Twins! (Albeit almost 3 years apart...) - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 19 Old 05-15-2018, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Twins! (Albeit almost 3 years apart...)

OK, compared to most of the builds going on here lately this will be pretty tame - You are dismissed if you don't care about an Infinity 1260w build (technically, my 3rd)

I decided to build a modified version of https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...gn-thread.html that I'm sure many of you are familiar with (I will have another build thread for that). As these builds are going in our living room I need to be judicious with regard to size and finish, and placement will be less than ideal. This thread will cover the reuse of the 1260w from the first build in my signature to create a twin of the second in my signature.

So, on with the show! (This will go pretty fast, I promise)

Obligatory shot of the panels all cut to dimension. The final outside dimensions will be 19"H x 17" W x 20" D, slot port of 1.5" x 10" x 25", giving a tune of right around 25Hz according to WinISD.



Inner and outer baffles with holes cut (plunge router with homemade circle jig), 1/4" round over on the inside of the outer baffle and a quick shot of black spray paint.



Slot port built and glued/stapled in place. I had painted the inside of the port black when I painted the baffles. I use standard Titebond and either a 1/4" crown stapler or 18Ga brad nailer for my builds (prefer the stapler for more hold, but then you have to deal with larger holes when filling). Caulk on the inside seams.



Sides on, I caulked these seams as well as the front seams before putting the top on. One difference between this build and it's twin was I decided to not cut the front baffle around the port (more on that later).



Both baffles in place with some clamps holding while glue sets. I used no bracing in these as they are small, we'll see how this one holds up as I do notice some seams now in the original.



Round overs on edges, sanded, most seams/staple holes filled with wood filler. Need to go over it one more time with the random orbital. I mentioned earlier I didn't cut the inner baffle around the port? It's no fun hogging out a full 1.5" of MDF with a straight bit in a router!

NOTE: Anyone not familiar with MDF should know that working with it creates a very fine dust, that gets everywhere. I recommend cutting/sanding outside if at all possible, and always wear a mask. It's nasty...



Duratex time. I was very happy with the result I got from Restore 4X when I did the first sub, but this stuff is 10x better. After painting this one with a 1/2" nap 9" roller and comparing it to the original build, it's amazing how black this stuff is. Shot of the texture.



Full frontal, for you sub pr0n fans... It looks more grey here due to the light in the workshop, and the seam on top filled in much better with the last coat of Duratex.



And lastly, with it's almost 3 year-old brother. I put 3 coats of Duratex on the new build, 2 on the original to make them match. That stuff is crazy thick and I probably didn't need that many coats, but it took me a little while to figure out how to work it with a roller. Probably try spraying it next time.



That's it! I haven't had a chance to run sweeps with REW yet, hope to do that this weekend.

Another big thanks to all that contribute here and give inspiration to all of us that don't know much, if anything, about speaker/sub design. And those that do...
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post #2 of 19 Old 05-15-2018, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 19 Old 05-15-2018, 06:04 PM
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Nice work! If they sound half as good as they look you should be very happy!
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post #4 of 19 Old 05-16-2018, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Jk. Have to admit I already knew how it would sound from the first build, but I haven't run any sweeps with the 2 of them yet. Will be able to do that this weekend I hope, as I have the other build in place now as well.
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-16-2018, 06:21 PM
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Designed a ported 1260W Infinity for a friend of mine two years ago or so... A lot of bang for the buck!
Looks a lot like your with a slotted port... Ended up tuned to 23Hz or something..

Great work!

Humble Music / HT in Livingroom: Yamaha RX-V771, 2x Yamaha P7000S Amps, Statement II Mains & Center, Custom Vifa NE149 surrounds, 2x Dayton RSS390 Sealed Subs. Visuals: Epson TW3700 Projector / Euroscreen 104" grey motorized. + Iiyama ProLite LE4840S Backlit Samsung VA-panel.
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post #6 of 19 Old 05-16-2018, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Daniel_SV View Post
Designed a ported 1260W Infinity for a friend of mine two years ago or so... A lot of bang for the buck!
Looks a lot like your with a slotted port... Ended up tuned to 23Hz or something..

Great work!
Thanks! Hope yours turned out as well.
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post #7 of 19 Old 05-17-2018, 01:54 AM
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Thanks! Hope yours turned out as well.
Actually went to his place two weeks ago with a miniDSP and my uMIK and did some measurements as he felt something was off...
Not the subs fault at all, just a big fat null that was solved by moving the subs and some EQ required to flatten response, and add some delay to make it blend.

He could not be happier!
I hope you are as happy with yours, I just wish the drivers were still available since they were my go-to for smaller, high price/performance sub builds.
Not sure there is a driver could replace them over here.

