Calling all Canadian Bass Heads!! - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 55 Old 08-12-2018, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=michael hurd;56628704]
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Originally Posted by Gazzer55 View Post
What is the size of your room? I'm building a theater in my new home in the basement and it is not a massive space, 12ft x 24ft, ~7.5ft ceilings. Hopefully I can get some room gain with a single 18 inch however I wont know until I build it. If only someone in the GTA could build ported cabinets for a decent price!
Good call - I found a place not too far away that do custom car boxes, ill send them a note to see if I can get a quote.
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post #32 of 55 Old 08-12-2018, 02:21 PM
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Another option is the Marty box using Home Depot 2’x4’ handy panels if they are available near you. If you did the full size cabinet, you would use 3 panels as is and only need to cross cut the other 3-4 panels.

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post #33 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 06:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I only see the 1/2 inch handy panels on the Canadian Home Depot website, would that work?
I think I have decided ultimately to take on the mission of making my own ported box and I think the mini marty is the way to go unless people tell me that I should go for the full?
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post #34 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazzer55 View Post
I only see the 1/2 inch handy panels on the Canadian Home Depot website, would that work?
I think I have decided ultimately to take on the mission of making my own ported box and I think the mini marty is the way to go unless people tell me that I should go for the full?
Home Depot will have 3/4" 4'x8' and probably 4'x4' sheets of ply or MDF. I have found you can't trust the online wood/lumber stuff in particular. Stick with 3/4".
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post #35 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Is MDF the way to go / easiest to use? I read some people use Baltic birch, not sure if that would add any more headaches to the process???
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post #36 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 05:06 PM
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Calling all Canadian Bass Heads!!

Void free Baltic (which is what people use for speaker cabinets) is a lot harder to find than MDF and usually comes in weird sizes that don’t really jive with the sub plans you’ll find here. Like 5x5 sheets. Most subs here Marty, mini Marty, etc... have been designed for 4x8 sheets. Plus void free BB is much more expensive. But it’s a lot lighter than MDF, stronger and less messy in my opinion. Just depends what’s most important to you. If it’s your first build I’d probably stick with MDF. It’s cheap, easy to find and won’t ruin your day if you mess up a cut
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post #37 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevonDeyholos View Post
Void free Baltic (which is what people use for speaker cabinets) is a lot harder to find than MDF and usually comes in weird sizes that don’t really jive with the sub plans you’ll find here. Like 5x5 sheets. Most subs here Marty, mini Marty, etc... have been designed for 4x8 sheets. Plus void free BB is much more expensive. But it’s a lot lighter than MDF, stronger and less messy in my opinion. Just depends what’s most important to you. If it’s your first build I’d probably stick with MDF. It’s cheap, easy to find and won’t ruin your day if you mess up a cut
Agreed, go with the MDF.

But do note, the dust from cutting/routing/sanding MDF is nasty. Be sure to wear a mask and if possible, cut/route/sand it outside. The dust is very fine and gets everywhere.

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post #38 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 05:16 PM
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Low quality ply will have voids, and in some places they can peel away from each other, so cabinet quality plywood is recommended for best results. Home Depot Canada doesn't carry much of that, if at all, and it's expensive. MDF would make that part simpler. Wouldn't say either way is "easier" for someone with no woodworking skills or tools. You're still going to have your challenges. Keep in mind that Home Depot doesn't make "precision cuts" (as they say) but they do have nice panel saws in house and can make consistent repeatable cuts. Have your cut list on hand with a good plan, as you would want to make all the same length cuts before changing the saw and moving to the next.
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post #39 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazzer55 View Post
Is MDF the way to go / easiest to use? I read some people use Baltic birch, not sure if that would add any more headaches to the process???

MDF is cheap.



Home Depot Canada is now selling Georgia Pacific Ultrastock MDF panels. SDS sheet available here:http://msds.gp.com/msdsinternet/Open...CYDZRIZqf+uQ==

Ask your doctor if DIY is right for you. Side effects of DIY may include anxiety, elevated blood pressure, lightheadedness, rapid heartbeat, skeletal muscle flaccidity, euphoria, psychological dependence, insomnia, confusion, blurred vision, impulsivity, uncontrolled or repeated movements.
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post #40 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 05:25 PM
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I used MDF before and currently using BB ply.I agree with everything said above.

