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post #1 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Nearfield sub options

So it seems like the nearfield topic has been brought up a lot recently but everybody had already had a driver in mind (for the most part) but I am looking for opinions from people who have them and which they liked the best. I'm just trying to see what people like to use and what produces more tactile response. Does a high SPL pro driver like a PA460 or a high XMAX driver like a 18UM produce more tactile feel? Along with that would be higher frequency (40-80 hz) chest kick feel (pro driver) vs low frequency (20-40 hz) produce more tactile? a couple large (18") drivers or multiple smaller drivers?

If this has been discussed I'm sorry for the repeat, when I searched the forums I didn't really come up with any discussions of multiple options from people have have tried/demo multiple setups.

I am finishing up my second ported 15UM within the next two weeks and want to start thinking about my nearfield options to start box designs.
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post #2 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
So it seems like the nearfield topic has been brought up a lot recently but everybody had already had a driver in mind (for the most part) but I am looking for opinions from people who have them and which they liked the best. I'm just trying to see what people like to use and what produces more tactile response. Does a high SPL pro driver like a PA460 or a high XMAX driver like a 18UM produce more tactile feel? Along with that would be higher frequency (40-80 hz) chest kick feel (pro driver) vs low frequency (20-40 hz) produce more tactile? a couple large (18") drivers or multiple smaller drivers?

If this has been discussed I'm sorry for the repeat, when I searched the forums I didn't really come up with any discussions of multiple options from people have have tried/demo multiple setups.

I am finishing up my second ported 15UM within the next two weeks and want to start thinking about my nearfield options to start box designs.
oh
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post #3 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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oh
Thanks Chad, your input is always so valuable
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post #4 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 08:21 AM
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Well define "tactile" for yourself. The parts of your body have varying frequencies at which certain things take place. For instance the frequency you feel in your chest is different than the one that makes the hair on your arms tingle, etc.

Most of us are normally describing tactile as BOTH of the frequency ranges your talking about (chest kick + ULF). Any drivers response can be tailored to provide tactile, however the needed tailoring of the box or wattage requirements may make it impossible for your room layout.



The better start is to post some pictures of your room, what equipment you have and what you are trying to obtain so we can give you a better starting point.

In some situations the VBSS makes more sense than the large ported UM18. In others a bunch of nearfield JBL CS1214's make more sense than VBSS or Ported UM18, etc.

Also the construction of your room makes a large difference. Tactile with concrete is a MUCH LARGER PROBLEM than on a subfloor. Also do you have a crawlspace or attic space adjacent to your room that could be used for a Infinite Baffle setup, etc.

There are too many unknown variables, both in your room constraints, and in what you are wanting to really give you the right answer for your specific scenario.

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post #5 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
Thanks Chad, your input is always so valuable
oh stop it, you dont mean that..

I am voting for 4 of the JBL CS 1214's.

or

do both PA's and JBL's. It worked well for me

you should definitely stop by this weekend and grab my JBL's for a test run.

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post #6 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Well define "tactile" for yourself. The parts of your body have varying frequencies at which certain things take place. For instance the frequency you feel in your chest is different than the one that makes the hair on your arms tingle, etc.

Most of us are normally describing tactile as BOTH of the frequency ranges your talking about (chest kick + ULF). Any drivers response can be tailored to provide tactile, however the needed tailoring of the box or wattage requirements may make it impossible for your room layout.



The better start is to post some pictures of your room, what equipment you have and what you are trying to obtain so we can give you a better starting point.

In some situations the VBSS makes more sense than the large ported UM18. In others a bunch of nearfield JBL CS1214's make more sense than VBSS or Ported UM18, etc.

Also the construction of your room makes a large difference. Tactile with concrete is a MUCH LARGER PROBLEM than on a subfloor. Also do you have a crawlspace or attic space adjacent to your room that could be used for a Infinite Baffle setup, etc.

There are too many unknown variables, both in your room constraints, and in what you are wanting to really give you the right answer for your specific scenario.
I was trying to keep it generic to get a more diverse audience but I will post some photos of my room later tonight. My situation will be unique because I only have 12"-14" of box depth. The house is a concrete slab, they almost all are in FL, and I am not installing anything difficult because I rent a house and will not be here for more than a year or 2. I had never seen the image you posted before, pretty cool study I'm sure.

