Which Table Saw should I purcahse - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Which Table Saw should I purcahse

I built my first 2 Mini Marty subs by buying the flat packs. That was great and I love em. Now I want to build another sub. You all know the drill. I'm hooked on it now

To build my next sub, I'd most likely need to cut the board myself. So now I"m in need of table saw.
Here is the result of search from craigslist near by me

https://cnj.craigslist.org/search/ss...20saw&sort=rel

Since I have never used table saw before, really don't know which one would be a good buy. Please advice.
Thx
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post #2 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 11:07 AM
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What budget do you have in mind?
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post #3 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 11:13 AM
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...and how much do you plan on using it beyond building a subwoofer?
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post #4 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Efalegalo View Post
What budget do you have in mind?
around 200ish for a used one. This is my first one and was thinking that may be a cheaper one that gets the job done might be a good option to go with but wouldn't want to get something that will make me struggle just to cut the boards properly.
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...and how much do you plan on using it beyond building a subwoofer?
Most likely just a build a few shelfs besides subs. Nothing heavy. Most likely 90% of its use will be to build subs.
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post #5 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
around 200ish for a used one. This is my first one and was thinking that may be a cheaper one that gets the job done might be a good option to go with but wouldn't want to get something that will make me struggle just to cut the boards properly.


Most likely just a build a few shelfs besides subs. Nothing heavy. Most likely 90% of its use will be to build subs.
I would get something where the fence can adjust out at at least 26" so that you can cut the width with no issues. Most table saws that can reach out that far will probably be out of your price range.

For someone that will not use a table saw alot, I would recommend getting a Kreg accu-cut track system and a nice skil saw. It will take up a ton less space, cut most things just as well and is alot cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Accu-Cut...kreg+track+saw
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post #6 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rustychevelle View Post
I would get something where the fence can adjust out at at least 26" so that you can cut the width with no issues. Most table saws that can reach out that far will probably be out of your price range.

For someone that will not use a table saw alot, I would recommend getting a Kreg accu-cut track system and a nice skil saw. It will take up a ton less space, cut most things just as well and is alot cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Accu-Cut...kreg+track+saw
I can speak to the value and usability of both the ripcut and the accucut from Kreg. I just used them for making two VBSS and it was very simple and very easy to use. You could get by with just the ripcut if you have Home Depot do the larger cuts for you
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post #7 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:10 PM
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I agree with the suggestions of looking into a track saw setup. A cheap used table saw could end very badly for someone with no experience. There are definitely some capable jobsite type table saws out there, but if you don't know what you're doing or how to set one up to insure that you can use it safely, especially a used one with unknown history, it could lead to serious injury very quickly. On the other hand, with a circular saw/track saw setup, even if you do accidentally pinch the blade or experience a kick-back incident, at least you're holding onto the "weapon" when it happens and can hopefully keep yourself safe.
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post #8 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustychevelle View Post
I would get something where the fence can adjust out at at least 26" so that you can cut the width with no issues. Most table saws that can reach out that far will probably be out of your price range.

For someone that will not use a table saw alot, I would recommend getting a Kreg accu-cut track system and a nice skil saw. It will take up a ton less space, cut most things just as well and is alot cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Accu-Cut...kreg+track+saw
Very nice indeed. Can you recommend which skil saw to get. I see they are priced from 40-200. Would this be a good one? https://www.amazon.com/Skil-5180-01-...words=skil+saw

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Originally Posted by thesmileman View Post
I can speak to the value and usability of both the ripcut and the accucut from Kreg. I just used them for making two VBSS and it was very simple and very easy to use. You could get by with just the ripcut if you have Home Depot do the larger cuts for you
Home Depot at my location has no issue cutting the pieces for me. I think the minimum the go is 12".
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post #9 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
Very nice indeed. Can you recommend which skil saw to get. I see they are priced from 40-200. Would this be a good one? https://www.amazon.com/Skil-5180-01-...words=skil+saw
For circular saws I tried using my ryobi 5 1/2 18v one plus saw and it worked fine. If mine worked fine I can't imagine you having an issue with any skill saw. The only thing I can stress is if your cutting MDF inside I have two tips. First don't. I did and it was horrible even with a respirator. Second if you do get a saw with a shopvac attachment so you can at least minimize the dust (I didn't and again it was so horrible).