The only reason why I went with BB this time, is because last time I cut the MDF in my garage, it was my first time doing it, and will be the last timed doing it, at least if not anywhere out in the open I had no idea how much sawdust will overlay everything in there, took a year or longer for it to clear off. And from what I know the MDF sawdust is also more toxic, and with the baby in the house, I wanted to maybe choose something less toxic this time around. Also I am building a huge box now, so any savings in weight are welcomed.


Otherwise I'd go MDF any day. It is cheaper, and found it somewhat easier to work with. It also comes in more convenient sizes. The 5x5 BB Ply is not the easiest to plan the cuts with.

And to be honest, even with the ply I find a lot of sawdust being thrown, but I'm doing it outside so maybe I don't notice it as much ? And at least I hope its not as toxic.

Anyway, stick with MDF, just mind the dust.
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post #41 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 06:29 PM
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@Mahuzz bought 8 um 18s and had them shipped to Canada I would shoot him a pm

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post #42 of 55 Old 08-13-2018, 08:00 PM
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I built cabinets out of the cheap fir ply, no problems yet!
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post #43 of 55 Old 08-14-2018, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone - I think I will stick to MDF for the first build.
Quick question - regarding bracing internally, are any of these used to actually support the woofer / magnet or are they only used for the integrity of the box? As far as I understand it the only wood that touched the woofer at all would be for the front baffle. Thanks
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post #44 of 55 Old 08-14-2018, 05:23 AM
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You'd need one helluva magnet to require bracing. Maybe the BHS-24 or the gigantic 32" driver.

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post #45 of 55 Old 08-14-2018, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Any bracing at all of bracing to support the magnet? I see many builds with extensive bracing so figured I atleast need some, maybe two window braces at the minimum.
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post #46 of 55 Old 08-14-2018, 07:20 AM
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No need to support the magnet, the basket does that all on it's own. Bracing on 6-8 inch centers is good, but not necessarily achievable due to large driver frames, magnet, port volume ( if used ), terminal connections, handles. ( if used )

Ask your doctor if DIY is right for you. Side effects of DIY may include anxiety, elevated blood pressure, lightheadedness, rapid heartbeat, skeletal muscle flaccidity, euphoria, psychological dependence, insomnia, confusion, blurred vision, impulsivity, uncontrolled or repeated movements.
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post #47 of 55 Old 08-14-2018, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok thanks Michael - Given the front baffle for the mini marty is doubled up I thought that would be sufficient to hold the subwoofer in place! I see a lot of people flush mount the driver the the inside layer of MDF, so recess it inside the outside layer of MDF. Would it be a stronger cabinet overall if I cut an equal size hole in both front baffles and use longer screws through both layers?
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post #48 of 55 Old 08-14-2018, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazzer55 View Post
Ok thanks Michael - Given the front baffle for the mini marty is doubled up I thought that would be sufficient to hold the subwoofer in place! I see a lot of people flush mount the driver the the inside layer of MDF, so recess it inside the outside layer of MDF. Would it be a stronger cabinet overall if I cut an equal size hole in both front baffles and use longer screws through both layers?

Marginally stronger. How much deflection do you think you will get on that 3/4 inch thick x 20 mm thick ring that would form the driver mounting shelf?



From the webpage, the UM-18-22 cutout is 422 mm, and the outer frame diameter is 462 mm. Even if you gave yourself 2 mm around the outer frame diameter for paint and clearance, that is still only 22 mm of material to deflect, and will be attached to the driver frame with screws.



RE: fasteners... no need to over think. Simple screws that have sufficient length and diameter will work, provided they fit in the recess in the basket. Pre-drill holes to slightly under the root diameter of the screw. Gasket tape is highly recommended for a proper seal.



T-nuts and 10/32" machine screws can be used, but you aren't touring with Metallica, so the cabinet does not have to survive being thrown down a flight of stairs loaded. KISS principle here. If it makes you feel better, you can use a double layer to screw into, though even an 80 pound driver can be held in place with simple screws in a single layer.


