Marty Sub with Dayton 460HO Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 19 Old 05-01-2018, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Marty Sub with Dayton 460HO Build

This is my first sub build. I’ll be using the Martycube design, and the cabinet will be approximately 24”x25.5”x24” with a Dayton 460HO driver tuned to 20Hz powered by an NU6KDSP. I chose this design to complement my pair of PSA V1801 subs which perform very well in my space given their small, spouse accepted footprint in a 5.5Kft^3 room.

Here’s a link to the Martysub FAQ page which has thousands of helpful posts and numerous unique subwoofer builds.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...tysub-faq.html

I chose the 460HO driver partly because the Dayton Ultimax 18-22 is usually out of stock for a month or two, and the performance above 25-30Hz is very similar between these two subs in a smaller enclosure. The UM18-22 would net an extra 3dB output at 20Hz with double the power requirements of the 460HO, but the UM18 driver loses a lot of its ULF potential in only a 4.75ft^3 enclosure. I also felt the 460HO is a better match to my PSA subs based roughly on driver specs.

If the weather cooperates, I’m getting started on the MDF cuts today! More to follow.




New console I just finished to fit both V1801 up front, and allow room for the Martycube in the back of the room.




Let the cuts begin!


Boards all cut down to size with only a few mistakes that needed redone, but with so many pieces I was able to repurpose them. It took a little longer than I had imagined using only a circular saw, but once I found a rhythm the cuts came out great.

Time to start the box assembly! Might need a nap first, haha.

It’s a box! Clamps, a brad nailer, and glue make it pretty easy to start assembling even if you’re solo; I think getting the first few walls up would be a pain without clamps by yourself. This is just a dry fit to see if everything is square...it is! I got lucky and managed to make all the hand cuts with a tolerance down of about 1/32” or less, fingers crossed the rest of it fits together this nicely.



And now to frustrate myself beyond words, I was in a hurry or just didn’t give assembly much thought and believed the dimensions made the Martycube slightly taller (which is wrong, it is more wide than tall), and so I started to put the first four walls together incorrectly and permanently bonded them with a brad nailer and PL premium glue before realizing the the port rails, top and bottom sure do look off with this orientation when dry fitting those next few pieces.

WARNING: If you’re building a Marty, do not put the box together like this or you will be sad and waste a half sheet or more of MDF to start again.


I’m glad it was just the first few walls I screwed up. Of course, they’re the largest panels and the way I had my initial sheets of MDF ripped to transport home, I don’t have enough 2x2’ pieces left to cut from, so that’s essentially most of a sheet gone to waste.

I’m working the next three nights, but I’m determined to run to the store at 6am today, have another sheet cut down, and throw together the first few pieces so I can work on them in between to have little MC (Martycube) ready to crank some bass by next Tuesday or Wednesday.

Time lapse video of a forum member assembling a mini Marty. Watch this first and it may save you from making the same mistake.

Ok, second attempt at box assembly:

Very loosely dry fit more than just the first few walls...check. Looking like the correct way to piece together Marty


Glue, clamp, brad nail the bottom, sides, and back


Port rails and paint



Before inserting the large port bottom and top boards, you may want to run a bead of caulking around the outer seams. I used PL Premium construction adhesive on nearly all the seams, so I didn’t feel it was necessary; I can see why people love this stuff! It’s messy, but very effective at expanding into gaps and creating a strong bond. I’d guess you’d need CNC cut precision to slap most of these boxes together without some sort of gap filler/only wood glue.



Dry fit the front baffle during curing to ensure a proper fit.



Top down view, build on hold for the next few days


REW sweeps and burst tones at fairly low output from 10-150Hz, driver sounds and looks great!


Baffle cut out will be recessed with 3/4” ply on the inside for support, definitely helps to have a circle jig


First cut the circle is 16.6875” which is almost perfect for the 16.69” baffle hole for the 460-HO. Better a hair over to prevent sanding an overly tight fit, but I think I’ll take it.

