Skinny Mini[marty] LT - build thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 132 Old 07-19-2018, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally started this build...

Cut all the pieces (x2 since i’m Starting with 2 and might add a 3rd behind the screen since i have two extra UM18’s ha) using a combination of tracksaw to rip to smaller pieces and tablesaw and mitersaw to get to final dimensions:


Glued up using the back as the main piece to build off of. Starting with the bottom and the side without the slot port. Can never have enough clamps. I repeat, you can never have enough clamps :



Adding the slot port (i used combination of clamps and 18g brad nailer since clamps couldn’t reach most edges here):


Brings me to where i am right now, put on the ‘short’ side where the port exits, and am adding the bracing. I’m only doing a single front baffle, so hopefully this is enough. Anyone have any thoughts on whether i need more before i add on the top piece and call bracing ‘done’?
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post #32 of 132 Old 07-19-2018, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Added a couple 45deg pieces around the planned woofer cutout to give me some more support closer to the circle. Not sure if this is needed but makes me feel better ha

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post #33 of 132 Old 07-19-2018, 04:27 PM
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post #34 of 132 Old 07-19-2018, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
How are you bracing the sides/top?
Thanks for commenting!

Do they really need to be braced in those directions? I wouldn’t expect there to be much force in either of those directions, and even if there was, the front baffle and back wall should really be enough to stop them from moving I would think. cabinet is shallow at 12.5” inside depth so I can’t imagine thee is much resonance on the top/bottom and sides to worry about? I went for bracing Stonehenge-style and I didn’t think that design had any bracing in those directions unless I missed it?
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post #35 of 132 Old 07-19-2018, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rukus29 View Post
Thanks for commenting!

Do they really need to be braced in those directions? I wouldn’t expect there to be much force in either of those directions, and even if there was, the front baffle and back wall should really be enough to stop them from moving I would think. cabinet is shallow at 12.5” inside depth so I can’t imagine thee is much resonance on the top/bottom and sides to worry about? I went for bracing Stonehenge-style and I didn’t think that design had any bracing in those directions unless I missed it?
I hadn't seen the dimensions earlier so wasn't sure how narrow those pieces were. Even at only 14" I would be inclined to put a couple of braces side-to-side, and a couple for the top. I used simple cross bracing for the top of my VBSS build, just 2 pieces front-to-back flush to the top of the panels (you can see them in the link in my sig).
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post #36 of 132 Old 07-19-2018, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
I hadn't seen the dimensions earlier so wasn't sure how narrow those pieces were. Even at only 14" I would be inclined to put a couple of braces side-to-side, and a couple for the top. I used simple cross bracing for the top of my VBSS build, just 2 pieces front-to-back flush to the top of the panels (you can see them in the link in my sig).
Got it, ok ill add a few small blocks to tie the sides and top into the other braces i already have in place. Just put the top piece on, so once that’s dried ill cut a few blocks to fit. Looking at the Stonehenge design, i do see a few braces that run front to back that also likely act as bracing for the side (the one with the port exit) and the top.
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post #37 of 132 Old 07-19-2018, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Top piece added:
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post #38 of 132 Old 07-21-2018, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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For lining these subs, can I use r6.7 1.8” thick recycled denim without affecting internal volume? Or do I really need to go with something like cheap Kmart mattress topper for lining the internal walls?
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post #39 of 132 Old 07-21-2018, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Second sub brought up to the same state as the first one... went with different bracing on this one as I was (probably incorrectly) paranoid that the first one was not good enough in terms of bracing.



Anyone have thoughts on using the r6.7/1.8” ultratouch to line the sub vs mattress toppers (these are big subs and mattress toppers I’ve seen are pricey!)?
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post #40 of 132 Old 07-22-2018, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, started to staple in the extra ultratouch I had laying around today... tried to keep it a little away from the port area.
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post #41 of 132 Old 07-23-2018, 06:22 AM
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@rukus29 , in your first post you show your cut-out plan along with the design photos. Did you plot that out yourself?
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post #42 of 132 Old 07-23-2018, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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@rukus29 , in your first post you show your cut-out plan along with the design photos. Did you plot that out yourself?
I did the cut plan based on the SketchUp picture Jon threw together.
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post #43 of 132 Old 07-23-2018, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rukus29 View Post
Second sub brought up to the same state as the first one... went with different bracing on this one as I was (probably incorrectly) paranoid that the first one was not good enough in terms of bracing.



Anyone have thoughts on using the r6.7/1.8” ultratouch to line the sub vs mattress toppers (these are big subs and mattress toppers I’ve seen are pricey!)?
The driver bracing looks incredible! You should be proud, even though no one in person will see it, we know.
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post #44 of 132 Old 07-23-2018, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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The driver bracing looks incredible! You should be proud, even though no one in person will see it, we know.
Thanks! I just copied the Stonehenge design for the most part on the second one, with a couple extra since mine are bigger. I just don’t want these things falling apart and me having to lug more massive subs down a flight of stairs!
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post #45 of 132 Old 07-23-2018, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Both subs now glued up. First one out of clamps and the second one in them. Don’t have weights around the house, so had to get creative ensuring good joints between the front face and the bracing!