I have a Inuke6000DSP just waiting to be hooked up (got a really good deal on them $295 new), both channels free right now.
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post #7 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
I was trying to keep it generic to get a more diverse audience but I will post some photos of my room later tonight. My situation will be unique because I only have 12"-14" of box depth. The house is a concrete slab, they almost all are in FL, and I am not installing anything difficult because I rent a house and will not be here for more than a year or 2. I had never seen the image you posted before, pretty cool study I'm sure.



I have a Inuke6000DSP just waiting to be hooked up (got a really good deal on them $295 new), both channels free right now.

That’s no problem as long as you have decent height and width.

I’ve got a box that holds 4 CS1214s that is 8” deep, 28” tall and 66” wide. It’s behind my sectional and works good.

I’m adding more but only cause I’m crazy and I’ve got a big open room to fill.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)
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post #8 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
That’s no problem as long as you have decent height and width.

I’ve got a box that holds 4 CS1214s that is 8” deep, 28” tall and 66” wide. It’s behind my sectional and works good.

I’m adding more but only cause I’m crazy and I’ve got a big open room to fill.
Crazy is where I'm heading I think. I want to hate on the CS1214s but don't know why. I was played around with box volume and can easily get 4cf with 28" wide, 30" tall, 12" deep. I like the idea of having more smaller subs with a wiring option to end with a 4 ohm load. 4 CS1214s would work out but 8 (see I am heading towards crazy) would result in 8 ohms.

My section couch is approx 100" wide so if I had dual double sub boxes would it be enough? I have also thought about making 2 VBSS to add in and have 1 be an end table box firing into the side of the same sectional.

Every time I start thinking I go way overboard and start plummeting down the rabbit hole...
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post #9 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
Crazy is where I'm heading I think. I want to hate on the CS1214s but don't know why. I was played around with box volume and can easily get 4cf with 28" wide, 30" tall, 12" deep. I like the idea of having more smaller subs with a wiring option to end with a 4 ohm load. 4 CS1214s would work out but 8 (see I am heading towards crazy) would result in 8 ohms.

My section couch is approx 100" wide so if I had dual double sub boxes would it be enough? I have also thought about making 2 VBSS to add in and have 1 be an end table box firing into the side of the same sectional.

Every time I start thinking I go way overboard and start plummeting down the rabbit hole...
Your in good company. I'm working my way towards builds that will get me to a total of 12 of those CS1214's and I have 16 in my possession (others are spares). 8 will nearfield, split between two boxes near two diff listening positions and the other 4 will be up front. I'd prefer to get away with what your planning buy my wife wont buy it, so I'm working around what shes ok with for my setup (link to longer thread).

What you are describing is exactly what another user has already built and he loves it. (link 1) (link 2) specs below

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......Basics are the cabs are 12x28x55 which gives 1cuft per driver and it's being driven by a Bossobass FP9K and SEQSS eq in the mix for now just until I see if they need more power which is definitely possible. If they do it'll either be a FP14K or Speakerpower SP2-8000-HT.

I haven't watched anything on em yet just some clips and it's pretty insane and I barely get them moving. I will say it's very strange to see the drivers barely move at all and yet you feel it so much. It was definitely what I wanted to accomplish.
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I am currently running sealed Rythmik 18" subs for the 40hz and lower content, and a B&C 18" pro driver ported sub (4 cu.ft.) tuned to 33hz for the 40-90hz range. For me, this combination provides good midbass punch and powerful/deep/clean low end extension. Both sub types can provide tactile feel, but each is better at a different frequency range. Kind of like a two way subwoofer as opposed to a full range subwoofer.
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post #11 of 33 Old 05-30-2018, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
Crazy is where I'm heading I think. I want to hate on the CS1214s but don't know why. I was played around with box volume and can easily get 4cf with 28" wide, 30" tall, 12" deep. I like the idea of having more smaller subs with a wiring option to end with a 4 ohm load. 4 CS1214s would work out but 8 (see I am heading towards crazy) would result in 8 ohms.

My section couch is approx 100" wide so if I had dual double sub boxes would it be enough? I have also thought about making 2 VBSS to add in and have 1 be an end table box firing into the side of the same sectional.