Counter sink a couple screws into a board below it to keep the cut piece from moving without having any clamps in your way along the edges

She fits!


For a first time builder, this is definitely a slow process from scratch, but appreciating the intricacies of DIY builds is partly why I took on this project. If I’m lucky, I may get everything done by the time I have to return to work with little room for installation, calibration, or listening sessions. I can definitely see why sealed subwoofers with precut flat packs can easily be churned out in a day or two with minimal work...if only my room was smaller.

Round over front baffle, used 3/8” here. May do 3/4” on ports and box edges


Bracing and hopefully the rest of the box will be done today with just the lid to put on tomorrow and then finishing. Running a couple days behind my completion goal, but that’s ok.


Yay, the front baffle is perfectly square!


Majority is finished, feels good! Between work and previous commitments it will be the next couple weeks before it’s finished.



Speakon connector hole using 7/8” bit was a hair small, hole made to be 15/16” before it’d fit


Hope to finish the innards, drill the driver screw holes out, add insulation and get the top on today!

Continued in post #2

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast

Last edited by Sekosche; 05-24-2018 at 03:44 AM.
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post #2 of 19 Old 05-01-2018, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Marty Sub with Dayton 460HO Build

Driver holes drilled out, changed to 1.5” panhead black screws from PE to secure it to the baffle


Rounded ports over with 3/8” and sanded most the seams down and hit the vertical and horizontal edges with 1/4” round over. Going to do 1/2” round over on the four corners that run back to front


Dry fitting the insulation was the easiest step in a while! Going to use some Loctite high tack spray adhesive to glue it down later...almost done with the guts.


Tops on, one side wound up about 3/32” too short so gluing a strip of MDF on to flush trim it down instead of spackling a big gap. I later read in this DIY guide to cut all the sides that will overlap 1/4” longer so you can just flush trim them down instead of winding up short, would have saved me a lot of work here! https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1443078

Crimps and solder will secure the sub cable to the Speakon connector on the inside of the box, +1 and -1 on the connection


I’ll hopefully finish up this weekend (not quite, weather was too nice to not play with the kids all day).

Box edges flush trimmed, spackle, and ready to be sanded before primer, and hopefully the first coat of paint tonight...getting there! I have a week off work coming up so will finish it up this week. I am definitely taking longer to finish that needed, could have just slapped some Duratex on it tonight and have been done, but I’m going to use an acrylic latex finish...hopefully it’ll all work out as intended.


Furniture mover helps for easy rotation during primer/painting



Java bean


Got the wires soldered to the NL4 connector on the box, and built a right angle Speakon cable from 12 gauge wire. Seems to be an extra inch of clearance versus the standard connector if that’s important to you. Using some 3/8” speaker gasket around the NL4 connector and also underneath the driver.

Going to mount everything tonight and finally have it ready to install in my system in the morning.




Looks like she’s nearly done! Waiting on the rest of the family to wake up for installation. BTW, I am positioning it with the port on top because I think it looks cool and contrasts the other two slot port subs nicely.


Not bad for my first build over the course of a month, and oh was it satisfying seeing that driver mounted! Fingers crossed all goes well from here on out.



Welcome to the family!


19Hz at 115dB and distortion maintains 10% or lower...not too shabby! I also did multiple compression sweeps and managed 118dB around tune and 128dB from 35-45Hz. (Edit: this sweep is all three subs at the MLP)


Final resting place.

The next project that I’m starting on July 1st is a pair of fairly slim nearfield subs that will lay down behind the couch with a 15” 390HO driver tuned around 21Hz. @LTD02 helped me with the final design.


That build thread is here:
Dual 15” Dayton 390HO Nearfield Slim Build
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...4&share_type=t

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast

Last edited by Sekosche; 08-02-2018 at 08:45 PM.
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post #3 of 19 Old 05-05-2018, 09:50 AM
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Haha!

