LTD02-VBSS + mini-marty UM18 + NEW iNuke + a Bulldog named Diesel - Page 4 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 120 Old 09-26-2018, 02:48 PM
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If you look at it from a ratio of $$ perspective. A mic is said $75-100. So on a $1000+ system that is 10% or less and fixing the low-end FR can give you a 50% improvement in sound SQ. That is a pretty small investment for the return.

Of course, my 50% improvement in SQ was just a random # but it can make a fairly substantial improvement getting the low end optimized.
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post #92 of 120 Old 09-26-2018, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
No.
I agree, that makes sense. I was thinking about getting a mic, but that's a decent investment for a home audio setup in my office. Although, since I'd don't see this hobby going away anytime soon for myself, rather only getting bigger, perhaps I should more seriously consider a mic.
Dayton makes a cheap 3.5mm mic that I've been using. It comes with a calibration file as well.
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post #93 of 120 Old 09-27-2018, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmidgitd View Post
Dayton makes a cheap 3.5mm mic that I've been using. It comes with a calibration file as well.



Is that the one that plugs into your cell phone?
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post #94 of 120 Old 09-28-2018, 04:19 AM
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Is that the one that plugs into your cell phone?
Yup. Here's a link. I doubt it's accurate in the lower frequencies, but I was just looking for a relative comparison of subwoofer placements, which this microphone has given me. Granted I picked mine up on sale for around $15. The problem with plugging it into the phone is the inability to use REW. Some people suggest using Audiotool if using an android. I plug mine into my laptop use REW. If you have a traditional hard drive I might be worried that the spinning of the HD would affect the measurement.

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post #95 of 120 Old 10-03-2018, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware of the NU amps having backwards phases. Hopefully that's not an issue with the NX amps. But I'll switch the phase
Just to follow up here - did you ever try messing with the phase? I actually tried my new NU3000D last weekend and at least channel A was properly in phase with everything else. So that’s good news/less confusing. Didn’t try channel B as I have two more MBM enclosures to buikd
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post #96 of 120 Old 10-04-2018, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rukus29 View Post
Just to follow up here - did you ever try messing with the phase? I actually tried my new NU3000D last weekend and at least channel A was properly in phase with everything else. So that’s good news/less confusing. Didn’t try channel B as I have two more MBM enclosures to buikd

Rukus, I did mess around the phase a bit. I didn't notice much difference switching between 0 and 180 going through the UM18. I did notice a sound difference with the PA460s when I switched the phases. At the moment, I have it set to 180 for my PA460s. Although, I'm not sure how to tell which is "correct" ?
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post #97 of 120 Old 10-04-2018, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
Rukus, I did mess around the phase a bit. I didn't notice much difference switching between 0 and 180 going through the UM18. I did notice a sound difference with the PA460s when I switched the phases. At the moment, I have it set to 180 for my PA460s. Although, I'm not sure how to tell which is "correct" ?
I think the only sure fire way to tell is by measuring with mic/rew. I wasn’t able to tell by physically feeling the driver while playing the wav file posted in the inuke6k thread I linked to earlier. The unscientific way would be listening by ear to try and see if volume increases when you add the subs or volume decreases. I don’t know how you would do that and call it conclusive though. It would be odd though that the um18 would be in a different phase than the pa460s unless you tried them on different channels (or you wired one backwards). That said, setting it at 180 (ie reversed phase) seems to be what a lot of people have to do with the older inukes. I had to do it on one channel of my inuke6kdsp. I have only tested one channel of my nx3000d but it seemed fine based on my initial measurements (ie at 0 degrees).
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post #98 of 120 Old 06-04-2019, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick update.... I bought two more PA460s. I’m going to build another set of 31hz-tuned VBSS. I’ll have a quad-PA460 setup for music. I’m going to upgrade to an NX6000D as well. Construction to start soon....
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post #99 of 120 Old 06-04-2019, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Round 2 starting soon....







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post #100 of 120 Old 07-06-2019, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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The Quad-VBSS setup is making more progress this weekend. Definitely need more power for a quad PA460 audio setup!









Should have some MDF dust flying later this weekend too.
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post #101 of 120 Old 07-06-2019, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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In planning ahead, with the nx6000d, what would be my best configuring option for running 4 PA460s, and possibly still running the UM18 in the mini-marty?


