What do we have here.........An FP20000Q - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 04:54 PM
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To be to code you need the nema 6-15, not the nema TT 30 that you referenced:


Theoretically if the amp is 16a fused, then the 240v 15a breaker should trip before the fuse melts.

A nema 6-20 might cause the fuse to melt before the breaker trips.

and if the amp is truly 240v 30a fused then you need a 6-30 or 10-30.

You can also do the L versions, which is twistlock.
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post #32 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 05:42 PM
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Damn I know ordering a 220-240v appliance and receiving a 120V NEMA 5-15 plug would fill me with indescribable confidence that everything's going to be just dandy It does look like a big gauge cable though.

So apart from the 5kw+ burst what is the sustained output before the magic smoke comes out?
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post #33 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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As it stands right now, the amp does not power up Very frustrated at the moment, so I'm going to walk away from troubleshooting and pick it back up tomorrow.

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post #34 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
As it stands right now, the amp does not power up Very frustrated at the moment, so I'm going to walk away from troubleshooting and pick it back up tomorrow.
please tell me you didn't try to plug it into 120v
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post #35 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
As it stands right now, the amp does not power up Very frustrated at the moment, so I'm going to walk away from troubleshooting and pick it back up tomorrow.
When you flick the switch what happens, nothing?
What socket and voltage did you plug it into so far?

Are you sure your breaker is on, and that there is "actual" voltage at the wallsocket contacts?

Are any of the fuses not 0-ohms? (You have to pull them out of their holders.)

There are fuses on each of the 4 amp boards, the power supply and the rectifier board.

Be careful, wear rubber gloves, the internals of this amp can kill a man...
Also wear safety glasses or a face shield, don't let your probe contacts touch or slip or you'll arc-weld the amp (blinding flash and zillion degree metal flying everywhere.)
After being energized, let the amp sit for a good 30 minutes before opening it.

Imagine this, but worse....
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post #36 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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please tell me you didn't try to plug it into 120v
Nope. I've confirmed there is 120v on each prong of the plug (obviously except ground), yet absolutely nothing happens when I hit the power switch. I haven't checked any components in the amp; will have to wait until tomorrow.

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post #37 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Nope. I've confirmed there is 120v on each prong of the plug (obviously except ground), yet absolutely nothing happens when I hit the power switch. I haven't checked any components in the amp; will have to wait until tomorrow.
Supposed to be 240v from hot to hot.
i.e. split-phase.

If you connected it to 120v x2 from the same leg you may have fried the amp (not sure...)
In any case that would be 0volts from hot to hot, so of course it won't power on!
0 volts = 0 watts.
240 volts = all the watts.

Testing 120V Hot to Neutral or Hot to Ground tells you nothing on a 240V circuit!
It's not just any two 120V hot wires, its two differential 120V hot wires.

How well do you know electricity really? Please say you already knew and fully understood everything I just said.

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post #38 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 08:34 PM
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Thank you for your support of our company!

Hello,Dear Sir,this is Iris from Sinbosen audio.


Thank you for your support!And thank you for your feedback. I will relay your message to our engineers to see if we have a better solution.


If there is any problem during use, you can directly contact the person who sold it to you. We will be responsible for it.


Best wishes!
Sinbosen Audio
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post #39 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 08:37 PM
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Best case the amp is still waiting for 240V to be delivered to power up. Did you replace the 5-15 plug with that 120V 30A travel trailer one? And then rewire the socket for 240V?

Did you rewire like this?

http://www.electrical-online.com/how..._120v_to_240v/
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post #40 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 08:43 PM
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Thumbs up Thank you for your support of our company!

[quote=johnson636;56327096]This FP20000Q is manufactured by XBS a.k.a. Sinbosen a.k.a. AOYUE. My first impression is it's heavy. Initial visual of the build is pretty good. The only questionable sign of poor workmanship is the messy application of heat sink compound on the one transistor in one of the pics. Now I have to switch one of my circuits to 240v and replace the power cord with the appropriate plug.


Hello,Dear Sir,this is Iris from Sinbosen audio.

Thank you for your support!And thank you for your feedback. I will relay your message to our engineers to see if we have a better solution.

If there is any problem during use, you can directly contact the person who sold it to you. We will be responsible for it.

Best wishes!
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post #41 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 09:03 PM
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They've found us! LOL

Another thing you can test (with the amp unplugged and discharged for a while), is the conductivity of each pin on the power cable to the solder point on the board. All three should measure 0-ohms, that will tell you if it's a bad cable job or not.

Beyond that I wouldn't have a clue, I'm not a amplifier maker...
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post #42 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 09:09 PM
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They've found us! LOL

Another thing you can test (with the amp unplugged and discharged for a while), is the conductivity of each pin on the power cable to the solder point on the board. All three should measure 0-ohms, that will tell you if it's a bad cable job or not.

