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post #151 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
This is where the 3kdsp would shine, in stereo they can handle 2ohm loads. Take 6 and wire them in whatever order of series/parallel to achieve a 2ohm load.
If you only want to give them around 125w each you could do that. The 3000 only puts out around 700w RMS per channel from the test I have seen. http://data-bass.ipbhost.com/topic/4...#comment-14456

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post #152 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by cloudbuster View Post
I have not I just went by their spec I thought they were accurate as they listed normal and peak watts.
What a bummer.


I just realized the 6000 is almost imposible to find anyway so I might have to look elsewhere or wait for the new one Behringer NX6000D but who know when it comes out and it might have the same specs.

So that would mean to get two 3000?
Is there anything else that can compare at this price point if I cant find them in stock by tomorrow afternoon.

tomorrow I be home finally and I would be able to see how dual boxes fit in the front and report back if I can do 12 driver total.

Thanks.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...ifier-with-dsp

Sweetwater is a very reputable audio website.

Also there’s plenty of other options but they aren’t going to be cheap like the iNUKE’s.

Also I think the next model w/ DSP comes out next month or the month after.

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post #153 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bscool View Post
If you only want to give them around 125w each you could do that. The 3000 only puts out around 700w RMS per channel from the test I have seen. http://data-bass.ipbhost.com/topic/4...#comment-14456
Maybe a few too many beers last night

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post #154 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
Maybe a few too many beers last night
The thing is though going from 600-1200w is only 3db more output. So it depends on how hard someone is pushing things.

If people are running 12+ of these JBLs I wouldn't think they are running them at full tilt, especially in the upper end from around 50hz up. They will be able to hit around 130db. Hence why I recommended a larger enclosure when I saw some people suggest 1cf I would take the extra 3-4 db output down low by going with something closer to 2cf and be able to use less power and gain that output down low that is so hard to get. But that is just my thought process.

Another thing I don't see people talk about is power compression and loss of SPL from trying to put more power into a driver than it can take. I'll link to a post I made a while back. Warning it is a long one if you read all the links I include as some go pretty in depth. I hope it doesn't start a bunch of bickering. It is just my thoughts and interpretations. Which have been known to be wrong more than once

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...l#post54711180

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Bass Myths

1. More power equals more output
Often time you see this belief especially in car audio where customers ask if some particular woofer can take some particular amount of power as if that will lead to some partially high amount of SPL. The truth is that even a small constant amount of power will eventually exceed the cooling ability over a long period of time. There are probably no woofers that can even take 1000 watts RMS for over a week if not even past one day. But most woofers can take that and more over the period of a few seconds or up to a few minutes.

As a woofers reaches its power limits, unless failure occurs, there will become a point where the resistance of the voice coil is rising faster than the power going into the driver. This concept is called power compression and it implies that the more power you put into the driver, the less output you get out. For this reason it is often better to choose a driver with higher sensitivity rather than one that requires more power if all things are otherwise equal.
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post #155 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I ended up ordering the 1.22cf enclosure as it was going to be the easiest to finish almost plug and play.
And I think I would be able to sit two side by side on the front as it look like they are about 13.25 wide x 2 = 26.5 on each side.

You think using 6 drivers = 1,500 RMS per channel would fry it?
Or it would thermal / shutdown.

Would that only be at relative high volume?
I listen between 55-70 volume on the Denon don’t recall what is the conversion to - numbers.
Well 65 is -25 on the Denon 4400.

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post #156 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudbuster View Post
I ended up ordering the 1.22cf enclosure as it was going to be the easiest to finish almost plug and play.
And I think I would be able to sit two side by side on the front as it look like they are about 13.25 wide x 2 = 26.5 on each side.

You think using 6 drivers = 1,500 RMS per channel would fry it?
Or it would thermal / shutdown.