Every time I start thinking I go way overboard and start plummeting down the rabbit hole...
You're talking about the cheap 12 inch JBL subs?
How is 8 of those overkill?
You're not even beginninng to hit crazy.

Go pick up 16 of them. Actually, depending on price, I think you could probably swing 15-20 easily. That near field behind a large couch? Do it.

The PA460 drivers are also cheap. You can probably do 1 behind each seat easily.

I don't know the exact aesthetic you're going for, but really... you're on this subforum. Why would you limit yourself to 8 cheap 12 inch subwoofers? You're barely getting started with that.

Come on man.... Don't half ass it and then be like "I wish I had more bass... " They're cheap drivers. Go balls deep. The last thing you want is your system to actually be straining itself when it's playing at high SPL. You want those woofers barely moving, not even breaking a sweat
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post #12 of 33 Old 05-31-2018, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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You're talking about the cheap 12 inch JBL subs?
How is 8 of those overkill?
You're not even beginninng to hit crazy.

Go pick up 16 of them. Actually, depending on price, I think you could probably swing 15-20 easily. That near field behind a large couch? Do it.

The PA460 drivers are also cheap. You can probably do 1 behind each seat easily.

I don't know the exact aesthetic you're going for, but really... you're on this subforum. Why would you limit yourself to 8 cheap 12 inch subwoofers? You're barely getting started with that.

Come on man.... Don't half ass it and then be like "I wish I had more bass... " They're cheap drivers. Go balls deep. The last thing you want is your system to actually be straining itself when it's playing at high SPL. You want those woofers barely moving, not even breaking a sweat
This is exactly why I started this thread. I'm trying to find a good balance between cost, performance and quality product. For instance, 8 of these subs on sale is only 280, same cost as 1 higher quality 18" driver or 3 PA460s, but I'm looking for first hand experience with what has worked well for others and why. I have a large sectional couch which could be filled up with 12" drivers or 3 PA460s or some other option I have not come up with yet. If I went with larger drivers than I would probably have to go sealed do to space constraints.

I am not limiting myself to any or all cheap options right now but at the same time I don't need someone saying to put 3k dollars worth of subs behind the couch. I would realistically max my nearfield budget to 500 for now.
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post #13 of 33 Old 06-01-2018, 07:06 AM
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seems like the concensus so far is for JBL's or the Dayton PA subs....ive have read the MBM thread and Ive seen alot of different people use really whatever subs they happen to have on hand...

@SBuger i know you are a nearfield junky..any thoughts??

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I don't need someone saying to put 3k dollars worth of subs behind the couch.
You're the one who asked for "Nearfield sub options" You're in the wrong sub-forum for moderation....Just take a look around

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You're the one who asked for "Nearfield sub options" You're in the wrong sub-forum for moderation....Just take a look around
yeah but some want good sound without having to get a second mortgage.. some people actually have a budget to go by.

it can get a little overwhelming when someone wants a solid system and then people insist that they need 8 18's LOL

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yeah but some want good sound without having to get a second mortgage.. some people actually have a budget to go by.

it can get a little overwhelming when someone wants a solid system and then people insist that they need 8 18's LOL
8????? That will only tickle 16 on the other-hand
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I used 1 UM18 and 2 PA380s nearfield directly behind the couch. Works great for me, it is enough (barely)


So pretty close to your budget, depending on how you count the cost of the amp and materials for the cabinet.
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post #18 of 33 Old 06-02-2018, 08:08 PM
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You may want to consider a larger diameter driver for a DIY NF sub (like 21" or more). One of the best NF sub testimonials I've seen here on AVS is from @coolrda . BTW, he's the guy that introduced the forum to the use of the VibSensor app in our smartphones as a tool to measure and quantify TR. During the last couple of years, not only did he experiment with how to setup and record TR measurements to enable the most accurate and meaningful exchange of information between interested AVSers, but he also experimented with various types of subs, MAs, positions, etc in search of the best overall sonic and tactile experience. At the hobbyist level, I consider him one of the go-to guys when it comes to knowledge on ways to optimize the sonic/tactile experience.

Based on anecdotal accounts from other AVS members of large-diameter Very NearField (VNF) subs, coolrda built himself an SI HT24 VNF sub to try out. Upon completing his 24" VNF sub and briefly playing with its setup, it seems he has found bass nirvana. Here's his review from his HT24 VNF build thread.