I was thinking, wire both sets of the PA460s in parallel for 4ohms, then wire the sets in series for an 8ohm load into one channel on the 6000d? That way 1600w is going between the 4 PA460s? And then run the second channel to the UM18 at 4ohms? Can you do that?



Or is there another option?



Should I just disconnect the UM18 for now and run just the PA460s, 2 in parallel to both channels? I feel like that would be too much power?
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post #102 of 120 Old 07-06-2019, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
I was thinking, wire both sets of the PA460s in parallel for 4ohms, then wire the sets in series for an 8ohm load into one channel on the 6000d? That way 1600w is going between the 4 PA460s? And then run the second channel to the UM18 at 4ohms? Can you do that?
Sure can.

Note that the 6k only produces about 1300wpc @8 ohm so your PA460s will get a little over 300w each, max.

Roughly 2000wpc at 4 ohm on the other channel for the UM18.
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post #103 of 120 Old 07-06-2019, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Sure can.

Note that the 6k only produces about 1300wpc @8 ohm so your PA460s will get a little over 300w each, max.

Roughly 2000wpc at 4 ohm on the other channel for the UM18.

Well, it sounds like my options are either to run it at 8ohms for ~1300w to all four PA460s, or 2000w per pair of PA460s if I take the UM18 out of the picture.
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post #104 of 120 Old 07-06-2019, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
Well, it sounds like my options are either to run it at 8ohms for ~1300w to all four PA460s, or 2000w per pair of PA460s if I take the UM18 out of the picture.
I may have missed it, is this another music only system? If so, then yes, you could take the UM out of the mix and give the PA460s their rated max of 1000w by pairing them up on each channel.

If it's for movies as well, I would leave the UM in the mix. The PA460s are very efficient and will play very loud with ~300w on them. Try it, if you don't like it it's easy enough to re-wire (I think? Not sure what your situation is). I'm currently driving a pair of sealed UM18s off one channel of an nx3k, and a modified VBSS (17Hz tune) on the other. Still have to dial them in but the setup pounds our living room so far, and we're pretty happy with it. We don't listen at reference however, -10 or so max.
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post #105 of 120 Old 07-06-2019, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, this is my strictly audio setup.
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post #106 of 120 Old 07-06-2019, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
Yes, this is my strictly audio setup.
Got it. Depending on the types of music you listen to I would still give it a try with the UM. If you don't listen to anything that digs into the lower 20s then it probably won't benefit your setup in this case.

Playing with different things is one of the great (and potentially very expensive!) things about this hobby
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post #107 of 120 Old 07-10-2019, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Making progress on another pair of 31hz VBSSs:













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post #108 of 120 Old 07-10-2019, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Getting the ports painted and put together.























And a special visit from the building inspector....


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post #109 of 120 Old 07-11-2019, 07:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the braces going. Had to make sure they met Diesel's requirements. He has very strict guidelines for brace design.












Even though they will never be seen, I still opted for a chamfered on the braces.


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post #110 of 120 Old 07-11-2019, 07:41 PM
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Very detailed braces. Please could you post the dimensions of the box and port. Thanks

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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post #111 of 120 Old 07-11-2019, 09:05 PM
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Please could you post more pics of Diesel

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post #112 of 120 Old 07-12-2019, 05:55 AM
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no offense..but Diesel is the real MVP of this build..his attention to detail is unmatched.

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post #113 of 120 Old 07-12-2019, 07:41 PM
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I made some more progress. It's a little more fun building these than the Mini-marty. Between the panels being smaller and easier to work with, and having more experience.


I made some 22" braces to keep the side panels square while the PL3x was clamping and drying





Gluing the port support in



Pre-painting the port







Ports glued in... these pieces are 10.5" long for the 31hz tune version


I'm glad I came across this. I am building a pair of vbss and was having issues with the slot port on the first box I made. This visual is very helpful, and I'll use this method on the second box next week.
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post #114 of 120 Old 07-13-2019, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Very detailed braces. Please could you post the dimensions of the box and port. Thanks

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I got all my info and dimensions from LTD02's post in the official VBSS thread.