"And now to frustrate myself beyond words, I was in a hurry or just didn’t give assembly much thought and believed the dimensions made the Martycube slightly taller (which is wrong, it is more wide than tall), and so I started to put the first four walls together incorrectly and permanently bonded them with a brad nailer and PL premium glue before realizing the the port rails, top and bottom sure do look off with this orientation when dry fitting those next few pieces.

WARNING: If you’re building a Marty, do not put the box together like this or you will be sad and waste a half sheet or more of MDF to start again."

If it helps, I smiled when I read this. One of my sayings is a characteristic of a good woodworker (in this case speaker enclosure) is the ability to cover up the mistakes so nobody notices. Don't think for a second I made up that phrase after the first mistake I made.

Don't let it make you too upset. Try to learn and move on. Looking forward to the build.
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post #4 of 19 Old 05-05-2018, 10:39 AM
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I laughed at that as well and I'm glad the OP shared an embarrassing part of the story. I'm building acoustic panels right now (I've run just over a dozen through the garage-factory so far) and I can tell you that I've had to pull a lot of staples out of a couple of them (stapled fabric to the wrong side) or knocked apart nailed wood pieces because I nailed two sides together when it should've been side, end, side, end. Part of the deal

Love the pictures though and I'm waiting for the results

Cary
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post #5 of 19 Old 06-12-2018, 09:13 PM
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Sekosche, your new sub looks awesome!! I am seriously considering building a Marty Cube too. How does it compare to one of your PSA subs?
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post #6 of 19 Old 06-13-2018, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Marty Sub with Dayton 460HO Build

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Originally Posted by Packerbacker1 View Post
Sekosche, your new sub looks awesome!! I am seriously considering building a Marty Cube too. How does it compare to one of your PSA subs?

Thanks a lot! And you should definitely build one!

For the money, I’d wager this DIY Marty cube is, in most regards, just as good or better than my PSA subs (which are already a tremendous value for an ID sub). I haven’t done any direct A/B comparison that involves swapping subs out and don’t plan on it (maybe one day). And I’ve only watched a few films at or around reference with no music listening sessions to report. I will say the 18” 460-HO is a beast of what I consider a budget oriented driver, and I’m glad I didn’t go with the Ultimax line; because I read too many reports of them sounding a little muddy in ported setups, but that could all be build or setup related error I guess.

Of course I can’t get close to fine tuning the DSP, painting, or building a sub as well as the experts, and I haven’t even put time into EQing the sub beyond the basics necessary for driver protection and running Audyssey XT32. The sub itself has a midbass hump in my room (could be location), and I haven’t done any close mic measurements to compare subs nor do I intend to. Based on the few sweeps I ran, it has very low distortion, and I haven’t heard a hint of port noise; however it’s considerably closer to the MLP, so port velocity stays low. I’m not sure I could get this driver in this enclosure to make a bad sound.

The Marty transfers a tremendous amount of TR at the MLP, and with the Crowson’s on I’ve gotten back to very good levels of tactile response; it feels every bit as powerful as when I had two PSA V1800 subs flanking each side of the couch, so this sub can dish out some serious bass, though having the orientation inverted with the port on top probably helps to some extent.

I have two miniDSP’s HD that are collecting dust, so I may get them out again for the next sub build. The iNuke DSP is OK, but not particularly feature rich for handling a lot of custom PEQ functions.

My PSA subs definitely inspired me to try a similar form factor. The Marty cube is still a bit bigger though than a PSA V1801, which is really in between the micro Marty and cube size. I love the compact form factor of the PSA’s. Back when I had four PSA subs with one in each corner, I always thought it was awesome you could have such powerful subs spread around the room and not have them be a vertical eye sore for improved WAF.

Most PSA subs aren’t known for their particularly WAF friendly industrial/satin black finish (which I love), but their form factor definitely is appealing. It was nice to be able to pick any color to finish the sub, and I really like how the Marty matches my room with the dark brown Java Bean paint I used. However, I can’t get close with a roller and brush to the finish on PSA gear that is extremely durable and very professional, and they reflect back almost no light in a theater room. I also just added a 20”x20” glass table top for the sub to hold a lamp and wireless router.