If you plan on removing the driver multiple times, a T-nut and a machine screw is a better option. If the holes loosen in the MDF from repeated assembly and disassembly, you can always rotate the basket some and drill new screw holes.

Ask your doctor if DIY is right for you. Side effects of DIY may include anxiety, elevated blood pressure, lightheadedness, rapid heartbeat, skeletal muscle flaccidity, euphoria, psychological dependence, insomnia, confusion, blurred vision, impulsivity, uncontrolled or repeated movements.
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post #49 of 55 Old 08-14-2018, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for clarifying Michael.

Is there anyone who lives in and around Toronto with DIY subs who wouldn't mind giving me a demo?
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post #50 of 55 Old 10-24-2018, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
@Mahuzz bought 8 um 18s and had them shipped to Canada I would shoot him a pm

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Hey just stumbled on this thread AVS name was a little wrong, was missing the 13 at the end

Shoot me a pm and we can talk over the phone if that works. I live just north of Newmarket so we are close. I am build 6 ported boxes 10cu and 2 nearfield 10cu behind my 2 row. Don’t just go with something that is easy go with something you want and will enjoy for years.

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post #51 of 55 Old 10-24-2018, 05:28 PM
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What he said------

My first build was a tapped horn and although harder if you take your time and ask for help when needed you will find that it is not that bad.

Make sure you write down everything you need to do before starting your build which will help with forgetting little details which would/could be harder to implement afterwards.

I have a similar room (10' × 23' x 7') and I am looking to add 4 more subs in the room.

Welcome to the rabbit hole!

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post #52 of 55 Old 10-24-2018, 05:45 PM
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The hardest thing is asking for help and you don’t seem to have any problems doing that so you are all set.

There is a huge following for DIY sub building and that is how I have fell into this rabbit hole.

I started chatting with Mike, everyone knows him @eng-399 , next thing I knew I flew to Chicago to his GTG and no he has inspired me to build my from wall like his. He has designed everyone of my subs boxes and provided me a cut list. His name is all over this form for his skills for diy subs. Not saying he will design yours but there are a lot of guys that will help out for sure.

I just finished building my LCRs (QSC SC 2150s), never built a speaker before and I leaned on fellow avsers and got it done. If you start a thread as you see hear you will get help. I wish my subs were done so you could take a listen for sure.


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post #53 of 55 Old 10-24-2018, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahuzz13 View Post
The hardest thing is asking for help and you don’t seem to have any problems doing that so you are all set.

There is a huge following for DIY sub building and that is how I have fell into this rabbit hole.

I started chatting with Mike, everyone knows him @eng-399 , next thing I knew I flew to Chicago to his GTG and no he has inspired me to build my from wall like his. He has designed everyone of my subs boxes and provided me a cut list. His name is all over this form for his skills for diy subs. Not saying he will design yours but there are a lot of guys that will help out for sure.

I just finished building my LCRs (QSC SC 2150s), never built a speaker before and I leaned on fellow avsers and got it done. If you start a thread as you see hear you will get help. I wish my subs were done so you could take a listen for sure.


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Glad to help if anyone needs help send me a message.
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post #54 of 55 Old 05-21-2020, 11:30 AM
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Looking to build a subwoofer for my theater room - based on the Dayton Ultimax UM18 subwoofer.
I live in Canada (west coast) and haven't been able to find any Canadian companies building flat packs - similar to a Mini Marty ----

The shipping cost from the USA is quite high - anyone know of a good Canadian company that builds / sells sub cabinets?
Or - alternative - where can I purchase a plan - and then perhaps get a local wood working company to do all the cutting?
Thanks
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post #55 of 55 Old 05-21-2020, 02:37 PM
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Or - alternative - where can I purchase a plan - and then perhaps get a local wood working company to do all the cutting?
Thanks
For the Martys? Post 4599 of the MartySub FAQ has the cut lists.

Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

Speaker builds: DIYSG HTM-10 build | DIYSG Volt-6 build | DIYSG Fusion-8 builds
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