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post #151 of 289 Old 10-23-2018, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Doing math is useless. But I can "try" to take the numbers right off your own measurement thread,
although you never tested the sustained figures for stereo 4-ohm vs bridge 4-ohm on the same model of fp14k (or if you did, you never posted it. i.e. for the 2-ohm stable one obviously.)

You only posted the burst figures, from the older model vs the newer model.
So that's all we have to go off of I guess...



Your posts aren't clear if that's 6kW or 3kW per channel. So again we have to make additional assumptions.



If it's 2x 3kW burst, then 13.1kW burst is more than double per cone.
If it's 2x 6kW burst, then 13.1kW burst is more than double per cone, still...
I'd imagine sustained won't be too much different, as far as making double power at least.

You never mentioned what the sustained power of the 2-ohm stable version was/is.
But based off the old one we could assume it's likely to be 2x [email protected] and 1x [email protected] based on your comments about sustained power of the old version in stereo mode.

You'd probably know more about the precise-figures, after all, you're the one who tested like 4 different variants of the fp14k.

Had you posted the burst and sustained powers for all variants, we wouldn't have to speculate or guess what the sustained power of the 2-ohm stable version is in stereo 4ohm vs 4ohm bridged. So: do tell...

Until then, I will continue to assume bridge-mode is "nearly double (or better...)" than stereo mode.
and additionally that: the bridge-mode of a 14k will "easily out-do" a single mono channel of a 10k, 20k or 14k LOL

I can't see how double the transistors into half the ohms won't produce WAY more power (for the models rated for running in that mode, I might add...)
Your problem is you make assumptions too readily and then go and post them as if they're fact. If you can't easily show the math, something is amiss.

You claimed the FP14k in bridged mode would sustain double what a single channel on the FP10K, 14K, or 20K could output. That's just not accurate. I don't even know why you're posting burst numbers as it's irrelevant, your claim was for "continuous" power.

The FP14K can sustain ~4kw out of a single channel into 4 ohms. The main limitation is the power supply. These amp modules are outputting between 180-190Vp. Going to bridged, your sustained numbers aren't going to vary by more than a fraction of a decibel.

The FP20K can do this as well.

I haven't tested the FP10K, so I can't comment on that, but for 2 out of 3, your statement was false.
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post #152 of 289 Old 10-23-2018, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
Your problem is you make assumptions too readily and then go and post them as if they're fact. If you can't easily show the math, something is amiss.

You claimed the FP14k in bridged mode would sustain double what a single channel on the FP10K, 14K, or 20K could output. That's just not accurate. I don't even know why you're posting burst numbers as it's irrelevant, your claim was for "continuous" power.

The FP14K can sustain ~4kw out of a single channel into 4 ohms. The main limitation is the power supply. These amp modules are outputting between 180-190Vp. Going to bridged, your sustained numbers aren't going to vary by more than a fraction of a decibel.

The FP20K can do this as well.

I haven't tested the FP10K, so I can't comment on that, but for 2 out of 3, your statement was false.
Ah yes, you are correct. I forgot how crippling the power supplies are in these things for continuous figures.
Also, the fuse and breaker wouldn't allow much over 3.6kW for very long without blowing or popping anyways, and then subtract another 5-30% for inefficiencies for the output side.
Even though the 20k and 22k has two power supplies and double the fuse values, that won't help get any additional continuous power to a single cone, only a pair.

My brain was clearly on auto-pilot here.
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post #153 of 289 Old 10-28-2018, 06:13 AM
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Been using my amps for a while now.....
I just realized I have an issue. During a show off session I went to check on the amps, and I’ve got a channel showing clipping when it’s not even showing green lights up to the clip light. The red LED flashes before its own channel, or any of the other channels show close to full power.
It’s not the driver:
I tried several on this channel and other channels, the problem stays with the amp channel
It’s not the input:
I’ve tried several of the other inputs into this and other channels, the problem stays with this channel.
It’s not the dip switches:
Dip switches are set correctly (or at least all channels are the same, so there shouldn’t be any difference on this channel)
So bad amp channel? It must be. Funny I have this problem after I asked is there red LEDs on these amps? Well, yup. I see for myself there is!
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post #154 of 289 Old 10-28-2018, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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What do you have the VPL limiter set to? Have you tried changing the VPL dip switches to a different setting? Does it affect output? 4 ohm load? I understand you may have the limiters set the same for all channels, these are just common troubleshooting questions.