Beyond that I wouldn't have a clue, I'm not a amplifier maker...
Did you request a NEMA 5-15 because thats what your intended 240V outlet is wired as?
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post #43 of 289 Old 06-11-2018, 10:12 PM
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Did you request a NEMA 5-15 because thats what your intended 240V outlet is wired as?
It's a long story, so:
Spoiler!
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post #44 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 05:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, after contracting the "first half of the day flu" I figured out what the problem was, a faulty breaker For the life of me I've never seen a faulty breaker...and it was new I didn't have another double pole 30a breaker to test, so I used two seperate 30 amp breakers(I know, I know) and she fired right up. Gave her a quick run and the 24s were really, really, moving to the point I had to back down in a hurry. The amp didn't clip and had more to give, but I'm not going there. I've never heard a FP14k before, but hands down it's more powerful than my FP10ks

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post #45 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Ok, after contracting the "first half of the day flu" I figured out what the problem was, a faulty breaker For the life of me I've never seen a faulty breaker...and it was new I didn't have another double pole 30a breaker to test, so I used two seperate 30 amp breakers(I know, I know) and she fired right up. Gave her a quick run and the 24s were really, really, moving to the point I had to back down in a hurry. The amp didn't clip and had more to give, but I'm not going there. I've never heard a FP14k before, but hands down it's more powerful than my FP10ks


Nice glad you figured it out


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post #46 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 07:18 AM
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Most Excellent!

Now... videos of the excursion and fan noise and rew sweep, or it didn't happen... hehe!

Not sure about the 20k, but the FP14k is supposed to be more powerful, and my 21's and 24 can take -4db all day long on it. It's possible there is enough power to damage it if you try hard enough.
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post #47 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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When I get home, I'll properly set my gains and take voltage readings and rerun Audyssey. Now I have to figure out how to prevent my canned lights from popping out. I used "old work" lights for this particular room and the little tabs that holds them in secure keep popping out. I swear that never happened with the fp10k.
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post #48 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Ok, after contracting the "first half of the day flu" I figured out what the problem was, a faulty breaker For the life of me I've never seen a faulty breaker...and it was new I didn't have another double pole 30a breaker to test, so I used two seperate 30 amp breakers(I know, I know) and she fired right up. Gave her a quick run and the 24s were really, really, moving to the point I had to back down in a hurry. The amp didn't clip and had more to give, but I'm not going there. I've never heard a FP14k before, but hands down it's more powerful than my FP10ks
Ive had triple pole breakers that fail to manually move from open to closed and vice versa right from the box - SquareD iirc. That was for datacenter work though.

Glad your story had a happy ending

Edited to ask: so you have 10 gauge wire to a nema tt30 outlet and running it as 240v 30a?
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post #49 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Edited to ask: so you have 10 gauge wire to a nema tt30 outlet and running it as 240v 30a?
Yes.
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post #50 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Victim!

Victim!
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Victim!
That's awesome

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post #52 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I've set my channel gains so that at 0db AVR each outputted 121v @40Hz 0db signal. According to the oscilloscope the output looked clean up until 148v...Clip led was lit up.

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post #53 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 08:04 PM
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I've set my channel gains so that each outputed 121v @40Hz 0db signal. According to the oscilloscope the output looked clean up until 148v...Clip led was lit up.
into what kind of load?
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post #54 of 289 Old 06-12-2018, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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into what kind of load?
No load. I don't have any means of a dummy load and no way am I going to have my subs connected while do this

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No load. I don't have any means of a dummy load and no way am I going to have my subs connected while do this
c'mon, wheres your sense of adventure?
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post #56 of 289 Old 06-13-2018, 04:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I think we have a winner!

Guys based on posts I've made in this thread alone, I received the following email:

Quote:
Hi James,
Wish you have a nice day when you read my email. This is Dan from Sinbosen.

We have saw your comments about our FP20000Q on avsforum. We apologize to you for our mistake.

1. For my mistakes: I thought you need standard US plug, so we send 200V-240V amplifier with 30A standard US plug to you. We can provide another US plug (we call it industrial US plug), but I didn't confirm the plug picture to you. Sorry for the inconvenience.
(Please note that your amplifer working voltage is 200-240V, CAN NOT use at 90-130 V. If you want 110V, please contact us to change circuit)

2. For workmanship, it is silica gel on the transistor, which plays an insulating role. You can wipe them if you think it don't look nice. And our wokers will pay attention to workmanship.

3. We can make powerCON connector if you need.

Please contact me if there is any problem. Our enginner will slove it and we will be responsible for it.

Regards
Dan
Could be a keeper guys
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post #57 of 289 Old 06-13-2018, 05:26 AM
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Wow happy to see them communicating on here. Although it may not mean anything still happy to see. Now if I could just get someone to message me back I would be in need for a few amplifiers.
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post #58 of 289 Old 06-13-2018, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow happy to see them communicating on here. Although it may not mean anything still happy to see. Now if I could just get someone to message me back I would be in need for a few amplifiers.
They're sending me a 240v cord so that's a very good start. Also, after seeing how nuts we are around here when it comes to bass, it may give them added incentive to take care of us Also, since I've purchased the FP20k, a number of China manufactures have reached out to me with offerings after seeing this thread.


PS. I've asked XBS if they offer 18" and 24" subwoofers.
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Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 MOFO 15s in 2 dual ported cabs 17Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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post #59 of 289 Old 06-13-2018, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Guys based on posts I've made in this thread alone, I received the following email:



Could be a keeper guys
I guess my only question is clearly they've sent it with a 15A 120V plug, and not 30A as they say. Unless they mean the power cord itself is good for 240V 30A?
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post #60 of 289 Old 06-13-2018, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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They sent the wrong plug; the cable seems ok.
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Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
Video Image: JVC RS500- Sony UBP-800X- Chromecast- 125" wide 16x9 white over black spandex screen
Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 MOFO 15s in 2 dual ported cabs 17Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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