Post #798 : https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...thread-27.html







Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarkoff500 View Post
Plea&#1 15;e could you po&#1 15;t more pic&#1 15; of Die&#1 15;el 🙂

Yeah, I've got some more coming soon.








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Originally Posted by chadsmith013 View Post
no offense..but Diesel is the real MVP of this build..his attention to detail is unmatched.

None taken - he's a great supervisor. Definitely my #1 favorite woofer.







Quote:
Originally Posted by kingssoldier08 View Post
I'm glad I came across this. I am building a pair of vbss and was having issues with the slot port on the first box I made. This visual is very helpful, and I'll use this method on the second box next week.

I'm glad it helped. I always paint the port area first since you can't get to it afterwards. And then I install the port rail first. You can nail/screw it from the bottom on the cabinet too. Then install the actual port panel. And then you can nail/screw the port panel to the port rail.
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post #115 of 120 Old 07-13-2019, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I got the baffle traced out and cut out.




I also got the braces installed and foam stapled into the cabinets.









Being a VBSS construction supervisor is exhausting.


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post #116 of 120 Old 07-13-2019, 08:04 AM
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I'm glad it helped. I always paint the port area first since you can't get to it afterwards. And then I install the port rail first. You can nail/screw it from the bottom on the cabinet too. Then install the actual port panel. And then you can nail/screw the port panel to the port rail.
My port goes up the back wall as well for the 20/15hz tuning, and I assembled the port first realizing too late that now I had to somehow clamp it to the bottom AND back of the enclosure. This way will make that MUCH easier. Just do the back and bottom rails like you did yours. I may use screws to speed up the process. Bracing was a bit tricky as well. Hoping the second sub comes together better.
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post #117 of 120 Old 07-13-2019, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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When I did my mini-marty, the port when up the back as well. I installed the bottom port rail first, then the back port rail. I drew centerlines on the outside of the bottom and back panels so I knew where to screw into the panels to catch the port rails. Then install the bottom port panel, secure it, then the back port panel.



As far as bracing, remember that the port and port rails act as braces for the bottom and most of the back of the cabinet as well.



Good luck with your build. Just remember to take your time and think your design/construction through first, before starting to glue/nail/screw.
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post #118 of 120 Old 07-13-2019, 10:48 AM
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When I did my mini-marty, the port when up the back as well. I installed the bottom port rail first, then the back port rail. I drew centerlines on the outside of the bottom and back panels so I knew where to screw into the panels to catch the port rails. Then install the bottom port panel, secure it, then the back port panel.



As far as bracing, remember that the port and port rails act as braces for the bottom and most of the back of the cabinet as well.



Good luck with your build. Just remember to take your time and think your design/construction through first, before starting to glue/nail/screw.
Thanks for the tips. I use a build thread here if you are interested in following along. I'm not as detailed as you with progress pictures and such though.
I do have another question regarding the wiring. Did you get a wiring connector to fit in the back of the speakon connector in the sub? There seems to be very little "how to's" with wiring diy speakon sub connections. At least I can't seem to find it. When you wire these up, you mind postng a picture of the back of the speakon connector in the sub?
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post #119 of 120 Old 07-13-2019, 01:56 PM
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Do I see a woodworking shop in the background? A bulldog and a shop? Unfair.
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post #120 of 120 Old 07-20-2019, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingssoldier08 View Post
Thanks for the tips. I use a build thread here if you are interested in following along. I'm not as detailed as you with progress pictures and such though.
I do have another question regarding the wiring. Did you get a wiring connector to fit in the back of the speakon connector in the sub? There seems to be very little "how to's" with wiring diy speakon sub connections. At least I can't seem to find it. When you wire these up, you mind postng a picture of the back of the speakon connector in the sub?

For the pair I'm building currently, I drilled a 1" hole in the front baffle near the corner and will install a SpeakOn connector. I'll have pictures of it soon.











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Do I see a woodworking shop in the background? A bulldog and a shop? Unfair.

Yes. It has its advantages and disadvantages. It's a great place to get work done and I have plenty of space and lighting. But it's not attached to my house, so I have to drive to it anytime I want to do any work. And when a project is done, I have to pack it up into my truck and transport it home.
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