Would that only be at relative high volume?
I listen between 55-70 volume on the Denon don’t recall what is the conversion to - numbers.
Well 65 is -25 on the Denon 4400.
For 6 subs per channel and using the Inuke 6000 you will probably have to go with 3 subs in series and then parallel them to get around a 6 ohm load. That will give you around 175w guesstimate. If you scroll down they show a wiring diagram.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html

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post #157 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bscool View Post
For 6 subs per channel and using the Inuke 6000 you will probably have to go with 3 subs in series and then parallel them to get around a 6 ohm load. That will give you around 175w guesstimate. If you scroll down they show a wiring diagram.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html
175w can’t be to bad right?
That of course if I end up with the extra 4 driver up front.
I think all the figure/graph are with the cs1214 at full 250w I hope 12 driver at around 175.. won’t suck.
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post #158 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bscool View Post
For 6 subs per channel and using the Inuke 6000 you will probably have to go with 3 subs in series and then parallel them to get around a 6 ohm load. That will give you around 175w guesstimate. If you scroll down they show a wiring diagram.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html
Is the last diagram in that link viable on the 6k at 3ohm total bridged for all 12 drivers?

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post #159 of 186 Old 08-12-2018, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
Is the last diagram in that link viable on the 6k at 3ohm total bridged for all 12 drivers?
You could try it and see. A lot of times the actual impedance in use will be higher.

Here is a video where @tuxedocivic explains it and goes more in-depth

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post #160 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
Is the last diagram in that link viable on the 6k at 3ohm total bridged for all 12 drivers?
You can’t bridge a 6K. It is already two bridged 3K in one casing. 4 ohms minimun.

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post #161 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...ifier-with-dsp

Sweetwater is a very reputable audio website.

Also there’s plenty of other options but they aren’t going to be cheap like the iNUKE’s.

Also I think the next model w/ DSP comes out next month or the month after.
They are out of stock, not sure when they be back between 1 to 3 months.
I would have 8 drivers sitting around this Wednesday any other Amp I could use from a place with a generous return policy meanwhile?
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post #162 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 10:40 AM
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My room is 1850cu ft and I beleive yours in around 1500. Honestly unless you are crazy or have very bad placement (shouldnt if you are putting them in corners), 8 should do the trick. But people are crazier then I am on here, or have bigger rooms.

I just cut the baffles for my other 4 sitting here.

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post #163 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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My room is 1850cu ft and I beleive yours in around 1500. Honestly unless you are crazy or have very bad placement (shouldnt if you are putting them in corners), 8 should do the trick. But people are crazier then I am on here, or have bigger rooms.

I just cut the baffles for my other 4 sitting here.
lol well I am planning a head.

I will do the 8 drivers 1st.
My problem is iNUKE 6000DSP is sold out everywhere it seem.

Do you have a build if not post pic and spec here again.
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post #164 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 12:11 PM
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What do you want pictures of? no real build pics as its pretty simple to cut a 16.5x34" baffle, cut out two driver holes, then construction adhesive it and screw it to the front of the 15" box lol. For wireing I put in some binding posts backwards, that way I could wire the inside of the box with the finger tight screws and then use the binding post to parrallel the 2 boxes together right terminal rings. from the amp and the other box of 2. Worked pretty well for a secure tight connection.

I attached some of my basic idea. They did get painted black and tons of screws added. The new ones won't get painted, in their home they will be fine.
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- 6 BA CR6 array center channel, QSC AD-S82 L/R, 4 jbl 8330a surr , 8 jbl 12" subs w/Inuke 6000. JVC rs420, Denon x4000, Sony x800 -

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post #165 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
You can’t bridge a 6K. It is already two bridged 3K in one casing. 4 ohms minimun.
Good catch on the "bridged". I read it as he wanted to run 12 off of each channel and that could work as the actual impedance is usually higher in actual use.
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post #166 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by trilkb View Post
What do you want pictures of? no real build pics as its pretty simple to cut a 16.5x34" baffle, cut out two driver holes, then construction adhesive it and screw it to the front of the 15" box lol. For wireing I put in some binding posts backwards, that way I could wire the inside of the box with the finger tight screws and then use the binding post to parrallel the 2 boxes together right terminal rings. from the amp and the other box of 2. Worked pretty well for a secure tight connection.

I attached some of my basic idea. They did get painted black and tons of screws added. The new ones won't get painted, in their home they will be fine.
o wow that look nice.
Maybe the technique you used for the hole.
Are you going to use them horizontal or vertical?