As for the accucut. Your gonna be confused when you take it out of the box. Watch a couple of videos on how to mount it and it will become very clear. It was pretty confusing to me at first.

Here is a link for the rip cut if you want it.
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-.../dp/B007K5HIFS
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post #10 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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post #11 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I agree with the suggestions of looking into a track saw setup. A cheap used table saw could end very badly for someone with no experience. There are definitely some capable jobsite type table saws out there, but if you don't know what you're doing or how to set one up to insure that you can use it safely, especially a used one with unknown history, it could lead to serious injury very quickly. On the other hand, with a circular saw/track saw setup, even if you do accidentally pinch the blade or experience a kick-back incident, at least you're holding onto the "weapon" when it happens and can hopefully keep yourself safe.
I agree with this 100%. I don't have a track saw and instead just use a circular saw and "clamp edge"

Decent Saw
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...rter+cable+saw
Clamp edge set. They can also be used as clamps when you assemble the cabinet.
https://www.amazon.com/Bora-543300-C...&keywords=Bora

Clamp edge with guides. These guides take some setup to get just right. I don't use them as I think it's just as easy to slide the shoe of the saw down the side of the clamp. I just wanted to point out that the guides are available.
https://www.amazon.com/Bora-543500-E...&keywords=Bora
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post #12 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:42 PM
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Any circular saw will work. I have a Makita. Then get a long level and clamp it down to make your cuts..or some other straight non bending metal. You can also DIY a track for it. Grab a 60tooth diablo blade for it to keep the cuts from having rough edges.
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post #13 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:47 PM
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anything that can work like a panel saw is what I would go with...safety.

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post #14 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 12:51 PM
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I'm not going to comment on whether or not a track saw or guided circular saw is a better choice for this specific project. A table saw is a way better choice if you plan to make other things too. If you do go for a table saw, I am a very strong advocate for the DeWalt line of job saws, as their fence system is vastly superior to their competitors in that price range. The DW745 is achievable in the range you're asking for, but may not have the necessary rip cut capacity. Sometimes you can cheat by doing a rough cut off a guided circular saw (or courtesy cuts at home store) and then cleaning it up with the table saw, at the cost of material waste.

In general you're not going to be taking down 4x8 sheets of material with an 'affordable' table saw, so you may need the circular saw + guides regardless.

Last edited by Promit; 04-03-2018 at 01:22 PM.
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post #15 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I Love AVSForum . So many great advises. I think I'm going to also start my thread when I start building the PA460 Sub. I should have done it with Marty sub but that's already done .

Thx so much guys. Very helpful tips.
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post #16 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
I agree with this 100%. I don't have a track saw and instead just use a circular saw and "clamp edge"

Decent Saw
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...rter+cable+saw
Clamp edge set. They can also be used as clamps when you assemble the cabinet.
https://www.amazon.com/Bora-543300-C...&keywords=Bora

Clamp edge with guides. These guides take some setup to get just right. I don't use them as I think it's just as easy to slide the shoe of the saw down the side of the clamp. I just wanted to point out that the guides are available.
https://www.amazon.com/Bora-543500-E...&keywords=Bora
Clamp edge with guides look different from Kreg Combo Accu-Cut &Track Clamps. Also Clamp edge with guides is 160 and Kreg Combo is 100. What's the main difference of using one over the other?
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post #17 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
Clamp edge with guides look different from Kreg Combo Accu-Cut &Track Clamps. Also Clamp edge with guides is 160 and Kreg Combo is 100. What's the main difference of using one over the other?
Are you talking about the Kreg Rip-Cut linked earlier? I'm not really a fan of that design because it relies on the edge of your material being flat/square. There is also the possibility that it drifts pretty easily with such a short runner following the edge. If we're not talking about the same product, I'd be happy to provide more thoughts...maybe a link to what you're thinking of?

Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2700-...70_&dpSrc=srch

If you're speaking of this style, the only difference is that there is no clamping mechanism built into the guide, like the "clamp edge." You have to align the guide with your marks and then clamp both ends...then make sure it's still aligned with the marks. Either works fine. It just depends on preference. I lick the "clamp edge" style since you only have to lay it down, align the marks and push the lever to clamp the entire assembly.

I think Lowes has both styles in stores. It may be worth a look in person. I know they sell Kreg brand and also have seen the Bora clamps there, specifically.

Last edited by JohnDean; 04-03-2018 at 02:40 PM.
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post #18 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 02:45 PM
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It is trivial and cheap to DIY a saw guide for your circular saw, and it will always have a perfect offset for your saw and your blade.

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post #19 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 05:02 PM
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It is trivial and cheap to DIY a saw guide for your circular saw, and it will always have a perfect offset for your saw and your blade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdrbz-Y
This is what I have been using for a long time. It has built many things. But I also have my Dewalt table saw and miter saw which I love.
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post #20 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 05:39 PM
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I agree with the others that suggest a track saw, or just a good circ saw & home build guide. It you want to get into a broader scope of woodworking, then a table saw is a worthwhile investment. But even when you've got a table saw, the track saw is still good to have.
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post #21 of 46 Old 04-03-2018, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
I built my first 2 Mini Marty subs by buying the flat packs. That was great and I love em. Now I want to build another sub. You all know the drill. I'm hooked on it now

To build my next sub, I'd most likely need to cut the board myself. So now I"m in need of table saw.
Here is the result of search from craigslist near by me

https://cnj.craigslist.org/search/ss...20saw&sort=rel

Since I have never used table saw before, really don't know which one would be a good buy. Please advice.
Thx
Finally, an area I am an expert in and can contribute. I have been in the woodworking machinery business for 20 years and woodworking for 30 years.

You want a cast iron topped saw, preferably with solid cast wings. You want your saw to be belt drive with a sealed (TEFC) induction motor (not direct drive and not a universal (brushed) motor).

For a fence, you do not want one with a round bar "Jet Lock" style fence, an extruded aluminum front rail, or one that locks front and rear. None of these types assure you of a square cut each time you lock down the fence. Look for a Biesemeyer type fence system, rectangular front rail, front rail cam locking type fence body.

You don't need a 500lb 3hp cabinet saw for cutting sheet goods, although if you find a decent Delta Unisaw cheap, there is no reason not to buy it.

A good choice would a used Delta Hybrid like this,

http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictur...iews/99122.jpg

I am in Canada, so I don't know all the choices you might have down there.

I hope this helped.

David.
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post #22 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
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Finally, an area I am an expert in and can contribute. I have been in the woodworking machinery business for 20 years and woodworking for 30 years.

You want a cast iron topped saw, preferably with solid cast wings. You want your saw to be belt drive with a sealed (TEFC) induction motor (not direct drive and not a universal (brushed) motor).

For a fence, you do not want one with a round bar "Jet Lock" style fence, an extruded aluminum front rail, or one that locks front and rear. None of these types assure you of a square cut each time you lock down the fence. Look for a Biesemeyer type fence system, rectangular front rail, front rail cam locking type fence body.

You don't need a 500lb 3hp cabinet saw for cutting sheet goods, although if you find a decent Delta Unisaw cheap, there is no reason not to buy it.

A good choice would a used Delta Hybrid like this,

http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictur...iews/99122.jpg

I am in Canada, so I don't know all the choices you might have down there.

I hope this helped.

David.
Great info! I just think it's out of his budget, which leads us to track saws/circular saws & guides. If I was looking to buy a dedicated track saw, I'd be seriously looking at the Makita.

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-SP6000...70_&dpSrc=srch
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post #23 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 06:06 AM
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I’d also look at EurekaZone. I’m using their Universal Edge Guide and their track saw base and track. Very nice stuff. Not expensive either, especially when compared to a nice table saw.

I would avoide circular saws that run off a battery. I like Milwaukee, and Dewalt for circular saws. Makita also make nice circular saws. Typically you can find them used, if you want to save a little more.