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post #46 of 132 Old 07-24-2018, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Subs glued up, sanded, and first coat of shellac sealer is on...

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post #47 of 132 Old 07-24-2018, 11:40 AM
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Nice work! Cool design LTD02 did for you!
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post #48 of 132 Old 07-24-2018, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice work! Cool design LTD02 did for you!
Thanks! And yes, @LTD02 was very helpful!
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post #49 of 132 Old 07-24-2018, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Started the finishing process today..
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post #50 of 132 Old 07-24-2018, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rukus29 View Post
Started the finishing process today..
Looks great! What drivers did you get, the ULX?

Also one thing I’d consider is painting the inside lip of the front baffle cutout. I wish I would have done both of mine instead of just the recessed part.
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post #51 of 132 Old 07-25-2018, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks great! What drivers did you get, the ULX?

Also one thing I’d consider is painting the inside lip of the front baffle cutout. I wish I would have done both of mine instead of just the recessed part.
I have 2 UXL18s and 2 UM18s but these will house the UXLs..

I didn’t paint the inside lip since I’m not flush mounting the drivers and the gaskets should completely cover the hole cutout and then some!
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post #52 of 132 Old 07-26-2018, 06:32 AM
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Nice work! Cool design LTD02 did for you!
i helped with calculating some of the specs, port, etc. the vision/concept was rukus29's. :-)

build is looking great too!
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post #53 of 132 Old 07-26-2018, 06:43 AM
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i helped with calculating some of the specs, port, etc. the vision/concept was rukus29's. :-)

build is looking great too!
You are a humble man, sir. We greatly appreciate your contributions.
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post #54 of 132 Old 07-26-2018, 09:40 AM
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@LTD02

I was looking for something a little more shallow even. Would 42w x 39h x 13d work keeping the port the same on the 39" side?

Thanks
Mark
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post #55 of 132 Old 07-28-2018, 09:26 AM
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@LTD02

I was looking for something a little more shallow even. Would 42w x 39h x 13d work keeping the port the same on the 39" side?

Thanks
Mark
all changes result in changes. :-)

your plan will give a slightly lower tuning frequency and slightly higher port velocity, but should be just fine. at some point, a cab like this that is too narrow may experience some rocking motion depending on weight and driver used. i don' t know specifically at what point that may begin to be a problem, but keeping the driver lower on the face will help minimize any of those effects. i don't see it as a problem at 13", but there will probably be another guy who asks about 12"...then 11"...then 10"... :-)
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post #56 of 132 Old 07-28-2018, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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i helped with calculating some of the specs, port, etc. the vision/concept was rukus29's. :-)

build is looking great too!
Ha. I’m just the manual labor! Thank you! Boxes are done and moved into the theater, time to install the UXLs in the next few days.. at that point I’ll be able to give folks a better sense of how ‘tippy’ the 14” design is with the driver. You’ll eventually see from the pics that in the second box I moved the driver a couple inches lower on the face to drop the center of gravity just in case the design is a bit too narrow.

Anyone know if putting LCRs on top of subwoofers is a bad idea from an acoustic perspective (ie assuming I’m not worried about one falling off the other)?
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post #57 of 132 Old 07-29-2018, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rukus29 View Post
I have 2 UXL18s and 2 UM18s but these will house the UXLs..

I didn’t paint the inside lip since I’m not flush mounting the drivers and the gaskets should completely cover the hole cutout and then some!
When you get them up & running let us know how you feel the ULX compares to the UM w/ extension & midbass.

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post #58 of 132 Old 07-31-2018, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, got the subs wired up and drivers installed

Speakon prep



Driver wired



fit check



Done, with an 80 pound golden retriever added for scale!



The 14” depth is not really tippy, at least not with subs just sitting there. Haven’t tried to play anything yet because I am still waiting for rca splitter and rca->XLR cables but those won’t be here before i leave the country for a week. So first impressions will have to wait until next weekend!
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post #59 of 132 Old 07-31-2018, 11:59 AM - Thread Starter
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When you get them up & running let us know how you feel the ULX compares to the UM w/ extension & midbass.
Will be a couple weeks, at least, until I get boxes for the um18s built. Need to decide what to do with them first . Do I build two for the rear wall to sit under my rear surrounds or do I go near field and put them behind the mlp... decisions. But first I need to measure what the two uxls do in the space and see how they feel with a movie before making those decisions.
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post #60 of 132 Old 08-01-2018, 04:55 AM
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Will be a couple weeks, at least, until I get boxes for the um18s built. Need to decide what to do with them first . Do I build two for the rear wall to sit under my rear surrounds or do I go near field and put them behind the mlp... decisions. But first I need to measure what the two uxls do in the space and see how they feel with a movie before making those decisions.
Throw the UM’s against the back wall & just order 4 JBL CS1214 12’s to throw behind your seating!

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