I would use mine vertically and I dont think I be able to use the binding post.
Did you end up using hardware like Dabateman posted few post back

Kind of make me regret not getting the 15 box. But if I remember correctly I would lose 6db or it was 3.
Sometimes I wake up with energy to take small job, sometimes I just want plug and play.

I am taking out the 12'' boxes from the cardboard as I type this I post pics of them side by side to the 18'

ps: post pics of your project it would not only help me but maybe those silent follower as well :-)
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post #167 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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About 27” wide when side by side.
O wow it look so much cooler. The Chane 2.4 look tiny.






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post #168 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 05:07 PM
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Yeah I just assumed since the 1k & 3k can be bridged the 6k could as well but, that makes sense as to the design.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
You can’t bridge a 6K. It is already two bridged 3K in one casing. 4 ohms minimun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bscool View Post
Good catch on the "bridged". I read it as he wanted to run 12 off of each channel and that could work as the actual impedance is usually higher in actual use.

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post #169 of 186 Old 08-13-2018, 05:58 PM
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You could put the binding posts on the back...it's really a very secure connection that I was surprised I came up with. Its airtight and gets you a nice way to interally wire the box. Mine stand vertically under the left and right speakers. Forgot I flipped my fusions upside down to get the tweeter closer to ear height. I plan to put the remaining 2 boxes spaced evenly between those.

Oh as far as cutting, I have access to a panel saw at work and my father has a nice woodshop. For the holes a router with a circle jig is preferred but since we arent going for pretty here a jig saw works just fine. They do make circle jigs for jig saws too but I can free hand it. Other then that I just predrilled all the screw holes since some were close to the edge and ran a bead of adhesive and screwed it on. For me this was the lazy-I don't want to deal with anything - way out lol.

That four stack with the chane on it looks mean as hell btw! If you wanted you could build a wood frame that covers both boxes and cover it with speaker grill cloth and find a way to secure it to the box for a more finished look. Just a thought
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- 6 BA CR6 array center channel, QSC AD-S82 L/R, 4 jbl 8330a surr , 8 jbl 12" subs w/Inuke 6000. JVC rs420, Denon x4000, Sony x800 -

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post #170 of 186 Old 08-15-2018, 04:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trilkb View Post
You could put the binding posts on the back...it's really a very secure connection that I was surprised I came up with. Its airtight and gets you a nice way to interally wire the box. Mine stand vertically under the left and right speakers. Forgot I flipped my fusions upside down to get the tweeter closer to ear height. I plan to put the remaining 2 boxes spaced evenly between those.

Oh as far as cutting, I have access to a panel saw at work and my father has a nice woodshop. For the holes a router with a circle jig is preferred but since we arent going for pretty here a jig saw works just fine. They do make circle jigs for jig saws too but I can free hand it. Other then that I just predrilled all the screw holes since some were close to the edge and ran a bead of adhesive and screwed it on. For me this was the lazy-I don't want to deal with anything - way out lol.

That four stack with the chane on it looks mean as hell btw! If you wanted you could build a wood frame that covers both boxes and cover it with speaker grill cloth and find a way to secure it to the box for a more finished look. Just a thought
thanks for the pics.


you used the screw type binding post?
So it would be 4 total? two on each chamber driver on the back.
But you mentioned internal wiring.


After I put the boxed side by side I had the same idea of using one big cover to blend them in.
But I would try the 8 drivers 1st and then see if I end up with 12 and with the quad driver on each side like on the photo.
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post #171 of 186 Old 08-15-2018, 05:18 AM
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I used one pair of binding posts on one box and then used what the box came with on the other box.

What you cant see in the picture of the binding posts is I have my amp wires and the wires going to the other box on the same binding post, then on the inside is the internal wireing. When I do my next pair ill take some pics of what I mean. But thats how I parrallel'd the 2 series of drivers in the 2 boxes as well as got inside the first box. It just simplified the wireing process.

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post #172 of 186 Old 08-16-2018, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trilkb View Post
I used one pair of binding posts on one box and then used what the box came with on the other box.

What you cant see in the picture of the binding posts is I have my amp wires and the wires going to the other box on the same binding post, then on the inside is the internal wireing. When I do my next pair ill take some pics of what I mean. But thats how I parrallel'd the 2 series of drivers in the 2 boxes as well as got inside the first box. It just simplified the wireing process.
Yes please add as many pics as you can.

