Wait... Another Marty Cube build? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 35 Old 06-13-2018, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Wait... Another Marty Cube build?

I finally jumped in and started buying everything to build a couple of Marty Cubes. Any advice is appreciated.

Parts ordered:




Wood rough ripped at Home Depot (I don't trust them enough for final cuts)


Parts and cutlist:








I made this mod to my table saw guard years ago and it really helps with the MDF dust. There is a vacuum hooked up to the bottom as well.



First thing to do is build a cross cut sled to handle these cuts.
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post #2 of 35 Old 06-13-2018, 03:30 PM - Thread Starter
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With everything else I had to do I only got the crosscut sled done.

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post #3 of 35 Old 06-13-2018, 03:34 PM
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I bet having a table saw will make this build a breeze.

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post #4 of 35 Old 06-13-2018, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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If only having nice tools meant I was good at using them.
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post #5 of 35 Old 06-14-2018, 08:46 AM
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Wait... Another Marty Cube build?

You’ll love it! I recently finished my Marty cube with the 18” Dayton 460HO. Check out my thread for some first time build blunders to avoid.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2974674

I noticed you didn’t get the iNuke with DSP.
Do you have a miniDSP or other source to EQ and protect your driver?
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Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast
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post #6 of 35 Old 06-15-2018, 05:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
You’ll love it! I recently finished my Marty cube with the 18” Dayton 460HO. Check out my thread for some first time build blunders to avoid.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2974674

I noticed you didn’t get the iNuke with DSP.
Do you have a miniDSP or other source to EQ and protect your driver?
I like your thread, thanks.

I didn't even realize there was a non-DSP version. I'll have to return it. I wish I had posted sooner.

EDIT: I just looked into them and the 6000DSP looks out of stock. I think I'll continue the build and see if they come up. I know how long I'd like the build to take but how long it actually takes could be much different.
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Last edited by rec head; 06-15-2018 at 05:42 AM.
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post #7 of 35 Old 06-15-2018, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rec head View Post
I like your thread, thanks.



I didn't even realize there was a non-DSP version. I'll have to return it. I wish I had posted sooner.



EDIT: I just looked into them and the 6000DSP looks out of stock. I think I'll continue the build and see if they come up. I know how long I'd like the build to take but how long it actually takes could be much different.

I know they’re refreshing the iNuke line now with a much more palatable black finish, but even that lineup seems to be lacking the 6000 series in the information released so far. There’s an AVS thread on it. I’m sure they didn’t kill off one of their most popular amps.

I thought my Marty cube build would be done in a week or two but stretched out to double that; I finished almost exactly a month after I started but only working a few hours here and there. Half of the extended time was due to correcting build mistakes that required an extra day for cure/dry time and extra trips to Home Depot, and the rest was not anticipating setup/breakdown, cleanup times for tools, etc., and keeping the shared garage in working order to appease my better half.

Enjoy the build!

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast
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post #8 of 35 Old 06-15-2018, 07:45 AM
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If you have a Prime account they are there as well.
Check B&H or Sweetwater, one must have one in stock.
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post #9 of 35 Old 06-15-2018, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
If you have a Prime account they are there as well.
Check B&H or Sweetwater, one must have one in stock.
I checked about 5 or 6 places. Amazon has them being sold by Behringer for $500. Everyone else seems to be back ordered. One place shows them available in 10 days for $400. I'll wait and see what happens as the build gets closer to being finished. Worst case is that I just get a mini-dsp and use the non-dsp 6000 that I just got.

Thanks again for the catch @Sekosche . I wouldn't have noticed until I went to hook everything up.
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post #10 of 35 Old 06-16-2018, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Cuts done.

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post #11 of 35 Old 06-16-2018, 05:54 PM
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So is the Ultimax UM18-22 suitable for use in the martycube?

I thought it had to be the minimary or fullmarty for that speaker driver?

Looking good can't wait to see how it goes
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post #12 of 35 Old 06-16-2018, 09:26 PM
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Wait... Another Marty Cube build?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Toulmin View Post
So is the Ultimax UM18-22 suitable for use in the martycube?



I thought it had to be the minimary or fullmarty for that speaker driver?



Looking good can't wait to see how it goes

It doesn’t have to be in a larger cab, but you are significantly crippling its low end output by keeping it in a small ported cab 4-6 cu ft. The entire Ultimax line seems to crave large vented enclosures 9-15ft^3 or sealed boxes with maximum power. This is why I went with a 460HO in a Marty cube.