Humble Music / HT in Livingroom: Yamaha RX-V771, 2x Yamaha P7000S Amps, Statement II Mains & Center, Custom Vifa NE149 surrounds, 2x Dayton RSS390 Sealed Subs. Visuals: Epson TW3700 Projector / Euroscreen 104" grey motorized. + Iiyama ProLite LE4840S Backlit Samsung VA-panel.
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post #8 of 19 Old 04-09-2019, 09:26 PM
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Excellent job! This is my first post - I bought a used crown cdi 1000 on craigslist with the intention of powering two passive subs. I was planning on building 2 12" subwoofers. (wanted to try and clone a pb2000) I've spent the last week learning how to use winISD and had become very discouraged. Every scenario had way too much rear port air speed. I could only get acceptable levels with a 5" round port that was 27" long. This still wasn't below 17 m/s. plus that pipe and a 90 degree corner are kind of expensive. Long story short - after seeing your subs I'm going to build a slot port. Your subs look like exactly what I want. If you were going to build them today, what driver would you use? I'd like the net internal volume to be around 3.5 cubic feet.
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post #9 of 19 Old 04-09-2019, 10:15 PM
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FWIW, I've built a 3.5 cft cab tuned to 20 hz with the JBL CS1214/CX1200 driver. I think it is the go to in place of the Infinities. Not a flat frequency response but not terrible either.
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post #10 of 19 Old 04-10-2019, 04:07 PM
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FWIW, I've built a 3.5 cft cab tuned to 20 hz with the JBL CS1214/CX1200 driver. I think it is the go to in place of the Infinities. Not a flat frequency response but not terrible either.
Thank you for the recommendation. I see that sub online for only $49.99. Its a lot cheaper than the Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 I was going to get from parts express. You have no concerns with me giving it 500 watts?
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post #11 of 19 Old 04-10-2019, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Didn't expect this post to get revived, but here we are!

Yes, AFAIK the current King of the Hill for 12", low-cost subwoofer drivers are the JBL-Gx/Cx series. I personally haven't built anything with them, but have read many threads with good results.

If you can push the box size to 4.0+ you might look into the UM12-22. I have builds using those in my sig.
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post #12 of 19 Old 04-10-2019, 08:33 PM
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I love the look of the ultimax drivers! I see Zarkoff500 used an ultimax 18 in his end table build. I'm not planning on any speaker grilles so I may have to consider the ultimax. Did you use some type of polyfill or matress topper in your 12" ultimax build? (trying to decide if I need to use it) How does that box and driver compare to the infiniti ones? when I modeled the JBL in winiSD the driver cone excursion exceeded the xmax by quite a bit. Will this sound bad and/or damage the driver?
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-10-2019, 08:46 PM
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I know you put mattress topper in the 32.5" long ultimax just not sure about the end table build?
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post #14 of 19 Old 04-11-2019, 07:38 AM
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I know you put mattress topper in the 32.5" long ultimax just not sure about the end table build?
I put polyfill in the UM18 Marty Cube end table. I used some speaker cloth to keep the polyfill in the area behind the brace to ensure it didn't get into the driver. For the 3.5 cft JBL CS1214 which I also made down firing, I just used insulation stapled to the sides of the enclosure.
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post #15 of 19 Old 04-11-2019, 07:42 AM
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Thank you for the recommendation. I see that sub online for only $49.99. Its a lot cheaper than the Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 I was going to get from parts express. You have no concerns with me giving it 500 watts?
500 puts the driver at risk below tuning with that much juice at full tilt or for large dynamic peaks. If you keep volume low it would likely be ok but you would have to be careful. I stuck with a 240/250 watt Dayton plate amp which is about a perfect combo.
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post #16 of 19 Old 04-11-2019, 08:40 AM
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Okay, I'm going to use some type of stuffing on the walls. I appreciate you guys taking the time to help me! I have three more questions. (for now at least)
1. Did you, and should I, use use speaker gasketing tape?
2 Can I just use screws to mount the driver or do I need to use screws and self piercing spiked "T" nuts on the inside.
3. I used an online volume calculator to find the driver displacement of a 12" dayton audio reference sub (RSS315HF-4). It came out with 108.7 cubic inches. Does that sound like its accurate?
Again, thank you!
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post #17 of 19 Old 04-11-2019, 11:59 AM
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1. Did you, and should I, use use speaker gasketing tape? It won't hurt. Most drivers come with some already installed.
2 Can I just use screws to mount the driver or do I need to use screws and self piercing spiked "T" nuts on the inside. For MDF, some hardwood or plywood blocks glued to the underside are a safe bet. I've used both and the "t" style is more work and not necessary unless you are removing the driver a lot.
3. I used an online volume calculator to find the driver displacement of a 12" dayton audio reference sub (RSS315HF-4). It came out with 108.7 cubic inches. Does that sound like its accurate? Sounds about right. Pretty minimal in terms of changes to box volume and tuning.
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post #18 of 19 Old 04-14-2019, 11:16 AM
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Years ago, wasn't somebody supposed to upload a video of a 1260w being bottomed and melted by a FP14k?
I can't put my finger on it, but there is just something attractive about watching stuff being way overpowered and then annihilated...
The wall-socket videos are so boring though! It must be done solely on music-power!!!
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post #19 of 19 Old 04-14-2019, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Years ago, wasn't somebody supposed to upload a video of a 1260w being bottomed and melted by a FP14k?
I can't put my finger on it, but there is just something attractive about watching stuff being way overpowered and then annihilated...
The wall-socket videos are so boring though! It must be done solely on music-power!!!
No idea where this came from, but my 1260ws are doing just fine. I can only give them ~300 watts each as the cabs they are in model xmax at about that level. Have no interest in melting them.

To @needbetterbass - Yes, I have lined all of my subs with 1-1/2" mattress topper. Not sure it makes any difference in cabs this small, but I have not experienced any ill effects in doing so.
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