Modified V.B.S.S. build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 21 Old 05-15-2018, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Modified V.B.S.S. build

About a month ago I decided to build a new subwoofer to replace one of my 1260 builds (first in my sig). So I've been busy with 2 simultaneous builds, one with the PA-460 and the other to re-purpose the 1260 it will replace. This thread will cover the former.

As noted in the "Twins!" build in my sig, these are in a living room, so not ideal. But as most of you know, once you get the itch you have to scratch it, so I adjusted the original VBSS design to fit the same footprint as my first build (we already had the granite top for it and I needed to re-purpose that as well).

Panels cut. My modification is a box 27"H x 30.5"W x 19"D, which still gives me close to the original design's gross volume. I could have gone slightly shorter but wanted to add a bit of a kick plate.



Notched the bottom, attached back and sides and added the kick plate.



Hole cut in inner baffle, notched and attached (with some bracing).



Here's where I need to give a shout out to those that have dealt/do deal with figuring out the Jenga that is bracing. I didn't figure it would be a big deal, just add it as you go. WRONG! You need to plan this part as well, otherwise you'll find that you can't get it in place, or you can't fasten it without gymnastic-like contortions. Luckily I'm a skinny guy and can fit in tight spots, but getting tools into place for fastening got ugly.



Top fastened and birch veneer applied, into the "clean" room we go for stain/poly.



Stole the "floating" double baffle idea from one of @corradizo 's builds (Thanks again!). 1/2" MDF cut down to expose a bit of the birch veneer, covered with 3 coats of Duratex. Can't have enough clamps...



Carcass finished, just have to wire and mount the driver.



Had to get a pic with the empty beer can for reference, folks that I work with didn't understand the size of this thing. But then again, they don't hang out on AVS...



And with the re-purposed granite top. I think the colors on it work well with the cabinet.



As always, huge thanks to all that share the information that makes it possible for us to build these babies!

Scott
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post #2 of 21 Old 05-15-2018, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 21 Old 05-15-2018, 07:52 PM
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Nice!! I love seeing something different than a black box! (see my sig)
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post #4 of 21 Old 05-15-2018, 08:41 PM
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Love it! Good job. Wish I had the patience to dress up my speakers like that.
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post #5 of 21 Old 05-15-2018, 09:56 PM
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FTR - which tuning is that ?
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post #6 of 21 Old 05-15-2018, 10:03 PM
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post #7 of 21 Old 05-16-2018, 04:51 AM
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Nice job! That turned out great, I really like the black baffle with the birch veneer.
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post #8 of 21 Old 05-16-2018, 05:14 AM
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Does this have a port?

Originally I thought the area under the driver was the port.
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post #9 of 21 Old 05-16-2018, 05:15 AM
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Great job. Its amazing to see this build. I built nearly this exact sub this weekend with the PA380. I posted the build on DIYSoundgroup Enthusiasts yesterday. Its uncanny how similar these two builds are. Id post a pic here, but dont know how, GREAT JOB
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post #10 of 21 Old 05-16-2018, 06:49 AM
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That thing is beautiful. How do you do the veneer? Do you get it at the box store? How is it applied and how to you deal with the edges/corners? Sorry for the questions. It's an impressive piece of work and I'd love to know how to do that.
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post #11 of 21 Old 05-16-2018, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. It was fun, and actually an easier build than those I had done in the past, I apologize for not mentioning it in the original post:

It has a single 4" Precision port at full length which would by the original design give it a 15Hz tune. Because of my modifications and placement - It's on the right side, rear in the last 2 pics, can't see it, but if you would like pics I have them - my initial measurements tell me I get an F3 of about 16.5Hz.

I still have to spend some time taking measurements and integrating them (I have one helluva null in the 95 - 125 range that is ticking me off right now) but when I do I will put them in the 2nd post. I'm hoping to get a umik-1 from Cross-Spectrum but I see they are still having some problems with their equipment.

@jcmccorm - I used to deal with laminate/veneer on a daily basis when I was remodeling kitchens and bathrooms (over 25 years). This post probably isn't the place to discuss methods but if you need tips PM me and I will respond. It is not difficult so if others are wondering, and nobody objects, I can spell out my methods in this thread.
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post #12 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 05:08 AM
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Thanks smcmillan2, I certainly don't mind if you post methods and tips. I want to learn. And, this is the DIY forum If anyone objects, I'll PM.
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post #13 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 06:02 AM
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What he said. Teach us how man.
Thanks
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post #14 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmccorm View Post
Thanks smcmillan2, I certainly don't mind if you post methods and tips. I want to learn. And, this is the DIY forum If anyone objects, I'll PM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tk123
What he said. Teach us how man.
Thanks
Okey dokey! The quick rundown (applies to both veneer and laminate):