Edit: you net 3dB more 20Hz output with the UM18 than the 460HO in a Marty cube with an extra 1,000 watts required to get there. The rest of the output across its bandwidth is about the same between these two subs in a Marty cube.

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast

Last edited by Sekosche; 06-18-2018 at 10:24 AM.
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post #13 of 35 Old 06-18-2018, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I only went with the UM because the 460HO is out of stock.
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post #14 of 35 Old 06-18-2018, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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6 holes cut. The vacuum on the plunge base is a huge help in dust control.



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post #15 of 35 Old 06-24-2018, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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The last bits of construction and sanding. The backs and bottoms will be painted.





Ready for veneering to begin

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post #16 of 35 Old 06-24-2018, 03:48 PM
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The last bits of construction and sanding. The backs and bottoms will be painted.











Ready for veneering to begin




Great pics!

Oh and you’re veneering them, sweet! What veneer/stain you going with? I’ve never done veneer...one day.

That’s plenty of insulation lining the cab, so I wouldn’t worry about adding polyfil. My cube is rock solid and sounds great.

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast
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post #17 of 35 Old 06-28-2018, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Finishing starts today. It's the part I don't like. I'm going to try shellac for the first time we'll see how that goes. It would be great to get them in the TV room by Sunday but that is wishful thinking. I'm going to install the drivers up there just so I don't have to carry the extra weight to the 4th floor.

Veneer cut.


Oak Veneer and ebony stain.
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post #18 of 35 Old 06-28-2018, 04:46 PM
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That looks fantastic. Man, if you had the time, it'd be great if you could drop some pearls of wisdom about how to do the veneer.
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post #19 of 35 Old 06-29-2018, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. Veneer really isn't that hard if you have already built the boxes. Most pros it seems will veneer the MDF first then use them to build the boxes. I'm not good enough so I apply veneer after the build that way joints can be sanded and evened out first so the veneer goes on nicely. I use contact cement which is easy (or should I say fast?). I have used water based contact cement in the past and it bled through the veneer. I don't remember what type of veneer but I use the regular contact cement now. There are lots of videos on how to veneer with contact cement. I highly recommend that you do a small practice piece so that you can learn how when it sticks it really sticks. When you touch contact cement with your finger or a dowel it isn't sticky at all, maybe just a little tacky. But when contact cement touches something else with contact cement on it they stick like crazy. Then if you're doing something much larger like a sub do a bigger practice piece so you get the technique of laying the veneer onto the MDF using dowels to keeps the surfaces separated. A second set of hands might help too but it could also lead to a fight so careful who you ask.

This is my first time using shellac. It is a really easy finish to work with so far.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rec head View Post
Thanks. Veneer really isn't that hard if you have already built the boxes. Most pros it seems will veneer the MDF first then use them to build the boxes. I'm not good enough so I apply veneer after the build that way joints can be sanded and evened out first so the veneer goes on nicely. I use contact cement which is easy (or should I say fast?). I have used water based contact cement in the past and it bled through the veneer. I don't remember what type of veneer but I use the regular contact cement now. There are lots of videos on how to veneer with contact cement. I highly recommend that you do a small practice piece so that you can learn how when it sticks it really sticks. When you touch contact cement with your finger or a dowel it isn't sticky at all, maybe just a little tacky. But when contact cement touches something else with contact cement on it they stick like crazy. Then if you're doing something much larger like a sub do a bigger practice piece so you get the technique of laying the veneer onto the MDF using dowels to keeps the surfaces separated. A second set of hands might help too but it could also lead to a fight so careful who you ask.

This is my first time using shellac. It is a really easy finish to work with so far.
Thank you!

How do you deal with the edges? I assume that the piece that you cement down is over-sized. Then do you just run a flush-trim bit over the edges?
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post #21 of 35 Old 06-29-2018, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, I meant to add that. I do cut the veneer over-sized. They make veneer trimmers but I have never tried that. I have used razors and the router with a flush trim bit. They are both OK. The knife isn't as good against the grain as it is with the grain. With a router I still trim down with a knife or scissors first if there is a lot of veneer hanging over. If you are cutting through the veneer instead of just trimming it the bit will gum up with veneer and contact cement. Setting the depth of the router bit is very important. Maybe my bit is junk but I set it just deep enough to get the veneer and not any of the side panels. I also tape the sides right below where I'm going to cut like if I was painting. That spaces the bit out just a fraction and makes sure you don't get too close. Then clean up the edges with some sandpaper.