I’d love to fit a couple Mini Marty subs in room, which are about double the volume of the Marty Cube, but placement flexibility at my current house is too important...hoping to have a sweet man cave at the next residence. This DIY thing is legit!
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Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast

Last edited by Sekosche; 06-14-2018 at 03:07 AM.
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post #7 of 19 Old 06-19-2018, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
Thanks a lot! And you should definitely build one!

For the money, I’d wager this DIY Marty cube is, in most regards, just as good or better than my PSA subs (which are already a tremendous value for an ID sub). I haven’t done any direct A/B comparison that involves swapping subs out and don’t plan on it (maybe one day). And I’ve only watched a few films at or around reference with no music listening sessions to report. I will say the 18” 460-HO is a beast of what I consider a budget oriented driver, and I’m glad I didn’t go with the Ultimax line; because I read too many reports of them sounding a little muddy in ported setups, but that could all be build or setup related error I guess.

Of course I can’t get close to fine tuning the DSP, painting, or building a sub as well as the experts, and I haven’t even put time into EQing the sub beyond the basics necessary for driver protection and running Audyssey XT32. The sub itself has a midbass hump in my room (could be location), and I haven’t done any close mic measurements to compare subs nor do I intend to. Based on the few sweeps I ran, it has very low distortion, and I haven’t heard a hint of port noise; however it’s considerably closer to the MLP, so port velocity stays low. I’m not sure I could get this driver in this enclosure to make a bad sound.

The Marty transfers a tremendous amount of TR at the MLP, and with the Crowson’s on I’ve gotten back to very good levels of tactile response; it feels every bit as powerful as when I had two PSA V1800 subs flanking each side of the couch, so this sub can dish out some serious bass, though having the orientation inverted with the port on top probably helps to some extent.

I have two miniDSP’s HD that are collecting dust, so I may get them out again for the next sub build. The iNuke DSP is OK, but not particularly feature rich for handling a lot of custom PEQ functions.

My PSA subs definitely inspired me to try a similar form factor. The Marty cube is still a bit bigger though than a PSA V1801, which is really in between the micro Marty and cube size. I love the compact form factor of the PSA’s. Back when I had four PSA subs with one in each corner, I always thought it was awesome you could have such powerful subs spread around the room and not have them be a vertical eye sore for improved WAF.

Most PSA subs aren’t known for their particularly WAF friendly industrial/satin black finish (which I love), but their form factor definitely is appealing. It was nice to be able to pick any color to finish the sub, and I really like how the Marty matches my room with the dark brown Java Bean paint I used. However, I can’t get close with a roller and brush to the finish on PSA gear that is extremely durable and very professional, and they reflect back almost no light in a theater room. I also just added a 20”x20” glass table top for the sub to hold a lamp and wireless router.

I’d love to fit a couple Mini Marty subs in room, which are about double the volume of the Marty Cube, but placement flexibility at my current house is too important...hoping to have a sweet man cave at the next residence. This DIY thing is legit!
What Primer and Paint did you use?

Were they rattle cans or a paint sprayer?

The finish looks really good.

You said you just used Spackle for the holes and imperfections?

I am getting ready to finish my DIY Woofers and I have not decided on how to finish them. I want a no gloss black.

Great Project you have completed, I love your PSA set up. I had there MTM-210's when they first came out. I still use 2 of their XS-30's and love them.
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post #8 of 19 Old 06-19-2018, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Marty Sub with Dayton 460HO Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by majek 60 View Post
What Primer and Paint did you use?



Were they rattle cans or a paint sprayer?



The finish looks really good.



You said you just used Spackle for the holes and imperfections?



I am getting ready to finish my DIY Woofers and I have not decided on how to finish them. I want a no gloss black.



Great Project you have completed, I love your PSA set up. I had there MTM-210's when they first came out. I still use 2 of their XS-30's and love them.

