximum bass level the system is capable of after eq then set the level from there based on preference. After eq and max level calibration if you find it too much bass obviously you can turn the gain down a bit but if you find you are wanting more that would be the point you would have to add more subs and prob more amps.

I completely understand that all this can be extremely overwhelming. There is so much that needs to be covered and between all of the steps involved in the Inuke setup as well as the setup of REW it can seem like a mountain to climb but I have successfully helped 3 other members get started with REW, the Inuke and Eq'ing their system in the last 2 months using video chat over Messenger and will gladly do the same for you if you like, I'm going to send you a PM with my contact info following this message. Feel free to reach out anytime and I can help you as much or little as you like and keep you moving in the right direction. Even help you finalize the Inuke setup, do measurements and eq in real time through video chat if you like. There is just too much to cover typing that we can go over chatting much easier and faster plus you will most likely have questions along the way that I can answer or direct you to someone who can answer them for you if I can't.

EDIT:PM sent
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post #22 of 23 Old 03-20-2018, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks @biga6761 that sounds perfect. If I could get a step by step tutorial so to speak, that would go a long way. PM Sent.
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post #23 of 23 Old 03-20-2018, 10:18 AM
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You people's walls of text is making my eyes glaze over. LOL
TLDR

A $10 walmart voltmeter can check if the output of the avr and amp are indentical on both channels.
They should match if they ain't broken.

Beyond that, all you can do is eq or move the subs around. (For which you'll have to read the walls of text for details. )
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