Last edited by rec head; 11-01-2018 at 06:50 AM.
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post #22 of 35 Old 06-29-2018, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
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Sorry, I meant to add that. I do cut the veneer over-sized. They make veneer trimmers but I have never tried that. I have used razors and the router with a flush trim bit. The are both OK. The knife isn't as good against the grain as it is with the grain. With a router I still trim down with a knife or scissors first if there is a lot of veneer hanging over. If you are cutting through the veneer instead of just trimming it the bit will gum up with veneer and contact cement. Setting the depth of the router bit is very important. Maybe my bit is junk but I set it just deep enough to get the veneer and not any of the side panels. I also tape the sides right below where I'm going to cut like if I was painting. That spaces the bit out just a fraction and makes sure you don't get too close. Then clean up the edges with some sandpaper.
Thank you very much! I *want* to try veneer but haven't tried it yet. It helps to hear the process from someone who's had success at it.

Great idea on the tape adding just a bit of overhang after the cut. I never would've thought of that.

Cary
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post #23 of 35 Old 06-29-2018, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Youtube is your friend for all woodworking. I watch a bunch of videos before trying something new.
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Aaaaand done. Thanks to the whole AVS community for all the help and inspiration.

The can is there for perspective when I was showing my friends that don't quite understand what an 18" driver is.


You can see my unused wide on the wall. Except my L/R which I built first all my speakers, bookshelves and AV stand are ebony stained oak with an oil finish. I wish I knew about shellac earlier. The room is setup for 9.1.4 but my AVR only does 7.1.4. Except for these subs all the speakers are Selah Audio kits.


As soon as this little guy saw the foam he thought I had made him a house and gave getting into them some serious thought.
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post #25 of 35 Old 07-01-2018, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
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Aaaaand done. Thanks to the whole AVS community for all the help and inspiration.



The can is there for perspective when I was showing my friends that don't quite understand what an 18" driver is.





You can see my unused wide on the wall. Except my L/R which I built first all my speakers, bookshelves and AV stand are ebony stained oak with an oil finish. I wish I knew about shellac earlier. The room is setup for 9.1.4 but my AVR only does 7.1.4. Except for these subs all the speakers are Selah Audio kits.





As soon as this little guy saw the foam he thought I had made him a house and gave getting into them some serious thought.


Outstanding!

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
MA’s: Crowson Tech x2
Processing: Denon X4200, NU6KDSP, 3KDSP
Video: Epson 3700; Screen: Silver Ticket 106" High Contrast
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I spent some time moving them around and the front corners ended up being the best response. One pointed into the room and pointing the other along the front wall towards the other sub. There wasn't a huge difference between pointing the 2nd into the room or along the wall but it was there so I went with it.

Purple is post Audyssey.
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Aaaaand done. Thanks to the whole AVS community for all the help and inspiration.
Awesome work, they look great
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post #29 of 35 Old 07-10-2018, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Toulmin View Post
So is the Ultimax UM18-22 suitable for use in the martycube?



I thought it had to be the minimary or fullmarty for that speaker driver?



Looking good can't wait to see how it goes

It doesn’t have to be in a larger cab, but you are significantly crippling its low end output by keeping it in a small ported cab 4-6 cu ft. The entire Ultimax line seems to crave large vented enclosures 9-15ft^3 or sealed boxes with maximum power. This is why I went with a 460HO in a Marty cube.

Edit: you net 3dB more 20Hz output with the UM18 than the 460HO in a Marty cube with an extra 1,000 watts required to get there. The rest of the output across its bandwidth is about the same between these two subs in a Marty cube.
I’m preparing to build a Marty Cube myself and am only recently learning the basics about drivers/amps/cabinets. I was leaning towards the UM18 as I read it performed better in the lower frequencies, but I’m also reading what you said: that it does better in larger cabinets vs the 460HO. Why is that? Also, is there a downside to using the UM18 for that extra output in the 20hz range (aside from wasted energy?)
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post #30 of 35 Old 07-10-2018, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kangaruse View Post
I’m preparing to build a Marty Cube myself and am only recently learning the basics about drivers/amps/cabinets. I was leaning towards the UM18 as I read it performed better in the lower frequencies, but I’m also reading what you said: that it does better in larger cabinets vs the 460HO. Why is that? Also, is there a downside to using the UM18 for that extra output in the 20hz range (aside from wasted energy?)
I can't answer you with confidence. You should go to the Marty Sub FAQ and ask.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...tysub-faq.html
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