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I had a lot of questions about the performance I could expect. I already know this is one of the baddest drivers on the planet. I've read everyone's reviews, the DIYers and commercially bought, the show reports and so I'm well aware of its performance, how dominant it can be, but, what will this do for me. How would this feel, sound, add to or subtract from the performance?

Review 9/17/17

Like always, when I get close to the end, all heck breaks loose and I’m full on head first. How many of us are 95 percent done with our rooms and will always be 95 percent done. I want instant gratification. Nevermind that its takes months to fine tune picture and sound, I expected to plug it in, throw the switch and Bam, perfect bass. Nope. No sound from the sub. So I go through the process to remedy this, the amp’s second channel was unplugged, the second sub in the prepro was off and so down the line. I was highly stressed. Its late Saturday morning, I’m having a GTG and I’m insisting on cooking and still had number of things to do. Point is its less than an ideal day to test drive the new sub. I don’t recommend it. My thought was I’m fine with the front subs, their extremely tactile now and the Crowson’s will mop up whats left. I’ll leave it off and mess with it later. Can’t see it anyway.

Ding ding. One of my friends sends the infamous Back to the Future pic. Seems my son was at his house and bragged about the 24. Great. Back in the room. Ok, you know what? I’m gonna let Audyssey do its thing and hopefully get me close enough and I'll do the rest after. Audyssey has never let me down.

Audyssey let me down. At this point MiniDSP was in pass thru mode. Trying to set levels by ear proved difficult. Audy was worse. Trying to match gain at the start of Audyssey setup was impossible. One click on the amps rotary gain knob raised the volume from too low at 69db to 91db. One click. Something's wrong here. I ended up using the tone knob as a fine gain. That's what it works like. I finally got both subs balanced, though it was all front, no rear. While that was expected, 6 voice coils vs 1, I didn't expect the sound to be so different when compared to all previous sub configs. With both sub 1 & 2 in the green/75db range Audyssey finished and errored out, no subwoofer 2. Tried it 2 more times, same result. So I cranked sub 2, the 24 up to 92 db. Now it recognized sub 2, with a 17db advantage then added another 8db. Frankly it sounded like garbage. I checked distances and fronts were 16ft. They are 10ft and prior to moving the new sub in, Audy always set the front subs to 10ft.
The new sub, physically about 3ft, maybe a little less, was set to 43ft. I've never had this happen in the hundreds of Audy room corrections setups run. It's like the little minions inside Audy saying, " it looks like a sub, it's shaped like one but we don't have a clue what it is". Which should have been a sign on what was to come. I moved on to Omnimic. Here I was turning knobs up and down in a frenzy trying desperately to find a workable solution. I set the distances to physical distance and set sub gains to match at the peak and set sub 1&2 to -12db. Now it sounded right or in the ballpark at least.

After 2 hours wasted, demo time with Kong. I bounce around the disc while raising the volume thinking is this thing gonna boogie or what. Then Kong fists Jackson. And me. I got drilled. Caught flush. I’m not talking about the heavy pressurized feeling I get with the 18’s. The diving in the pool or popping the ears. No. This is getting punched in the nose! Much different than the hair tingling, pants flapping. But I have never felt the skin ripple thru my body. These sensations are easily explained scientifically. Having the sheer power to pull this off is another thing all together. This is what all you owners of the 24’s have been describing. Now I understand. It stunned me. My response was what just happened. Its takes about 3 to 4 shots to comprehend whats going on. It's speed, agility and tonality is shocking. Its crushing tactile but by way of a dynamic swing so large and quick that your left wondering what just happened. Whats dumbfounding is the scale of this thing. I’m use to x amount of SPL produces x amount of TR, PR, etc. You can move the lines and ratios up and down various ways but they pretty much sound and perform as expected. Adding the Crowson really took mine up a notch. Then this 800lb Gorilla comes in, I unchain this bad boy and say do your worst big fella and it obliterates what I’ve had to date. Juggernaut is fitting. I’ve had 8x18’s nearfield in the past and theres no comparison. Theres more at play here that I need to figure out than just matching SPL.