Thanks for the complement on the finish. It actually looks pretty good in person too, but there are subtle seams in a few spots that don’t show in pictures, but I think it turned out pretty darn good for a first time build. It’s something I’m proud of, but I wouldn’t put it next to a Nathan Funk sub, lol.

I just used Sherwin Williams latex paint, bought two small samples from Lowe’s from a swatch I liked and one jar was barely enough for two coats (I’d get two if you use samples just in case), and two coats of Bulls Eye 2 primer/sealer; applied with a 6” roller with 1/2” nap, isn’t a very durable finish, but this sub is out of harm’s way. I just put spackle in the brad nail holes/seams, and sanded after a couple hours dry time. If you’re careful during the build, shouldn’t have too much else to fill.

If I could easily replicate the PSA finish at home I would have done that to match, but the Java Bean brown had a little added WAF.

I’m about to start my second build with a 15” 390HO in a 3.5 cu ft box also tuned to 20Hz, got the MDF today but will be another fairly slow process with work schedule and summer temperatures; however, this build should be a bit easier than the Marty cube and it’ll be almost out of sight, so will try not to be OCD about its finish and just slap it together and maybe throw some spray paint on it. Just making a long and slim box for directly behind the recliner/MLP.

Good luck on your subs!
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Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast

Last edited by Sekosche; 06-19-2018 at 12:43 PM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
Thanks for the complement on the finish. It actually looks pretty good in person too, but there are subtle seams in a few spots that don’t show in pictures, but I think it turned out pretty darn good for a first time build. It’s something I’m proud of, but I wouldn’t put it next to a Nathan Funk sub, lol.

I just used Sherwin Williams latex paint, bought two small samples from Lowe’s from a swatch I liked and one jar was barely enough for two coats (I’d get two if you use samples just in case), and two coats of Bulls Eye 2 primer/sealer; applied with a 6” roller with 1/2” nap, isn’t a very durable finish, but this sub is out of harm’s way. I just put spackle in the brad nail holes/seams, and sanded after a couple hours dry time. If you’re careful during the build, shouldn’t have too much else to fill.

If I could easily replicate the PSA finish at home I would have done that to match, but the Java Bean brown had a little added WAF.

I’m about to start my second build with a 15” 390HO in a 3.5 cu ft box also tuned to 20Hz, got the MDF today but will be another fairly slow process with work schedule and summer temperatures; however, this build should be a bit easier than the Marty cube and it’ll be almost out of sight, so will try not to be OCD about its finish and just slap it together and maybe throw some spray paint on it. Just making a long and slim box for directly behind the recliner/MLP.

Good luck on your subs!
I actually built woofers, not subs. They complement my Dynaudio C1's quite well. The C1's are now crossed at 225Hz. The woofer from 40 - 225. They are a 13" Driver from Scanspeak.

Good luck with your next project!!
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post #10 of 19 Old 06-19-2018, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majek 60 View Post
I actually built woofers, not subs. They complement my Dynaudio C1's quite well. The C1's are now crossed at 225Hz. The woofer from 40 - 225. They are a 13" Driver from Scanspeak.



Good luck with your next project!!

Ah, sweet woofers! Looks great.

A mat black latex should complement your C1’s nicely and not be too reflective.
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Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast
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Sekosche, Very nice job on the sub, especially the finish. I'm really liking the unconventional color choice.
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post #12 of 19 Old 06-20-2018, 01:55 AM
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Great minds think alike....... Nice color...Mine is Espresso Bean.....



Juju
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Great minds think alike....... Nice color...Mine is Espresso Bean.....







Juju


Nice, it matches your walls great! Is that subwoofer camouflage?

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast
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Nice, it matches your walls great! Is that subwoofer camouflage?
Yes sir...... it sits right under my screen and disappears at movie time.....

Juju
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-24-2019, 02:27 PM
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Sorry to resurrect your thread, but for a beginner like me its paradise. your detail and explanations have given me the confidence to give it a go.

i have some very dumb questions please permit me

1. The front baffle wall is 2 pieces (i believe 16.69 in diameter). whats the diameter of the 3 baffle which i believe is where the driver is screwed too?