PS Man, you've had some bad luck with amps since switching from the Nukes

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post #155 of 289 Old 10-28-2018, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
What do you have the VPL limiter set to? Have you tried changing the VPL dip switches to a different setting? Does it affect output? 4 ohm load? I understand you may have the limiters set the same for all channels, these are just common troubleshooting questions.


Yes 4 ohm load, the sub connected to the funky channel sounded distorted and crackely, as far as the limiters, I never set them different from factory setting.
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post #156 of 289 Old 10-28-2018, 07:31 AM
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PS Man, you've had some bad luck with amps since switching from the Nukes

Is it me? It must just be me. Lol
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post #157 of 289 Old 10-28-2018, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Is it me? It must just be me. Lol
On the amp with the bad channel, are the same subs connected and receiving the same signal? I ask because according to the LEDs on the bottom amp, all four channels seem to be outputting the same, but the top amp's LEDs seem to show the four channels are not outputting at the same level. Is this on purpose?

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post #158 of 289 Old 10-28-2018, 07:57 AM
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What do we have here.........An FP20000Q

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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
On the amp with the bad channel, are the same subs connected and receiving the same signal? I ask because according to the LEDs on the bottom amp, all four channels seem to be outputting the same, but the top amp's LEDs seem to show the four channels are not outputting at the same level. Is this on purpose?


Yes it’s on purpose. The top two channels of that amp are the nearfields. So they don’t need as much power. But the bottom two channels are the rears. They should be outputting close to the same as the front four subs, which are driven by the bottom amp.
Now as part of this issue, channel C and D should be exactly the same output levels, as the input signal is split from the same source into them. Obviously there’s an issue. I’ve tried different splitters, different sources, and so on. The problem is always there, always on channel C, and even at very low volume levels. The clip LED will light even before any of the green LEDs light up.
Jeremy has reached out to xbs, (he’s the one who bought these) and I’m expecting them to send me a replacement output board for me to swap. I’m very sure that will solve this issue.

Edit:
Sure enough they are sending me a new board. I’ll get it replaced with some pics and post the results.

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post #159 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:05 AM
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Can you try and switch the subs on channel C/D.. If the light follows the switch then its a wiring problem between amp and actual speaker.. If it stays the same then there maybe an internal problem with that one channel..
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post #160 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:07 AM
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Can you try and switch the subs on channel C/D.. If the light follows the switch then its a wiring problem between amp and actual speaker.. If it stays the same then there maybe an internal problem with that one channel..


Yep. Did that. The problem stays with the channel swapping the output and or input. I have a replacement channel C board coming. Pretty happy with the customer service. Let’s hope it fixes the problem!
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post #161 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:08 AM
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Can you try and switch the subs on channel C/D.. If the light follows the switch then its a wiring problem between amp and actual speaker.. If it stays the same then there maybe an internal problem with that one channel..
He did this problem stayed with channel c. Xbs did a great job with standing behind there products and have a new channel c board on the way to him allready

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post #162 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Yep. Did that. The problem stays with the channel swapping the output and or input. I have a replacement channel C board coming. Pretty happy with the customer service. Let’s hope it fixes the problem!
Free of charge?

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post #163 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:09 AM
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Yep. Did that. The problem stays with the channel swapping the output and or input. I have a replacement channel C board coming. Pretty happy with the customer service. Let’s hope it fixes the problem!
Lol you beat me you must have posted seconds before me

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post #164 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:09 AM
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Free of charge?
The board was free shipping 24 bucks so not bad

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post #165 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:09 AM
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Free of charge?


