Originally Posted by 04rex
Thanks for the info aron7awol. So i have tried to adjust the input/output.
What i did was disconnect the subs, and speakers. I put the receiver's volume at the max that i think i would ever listen at, and most likely will never listen at but whatever, which is -15. I put the subs gain within the receiver at -10. I then played the WOTW pod scene over and over and over and over looking at the input/output graph and making adjustments. So what i have come up with is if i am 1 notch away from full clockwise on the inuke's outer knobs, the input stage never seems to clip. Looks like it comes close but doesn't clip. Then i adjusted the gain on the software (crossover tab) until it hit the limiter for brief second on the pod scene, which was -0.5. Is this all correct. So essentially it should not be hitting the limiter? How close do i want it to the limiter? I haven't actually level matched them yet, but at least if i know that this is correct then its a start for me. I also selected the Bypass button on the Parametric EQ tab to disable any kind of EQ. My ARC is also off within my receiver.
Thanks again for all the help guys. I know it can get annoying repeated similar solutions, but it is greatly appreciated.
BTW, i mentioned in another inuke thread about the fans on my 2 6000dsps being silent when i turned them on. People mentioned that after some use they ramp up speed and make noise. Well as of right now, after playing the POD scene with the above settings for about 30 minutes over and over again, the fans are still quiet. They have not gotten any louder at all. Maybe i just haven't run them hard enough yet, but as of right now i have zero need for any kind of fan mod.
Yes that is correct to a point. It is ok to hit the limiter on large scenes like WOTW but ideally for less than a second or 2 at most. What you don't want is to be riding the limiter all the time or for it to be coming on for long sustained periods of time over 2 seconds.
In all honestly running sealed the first thing you should do is implement Shreads cheat to flatten the amp to 10hz by adding an HS6 filter with a negative gain of -2.5db to all the subs. Just go into the EQ tab and choose filter 8 and apply this filter to both channels A&B in both amps. This will make the amps native response flat to 10hz giving you the best chance at deep extension to the single digits. This must be done before EQ or optimizing gain structures like you did last night because it will use a bit of headroom. Same with EQ, it needs to be done before setting or optimizing the gains also because you will have a completely different amount of headroom to work within once doing so but your process is correct once these steps are complete
As Aron7 said you are now basically set to the maximum level of bass possible within the bounds of the sub displacement and power levels you have the Inuke limiter set to though you may not want this much bass during normal playback.
Where you have your system now is essentially exactly how I have my sub system calibrated except that I have the Inuke limiter set to -0.1db so that the limiter engages instead of the output clipping while also allowing the maximum amount of power. If you have made it that far in the Inuke Rundown thread, Shreads found the Inukes to clip before the clip lights on the front of the amp or in the software came on without the limiter engaged but engaging the limiter even just to its lowest setting like I have it keeps the output from clipping by engaging the limiter before output clipping can take place. I say this because you having the limiter set to -4db is basically holding each sub to 800watts each which is a very safe setting but in as small as the sealed enclosures are and with the low main volume of -15 I feel very comfortable saying that you could all but disengage the limiter and still be perfectly safe if you wish. I have run an Ultimax 18 in a full Marty ported enclosure for over 2 years with the limiter at 0.1db and watched many movies at full reference MV with no problems at all and your sealed enclosures will definitely appreciate more power down low especially once you start eq'ing with REW and adding filters.
Going above the rated power on the drivers with the limiter is a personal choice and one that must be made considering many factors such as usual listening MV, eq filters applied, enclosure type, driver, driver impedance curve and type of content played back on the system. If your usual content is movie soundtracks the dynamic nature of the content rarely sends extended length signals in the most thermally dangerous areas of the frequency band like say EDM music does and considering your sealed enclosures and low MV listening level and the known durability of the Ultimax ( I have never read of a single thermal failure from an Inuke though I'm sure some fringe case's may exist) I feel safe recommending a limiter setting of around -0.6 to -1.0db allowing in the neighborhood of 1000-1100watts at 4ohms to reach the drivers(but keep in mind because of the impedance curve of the Ultimax that only a small area below 6hz is actually 4ohms and most all of the freq band the sub plays is 6ohms or above which lowers the amount of power quite a bit possibly as much as half of 4ohms RMS in parts of that band). As I say this is totally a personal choice whether you choose to follow my advice, but if you do like the bass level as it is now once you eq with rew you are going to find it easy to hit the limiter on the same scenes you ran to set the gain after the filters are implemented and could give a bit more power to the system by lowering the limiter to the range I outlined above safely I feel as long as you use common sense and don't abuse the system for long periods of time at reference MV with super demanding source material or blast constant beat EDM music at very high volume in the excursion minima frequency zones where the driver is not moving far enough to create the airflow required to cool the voice coil.
All of the above may be a moot point if as you have the system set now you feel there is too much bass and you lower the overall sub level because that would allow some headroom for the filters you will need to flatten the system with REW. But if you are like me and want the maximum the system has to offer at any given moment after eq you may consider lowering the limiter for max headroom.
To expand a bit on what Aron7 was saying about calibrating the subs relative to the other speakers in the system, this is solely a personal preference. As you have the system, adjusted to the max sub level without hitting the limiter(as it is now set to -4db) I would guess you are likely calibrated hot at the moment, which is just fine if that is how you like it.
Knowing how many db hot over reference your subs are calibrated is purely a way for you to be able to say to others here on the forums how hot you run your bass because it honestly matters not to your personal satisfaction once you are happy with the sound.
I prefer to run my subs in the 6-9db hot range with a 6db house curve from 90hz down to 10hz and I know that based on measuring the system many times eq'ing flat as possible then ultimately applying many variations of the house curve and listening in each instance. Some folks like no house curve for completely flat bass but run much hotter in the 10-15db hot range, some folks don't like to run hot or a house curve and no one is wrong per say. There really is no wrong way to set the sub level as long as the system is within its limits and setup properly not to clip anywhere in the signal chain.
But once you start measuring and find the level you like the eq'ed bass you will know how hot or not you like your bass and whether or not you prefer a house curve and this will allow you to tell others how you like your system set.
All of the gain setting you are doing is a good learning experience but will basically have to be completely redone once you have eq'ed the system. Eq'ed bass sounds totally different also and will also affect the level at which you will prefer to set the subs so Aron7's advice to get going with REW is really the next step for you if you plan to do it at all.
Any filters you apply will affect the headroom or lack thereof within the Inuke and will require a complete redo of the gain stages again but you are on the right track and may use the same process you used this time once the system is eq'ed to find the maximum bass level the system is capable of after eq then set the level from there based on preference. After eq and max level calibration if you find it too much bass obviously you can turn the gain down a bit but if you find you are wanting more that would be the point you would have to add more subs and prob more amps.
I completely understand that all this can be extremely overwhelming. There is so much that needs to be covered and between all of the steps involved in the Inuke setup as well as the setup of REW it can seem like a mountain to climb but I have successfully helped 3 other members get started with REW, the Inuke and Eq'ing their system in the last 2 months using video chat over Messenger and will gladly do the same for you if you like, I'm going to send you a PM with my contact info following this message. Feel free to reach out anytime and I can help you as much or little as you like and keep you moving in the right direction. Even help you finalize the Inuke setup, do measurements and eq in real time through video chat if you like. There is just too much to cover typing that we can go over chatting much easier and faster plus you will most likely have questions along the way that I can answer or direct you to someone who can answer them for you if I can't.