* Fill any large nail/staple holes, let dry, sand smooth (I like my belt sander for this, but random orbital does the job too).
* Cut material about 1" over the size of the piece you are covering, for about 1/2" overhang all around.
* Apply contact adhesive to veneer and the piece you are covering, making sure the edges get a good coating.
* Let stand until adhesive is no longer tacky to the touch of your finger (but not completely dry, ~10 minutes)
* Align one edge of the veneer with the edge of the cabinet - Just the edge. Once the adhesive has a hold it will be near impossible to move without destroying it. For first-timers and large pieces you can place dowel rods across the piece to be covered, close enough to each other so that any material sagging won't contact the cabinet. Lay the veneer over the rods, tack one edge (remember to allow for the overhang) then work the dowels out from there, smoothing by hand as you go. Careful not to press too hard around any holes (eg. the driver hole).
* Trim. I use laminate trimmers such as https://www.amazon.com/Makita-3709-4.../dp/B001JEOW7S with different bits - First for flush (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-Solid...im-Bit/1084639), then on those edges against another veneered surface with a bevel (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-Solid...im-Bit/1082823). I use lightweight painter's tape on the edge when running the trim bits over a veneered surface to protect it.
* Rolling - I use a J roller (https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-7101...Q052F7RDS1T52D) for both laminate and veneer. Don't have to get too crazy with the pressure, just make sure you go over all the surface to get the adhesive stuck everywhere. Be sure to get the edges.
* Sand the edges of the uncovered part of the cabinet down to get the veneer flush/smooth on the next piece to be covered
* Same steps as above re: apply adhesive, apply veneer, trim to the other parts, roll
* Sand, stain, finish as you would a solid piece of wood.

For this build I veneered both sides first (at the same time), sanded the front, applied veneer to the front, then sanded the back and top so everything was smooth. Then I orbital sanded the veneered parts to get the edges smooth, then over the edges with a file to knock the sharpness off of them.

This video covers the basics pretty well. Jump to about the 4:10 mark (he doesn't appear to use the bevel bit or a file, but that's personal preference):

(So much for quick, I think this was longer than my original post! )
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post #15 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 10:21 AM
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I thank you for that info! That saves me a lot of time and money on mistakes. It is much appreciated. I never would've thought of the dowels to keep the veneer off the surface while you're lining it up. (well, all of that is new to me, but the dowel trick is pretty clever).
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post #16 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 02:33 PM
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Thanks smc.
Just a few questions about materials.
What do you use to fill holes/seams with ? What contact adhesive do you use ? What veneers/laminates do you use and where do you get them ? Links to any of the above would be nice if possible.
I’be looked at the veneer rolls on Parts Express, thinking about using them. But, not really having any experience with this, I’m not sure if that’s what I actually need. Thanks again. Beautiful work you do there.
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post #17 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tk123 View Post
Thanks smc.
Just a few questions about materials.
What do you use to fill holes/seams with ? What contact adhesive do you use ? What veneers/laminates do you use and where do you get them ? Links to any of the above would be nice if possible.
I’be looked at the veneer rolls on Parts Express, thinking about using them. But, not really having any experience with this, I’m not sure if that’s what I actually need. Thanks again. Beautiful work you do there.

Ha! Same questions I had.
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post #18 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 04:27 PM
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inexperienced wrt real veneer - so I went with the selfstick white oak roll I got at Rockler

the "quick rundown" summary- excellent advice for the disciplined
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post #19 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tk123 View Post
Thanks smc.
Just a few questions about materials.
What do you use to fill holes/seams with ?
I use wood filler, available pretty much anywhere. DAP, Famowood, etc. Just make sure it dries thoroughly before sanding (usually less than 1 hour, unless you're filling a small crater).

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Originally Posted by tk123 View Post
What contact adhesive do you use ?
When I was doing this a lot (way back when) I used the spray grade Lokweld. Not sure I've seen that available to the general public. These days I use DAP Weldwood, which is also available in a non-flammable version (although it takes longer to set up and I don't feel gives quite the same amount of hold early on in the process).

Quote:
Originally Posted by tk123 View Post
What veneers/laminates do you use and where do you get them ? Links to any of the above would be nice if possible.
As I no longer have a local supplier I rely on what I find online. Home Depot/Lowes/etc offer some choices, I believe they are special order (last laminate sheets I purchased from HD were anyway). For this build I ordered the birch veneer through Menards and was very pleased with it, but a quick Google for "[insert species here] veneer" will produce numerous results. I don't work with it enough these days to have a preferred supplier.

Note that the vast majority of the veneers you find online will be paper-backed. I typically prefer non-backed, but it is much more finicky to work with and I would not recommend it for first timers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tk123 View Post
I’be looked at the veneer rolls on Parts Express, thinking about using them. But, not really having any experience with this, I’m not sure if that’s what I actually need.
I didn't realize PE handled veneer. I am not familiar with the Band-It brand but based on the reviews I'm sure it would serve you well. Quite honestly, unless you're getting into the exotics you will find pretty similar offerings out there. The roll I ended up with was this: https://www.menards.com/main/kitchen...6525695098.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by tk123 View Post
Thanks again. Beautiful work you do there.
My pleasure, and thanks for the compliment. With some experience it is a pretty straightforward process and once you have the process figured out then the creative juices can start flowing.

Get enough veneer to be able to work a small test piece with and try out the process first. You'll learn things that will apply to your build and become more comfortable with the process.
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post #20 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
inexperienced wrt real veneer - so I went with the selfstick white oak roll I got at Rockler
I've not used any self-stick products. Real wood veneer? Assume it's a peel-and-stick product that you smooth on by hand as you peel? That should work as well, yours looks very nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247
the "quick rundown" summary- excellent advice for the disciplined
Thanks, not quite as quick as I may have led on. But it really does go fast once you have the process down. And having the right tools for the job is a huge help, obviously...
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post #21 of 21 Old 05-17-2018, 05:31 PM
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Cool. Thanks again smc.
I actually have a sub in my truck that’s plain MDF right now. I’m also getting ready to build another. Might be good test beds for veneer 👍
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