Lastly is near field performance. If my 18’s are a shovel then this driver is the earthmover at the beginning of Avatar. It moved my seats forward an inch. Its effortless like Vince and dc mentioned above. Even with little cone travel it makes a big impression. Everything is near field with this sub. This is a UberSub. I’ve only watched the Guardians 2 and parts of Kong so I can’t comment on anything else but we’re off to good start.

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post #19 of 33 Old 06-03-2018, 02:34 AM
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This is exactly why I started this thread. I'm trying to find a good balance between cost, performance and quality product. For instance, 8 of these subs on sale is only 280, same cost as 1 higher quality 18" driver or 3 PA460s, but I'm looking for first hand experience with what has worked well for others and why. I have a large sectional couch which could be filled up with 12" drivers or 3 PA460s or some other option I have not come up with yet. If I went with larger drivers than I would probably have to go sealed do to space constraints.

I am not limiting myself to any or all cheap options right now but at the same time I don't need someone saying to put 3k dollars worth of subs behind the couch. I would realistically max my nearfield budget to 500 for now.

The JBL’s are great, i use 12 of them nearfield powered by one NU6K. Pretty much reference down to 10hz

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post #20 of 33 Old 06-04-2018, 04:25 AM - Thread Starter
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The JBL’s are great, i use 12 of them nearfield powered by one NU6K. Pretty much reference down to 10hz

Yea I think I am going to order a couple 12's to test just for scientific purposes . A buddy of mine has a pair of the JBLs behind his couch so I want to try out a different 12 since they model almost identical but have a bit more xmax and are dual 4 ohms so 8 could be wired to a final 4 ohm load and the total rms would be 2400, pretty much maxing one Inuke6000 channel.

I like the thought of more small drivers so I can spread them out as I see fit. This way I can put them all behind my couch but if somebody wants to sit in the recliner I can pull out one of the dual boxed and post it up right behind the recliner.

My boxes would not have to be angled like yours but keeping them as shallow as possible is important due to the shape of my livingroom. Do you notice any significant loss in nearfield output when you have your couch reclined like it is in the foreground of the photo and the bottom subs are that far from the couch? My couch is fixed and the back sits at a 90 deg angle from the base but I am just curious. Being that mine will be in my livingroom for the time being I will be putting something over the top of the boxes to act as shelf so nobody will know what is there until they are turned on.
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post #21 of 33 Old 06-04-2018, 04:55 AM
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Yea I think I am going to order a couple 12's to test just for scientific purposes . A buddy of mine has a pair of the JBLs behind his couch so I want to try out a different 12 since they model almost identical but have a bit more xmax and are dual 4 ohms so 8 could be wired to a final 4 ohm load and the total rms would be 2400, pretty much maxing one Inuke6000 channel.

I like the thought of more small drivers so I can spread them out as I see fit. This way I can put them all behind my couch but if somebody wants to sit in the recliner I can pull out one of the dual boxed and post it up right behind the recliner.

My boxes would not have to be angled like yours but keeping them as shallow as possible is important due to the shape of my livingroom. Do you notice any significant loss in nearfield output when you have your couch reclined like it is in the foreground of the photo and the bottom subs are that far from the couch? My couch is fixed and the back sits at a 90 deg angle from the base but I am just curious. Being that mine will be in my livingroom for the time being I will be putting something over the top of the boxes to act as shelf so nobody will know what is there until they are turned on.
I sounds pretty much the same reclined or not, as it is well within a foot away either way.

Here is one with a fixed couch and lot’s of 12"

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I concur.



Cept you don't need no riser with 16 12's an inch from your couch.


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post #22 of 33 Old 06-04-2018, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
Yea I think I am going to order a couple 12's to test just for scientific purposes . A buddy of mine has a pair of the JBLs behind his couch so I want to try out a different 12 since they model almost identical but have a bit more xmax and are dual 4 ohms so 8 could be wired to a final 4 ohm load and the total rms would be 2400, pretty much maxing one Inuke6000 channel.

You would be power starving them a little bit though. 1Ch on the iNuke6K is only about ~2K Watts. So you'd be giving them their max 250RMS rating but no bursts really which they can take 1K Watts. Could you wire them up differently to get less on 1Ch? I forget my Ohms Law.