Well still banging my head on the wall I got pretty much everything but the Ampplifier.
Now that I think about it the wall only provide 1800w
So to have headroom for a future upgrade the only choice I see is to get dual Amp and have them on different circuit breakers.

If you run dual Amp do they have to be in bridge mode?
Do each one need to have their own DSP?
If is a non DSP can a single miniDSP work or have to be dual?

It seem there are some iNUKE 3000DSP at full price $280
And the new one non DSP version NX3000 for $280

What you guys recommend so I can have some headroom in case I want to later on add extra 4 drivers.
For now I will do 8 drivers.
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post #173 of 186 Old 08-16-2018, 07:54 PM
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Yes please add as many pics as you can.

Well still banging my head on the wall I got pretty much everything but the Ampplifier.
Now that I think about it the wall only provide 1800w
So to have headroom for a future upgrade the only choice I see is to get dual Amp and have them on different circuit breakers.

If you run dual Amp do they have to be in bridge mode?
Do each one need to have their own DSP?
If is a non DSP can a single miniDSP work or have to be dual?

It seem there are some iNUKE 3000DSP at full price $280
And the new one non DSP version NX3000 for $280

What you guys recommend so I can have some headroom in case I want to later on add extra 4 drivers.
For now I will do 8 drivers.
If you can’t wait until the DSP NX version comes out I’d just order a Crown XLS 2002 or 2502 & a miniDSP HD off Amazon and return them when you order the NX6kdsp.

As far as the EQ, you can get different versions of the miniDSP..I think the biggest one is 10x10. 10 inputs & 10 outputs. Most people just buy the 2x4 HD though. 2 inputs 4 outputs

Also if you were running dual amps I’d put them in bridge.

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
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post #174 of 186 Old 08-17-2018, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
If you can’t wait until the DSP NX version comes out I’d just order a Crown XLS 2002 or 2502 & a miniDSP HD off Amazon and return them when you order the NX6kdsp.

As far as the EQ, you can get different versions of the miniDSP..I think the biggest one is 10x10. 10 inputs & 10 outputs. Most people just buy the 2x4 HD though. 2 inputs 4 outputs

Also if you were running dual amps I’d put them in bridge.
I was thinking on the 6k but now that I realized the outlet would only provide 1800w per breaker.
so would it be better two have two amplified on different breakers?

if I end up with 6 drivers per amplifier it would be 6 ohms would that be of any concern? http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html

I would do the 8 drivers 1st and if I feel there some slacking I could pick up 4 more for the total of 12, but I would like to prevent having to buy the Amplifier down the road.

I was thinking more of a permanent solution instead of buying those for a replacement later,
what you say,
would this work, get a 2 to run each one in bridge mode to get more Watts at 4 ohms, but then if I add 2 more per Amp it would bring the ohms to 6 would they still work

non DSP version
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-...3000-power-amp
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...ower-amplifier

DSP version
https://www.guitarcenter.com/Behring...P-Power-Amp.gc

DSP version
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...ower-amplifier
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post #175 of 186 Old 08-17-2018, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudbuster View Post
I was thinking on the 6k but now that I realized the outlet would only provide 1800w per breaker.
so would it be better two have two amplified on different breakers?

if I end up with 6 drivers per amplifier it would be 6 ohms would that be of any concern? http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html

I would do the 8 drivers 1st and if I feel there some slacking I could pick up 4 more for the total of 12, but I would like to prevent having to buy the Amplifier down the road.

I was thinking more of a permanent solution instead of buying those for a replacement later,
what you say,
would this work, get a 2 to run each one in bridge mode to get more Watts at 4 ohms, but then if I add 2 more per Amp it would bring the ohms to 6 would they still work

non DSP version
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-...3000-power-amp
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...ower-amplifier

DSP version
https://www.guitarcenter.com/Behring...P-Power-Amp.gc

DSP version
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...ower-amplifier
Someone like @BassThatHz or @eng-399 would be of greater help than me when it comes to electric/circuits/breakers/wattage per/etc. & probably the most efficient way to wire them. (8 JBL CS1214 [4ohm] in dual boxes for a total of 4 boxes)

IMO I wouldn’t waste money on the non-DSP version of the NX/iNUKE. If I were purchasing an amp without DSP I’d get a crown XLS..also the XLS doesn’t have DSP, just simple crossovers, etc.