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post #24 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 06:40 AM
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if u can find one of the old rigid models with the cast iron wings, get it. I got one about a year ago for 250 and its a workhorse. Put a good diablo blade in there and i get cabinet quality cuts. Or if u really want to go cheaper, get a makita circular saw, again with a good diablo blade,and make 2 jigs for 4ft and 8ft ( look on youtube on how to set up jig )cuts and u can also make cabinet quality cross and rip cuts. I still use them to break down sheet goods before running it through table saw. my friend has a festool. With the right blade, my cuts are really undestinguishable from his.

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post #25 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 07:17 AM
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I've got a SawStop PCS 3 HP and can highly recommend it, if it fits your budget. Probably the last table saw you'd need to buy.
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post #26 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm leaning towards what @JohnDean ; recommended
https://www.amazon.com/Bora-543500-E...&keywords=Bora

This is around 160 and with the saw, total will come around 220. Then a 20.0 blade and we are looking a total of 240.00.

Now the next part is how to cut the perfect circle for baffles. How do I cut it to get a perfect circle? What does it need to cut a perfect circle that'd fit the driver circumference?
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post #27 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 10:22 AM
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Some make a DIY jig for circles, check you tube . .

but a router is still needed for that

many trace the circle and go for it with a jig saw- a close fit and adequate wood for mounting screws generally is enough - maybe a you tube vid out there somewhere

Milescraft makes a good combo router jig, about $40 but still need a router and some minor set up, get a router that is listed to be compatible
a plunge router is not mandatory

decent blade: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-7...760R/202021695

HF router? for casual use - maybe

my 20 y.o Ryobi still licking along so maybe : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-8-...631K/206757945

and it's not a race - sure- be excited and motivated but think safety always
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post #28 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 10:27 AM
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Jasper jig.

And FFS asarose, gore photos are totally uncalled for here.
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post #29 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
I'm leaning towards what @JohnDean ; recommended
https://www.amazon.com/Bora-543500-E...&keywords=Bora

This is around 160 and with the saw, total will come around 220. Then a 20.0 blade and we are looking a total of 240.00.

Now the next part is how to cut the perfect circle for baffles. How do I cut it to get a perfect circle? What does it need to cut a perfect circle that'd fit the driver circumference?
Router plus Jasper Jig = perfect circles. Also, a router with a flush trim bit can be a very powerful tool. But, if you don't have either a router or a jig saw; I'd recommend spending the money on a router. It's more versatile; I've used my router countless times, my jig saw, not so much.

Typed on a tiny keyboard, excuse any typos

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post #30 of 46 Old 04-04-2018, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveFred View Post
Finally, an area I am an expert in and can contribute. I have been in the woodworking machinery business for 20 years and woodworking for 30 years.



David.
If you are going to bust his budget go all out. Save for the argument of a 4x8 CNC with a liquid cooled spindle a slider is by far the best machine for building speaker boxes and most anything else. A Felder or Minimax would be nice but if you want to take out a second mortgage an Altendorf or a Martin!

To the OP

Job site saws like the Dewalt or Bosch though good for their intended use are poor (and dangerous) for breaking down sheet goods. Cabinet saws and Hybrids are fine but truly need a good outfeed table to work well. Despite having a full-sized 5hp cabinet saw and a large fixed outfeed table I still use a track saw to break down sheet goods, it is just as accurate and requires less work. I do it on the shop floor on top of a piece of rigid insulation.

Tracksaws vary a lot in price and quality but if you are only going to use it sparingly the bottom end is fine.

The most popular track saws from best to adequate:

Mafell
Festool
Dewalt
Makita
Triton
Grizzly/Shopfox

There are others but I haven't got the experience with them to rate them adequately.

There are multiple options for guide rails for use with a circular saw from a straight piece of wood to rather expensive extruded aluminum versions. Used with care most of them can get straight cuts and reasonable finish on at least one side of the cut they lose out to the track saw for ease of use, edge finish and speed. If you can accept their shortcomings and willing to devote some extra time they are a legitimate alternative to a table or track saw. The more speakers (or other things) you plan to build now and in the future the more reason to consider a track saw.
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