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I like the thought of more small drivers so I can spread them out as I see fit. This way I can put them all behind my couch but if somebody wants to sit in the recliner I can pull out one of the dual boxed and post it up right behind the recliner.

I like this idea. Multiple small boxes. So when you move, you could place these boxes around the room for Frequency Smoothing. Then use your larger UM15's for near-field.
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post #23 of 33 Old 06-09-2018, 02:13 PM
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Ive always been a go big or go home kinda guy lol

4 x 24s and 2 x JTR OS pros.... if your face falls off its bot my fault lol


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post #24 of 33 Old 06-09-2018, 03:39 PM
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keep it generic to get a more diverse audience
The answer is really simple. Bass has two components to it: vibs and SPL.

Once the SPL gets above 100db, and especially above 120db (at any/all frequencies), your ability to "feel it" increases exponentially.

Putting the subs closer (nearfield) just helps increase the SPL by mitigating the distance-law issue. (More SPL with less required input power to reach it.)

The other is vibs, which you won't generally get from concrete. Typically only raised plywood floors or 2nd story rooms.

The solution:
1) More cones
2) Bigger cones
3) More amps to push them properly
4) Perhaps buttshakers and/or raised flooring.
5) Turn it up (The worst of the available options in isolation.)

If you want to break it down even further, there are two components of SPL:
Displacement and *air-pressure(dynamic).

i.e. moving a large column of air AND compressing the air really hard.

*not to be confused with static atmospheric air pressure (which is DC/0Hz) i.e. 1 ATM 14psi.

A dynamic change of 0psi to 28psi is 194-ish db if I recall correctly. i.e. vacuum to 2ATM. The loudest possible non-shockwave sound at sea level. (Explosions and sonic booms are both >194db shockwaves within the nearfield blast radius.)
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post #25 of 33 Old 06-09-2018, 03:41 PM
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Ive always been a go big or go home kinda guy lol

4 x 24s and 2 x JTR OS pros.... if your face falls off its bot my fault lol

Whatever
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post #26 of 33 Old 06-09-2018, 07:10 PM
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Ive always been a go big or go home kinda guy lol



4 x 24s and 2 x JTR OS pros.... if your face falls off its bot my fault lol





Not jelly at all. Nope!

LOL


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post #27 of 33 Old 06-10-2018, 03:47 AM
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N8dogg: I see youve moved on from what was it, 6 sealed 21s? What do you have the crossovers set to? I started the inevitable progression, 15->18->21 but recently got waylaid by cheap 12s. I think 24s are inevitable though.

OP, perhaps a mix of um18s for the ulf and then crossing over at say 40hz to a bunch of 12s. While I believe four cs1214s match a um18 down deep Im guessing they are more sensitive in the upper frequencies.
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post #28 of 33 Old 06-10-2018, 06:06 AM
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While I believe four cs1214s match a um18 down deep Im guessing they are more sensitive in the upper frequencies.

100% correct. I posted some WinISD graphs somewhere showing such.




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post #29 of 33 Old 06-10-2018, 11:37 AM
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N8dogg: I see youve moved on from what was it, 6 sealed 21s? What do you have the crossovers set to? I started the inevitable progression, 15->18->21 but recently got waylaid by cheap 12s. I think 24s are inevitable though.

OP, perhaps a mix of um18s for the ulf and then crossing over at say 40hz to a bunch of 12s. While I believe four cs1214s match a um18 down deep Im guessing they are more sensitive in the upper frequencies.

I had 8 x 21s, you just couldnt see the other 2 as they were in behind the others.
Xovers are 5hz to 45hz for the 24s, 40 hz to 100hz for the JTRs. In all honestly, I was completely happy with the 21s, i just get bor3d and want to change stuff around sometimes 😁
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post #30 of 33 Old 06-15-2018, 09:38 PM
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I had 8 x 21s, you just couldnt see the other 2 as they were in behind the others.
Xovers are 5hz to 45hz for the 24s, 40 hz to 100hz for the JTRs. In all honestly, I was completely happy with the 21s, i just get bor3d and want to change stuff around sometimes 😁
What crosser and amps were/are you using with the 24's? Are those your design enclosures? Any one tried the Sound Integrity SHS 24's? Input?

Thank you
Mick
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