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
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post #176 of 186 Old 08-18-2018, 02:08 PM
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Well you wanted some pics.

Did things a bit smarter this time. Laid both baffles on top of eachother and marked screw holes and drilled both at once. Found #8-3 /4 screws at PE yesterday which worked awesome to mount the drivers. Same binding posts inserted backwards. Used more loctite premium 3x and less screws this time

Just so the information is here...on the inuke6000dsp im running a -6db HS6 @ 20hz and +10db @ 20hz with Q of .25 in the PEQ tab, then DEQ tab has a +10db @ 20hz Q of 1.00.

Attenuators/gain are at one click over 1/2, avr has them set to -4.0....threw in EOT intro and got some serious boom.
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- 6 BA CR6 array center channel, QSC AD-S82 L/R, 4 jbl 8330a surr , 8 jbl 12" subs w/Inuke 6000. JVC rs420, Denon x4000, Sony x800 -
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post #177 of 186 Old 08-20-2018, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
Someone like @BassThatHz or @eng-399 would be of greater help than me when it comes to electric/circuits/breakers/wattage per/etc. & probably the most efficient way to wire them. (8 JBL CS1214 [4ohm] in dual boxes for a total of 4 boxes)

IMO I wouldn’t waste money on the non-DSP version of the NX/iNUKE. If I were purchasing an amp without DSP I’d get a crown XLS..also the XLS doesn’t have DSP, just simple crossovers, etc.
It was my understanding that the XLS have a DSP
Higher DSP capabilities: More control; has band pass filter per channel - so is not like the DSP in the Behringer
https://www.crownaudio.com/en/products/xls-1502

if they do have it, dual 1502 would be about $800
Dual Inukes 3000DSP $560

I later on would ask in the JBL post to see if they can chime on


Quote:
Originally Posted by trilkb View Post
Well you wanted some pics.

Did things a bit smarter this time. Laid both baffles on top of eachother and marked screw holes and drilled both at once. Found #8-3 /4 screws at PE yesterday which worked awesome to mount the drivers. Same binding posts inserted backwards. Used more loctite premium 3x and less screws this time

Just so the information is here...on the inuke6000dsp im running a -6db HS6 @ 20hz and +10db @ 20hz with Q of .25 in the PEQ tab, then DEQ tab has a +10db @ 20hz Q of 1.00.

Attenuators/gain are at one click over 1/2, avr has them set to -4.0....threw in EOT intro and got some serious boom.
pic 3 - that how you connected the 4 driver per channel?

I cant use the premounted binding post as I would have the speaker on top unless I cut a channel on the foam I am using to separate the speaker from the subwoofer box. But now that I think about it the foam should contour to the speaker wire without any issue.

So the only one I wont be able to use is the one at the bottom, if I take it out to re locate then I would have the hole.
So I think if I get this binding post https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...gold--091-1245 I could connect the bottom driver and then use it to connect the top, and then wire the other 2 driver to have 4 .
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post #178 of 186 Old 08-21-2018, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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The project is back on track,

I was able to order a iNUKE 6000DSP should be here in about a week.

Back to the connector would the 2 or 4 pole fit the iNUKE, I read they are not the same shape
Neutrik NL4FX or Neutrik NL2FX
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post #179 of 186 Old 08-21-2018, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudbuster View Post
The project is back on track,

I was able to order a iNUKE 6000DSP should be here in about a week.

Back to the connector would the 2 or 4 pole fit the iNUKE, I read they are not the same shape
Neutrik NL4FX or Neutrik NL2FX

Don't know where you read that, but they are the same shape. Get the 4 pole.

Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

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post #180 of 186 Old 08-21-2018, 08:34 AM
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My understanding is an NL4 socket accepts both NL4 and NL2 whereas an NL2 socket cant accept an NL4 plug.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Don't know where you read that, but they are the same shape. Get the 4 pole.
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