I paid 24 for shipping.
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post #166 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:09 AM
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The board was free shipping 24 bucks so not bad

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Ok ok, now you beat me.
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post #167 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:13 AM - Thread Starter
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The board was free shipping 24 bucks so not bad

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I paid 24 for shipping.
That's just great. I'll take that all day

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Sorry must have missed it.. As a last fluke I would change all the dip switches on channel C. Put them all the way up and then back all the way down again. With the amp turned off of course..
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post #169 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:16 AM
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Sorry must have missed it.. As a last fluke I would change all the dip switches on channel C. Put them all the way up and then back all the way down again. With the amp turned off of course..


I did that too. I ran the amp in almost every configuration
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post #170 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:18 AM
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I did that too. I ran the amp in almost every configuration
Then you have covered all the bases... lol Good luck with the channel swap. Stay far away from caps as you are already know..
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post #171 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:19 AM
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Then you have covered all the bases... lol Good luck with the channel swap. Stay far away from caps as you are already know..


I swapped a board in a 14000 and it was very easy. I’ll be careful
Thanks for the ideas
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post #172 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:36 AM
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My hum/noise is completely solved.
All I did was snip the #1 pin xlr wire and isolated the second amp. The 1st amp is still hooked up as it was. But now they are both dead silent. No noise, hiss, hum at all. I’ll have to actually look at the amp when they startup. I just don’t remember seeing a red led. I’m sure it’s there. Yeah these are very powerful amps. My screen and screen wall panels barely stay in place now during big bass. The screen gets super wavy. Lol. Still trying to find the systems limits and where I like it all tuned. I love the amps though.
I feel bad for not having mentioned this on your thread weeks ago. When I moved to my Yamaha P7000S amps, I had a terrible ground hum. After researching, I had to do the same thing to the XLR cables I was using. After that, they were dead silent. I'm glad you got it figured out!
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post #173 of 289 Old 10-29-2018, 07:37 AM
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I feel bad for not having mentioned this on your thread weeks ago. When I moved to my Yamaha P7000S amps, I had a terrible ground hum. After researching, I had to do the same thing to the XLR cables I was using. After that, they were dead silent. I'm glad you got it figured out!


Ha, I’m glad too! I wish I didn’t have to use the isolation transformers though
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post #174 of 289 Old 10-30-2018, 05:12 PM
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Is it me? It must just be me. Lol
I've seen your excursion videos... it's definitely you!

The good news is that if you double the number of subs and amps, you can reach the same spl as you have now but with only 1/4 of the amp stress per channel, and correspondingly less excursion and heat...
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post #175 of 289 Old 10-31-2018, 03:54 AM
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I've seen your excursion videos... it's definitely you!



The good news is that if you double the number of subs and amps, you can reach the same spl as you have now but with only 1/4 of the amp stress per channel, and correspondingly less excursion and heat...


Sheesh I thought 8 18’s would be enough. I will have the new board tomorrow.
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post #176 of 289 Old 10-31-2018, 06:22 AM
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Sheesh I thought 8 18’s would be enough. I will have the new board tomorrow.
Is anything ever enough?
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Do it 16 hsts

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post #178 of 289 Old 10-31-2018, 03:54 PM
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Sheesh I thought 8 18’s would be enough. I will have the new board tomorrow.
Its a good start

Wasnt there someone that was going with 8 hst up front and 8 in the back and he got the 8 front ones done and said yup thats enough?

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Its a good start

Wasnt there someone that was going with 8 hst up front and 8 in the back and he got the 8 front ones done and said yup thats enough?

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There is someone with 16 but there sealed I believe it was the white oaks theater

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post #180 of 289 Old 10-31-2018, 04:37 PM
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Come on guys. 8 is enough. My house and neighbor situation would have to be different to add.
And I definitely would.
8 is a good start. Never ending
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