2. whats the dimension of the little pieces of wood you used for bracing or does it matter? from the pictures it looks like you had 8 pieces, does it have to be that exact amount?

3. i plan to use a crown xls 1000 or 1500 bridged (1100W/1550W). Would you still recommend going with a RSS460HO-4 over a UM18-22 in a marty cube enclosure?

Thanks again
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Theater:JVC RS440, Elite 120". 7.1.4:RTi8, CSi5, FXiA4, RTiA3, 620-RT(4) & SVS PB12-NSD. Denon X4300H, UPA-700, Crown XLS1502 & XLS1000(2). Sony UBP-X800, Panasonic DP-UB424, Shield & ATV 4K. Lounge:Vizio M70-D3, Benq HT1075, & Elite 106". 7.1.4:RTi12, CSi5, RTiA1, TSx110, MC60(4), & RBH I-12. Marantz AV7702, Crown XLS1500, XLS1000(2) & Amp 100v2(2). Samsung UBD-K8500, LG BP440, Shield & ATV
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post #16 of 19 Old 05-24-2019, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shyyour View Post
Sorry to resurrect your thread, but for a beginner like me its paradise. your detail and explanations have given me the confidence to give it a go.



i have some very dumb questions please permit me



1. The front baffle wall is 2 pieces (i believe 16.69 in diameter). whats the diameter of the 3 baffle which i believe is where the driver is screwed too?



2. whats the dimension of the little pieces of wood you used for bracing or does it matter? from the pictures it looks like you had 8 pieces, does it have to be that exact amount?



3. i plan to use a crown xls 1000 or 1500 bridged (1100W/1550W). Would you still recommend going with a RSS460HO-4 over a UM18-22 in a marty cube enclosure?



Thanks again

Glad my first ever build thread helped! It was definitely a learning experience filled with little mistakes, part of the process really. I learned a lot from the DIY tip pages, and that helped to minimize most of them.

Inner little ring I made was 16.7” inner diameter and about 19.7” outer diameter, so it’d fit the driver cut out with about 1.5” for width for the screws to bite into. You can just use little scrap pieces of 0.5-0.75” wood and glue them around the inner driver cut out where the screws will go to give them a little more meat to dig into, probably a bit easier as I’ve done that on a couple builds.

The bracing dowel rods are 1” thick, but I can’t recall their length, measured after I inserted the inner piece of MDF window bracing, which I believe the window was just a duplicate of the outer baffle to brace the middle. I just roughly measured the dowel rods length and kept trimming them each down to fit snugly with glue.

The UM-18 wasn’t available when I built mine, and the 460HO was about $100 cheaper on sale, so it was an easy decision for me. I felt the UM-18 would have been a little cramped in a Marty cube and takes away a lot of the advantage of such a higher excursion driver; that said, it will have a few more dB maximum output capability right around tuning in a cube, but really needs a much larger box to stretch its ULF legs. The 460HO was a great fit and has excellent sound quality; it’s really not a lesser driver by any means, just different in its purpose with a bit less excursion and more upper bass efficiency. The 460HO is an excellent sounding driver for the money in a Marty cube!

Buy whichever driver suits your wallet/availability, and I bet you’ll be happy. Good luck and thanks for the questions, hope it helps!

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast
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post #17 of 19 Old 05-25-2019, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
Glad my first ever build thread helped! It was definitely a learning experience filled with little mistakes, part of the process really. I learned a lot from the DIY tip pages, and that helped to minimize most of them.

Inner little ring I made was 16.7” inner diameter and about 19.7” outer diameter, so it’d fit the driver cut out with about 1.5” for width for the screws to bite into. You can just use little scrap pieces of 0.5-0.75” wood and glue them around the inner driver cut out where the screws will go to give them a little more meat to dig into, probably a bit easier as I’ve done that on a couple builds.

The bracing dowel rods are 1” thick, but I can’t recall their length, measured after I inserted the inner piece of MDF window bracing, which I believe the window was just a duplicate of the outer baffle to brace the middle. I just roughly measured the dowel rods length and kept trimming them each down to fit snugly with glue.

The UM-18 wasn’t available when I built mine, and the 460HO was about $100 cheaper on sale, so it was an easy decision for me. I felt the UM-18 would have been a little cramped in a Marty cube and takes away a lot of the advantage of such a higher excursion driver; that said, it will have a few more dB maximum output capability right around tuning in a cube, but really needs a much larger box to stretch its ULF legs. The 460HO was a great fit and has excellent sound quality; it’s really not a lesser driver by any means, just different in its purpose with a bit less excursion and more upper bass efficiency. The 460HO is an excellent sounding driver for the money in a Marty cube!

Buy whichever driver suits your wallet/availability, and I bet you’ll be happy. Good luck and thanks for the questions, hope it helps!
Yes it does help tremendously, i was initially stumped on how the ring was done. i will probably go with the UM-18 as its the cheaper of the two now (albeit just by $6) but i plan to get an NX6000D down the road.

Is there a measurement for placement of the inner MDF bracing?

thanks again

Theater:JVC RS440, Elite 120". 7.1.4:RTi8, CSi5, FXiA4, RTiA3, 620-RT(4) & SVS PB12-NSD. Denon X4300H, UPA-700, Crown XLS1502 & XLS1000(2). Sony UBP-X800, Panasonic DP-UB424, Shield & ATV 4K. Lounge:Vizio M70-D3, Benq HT1075, & Elite 106". 7.1.4:RTi12, CSi5, RTiA1, TSx110, MC60(4), & RBH I-12. Marantz AV7702, Crown XLS1500, XLS1000(2) & Amp 100v2(2). Samsung UBD-K8500, LG BP440, Shield & ATV
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-25-2019, 05:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Marty Sub with Dayton 460HO Build

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Originally Posted by shyyour View Post
Yes it does help tremendously, i was initially stumped on how the ring was done. i will probably go with the UM-18 as its the cheaper of the two now (albeit just by $6) but i plan to get an NX6000D down the road.



Is there a measurement for placement of the inner MDF bracing?



thanks again

I don’t have a measurement for the window brace placement; stick it about halfway between the front and back walls, add a few dowel rods on both sides, and run a nice bead of PL Premium along the top when you close it up, and you’ll be good. Mine feels like it could survive a bomb blast. With bracing, you can just wing it for the most part; a little bracing placed appropriately goes a long ways to strengthen smallish enclosures of this size (compared to a full Marty).

The NX6D is well suited to power a pair of UM-18’s...should you feel the need to add one down the line.

Good luck!

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast

Last edited by Sekosche; 05-25-2019 at 05:36 AM.
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-25-2019, 12:00 PM
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I don’t have a measurement for the window brace placement; stick it about halfway between the front and back walls, add a few dowel rods on both sides, and run a nice bead of PL Premium along the top when you close it up, and you’ll be good. Mine feels like it could survive a bomb blast. With bracing, you can just wing it for the most part; a little bracing placed appropriately goes a long ways to strengthen smallish enclosures of this size (compared to a full Marty).

The NX6D is well suited to power a pair of UM-18’s...should you feel the need to add one down the line.

Good luck!
thanks a lot, much appreciated
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Theater:JVC RS440, Elite 120". 7.1.4:RTi8, CSi5, FXiA4, RTiA3, 620-RT(4) & SVS PB12-NSD. Denon X4300H, UPA-700, Crown XLS1502 & XLS1000(2). Sony UBP-X800, Panasonic DP-UB424, Shield & ATV 4K. Lounge:Vizio M70-D3, Benq HT1075, & Elite 106". 7.1.4:RTi12, CSi5, RTiA1, TSx110, MC60(4), & RBH I-12. Marantz AV7702, Crown XLS1500, XLS1000(2) & Amp 100v2(2). Samsung UBD-K8500, LG BP440, Shield & ATV
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